[joepiscitella]

Just completed my engine and tranny pull and I am now ready to remove front suspension but I am totally lost here. Can someone please let me know what order to remove the front suspension in. THANKS!

[joepiscitella]

Just completed my engine and tranny pull and I am now ready to remove front suspension but I am totally lost here. Can someone please let me know what order to remove the front suspension in. THANKS!

[joepiscitella]

Well this is the list I found from the forum. Please let me know if this looks good or if there are any other suggestions. I am working on my 70 GTO. Again Thanks.

Recommended tools:
* Ball Joint Fork
* Coil Spring Compressor
* Ball Joint Press
* Bushing Driver Set

2ND GEN FRONT END REBUILD PROCEDURES

1. REMOVE SWAY BAR
1a. Remove links at both ends of sway bar (connecting sway bar to control arm).
1b. Remove mounting brackets from frame.

2. REMOVE TIE ROD ASSEMBLY
2a. Remove cotter pins from inner and outer nuts.
2b. Remove cotter pins from upper and lower ball joints (to facilitate removal later).
2c. Remove tie-rod nuts.
2d. Using ball-joint fork and hammer, remove tie-rod assembly from vehicle.
2e. Keep old tie-rod assembly for measurement comparison later.

3. REMOVE BRAKE CALIPER
3a. Remove two attaching bolts.
3b. Hang caliper from fender using wire hanger.

4. REMOVE SHOCK ABSORBER
4a. Remove upper and lower bolts.
4b. Pull shock absorber through bottom of control arm.

5. PREPARE TO REMOVE COIL SPRING AND SPINDLE
5a. Loosen lower control arm mounting bolts (front and rear), so arm will swing away when spring is about to be removed.
5b. Loosen upper and lower ball joint nuts one turn only.
5c. Strike spindle at the area around ball joints with a large hammer until ball joints loosen.
5d. Remove spindle

6. REMOVE COIL SPRING AND SPINDLE
6a. Push spring compressor through hole in lower control arm.
6b. Engage hook ends of spring compressor as close to the top and bottom ends of spring as possible.
6c. Use ratchet to tighten spring compressor only enough until spring becomes loose in it's confines. Never compress spring more than absolutely necessary to do the job.
6d. Position jack under spring and control arm, and raise control arm 1/4".
6e. Remove upper and lower ball joint nuts.
6f. Lift upper control arm and remove spindle.
6g. Slowly lower lower control arm and remove spring. Make sure neither end of compressed spring ever points toward people or pets.
6h. To facilitate reinstall of spring, should spring inadvertently become unloaded, mark location of compressor fingers on spring, and document measured length of compressed spring.

7. REMOVE CONTROL ARMS
7a. Remove lower control arm by removing front and rear attachment bolts.
7b. Loosen the two upper control arm attaching bolt nuts and remove the shims. Label shims appropriately as front or rear, and whether belonging on driver's or passenger side--this is necessary to ensure proper positioning of upper control arm upon reassembly.
7c. Loosen upper control arm attaching bolt nuts until they reach the end of bolts. With bolt ends protected by the nuts, hammer stud back into mount. Remove nuts.
7d. Remove upper control arm.

8. REMOVE CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS AND BALL JOINTS

While it is certainly possible to remove and install bushings and ball joints yourself, I found it made better sense for me to have a shop do it.

9. SUSPENSION REINSTALL
9a. Clean and grease areas where lower control arm and bolts act as pivot points.
9b. Loosely bolt on lower control arm. Arm should swing freely.
9c. Loosely bolt on upper control arm with shims installed.
9d. Grease ends of compressed spring.
9e. Place compressed spring in lower control arm. End of spring must fit in the slight detent (cavity) built into the lower spring seat.
9f. Raise jack slowly to raise spring into upper seat. Look up into spring from bottom to make sore top of spring is seated correctly. Check bottom of spring end to make sure it is seated in the small cavity of control arm..
9g. Install spindle on lower ball joint and finger tighten nut. Bring upper control arm down to engage spindle, and finger tighten nut. Snug both nuts with a wrench, but do not tighten.
9h. Lower jack and remove spring compressor.
9i. Confirm coil spring is properly installed top and bottom. If not, repeat install procedure.
9j. Torque ball joint nuts to spec, and install cotter pins.
9k. Install shock absorber.
9l. Assemble new tie-rod, using center sleeve to pull tie rod ends in equidistantly. Match new tie-rod to old tie-rod length.
9m. Install Tie-rods. Torque bolts to spec, and install cotter pins.
9n. Install sway bar and links, having first greased inside of sway bar bushings. Torque bolts to spec.
90. With weight of car fully on both front wheels, torque control arm attaching bolts to spec.

10. ALIGNMENT
10a. Have front end professionally aligned.

[aj66gto]

I started with the center link and worked to the outsides. Remove the shocks. You will need a tool (looks like a fork ) to seperate the ball joints and the fittings. I think I used 2 different size forks. It's not a hard job until you get to the control arms and the springs. I turned the castle nut on the ball joints down until there were 2 or 3 threads left. Use a fork to seperate the ball joint by hitting it HARD with a hammer. It will come apart. Then put a jack stand under the control arm and release the pressure of the castle nut. Remove the castle nut and lower the jack. I ran a chain through the center of the spring and locked to the frame. The spring really jumps out at ya. Take your time and be safe with the springs.

This what I can remember about what I did. I'm sure others will have more advice and do a search of past posts and you will find all the info you are looking for. Like you I never did anything like this before and with this boards help it all came apart with some sweat.

I'm getting ready to rebuild the front end now but my work has been keeping me busy.

Good luck,
Anthony

[meanolgoat]

That is not to bad of a list, but I would change a couple of things. One would be to have the spring compressor in place or a Jack under the control arm when you break the Ball joints loose. You do not want that spring to fly out.

Also back the Ball Joint Nuts do give you a 1/4 inch gap or to be flush with the top of the nut and threaded ball joint. You want room for the fork to work in without working against the nuts.

What components are you replacing on the Steering Linkage?

[joepiscitella]

Good questions on the steering. Until the last 3 weeks that I pulled the engine I had very little experience working on a car. SO basically I am jsut reading as much as I can trying to learn how to restore my 70 GTO.

So if you have any suggestions for me I would appreciate it.

Thanks for the help on the suspension!

[joepiscitella]

Just a little update. I removed the entire front suspension and just about completed the removing the steering components. Thanks to the inputs from this forum I am continuing to make great progress on my restore.

[David Jones]

Take the steering linkage off as one unit and keep it that way until you reinstall the new stuff. Great reference for measurements to get it close for driving to the alignment shop.