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  #1  
Old 12-23-2007, 12:03 PM
GTOLIB GTOLIB is offline
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Default chainsaw chain question

Question about chains ,,how often do they need to be sharpened ,, seems like the one I have lasts ,,1/2 or one tree (so to speak) ,that is the pos that came with it .
Tryed a chain from a local dealer ,lasted longer and cut better but still can't even get through a cord of wood .

Seem to spend more time sharping the chain then cutting wood
and it's small stuff not no 8in loggs
1 in ,3 in 4 at the most .,using a Homelight 16in 33cc saw
using plenty of bar oil too
Anyone know of a good chain ,or brand .

thanks



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  #2  
Old 12-23-2007, 03:52 PM
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What size chain is on it? is it a 1/4 or 3/8" 1/4's are for trimming and a 3/8" is a whole nother ballgame. if yours is only lasting that long its either the little one or its getting stuck in the dirt. Last tree I did was this summer it was an elm . over 4' trunk. the 1/4 didint even make 1/4 the way through trimming and I was back to the 20" for it all to finish it. still sharp at the end. if its a 1/4 it probbably doing what it can.

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  #3  
Old 12-23-2007, 04:13 PM
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I heat my whole house, all winter, with firewood. So I cut a lot. Getting your saw in the dirt will make the chain dull very quick. I have two 18" Sthil's & a 36" for the big stuff. If I keep the saw Out of the dirt I can cut all day on one sharpening.

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Old 12-23-2007, 04:55 PM
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LawnJockey LawnJockey is offline
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Default Stihl

Quote:
Originally Posted by old goat racer
I heat my whole house, all winter, with firewood. So I cut a lot. Getting your saw in the dirt will make the chain dull very quick. I have two 18" Sthil's & a 36" for the big stuff. If I keep the saw Out of the dirt I can cut all day on one sharpening.
Best saw made

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Old 12-23-2007, 05:26 PM
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Google up a place called "Baileys" I believe. They have a lot of chainsaw stuff along with all kinds of tools dealing with tree climbing and log home construction.

P.S. Do yourself a favor and buy a real chainsaw. It would not be a Stihl if it was mine but that is another argument.....

Larry

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Old 12-23-2007, 11:18 PM
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thanks for the info
yeah I agree on the stihl ,,I bought this pos out urgancy when a tree in my yard was hit by lightning ,thought this would get the job done .,the chain is 1/4 in , weak
now I have other trees drop and a lot of firewood so it sees more use ,
I should step up the 18in stihl ,,,thanks

Baileys web site is down .

anyone want to buy a chain saw...


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Old 12-24-2007, 12:15 AM
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My buddy heats his whole house all winter also.
I heat my garage when i'm out there. Usually 5 nights a week.
Dirt is a no-no for sure.
Make sure you fill oil before fuel every time.
We like both Husky and Stihl.
He has one of each. 16 and 14 respeckfully.
Both cut 5 cords of oak this season before going dull.
Not truck loads, but full cords. He has a "cord size" trailer w/dump.
2.5-3 times a 8" bed will hold.
My 16" Husky has gone through 2 cords of oak without sharpening yet.
For the price of replacement chains, we quit sharpening them 2 yrs ago.

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  #8  
Old 12-24-2007, 08:41 AM
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I have an old Homelite thats got to be 25 years old,just had to buy a new chain!
Starts every time first or second pull.

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  #9  
Old 12-24-2007, 09:01 AM
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Baileys is the cutting bible!
Ever time you fill it with gas you should fill it with oil. Make sure your using winter grade oil in order to lube that bar. Also file or sharpen the chain every time you fill or stop cutting. Dirt, bark, and every day use causes the chain to dull and a sharp too is a good tool!
If you use a good chain there are guides to help on your angle but dont forget to take the rakers down too with a flat file.
I cut over 15 cords a winter to heat my home. and garage and nothing like a husky and a sharp chain.
Best bet is to buy a sharpening guide for your round files to keep it simple.
Wear a helmet with ear muffs, and eye protection. They dont call'em widow makers for nothing!

