[jeffmort]

We get a lot of good questuions about what is involved with installing a TKO into a GTO. With that in mind I have compiled this comprehensive guide to help answer most questions that you may have.
I hope you find it useful.

Tremec TKO Installation and Tech Guide for 1964-72 GTOs
By
Classic Chevy 5-Speed

We get a lot of great questions about the specific issues that are involved when installing a Tremec TKO transmission into the 1964-1972 GTOs so we thought we would compile the answers in one place. This list should be pretty complete but there is always something new that comes up.


“1964-72 GTO SPECIFIC” TKO INSTALLTION INFORMATION

TKO Fitment
The TKO transmission is larger than the stock Muncie transmission therefore it is necessary to enlarge or cut your tunnel in order to install a TKO into a GTO. There is nothing that can be done to the transmission itself to allow it to fit without cutting. Fabricating a piece of sheet metal to re-cover the tunnel is not too difficult to do and when your interior is re-installed your car will appear stock. Scroll down on the link below and you will see some before and after pictures of the tunnel modifications that are required:
http://www.classicchevy5speed.com/im...c_Purchase.htm.

With that said, if you have a numbers matching car or for whatever reason, you are not comfortable cutting your tunnel, converting your car to a Tremec TKO 5-speed is not an option for you.

Shifter Location & Center Consoles
The dead center of the stock 4-speed shifter hole in the floorboard of the GTO’s (both ’64-’67 models and ’68-’72 models) happens to be 16.75” back and from where the transmission mounts to the bellhousing. Also, the hole is offset towards the driver’s side by 2” from the centerline of the tunnel.

If you are using a stock center console, the shifter that comes with the TKO will not fit within the console. The solution is to use the McLeod Slik Stix shifter. This shifter is a low profile unit with a 2” offset stub that is designed to fit underneath your console and position the stub in the correct console location. If you do not have a center console, you can easily use the stock Tremec shifter that is included with each new TKO.
Click here to read more about the McLeod shifter and how it is designed: http://www.classicchevy5speed.com/TK..._positions.htm.

Click here to read more about the McLeod shifter and how it is designed: http://www.classicchevy5speed.com/TK..._positions.htm.


Crossmembers
The stock GTO crossmember can be used when installing a TKO into a GTO. Because the TKO transmission is longer than the stock Muncie or automatic transmission found in older cars, it is necessary to slide the stock crossmember back approximately 1 3/4” on the frame rails. This will require drilling a new set of holes on the crossmember mounting rail that protrudes from the car’s main frame rail. Other crossmember modifications may be required for certain years and models. Click here to read an TKO installation write-up by Pontiac Performance Years member Alex Goodsey.

Clutch pedals & linkage for auto to manual swaps:
The TKO transmission can use the stock clutch linkage found in a stock 4-speed car. When you are converting from an automatic to the TKO you will need to purchase a clutch/brake pedal assembly as well as the clutch linkage components. You have two options with regard for pedals and linkage. First, if you would prefer to work with original GM parts, you can get these parts from a GTO salvage yard. Alternatively, you can purchase a reproduction set of pedals and linkage – these parts are readily available in a kit format from the various GTO parts suppliers including Classic Chevy 5-Speed. Buying reproduction parts is definitely convenient and easy. These kits usually cost around $200.


GENERAL TKO INSTALLTION INFORMATION
Hydraulic clutch linkage
Instead of using the stock mechanical linkage, you can use a hydraulic clutch set up with the TKO if you prefer. You can choose to use either a hydraulic master cylinder with a slave cylinder or a hydraulic master cylinder and hydraulic throw out bearing combination. It is critical to make sure to attach the hydraulic master clutch pedal push rod in the correct geometric location on the clutch pedal. A bracket designed to properly install the master cylinder to the firewall will need to be fabricated.

As mentioned above, on the other end of the master cylinder you will install either a hydraulic throw out bearing or a hydraulic slave cylinder. The hydraulic TO bearing installs onto the front of the transmission and takes place of the clutch fork and stock throw bearing. The benefit to the hydraulic TO bearing is that it conveniently sits inside of the bellhousing allowing more room for headers.
The slave cylinder is installed onto the exterior of the scattershield with a mounting bracket that needs to be fabricated and uses the stock clutch fork and stock TO bearing. The benefit to the slave cylinder is that if you need to replace it you will not need to remove the transmission and bellhousing as you would with the hydraulic TO bearing.

Speedometer hook up
The TKO is set up to work with either your stock mechanical speedometer or an aftermarket electric speedometer. When using the stock mechanical speedometer gauge, the solution is to use a custom speedometer cable with an integrated adapter that is designed for use with the TKO. 1964-1968 models use a thread-on fitting at the speedometer gauge while the ’69-’72 models use a pres-on fitting. This set up will also come with the correct speedometer driven gear to match up with your rear gears and rear tire size. If you are using an aftermarket, electrical speedometer gauge such as an Autometer, you will use the electric speedometer pick up located on the passenger side of the transmission case. Simply plug in the correct pigtail adapter and attach the two wires to the correct leads from your electric speedometer gauge. If you are using an electric speedo, make sure to properly plug off the mechanical speedometer adapter hole with the correct plug (Tremec part #30360-1X). Custom speedometer cables and electric speedometer plug in kits are often available form the company that you purchased your transmission.

