[80TA]

I replaced the front springs with 455 moog springs .I currently have a 400 engine but was going to heavier motor in future so figured might as well get the big motor springs.I had a broken spring as well.I have no air in the car but other than that nothing else has been taken out.

I am not sure what kind of shocks I have they seem old as the hills.

I replaced all body bushings with polygraphite stuff from pst and installed ce bolt in subframe connectors.

Problem this ta rides simply awful.Worst riding car think ever been in.I am going to get some shocks soon but people are telling me its the springs that determine the ride and not the shocks.Is this true.??
Its not like the car is bouncy its more like it got no bounce over the bumps at all.The back leafs are likely original..no shackles or anything but they dont' look sagged either.
I was going to install new back leafs soon as well.
Right now I am kinda worried that even after new shocks and back leafs this ta will still ride like a buckboard.I had a 80 formula and 77 ta and 78 ta and pretty sure they rode decent.
Its been several years since had those though.

So looking at three choices..I did build this car for some strip runs but I also do drive it quite a bit although if the ride don't get better than it will be more and more strip only car.
Choice one..throw in some munroe sensatrack springs.They are pretty cheap and could mabye get better springs later on down the road.
One question is since they have no adjustablility will headers bottom out with them.Roads here are very poor..

Choice two..hear good things ridewise on the edlebrock ias..but think these are just gabriel or munro branded for edelbrock..anyone know.And heard these weren't very reliable but think that was mostly the truck shocks..not sure about the car ones.Heard some glowing reviews and some not so glowing ones.

Choice three...buy some qa1 stocker stars..
These are pricey as heck..but fully adjustable and should be great for street or strip and should help keep headers from bottoming out.

Anyone run these expensive shocks..how do you like them on the street.I am sure they work ok at the track.Will these give me a nice ride when not at track..??

Right now can likely only afford front or backs.Which should I get first..which will make more difference for ride.Or is my ride bad from the too strong a front springs and will it need more weight over the front end to improve it so the stronger 455 springs move up and down a bit more..

[80TA]

I replaced the front springs with 455 moog springs .I currently have a 400 engine but was going to heavier motor in future so figured might as well get the big motor springs.I had a broken spring as well.I have no air in the car but other than that nothing else has been taken out.

I am not sure what kind of shocks I have they seem old as the hills.

I replaced all body bushings with polygraphite stuff from pst and installed ce bolt in subframe connectors.

Problem this ta rides simply awful.Worst riding car think ever been in.I am going to get some shocks soon but people are telling me its the springs that determine the ride and not the shocks.Is this true.??
Its not like the car is bouncy its more like it got no bounce over the bumps at all.The back leafs are likely original..no shackles or anything but they dont' look sagged either.
I was going to install new back leafs soon as well.
Right now I am kinda worried that even after new shocks and back leafs this ta will still ride like a buckboard.I had a 80 formula and 77 ta and 78 ta and pretty sure they rode decent.
Its been several years since had those though.

So looking at three choices..I did build this car for some strip runs but I also do drive it quite a bit although if the ride don't get better than it will be more and more strip only car.
Choice one..throw in some munroe sensatrack springs.They are pretty cheap and could mabye get better springs later on down the road.
One question is since they have no adjustablility will headers bottom out with them.Roads here are very poor..

Choice two..hear good things ridewise on the edlebrock ias..but think these are just gabriel or munro branded for edelbrock..anyone know.And heard these weren't very reliable but think that was mostly the truck shocks..not sure about the car ones.Heard some glowing reviews and some not so glowing ones.

Choice three...buy some qa1 stocker stars..
These are pricey as heck..but fully adjustable and should be great for street or strip and should help keep headers from bottoming out.

Anyone run these expensive shocks..how do you like them on the street.I am sure they work ok at the track.Will these give me a nice ride when not at track..??

Right now can likely only afford front or backs.Which should I get first..which will make more difference for ride.Or is my ride bad from the too strong a front springs and will it need more weight over the front end to improve it so the stronger 455 springs move up and down a bit more..

[ChrisTransAm78]

Did you compare the orig front springs with those 455's? If they were thicker etc then yeah you'll need more weight to compress them. If you can't even begin to compress them it will make the car feel like a board. If you lighten up the engine etc with alum heads intake etc then you'll probably be in the same boat with those springs... I'd go get a set of 400 (if they are actually any diff) or do the adjustable ones...pricey yeah but in the end you can custom tailor to whatever motor weight ...blah blah blah....

I am probably looking at the same thing but since I have not driven it yet I went with stock springs for the time begin...Once its on the road I'll probably have to go to some adjustables since I did lighten up the front considerably with alumn parts. And then of course I got some PST rear springs and they seem to make the car rise 2 inches (the fun nvr stops). Be on the phone with them in a minute to discuss that....Good luck with your projecto!