  #10  
Old 12-24-2007, 11:04 AM
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If you bought chain locally, chances are it was Oregoen chain. They make the majority of chain in the USA. They make all the chain for Sthil in their South America plant. If the part # on the chain you got starts with 91VG, that is low kickback homeowner chain. This is what we recomend the average homeowner uses so they don't split themselves open. All the tips offered here are valid, but you may be able to get a more agressive chain. Oregeon just came out with chain that is a 55 degree angle, rather than the original 60 deg. suppose to cut better and faster. A;so, make sure chain is tight and on properly. I can't tell you how many times we have had a saw in our shop with the chain backward. Also, clean your bar grooves out really good, and grease your sproket so your chain spins at the correct rpm,s. Just my .02, I,m a Husky dealer from Michigan. JOHN

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  #11  
Old 12-24-2007, 07:25 PM
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The chain should be "touched up" each time that the saw is fueled up. Make sure to grease the roller nose of the bar as well at each fill-up. The chain willl dull more quickly in dirt or dirty wood, than in clean wood. With a little practice you can sharpen the entire chain effectively in less time than it took to type this.

Also imperative to keep it tight, as it will lay sideways and eat up the bar quickly when it gets loose. Also a good idea to invest in a log lift, to keep the logs off the ground and the chain out of the dirt.

The "drags" must be lowered once in a while to keep the teeth taking a big enough bite out of the logs they are cutting.

I heat my house and shop with firewood, and cut just about every day this time of year. We have three Husqvarna chain saws, and a couple of Echo's. Two of the Husky's are from the 1980's, professional models, very good saws, but I don't them as often as the Echo's or the one newer Husky due to the weight. Newer saws are mostly plastic, and half the weight of the old stuff....and I'm getting old and tired!......Cliff

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  #12  
Old 12-24-2007, 09:01 PM
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Keith Vrabec Keith Vrabec is offline
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GOt a new Stihl, love the "no tools" chain adjustment. Killed a little Pouland pretty easily, seems to me it's safer to cut with a real saw than the toys. Dad had an Echo 452 for 20 yrs, still running quite well.

KEEP THE LEFT ELBOW STRAIGHT!!!! Don't eat the bar....That's bad. Dropping it on the thigh usually isn't too bad, but inconvienent to say the least. Painfull none the less.

I think logging is second most riskiest profession, behind deep sea fishing, but not sure exactly.

Don't laugh...We have been using waste oil for years instead of bar and chain oil...Can get a chain for $15, and as much as we use the saws, it pays for the new chains before they wear out. Pays for the bars as well.

Dirt and rocks are nightmares, esp inthe mountains where we cut. One second on a rock and your chain is shot. I usually carry three sharp chains when I cut. And usually come home with three dull ones! Did about 8 cords this summer clearing a lot.

Split with a maul. Get real muscles, and a biceps tendonitis when you do two cords in one day...takes two months to heal. Forces you to work on car stuff instead!!! K=1/2 mv2. I use a 12 pounder and swing for speed.



Seriously, be careful out there. I see too many injuries with guys just hurrying. NEVER make it a time-limited job, just do what you can and leave it at that. I have a lot of respect for the guys that do this for a living.

As said previous, wear helmets and ear protection, glasses and chaps if you're a regular. All this stuff together is less than an ER copay. Esp if you hit the right yard sale!!!

  #13  
Old 12-24-2007, 10:47 PM
GTOLIB GTOLIB is offline
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great advice guys , thanks I wear eye protection and gloves ,boots and ear plugs.
I always try to cut off the ground ,didn't think dirt was that bad .
the new chain was a Oregon , kinda hit some dirt , but I keep it clean ,lubed and adjusted

I know the chain is in the correct direction, that was the first thing I checked ,you never know ,lol I wouldn't dout it if I did

Baileys site is still down ,mustbe for the holidays ,was looking at a Husky also on another site .


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  #14  
Old 12-25-2007, 03:01 PM
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Just another note on this topic, chain tooth shape is extremly important for clean and easy cutting. I find that a tool called CHAIN SHARP made by PFERD a German company, makes sharpening much easier, it has a round and a flat file and keeps the rakers in the correct relation to the teeth, $20. While you are shopping, buy a wedge so you dont get the bar stuck! Bruce.

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  #15  
Old 12-31-2007, 12:45 PM
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A little trick my Dad taught me for keeping the chain out of the dirt. Watch the shavings, when they change color, you are into the bark. The dirt is next!

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