Driveshaft Length, Slip Yoke, and Ujoint Sizes
The TKO’s output shaft sits about 3/8” within the rubber dust boot that is part of the TKO’s rear seal. Knowing this, you should be able to see approximately 0” to as much as ¾” of the slip yoke shaft showing past the tip of the rubber dust boot. If you can see ¾” of slip yoke showing, this means that you actually have 1 1/8” (3/8” + ¾”= 1 1/8”) of slip yoke that extends past the tip of the output shaft. If the slip yoke is compressing the rubber dust boot, your driveshaft would be too long. If the slip yoke is just touching the tip of the dust boot, your driveshaft length is fine.

The TKO has a 31 spline output shaft and uses a C6 31 spline slip yoke. It is recommended that you use a Spicer brand slip yoke for best fitment.

The most common rear ujoint size found on a GTO is the 3R size.

The proper driveshaft length when installing a TKO transmission into a ’64-’67 GTO with a stock rear end is 56 3/4” from centerline of front ujoint to centerline of rear ujoint. The proper length for a ’68-’72 is 52”. The stock driveshaft diameter for a ’64-‘67 is 3 ½” and for a ’68-’72 is 3”.

Choosing the proper driveshaft for your application
There are several factors that you need to consider when selecting the best driveshaft/slip yoke/ujoint combination – especially if you have a high horsepower motor or if you are using slick tires, nitrous or other power adders (superchargers, blowers, etc.). The following are general guidelines for driveshaft selection:
• Generally speaking, if your car is mostly street driven (occasional street fun and mild strip action), has street tires (not slicks), and is under 500 HP, the stock size driveshaft (3” steel) and stock size rear ujoint (1310) will probably be adequate.
• If you are above 500HP with street tires, you should consider a 3.5” diameter driveshaft and the larger 1330 ujoint and 1330 rear pinion yoke.
• If your motor is producing more than 500HP and you have slicks, or if you are using a blower or nitrous, you should consider a 3.5” or 4” diameter shaft with 1350 ujoints. This will require upgrading to a 1350 pinion yoke to match the larger ujoints.
Some people like to use aluminum driveshafts instead of steel. The aluminum driveshaft costs a bit more money but offers the following benefits: same strength as steel, 30%-40% lighter than steel, and can absorb vibrations better. If weight savings is not an issue a steel driveshaft should be adequate.

When in doubt, check with your driveshaft professional to select the proper combination for your needs.

Driveline & ujoint angles
When installing a non-stock transmission such as a TKO into a classic Pontiac, we occasionally receive questions about driveline & ujoint angles. Some of the questions that come up are: why do I have to worry about angles, aren’t ujoints supposed to solve angle problems? Or: I have a vibration, is it being caused by my driveshaft? The following rules of thumb and the attached link should help you understand ujoints and their limits and help you put your driveline together without problems.

Both the transmission output shaft (which includes the entire crank centerline of the engine) and rear end pinion should both be on the same angle (parallel, or as close as possible). The ujoints should have an EQUAL (within 1*) AND OPPOSITE (to each other) ANGLE of no more than 3.5 degrees. This is a perfect world setting, but we all know that's not always achievable. The closer you can get to these specifications the longer your ujoints will last. The farther from these settings you go, the lifespan of the ujoints is reduced and the possibility of vibration associated with them increases. This does not mean that you will have a vibration that you can feel if you are not right on these specs. The goal should be to get as close as you can. Ujoints MUST have at least a ½ degree angle to operate. A ujoint that is zero angled will not last very long. There are a lot of modified cars on the road with less than desirable ujoint angles and they run with no noticeable vibration but their lifespan will be shortened. Another thing to consider is spring wrap which is a very important thing to consider when diagnosing a vibration problem. There have been a lot of people who have incorrectly diagnosed a driveshaft vibration and have blamed the driveshaft when it isn't the problem at all. When accelerating and decelerating the pinion angle changes. When accelerating the pinion goes up, when decelerating the pinion goes down. This changes the ujoint angle drastically, especially at the rear. If your springs are weak or if you have a lot of horsepower with good traction, this can be a real problem because as the angle increases beyond acceptable limits the vibration gets worse. Try to get your angles as close as you can then worry about stabilizing the rear end if it becomes an issue. Have a look at the link here. It should help you further. Thanks to the Driveline Doctors for this.
http://www.drivetrain.com/driveline_angle_problem.html

One other thing to consider is driveshaft RPM and length. The faster a driveshaft spins and the longer it is there is a greater possibility of the “skipping rope effect” to occur. This is very dangerous as the drive shaft will want to fold in half and we don’t need to talk about why this is not a good thing. Make sure you talk to your supplier about your intentions with your car. The supplier of your drive shaft will work with you to get the correct length and material thickness for your application.