[GoatDr]

There shouldn't be any difference in springs for a 455 or 400. They're the same weight. Air conditioning is a difference. Also spring rates are different as most new designs are variable rate. TA's had several different springs std and WS6. My 88GTA is extremely stiff and rough(WS6) and a 71 TA 455HO was very rough.

[mothermuxer]

My 75 runs hard, too. Replaced all bushings (front & rear) with Poly, new shocks (f/r), new leafs, and subframe connectors. I'm sure connecting the frames takes the flex out of the body, which will definately "tighten" it up. My old 79 ran rough, too.. and I didn't do anything to it. Think it's just inherant to the Screaming Chicken goodness!

[Fox]

My 79 T/A felt like a skateboard. Even very tiny cracks in the road were like canyons. It had some poly bushings and new springs but the car sat perfectly level. I'll bet the thing could have pulled .95 on the pad. It was almost unbearable to drive on roads with gravel or any real imperfections though.

[80TA]

The sensatracs helped the ride out a bit.Pretty firm and a bit smoother and more controlled.Not soft really either.And have less rattles.Good roads seem even nicer and bad roads a bit less annoying.

If had the money would likely have tried the edelbrock shocks and because I do track this car a few times a year still likely eventually get qa1 for it just not a big rush now.And yes any new shocks are likely to be better than 25 year old ones.

[80TA]

After more driving on some of our worst roads have to revise my opinions now think the sensatracs are cheap junk and don't really do much at all to give a good ride.Handling is better any new shock would have helped that and the car is less bouncy again but the old shocks were completely worn out.But on rough roads the sensatracs aren't much use.I will now see if can get money back as sensatrac has 60 day satisfaction guarantee and will buy some edelbrock shocks and see how they work.If they don't help then guess live with crappy ride or sell the darn car and lose a fortune.

[Mr_GTO]

Sounds like you have basic replacement springs. I would change them out for some progressive rate Eiback springs and install either Edelbrock or Bilstein shocks. It will firm up the ride a bit but they are also fairly matched components.

[trigger]

A few critical ingredients to ride quality haven't been brought up:

Tires: any car will ride poorly if the tires are dried out or worn. Sidewall height and pressure is also important.

Sway bar(s) -- Is there a rear bar installed? What diameter front and rear? What's the type and condition of the bushings and end-links? Most importantly, how tight are the bar's clamps tightened down? The bar needs to rotate freely in it's mounts in order to transfer energy without binding up. Is everything properly greased up?

You mentioned that you'd installed poly bushings in the body mounts... anywhere else? If you use poly bushings for control arms or sway bar mounting, they require a shot of lube more frequently than rubber.

Leaf spring bushings are also critical to ride quality. Use the same bushing material for leafs and rear sway bar (if present).

Your shock choice is only a small part of the ride equation, and how a shock behaves depends on the spring it's paired with, vehicle weight, and the weight tranfer characteristics of the suspension on the other end of the car.

The standard Firebird factory setup (soft shocks, soft springs, and no rear sway bar) offers a very soft ride while still offering decent control. At the other end, a WS6 car will have a somewhat bouncy ride no matter what.

Another thing that may be hindering you is the frame connectors. They'll do more harm than good if the car isn't sitting right when they're installed. I'd pull them off, freshen up the tires, suspension, and alignment, then have them welded back in place.

[80TA]

Well lets see..have new front springs..moog part number for 455 car with no air I think.I have no air in my car now its all taken off and other lightening would be the edelbrock intake and exess junk removed from engine compartment.

I am not sure age of back leafs but they arent't sagged at all.

I used polygrpaphite not straight poly.I put it on control arm bushings,body bushings and all sway bar and endlinks.I haven't replaced the leaf spring bushings yet.I have polygraphite for under the leafs and understand my slide a links replace the front leaf spring bushing with solid type I think.was just going to keep rubber at very back of leaf springs as not really worth it to buy a set of poly for that if not going to use the fronts.

The subframe connectors were installed with chassis loaded at shop.They are bolt on ces.

Rims are 15 by 8 draglites and tires are brand new 255/60/15 and 235/60/15 indy firehawks run around 32 psi usually haven't tried to reduce pressure.And those new sensatracs so far but still kicking returning them for edelbrock or qa1 shocks.

I found out some of the annoying ride is due to excess rattling.My windows are bouncing glass guy said my power window motors are worn out.
Also shot is my side glass rubber on the panels and on the door.That lets them rattle a lot too.
And my ttops could use new weatherstrip they bounce and rattle.

The car does handle pretty decently for a 24 year old car.I just kept the stock ws6 sway bars front and rear.They seem ok.

So not sure what to try.Edelbrock shocks or qa1 or just live with it.The ride is better than with my recently removed 25 year old shocks.Guess just spoiled by my newer 99 ta and 96 z28 vert.