Clutch Fork Alignment & Throw Out Bearing Adjustment
If you are using a stock GM bellhousing you will simply need to use a stock length throw out bearing, stock clutch fork, and stock ball stud. No clutch fork adjustments are required.
If you are using a scattershield you will need to make sure your clutch fork and TO bearing are properly adjusted. Using an adjustable TO bearing and/or an adjustable ball stud will help you achieve the clutch fork angle that is required. Click on this link to see an illustration and detailed instructions: http://www.classicchevy5speed.com/fi...ring_instr.pdf.


Pilot Bearing Removal
Pilot bearing/bushing removal can be accomplished in different ways. Packing grease behind the bearing to press it out is one method but here is a tool we found that makes the job clean and easy. Visit www.springertool.com to purchase this specialty tool. Click here for a picture: http://www.springertool.com/files/3sizes_1.jpg.


Bellhousing Alignment
Before installing your new Tremec TKO transmission, it is important to make sure that your bellhousing or scattershield is properly aligned with the centerline of the crankshaft. The alignment process is called “dial indicating”. If using a stock GM bellhousing or a Lakewood scattershield, dial indicating is necessary before installing your transmission. If you are using a McLeod scattershield and your motor has not been line bored, dial indicating is not necessary as these scattershields are pre-aligned by McLeod from the factory***. A bellhousing that is not centered with the crank can result in poor shifting, clutch engagement problems, worn pilot bearing, as well as accelerated wear on the transmission itself.
*** If you choose to check alignment a McLeod scattershield, do so without the silver register ring installed in the register hole – checking alignment with this ring in place will give you a false reading.

Unfortunately checking the alignment can be a tedious task, especially if the engine is still in the car. To check for proper alignment, you will need a dial indicator, some basic tools, and a bit of patience.

Checking bellhousing alignment
1. Making sure that dowel pins are clean and free from dirt and/or paint, securely mount bellhousing to the engine block, and torque all bellhousing-to-engine bolts to specification. If you are using a scattershield, make sure the block plate is installed. Make sure your stock dowel pins protrude out far enough to let the scatter shield and block plate fit on the flat part of the dowel and not the tapered part. If the scattershield is resting on the tapered part this can cause inaccurate measurements. It may be necessary to tap the stock dowels out far enough to allow this. Moroso makes longer straight dowels for this purpose.

2. Install dial indicator base on the flywheel and adjust plunger to contact the inside edge of the register bore of the bellhousing. If you need to create space for the dial indicator base to sit flat on the flywheel, remove two of the flywheel bolts that are directly across from one another.

3. With the dial indicator mounted correctly, rotate the crank 360* and note the indicator readings. Using an inspection mirror to read the gauge as it rotates is helpful. Mark your readings at the 12:00, 3:00, 6:00, and 9:00 positions. This will give you an indication of which direction you need to move the housing - if necessary. Make sure to double check your readings. The total travel of the needle, divided by two, equals your reading – this reading is the amount of misalignment between the crank centerline and the bellhousing bore. Tremec specifies a maximum misalignment, or “runout” of 0.005". If you have more than .005” runout you will need to correct this by using offset dowel pins. If your reading is 0.005” or less, your bellhousing is within tolerance and you are finished with this process. If you have between 0.005” – 0.040” misalignment, you can correct it by using the correct offset dowel pins (proceed to step #4). If your misalignment is greater than 0.040” you have either measured incorrectly or there is a problem with your bellhousing and it will likely need to be replaced.

Bellhousing alignment procedures
1. To correct misalignment, you will need to use offset dowel pins. We have found an excellent set of offset dowel pins from RobbMc Performance Products (www.robbmcperformance.com). The job is much easier with these dowel pins.

2. Start with the indicator at the 12 o’clock position and turn the engine 360 degrees (one full turn). Mark the locations where the reading is highest and lowest. These readings may cover a large area but will help determine which direction to move the housing to correct misalignment. Now put the indicator in the center of the area of the LOWEST reading and ZERO the indicator (for example, if the lowest reading was between 7 and 9 o’clock you would put the indicator at 8:00. Now rotate the engine until you get the highest plus or positive reading – in this example it should be somewhere near 2:00. If the reading is .014” you would need to move the housing towards 2:00 by .007”. If it were .020” you would move it .010”. After the initial learning curve you will understand how this process works. Remember that all readings are divided by two. This can be a frustrating process. Have some patience and use a notepad to record your measurements, not the face of the bell housing as it will get full of measurements quickly. After your dowel pins are in you can turn them as needed to get the required alignment.
To install offset dowel pins, first remove the stock dowel pins by driving them through from the back with a brass drift or by using gripper pliers – sometimes this can difficult to do, especially with the engine still installed in the car. Another way to remove the dowels is to remove stock dowels with a slide hammer. To do this try using a 1/4"-28 attachment on the slide hammer. Next, drill the dowels and tap them to accept the 1/4"-28 attachment and then use the slide hammer accordingly.
Properly clean engine block dowel pin holes and lightly coat with lubricant.

4. Lubricate dowel pins and install them into engine block. The slot of the dowel pins DOES NOT indicate the direction of maximum offset. You must find the high spot on the dowel with the dial indicator and mark it so the dowels can be installed parallel to one another.

5. Install bellhousing and torque bolts to specification. Re-mount the dial indicator and recheck runout by repeating step #3. Small corrections can be made by loosening the bellhousing bolts and turning the dowels with a screwdriver to bring the bellhousing within limits.


GENERAL INSTALLATION TIPS

Before installing your transmission, make sure that the shifter can be moved into all gears properly and that the transmission can be turned freely by turning the input shaft with your hand. It is possible that the shift forks could have been knocked out of alignment during shipping. This is very rare but important to check and easily correctable.

Plugs, Wires, and Adapters
• The two brass studs on the driver’s side of the transmission case are the leads for the reverse light switch. Your kit includes a convenient plug-in pigtail connector available for an easy connection to your existing reverse light switch wires.
• The wires & plug located at the tailshaft on the driver’s side is the neutral safety switch harness. If you choose to not use a neutral safety feature you can: a) tie off the harness with a zip tie; b) cut the wires at the base of the switch – the switch itself will act as a plug; c) remove the harness and replace it with a brass plug. Alternatively you can make the switch functional by tying it into the starter motor and/or clutch pedal.
• The black sensor/plug on the passenger side is the electric speedometer sensor. If you are using an electric speedometer we have a convenient pig tail connector.
• The rubber plug on the lower, driver’s side of the tailshaft is the mechanical speedometer adapter location. To install your speedometer cable and adapter, remove the rubber plug, insert the adapter, and secure with the ¼”x 20 x 12 coarse thread screw that is provided with your speedometer cable/adapter. Do not overly tighten this bolt. Make sure to apply grease to the inside of the gear where it slips on to the adapter.
If you plan to use the electric speedometer pick-up instead of a speedometer cable, it is important that you properly plug and seal the mechanical speedometer adapter hole. Included in our electric speedometer kit is a plug, bolt and lock washer specifically for this. You can also find this plug at your local Ford dealer (part #F2UZ7H183A).
• There is a rubber, protective “donut” on the output shaft that needs to be removed before you can install your slip yoke. Be careful not to damage the rear seal when removing this piece.


Other Useful Information
• You will notice a part number of 3550 on the outside of your shipping box as well as on the metal ID tag that is bolted to your transmission case. This number identifies that your TKO is from Tremec’s 3550/TKO family of transmissions. You will also notice your specific Tremec TKO500 or TKO600 model # on the metal ID tag. Part #TCET5009 = TKO600 (.64 5th); TCET4618 = TKO600 (.82 5th); TCET4616 = TKO500. Please make sure that this tag identifies the transmission that you ordered.
• You should check all threads on all threaded holes and bolts before you begin your installation.
• When bolting shift handle to shifter stub, torque to 25 ft-lbs and use moderate strength thread lock.
• If you are installing your transmission and engine as a unit, consider removing your transmission crossmember. This should give you a better angle when using your engine hoist. Also, having your car high on jack stands will help to give you a better installation angle.
• If you are converting from an automatic and you need to cut a hole in your tunnel to accommodate the shifter turret, consider using a 4” hole saw for a clean installation.
• For the transmission-to-bellhousing bolts, Tremec recommends tightening these bolts to 60-80 ft-lb. Because it is difficult to tighten a traditional hex head bolt in the upper, right mounting location, using an allen head bolt is a good solution. The bolt size for these mounting locations is: 1 ½” X ½” X 13 (coarse thread).
• The transmission mount-to-transmission case bolts require using 10mm coarse thread bolts.
• Before installing your new transmission it is advisable to test fit the clutch disc on the input shaft of the transmission for smooth operation. This will insure that there will be no problem inserting the input shaft during transmission installation. When installing transmission to bellhousing, if engagement is difficult or you find resistance in the transmission seating all the way in, it may be a clutch alignment or a pilot bushing/bearing problem. DO NOT force the transmission into the bellhousing using the transmission bolts. This can cause damage to the clutch disc or pilot bearing/bushing and may even break the transmission housing. Attach the clutch linkage and depress the clutch pedal slowly while sliding the transmission forward. This will help to align clutch disc with the input shaft and pilot bearing. Next, tighten bolts to 60-80 ft-lbs. If you find that there is resistance within the last ½” or so of installation, it may be that the bronze pilot bushing or steel needle bearing was damaged when it was installed. Use care and the correct tools to install a pilot bushing or bearing. Caution: At NO TIME should the transmission be allowed to hang in the bellhousing without being seated all the way in with at least one bolt in hand tight to ensure it does not slide out. Allowing this to happen can result in serious damage. Have an assistant hold the transmission in place while the clutch pedal is being depressed to correct alignment and properly seat the transmission.
• When using a Pontiac roller pilot bearing, make sure that the “sealed” side of the bearing is facing towards the transmission. Pontiac pilot bearings do not have a “sealed” side and can be installed with either side facing the transmission.