[80TA]

Update used the 60 day monroe money back guarantee and got some edelbrock ias shocks.
They seem to ride smoother than the senstracs with less harshness.Haven't had chance to really see how the handling is with them yet.
They look very nice and have lifetime guarantee to original owner.
So if sensatracs are 5/10 for ride then would put edlebrock at 7 or mabye 8/10.Don't think its possible to get better ride on these old second gens.
Handling have to see the sensatracs handled pretty good say 7/10.
And hear neither sensatrac or edelbrock is very good track shock but guess have to see what kind of 60fts can get with my slide a links and
firehawk and then hopefully new et street radials and then decide if can live with the ias or will still move up to qa1s.

[Fox]

Ya I believe you will find out that the IAS shocks aren't particularly good on the track. This is because they don't give so much until the piston (in the shock) reaches a certain velocity. I'm not sure the weight transfer happens fast enough to allow the shocks to loosen so less weight will get transfered to the back. Its just my prediction, I could be wrong.

[80TA]

Well after a bit more driving around guess the ias arent that wonderful either in this 80 ta.
I wonder if I made the ride much harsher by going to polygraphite body bushings instead of rubber and in putting in subframe connectors.

I can easily go back to rubber body bushings and could take off the subframe connectors but guess just live with the fact that on bad roads these cars are rough riding rattle boxes.

If it weren't for the sweet sound the 400 makes when the secondaries open up and the way it destroys back tires I would sell this old pos and just be happy with my two fourth gens and my talon awd turbo.

The real problem is no shock can fix our roads.The damn city has to fix our roads.And since our city is built on clay it heaves and breaks every single spring from the cold and they will never get caught up in a thousand lifetimes.

[80TA]

I lowered my air pressure down an bit today.The tire shop that installed my new firehawks had them at 34 to 36 psi cold.I went down to 30psi cold.Would it be ok to go down to maybe 28 .Buddy said that would wear the fronts out very quick.He said backs at 28 would likely be ok.

There does seem to be a bit of give in ride now.

I also tried a ghetto fix for the rattling doors think the rattle is from them door latch on the strikers.I wrapped the strikers with some electrical tape.Think that helped too.

But best anti rattle/squeak mod in this old thing is my new big kenwood amp so can crank up the tunes.

[mothermuxer]

BTW, what size tire are you running?

My ride was pretty rough (see my old post above), but for some strange reason, after I lowered the front 1 3/4", and took some air out of the rear shocks (had to install airs so the azz end wouldn't be lower than the front) to level it out, it rides SO much better. I'm sure not running 90 psi in the shocks softened it up, and dropping the center of gravity doesn't hurt, either! I'm running 255-60-15's all around, so there's a bit of sidewall cushion. Anyway.....

[80TA]

I have 255/60/15 new firehawk indys back and 235/60/15 firehawk indy front.I am at 30psi like I said in last post.Actually today thought ride was terrible again.Still seems doors are jumping even with tape on the strikers.Is there any adjustment on the latch or do they jump do to the pins and bushings in the hinges being fubar.This car drives me nuts with its rattles and crappy ride.I wish the heck hadn't bought it some days.My 99 and 96 verts and even my 92 talon ride like a mercedes compared to this 80 ta.
The loud kenwood amp was installed today and it does help. I still thought with enough thinking and fixing rattles and stuff I could get this car to be not bad.Should I take out my polygraphite body bushings and go to rubber.
Should I try 28 psi in the tires..?
What would happen if I remove the front and rear sway bars or even maybe just the back.

And why do the doors seem to jump every big bump.I have subframe connectors.Any and all ideas welcome here guys.

[1980 TA]

I am sorry to hear that you are having trouble with your ride quality. It seems that we are running nearly the same combo. I have poly everywhere with CE bolt in subframe connectors, stock WS6 springs front and back and Edelbrock shocks. I have been very impressed with the shocks and have found that adding them made the ride as smooth as my wife's mustang GT and probably smoother than my Crown Vic company car. Do you have you subframe connectors welded to the subframe? I had mine welded at this spot and the difference was night and day difference. A muffler shop had a drive on lift so the car was under full load when they welded them. It took about 30 minutes and $30 bucks. Might be worth a try.

I know are spring rates may be different, but I am also running 17's with 44 psi in the tires. The others may be right that a different tire may make a difference. I was dunning a dunlop off brand and when I switched to goodyears, the ride and NHV all improved. I am sure I will give up some tread life but it was worth it. DOn't give up on it yet, I see no reason you cannot be happy with you 2nd gen as I find mine to be very quite and the ride is very nice and hte handling better than anything I have driven.

[nedorama]

Anyone know how the edelbrock shocks compare with the KYB gas-a-just models? I know they're more expensive, but wondering if worth it for a daily driver that will never see the track. thanks.

[amcmike]

You should try switching the control arms to solid bushings with nylon inserts (global west). With the lower friction, they transfer the force input to rotational better which in turn allows the springs and shocks to dampen more of the input (rather than the control arm bushings themselves).

Your idea to keep the rear leaf spring bushing rubber instead of poly is good also.