Torque Specifications*
• Flywheel bolts; 7/16" fine (grade 8): 60 - 65 lbs.
• Flywheel bolts; 1/2" fine (grade 8): 70 - 75 lbs
• Pressure plate; 3/8 coarse (grade 8): 35 - 40 lbs.
• Bell housing to engine block; 3/8" coarse (grade 5 or higher): 35 lbs.
• Transmission case to stock GM bellhousing; 1/2" coarse (grade 5 or higher): 65-70 lbs.
• Transmission case to steel scattershield; 1/2" coarse (grade 5 or higher): 70-75 lbs.
*Unless otherwise specified by the fastener or hardware manufacturer.


Break-in and Maintenance
• Caution: There is no oil in your transmission - your transmission is shipped dry. To properly break in your transmission, first fill case with appropriate transmission fluid – approximately 5.28 pints. Fill through filler plug located on the passenger side of the transmission. Use GM Syncromesh part #12345349. In normal use cases a “fill for life” should be adequate. You can buy GM Snycromesh at any Chevrolet dealership. For severe use situations regular fluid changes should be prescribed.

• For break-in purposes, with the car on jack stands, start the car and run through all of the gears for 15 minutes. Be careful not to only shift into reverse while at idle. Drive responsibly for the first 500 miles to allow the transmission and clutch to properly break-in. It is not necessary to drain and refill your transmission after the 500 mile break-in period.

We hope you have found this information useful. Feel free to contact Classic Chevy 5-Speed if you have questions about your project.

Sincerely,
The Classic Chevy 5-Speed Team

Contributing writers:
Jeff Mortenson, Classic Chevy 5-Speed
Jim Goodlad, Classic Chevy 5-Speed
Scott Lindquist, Classic Chevy 5-Speed
Kyle Forster, Tremec Corporation
Jim Averill, Tremec Corporation
Red Roberts, McLeod Industries
Jeff Gilroy, Inland Empire Driveline
Jody Haag, Jody’s Transmissions

DISCLAIMER:
These installation notes are a collection of information gathered from the sources listed above as well as from individuals and professional mechanics who have installed these transmissions into various cars. To the best of Classic Chevy 5-Speed's knowledge, this information is accurate; however it is in no way guaranteed. Further, these notes are provided to help you plan your transmission installation and are to be used as guidelines only. Every car is unique and will represent unique challenges. If your car is not stock, the above guidelines may not apply to your situation. You need to take responsibility for your own installation. When installing your transmission, be sure to follow proper torque & alignment specifications. Also, it is important to follow proper break-in procedures. The contributors to this article are not responsible, in any way, for any damage, financial or otherwise, to you or your vehicle.

[mwritter]

Let me just be the first to say that this is an awesome product and an awesome thread! Thanks Jeff!

As an aside, how about fixing my pic on your Featured Rides page? I'd love to see it up there!

[jeffmort]

Thanks for the compliment. Have you already emailed us yoru picture? Please email it to me and I will happily add it to our website.

[baron_]

Thanks to Jeff and ClassicChevy5Spd for this writeup

I find myself using it quite a bit

[GTOGreg]

Thanks for posting...great info. If my car wasn't a #'s car I would have one in there in a second. Can't bring myself to cut the floors though I know it would bring countless hours of fun and trips to places unknown if i were able to drive on the freeway long distances. I'm turning 3,200 RPM at 65-70 MPH with my 3.55's sitting behind my M-20. It gets loud and tiring with my exhaust.

[Mr_GTO]

Brilliant info Jeff. Bravo!

[jeffmort]

A long delayed thank you!

[72LuxuryLeMansLa.]

This looks easier.

http://www.keislerauto.com/

[baron_]

Harsh.

I see no similar installation guide published by Keisler.

[72LuxuryLeMansLa.]

Originally Posted by baron_

Harsh.

I see no similar installation guide published by Keisler.

I didn't mean they had a guide published, I guess I assumed people would look at they "Kits" they sell.

They provide everything in their kits including a tunnel for you to install. They also have DETAILED Instructions furnished with them.

[72LuxuryLeMansLa.]

Originally Posted by 72LuxuryLeMansLa.

I didn't mean they had a guide published, I guess I assumed people would look at they "Kits" they sell.

They provide everything in their kits including a tunnel for you to install. They also have DETAILED Instructions furnished with them.

from Kiesler Engineering website;


1968-1972 Chevelle/GTO 5-Speed PerfectFit™ Kit-TKO-600(.64)-Auto

Ordering

To ensure order accuracy, please call us to order or use our Request A Quote form to get a price quote within 24 hours.

ORDER BY PHONE:

1-865-609-8187

REQUEST A QUOTE

* Kit Components
* Overview-Ordering
* Speed Analyzer
* Testimonials

Kit Components

A truly complete conversion from automatic, combining the Keisler PerfectFitTM transmission system with all of the correct matched accessory parts that have been carefully selected and tested by Keisler for guaranteed quality and performance.


Drivetrain component selection and installation instruction and support is critical to get the job done right. Rest assured, buying from Keisler - the leader in manual transmission systems - is the first step in the best driving improvement you will make to your Chevelle, El Camino, GTO, or other GM A-Body.



1. TRANSMISSION - NEW TREMEC TKO-600 (600 HP/600 FT-LB), customized by Keisler to fit your 1968 - 1972 GM A-Body. A number of custom features are included (with no hidden charges) that you won't find anywhere else, including:

* Shifter location custom designed for your 1968-1972 GM A-Body.
* With the Keisler-modified top cover and tail housing, MINIMAL or NO CUTTING of the tunnel is required (after installation of the factory 4-speed tunnel hump). A KEISLER EXCLUSIVE FEATURE!
* Works with your original carpet and console.
* Custom short-throw internal shifter mechanism designed to provide better-than-stock shifting.
* Muncie / Borg-Warner GM bolt pattern and input shaft configuration for direct bolt-in installation.
* Gear Ratios: 2.87 1st, 1.89 2nd, 1.28 3rd, 1.00 4th, .64 5th; 2.56 reverse.
* Low RPM Cruising - 36% drop in engine RPM in 5th gear (check out our Speed Analyzer).
* Precision Assembled, TRIPLE Quality Checked - assembled at Keisler by our trained technicians; 100% inspected for function, leak and visual appearance (check us out).
* Nation-Wide Parts & Service - Parts in-stock; service in-house.

2. PILOT BEARING - Needle Roller Bearing for long life and high capacity.

3. ISOLATOR - Heavy-duty rubber isolator. Polyurethane upgrade available.


4. BACK-UP LIGHT WIRING HARNESS - Easy coupling to factory wiring.


5. NEUTRAL SAFETY START SWITCH - Can be wired into starter circuit if desired.


6. SPEEDOMETER CABLE & DRIVEN GEAR - Mechanical speedometer cable and correct driven gear PLUS integrated 2-wire electronic output included. Optional electronic wiring harness also available (for use with electronic speedometers or EFI).


7. DRIVESHAFT - Lightweight high strength steel, automatic welded and computer dynamic balanced with premium solid sealed U-joints, painted satin black, certified and serialized. Built in-house on Hines driveshaft manufacturing cell for the ultimate in quality and craftsmanship!


8. SLIP YOKE - Heavy duty Spicer slip yoke.



9. FACTORY 4-SPEED TUNNEL HUMP - Must be installed for proper fitment of the Keisler 5-speed.



10. TUNNEL TEMPLATE AND SHEETMETAL - Marking template shows you exactly where to cut your tunnel if needed, and replacement sheetmetal pre-cut to the correct size and shape is provided.


11. INSTALLATION HARDWARE KIT - High strength Grade 5 and 8 fasteners, properly sorted, bagged and labeled for easy reference.



12. BELLHOUSING - Keisler designed & manufactured reproduction of the 11 inch '621' bellhousing. Made in USA of high strength cast aluminum-titanium construction, 50% thicker wall construction than factory, CNC machined; available for all Chevy V8s and GM LS engines.


13. BELLHOUSING INSPECTION COVER - stamped steel, black powder paint; genuine GM.


14. FLYWHEEL - Billet steel flywheel, computer balanced.


15. FLYWHEEL BOLTS - Grade 8+ specialty flywheel bolts; with locking washers.


16. CLUTCH KIT - Modern pedal effort diaphragm Performance Clutch Kit incl: computer balanced pressure plate, premium sprung hub Clutch Disk (with latest technology environment friendly friction material), sealed release bearing, lube pack.


17. CLUTCH BOLTS - Grade 8+ specialty clutch bolts.


18. PEDAL KIT - New reproduction pedal assembly with rubber pads.


19. MECHANICAL CLUTCH ACTUATOR LINKAGE KIT (Original Type) - clutch pedal pushrod, z-bar, return linkage, springs, clips, pivot ball (if required), frame bracket for pivot ball.


19(opt). OPTIONAL HYDRAULIC CLUTCH ACTUATOR KIT (Modern Type, Recommended) - OEM reliability, high quality exclusive Keisler design; easier pedal effort than mechanical type; installs much easier than mechanical actuator, with no linkage required; includes: 1) quick release master cylinder with ball joint and adjustable push rod, 2) single stainless steel line-set with bleeder fitting, 3) high tech OE grade concentric self-centering double-sealed hydraulic release bearing (rated at 7000 RPM), 4) bellhousing dust cover & line bracket, 5) remote clutch reservoir with fluid baffle, molded cap, 6) DOT approved low pressure line, and 7) installation instructions.


20. SHIFTER HANDLE - Authentic looking, tapered round shank chrome handle, designed & manufactured by Keisler Engineering, features "TKO" with Keisler logo; or aftermarket Hurst handle also available.



21. KNOB - Classic white or black knob with shift pattern embossed; optional knobs: Keisler 3D in white or black, or polished aluminum Tremec.



22. SHIFTER BOOT & TRIM RING - Authentic look; quality rubber accordion type boot & stamped trim ring.


23. CONSOLE SHIFT PATTERN PLATE - OEM quality 5-speed shift pattern plate for 1968-1969 Camaro console. Brushed silvertone aluminum with raised lettering, just like the original plate.


24. INSTALLATION MANUAL - Highly illustrated step-by-step instruction manual.


25. 6 MONTH WARRANTY - 2 years to activate (in case you are restoring a car)! Extended warranty available at extra cost. Best Customer Support in the Industry.


100% Customer Satisfaction Guaranteed

* The best Customer and Tech Support in the industry
* Lifetime Tech Support from our premier experienced staff

[baron_]

for the record...classic chevy has the same 'kit' at as well and similar detailed instructions
Everything you need to install one...

And one could argue that making their directions for install, public...was a huge benefit for the hobby.
I've used their measurements on making my own kit a few times, when I found a used TKO. I appreciate that....
I haven't seen Kiesler taking an interest in GTO's in particular, or giving this information without buying one of their kits. For example, the driveshaft length is slightly longer/shorter compared to a chevelle. I'm sure they have that information, but it's amazing that Classic Chevy doesn't hide the apple..and will simply tell you, if you ask




1. Transmission. All new Tremec TKO-500 or TKO-600 transmission. Includes billet aluminum Tremec shifter.
2. Transmission mount. Energy Suspension polyurethane transmission mount for long life and durability.
3. Speedometer cable/adapter. Custom mechanical speedometer cable with integrated adapter and gear. Electric speedometer kits are also available.
4. Driveshaft. Steel driveshaft complete with premium Spicer u-joints and Spicer C6 slip yoke, custom built for your car. All driveshafts are balanced using state-of-the-art equipment. 500 H.P. rating with street tires. For higher horsepower applications aluminum driveshafts are available for an additional charge.
5. Pilot bearing. Needle roller pilot bearing.
6. Titanium-Aluminum alloy bellhousing. Reproduction of GM "621" stock bellhousing. Features Titanium-Aluminum alloy construction, precision built to within .005" run-out. Includes GM ball stud, inspection cover, and all hardware. Aluminum bellhousing not avaialble for Pontiac, Oldsmobile & Buick (must use scattershield or stock bellhousing).
7. Clutch kit. Modern pedal effort, heavy duty clutch kit (425 HP). Complete with disc, diaphragm pressure plate, throw out bearing, clutch alignment tool, and hardware.
8. Clutch fork. GM clutch fork for your specific application.
9. Flywheel. Nodular iron flywheel includes flywheel bolt kit. Not avaialble for Pontiac, Oldsmobile & Buick (must use billet flywheel).
10. Shift knob. Hurst Classic 5-speed shift knob - available in black or white.
11. Shift stick. Hurst chrome shifter handle.
12. Reverse light switch connector. Convenient pigtail connector.
13. Tunnel patch. Pre-formed tunnel patch. Includes cutting template.
14. Hardware Kit. Complete specialty hardware kit for a hassle free installation.
15. Installation Instructions/Information. Step-by-step instructions to answer your most detailed questions and help you with your installation.
16. Optional Hurst offset shifter. High performance Hurst Blackjack offset shifter built with 4340 heat treated billet steel & 6061, T-6 aircraft quality billet aluminum, and a Delron pivot ball, this direct bolt-on replacement shifter acheives perfect shift stick positioning within your stock console and requires no modifications to your tunnel, console or to the transmission. If your goal is a "no cut, no modification" installation, this shifter is for you. Go with the best - go with Hurst!
Exclusively available from Classic Motorsports Group. Add $295
17. Customer Support. Unlimited phone support for all technical and installation related questions.
18. Extended warranty. Free one year extended warranty from Classic Motorsports Group on all kit components. Some restrictions apply.

[72LuxuryLeMansLa.]

Originally Posted by baron_

for the record...classic chevy has the same 'kit' at as well and similar detailed instructions
Everything you need to install one...

And one could argue that making their directions for install, public...was a huge benefit for the hobby.
I've used their measurements on making my own kit a few times, when I found a used TKO. I appreciate that....
I haven't seen Kiesler taking an interest in GTO's in particular, or giving this information without buying one of their kits. For example, the driveshaft length is slightly longer/shorter compared to a chevelle. I'm sure they have that information, but it's amazing that Classic Chevy doesn't hide the apple..and will simply tell you, if you ask




1. Transmission. All new Tremec TKO-500 or TKO-600 transmission. Includes billet aluminum Tremec shifter.
2. Transmission mount. Energy Suspension polyurethane transmission mount for long life and durability.
3. Speedometer cable/adapter. Custom mechanical speedometer cable with integrated adapter and gear. Electric speedometer kits are also available.
4. Driveshaft. Steel driveshaft complete with premium Spicer u-joints and Spicer C6 slip yoke, custom built for your car. All driveshafts are balanced using state-of-the-art equipment. 500 H.P. rating with street tires. For higher horsepower applications aluminum driveshafts are available for an additional charge.
5. Pilot bearing. Needle roller pilot bearing.
6. Titanium-Aluminum alloy bellhousing. Reproduction of GM "621" stock bellhousing. Features Titanium-Aluminum alloy construction, precision built to within .005" run-out. Includes GM ball stud, inspection cover, and all hardware. Aluminum bellhousing not avaialble for Pontiac, Oldsmobile & Buick (must use scattershield or stock bellhousing).
7. Clutch kit. Modern pedal effort, heavy duty clutch kit (425 HP). Complete with disc, diaphragm pressure plate, throw out bearing, clutch alignment tool, and hardware.
8. Clutch fork. GM clutch fork for your specific application.
9. Flywheel. Nodular iron flywheel includes flywheel bolt kit. Not avaialble for Pontiac, Oldsmobile & Buick (must use billet flywheel).
10. Shift knob. Hurst Classic 5-speed shift knob - available in black or white.
11. Shift stick. Hurst chrome shifter handle.
12. Reverse light switch connector. Convenient pigtail connector.
13. Tunnel patch. Pre-formed tunnel patch. Includes cutting template.
14. Hardware Kit. Complete specialty hardware kit for a hassle free installation.
15. Installation Instructions/Information. Step-by-step instructions to answer your most detailed questions and help you with your installation.
16. Optional Hurst offset shifter. High performance Hurst Blackjack offset shifter built with 4340 heat treated billet steel & 6061, T-6 aircraft quality billet aluminum, and a Delron pivot ball, this direct bolt-on replacement shifter acheives perfect shift stick positioning within your stock console and requires no modifications to your tunnel, console or to the transmission. If your goal is a "no cut, no modification" installation, this shifter is for you. Go with the best - go with Hurst!
Exclusively available from Classic Motorsports Group. Add $295
17. Customer Support. Unlimited phone support for all technical and installation related questions.
18. Extended warranty. Free one year extended warranty from Classic Motorsports Group on all kit components. Some restrictions apply.

ok, I was just providing info on another company that offers these kits.

I dont represent Keisler in any way, shape or form.

I thought the purpose of these forums was to share information.

I'm sorry if their lack of GTO worship has offended you.

Now I'm sure right about now you are a little uncomfortable; so step away from the keyboard for a second and pull your panties out of a bunch; then have a nice day.

[baron_]

My panties are not in a bunch.
It's pleasant that you're acting like a 5 year old and making this personal.
I could do that too. It's easy.


I merely commented that it seems harsh to post in a well respected vendor's thread, who is helping the hobby....and doing so with false information (that they are easier and/or don't offer a complete kit)
Correct: these forums are about disseminating information. Useful information...not wrong information (which is a chief danger of the internet)
If you'd like to push Keisler, and I'm fine with that...make another thread.
That's proper etiquette. You're out of line in a number of respects with all this.

[72LuxuryLeMansLa.]

Originally Posted by baron_

My panties are not in a bunch.
It's pleasant that you're acting like a 5 year old and making this personal.
I could do that too. It's easy.


I merely commented that it seems harsh to post in a well respected vendor's thread, who is helping the hobby....and doing so with false information (that they are easier and/or don't offer a complete kit)
Correct: these forums are about disseminating information. Useful information...not wrong information (which is a chief danger of the internet)
If you'd like to push Keisler, and I'm fine with that...make another thread.
That's proper etiquette. You're out of line in a number of respects with all this.

[cdrookie]

back on the subject...

anyone have pics of how they cut their tunnel? i'm attemting to put one in my 75 lemans and would like to do it right the first time... for a change

[mwritter]

CDRookie - I have pics but they might not help as my tunnel was already butchered from an earlier auto-4sp conversion. If I'd had a clean slate, I'd carefully cut the tunnel, add 1" of metal all around and reinstall. If done right, it would be hard to tell from factory.

[cdrookie]

so you would cut the whole tunnel off from where it radius' into the floorboards? or cut it just below where the top of the tranny hits it?

[baron_]

i usually just throw it in the engine and install it, with the transmission hanging down a bit

probably puts a bit of a strain on the motor mounts, but I always keep a jack under the end of the transmission to not hurt them too much

It'll be an inch or two low...and start cutting the tunnel for perfect fit and jack up on the jack as allowed


If your car is anything like the installation on a '67 GTO....you'll have to cut the whole tunnel, a big rectangle
It's too high to just cut a few of the top points - it'll stick a good inch or so above in some spots

[cdrookie]

ok, thanks guys!