[baron_]

A few years ago I swore that I would make a comprehensive tutorial with detailed pictures...showing how to completely install disc brakes.
Here it is, for a 1967 gto....but will be the same for a lot of a-bodies

Over on teamchevelle, they've got a nice tutorial showing how to modify drum spindles into disc spindles on the cheap...to get disc brakes.
I found it pretty close to what was actually needed (a few changes)

So, buy a used set of disc brakes off anyone for $200, $300 and resell those disc spindles and you could have your own set for almost free - and not even have to take your ball joints apart!

Obviously, if you've got an extra $150 or so to drop on new spindles, those will work too. Just skip a few steps in this process.


Anyway, here's the start on this. Maybe it'll make an eventual sticky. I'm pretty surprised this hasn't already been done on a dozen different websites. For those that have done it a dozen times...it's easy. But there are a few little tricks for those that haven't!


Start with disassembly. Take your wheel off....and you'll find the drum.
The drum will not come off without taking the dust cap off the end of the spindle. A screwdriver or hammer (or both) will pound off that dust cap.

Take it off...you'll see a cotter pin and large nut underneath. Remove both and the washer underneath. Save both! See picture.

You should now see a bearing behind that washer and nut. Take it out. The drum will now come off with some persuasion in the form of a hammer. Just beat it off.

There is another bearing behind the drum that will probably come out with it.
Throw drum away. Now you've got the drum springs, pads - etc etc. Rip all that out - cut it out...save it for some reason if you want.
I took an angle grinder and got rid of it all in a few seconds.

Keep ripping stuff apart until you see three bolts in the form of a triangle. Disconnect the brake line going to the bleeder (or cut it - you don't need it).
And then take out those three bolts. One threads into the top of the spindle. Two go in the bottom with nuts on the back. Save bolts if you want to reuse them. I replaced from hardware store.
One note: Save the clips and mount that holds the rubber brakeline to the frame. There is a mount on the frame holding your metal line firm to the frame. It connects to the rubber line going to the drum brake bleeder. That frame mount and clips can be reused later.

20 or so minutes later you'll see a bare spindle. Just keep stripping stuff until you get to the backing plate. The bleeder and all that stuff can come off all at once. Second picture is the backing plate and the old brake hose with the frame mount I told you about. Save that frame mount! This picture also shows you the three bolts you need to remove to get it all off.

[baron_]

You should see a rather bare spindle at this point. Three mounting points to it. Clean up as much as you can. The cleaner, the better. This might be a nice time to sandblast/paint, or do whatever you please.



Pic #3 is what we're working toward. It's the drum spindle modified to fit disc brakes.
Pic #4 shows the modification needed. You only need grind the top bolt hole. It allows the bracket to fit flushly against the spindle. To accomplish this, you need to grind off a solid inch or so from that top boss.
See the difference in the pictures.

The original mounting boss sticks out over an inch. Grind it until it's almost flush. Go slow, use an angle grinder....and grab your spindle bracket.

[baron_]

To help see how much to grind, i bolted the bottom two pieces together and moved the bracket forwad, until it made contact with that upper boss.

I ground until it fit flushly.


If you're using reproduction disc spindles, you can buy a reproduction upper bolt that threads into the spindle. I believe it's like 3/4" long, and fine thread. If you're doing the cheapie conversion, I believe the bolt you need is 7/16" and fine thread. Buy a 1" long one and use a washer, or cut it down - whatever. Your hardware will have this bolt.



Attached is also a picture I'll credit to team chevelle and a fella named Derek Kiefer, I believe
Derek has also posted some of the links and prices to parts you can simply buy to do this conversion...if you don't want to start with used parts.
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/show...sc+brakes+rear

[baron_]

Here's a pic from the back.

Once everything is aligning well. Take it all apart and add the dust shield

You don't really need it, but it makes it look nice and can keep out some dirt.
It fits above two of the caliper brackets while sitting flushly on one of the spindle mounts, as seen.

[baron_]

Now take your rotor and bearings.

I show a picture of the box with the napa part #, if you need it.
They're different size bearings, so they fit in very obviously...one in the front, one in the back.
Pack these bearings. Do a search for how to properly pack them with grease. Insert bearing into the back of the rotor, leave the front one out.

Quite a few people recommend putting some extra bearing grease in the middle of the rotor, between the two bearings. Extra insurance? Will heat up and spread to the bearings on either side? Up to you.

[baron_]

Now you get to the bearing seal. You need one for the rear bearing.

Picture shows the part #
With the rear bearing properly packed, lay the seal over top of the rotor like pictured. Gently and lightly tap it down into place, until it is flush, as pictured.

[baron_]

Minor step: If your rotors are new...spray down with carb cleaner to clean off the glue and residue from the packaging. If old, have 'em turned and then do that


With the bearing on the outside uninstalled, slip the rotor over your spindle.

It should take some wiggling, but will fit pretty snugly against the backing plate and spindle.

Then insert your bearing.

Remember that washer from before? The one that came off with the nut on the spindle that you took off to remove the drum? Clean up that washer and it goes over the bearing on the outside, as pictured. It has a notch in it, so it fits one way....

[baron_]

And then put the spindle nut back on...and torque to 12 foot/pounds (not very tight at all)


After you've done that, loosen the spindle nut again. And retorque to 12 foot pounds yet again. Now back the nut off until you find the first spot that the cotter pin can foot through.

Your goal is to have a snug fit, but a little bit of play so it can spin nicely.
The above method is how i've heard it should be done....in two steps

Rotor should now spin pretty well when you turn it

[baron_]

Now it's time for the calipers

Grab your brake pads and assemble them. Depending on the brand you buy, they can be a bit different. Some have a sticky side that needs applied to them, some have a little spring that clips to them...they vary

But you should be able to notice that they only fit in the caliper in one manner.
A tab on one side that bends 90 degrees should fit snugly in the caliper, while the other pad has a loose fit, or is held into the caliper with a little clip. Doesn't matter either way. Once they're in the caliper, they shouldn't be able to move very much - you'll see later

[baron_]

So now, put the pads in the caliper and you might have to hold 'em there


Hold that above the caliper bracket and slide them around the rotor. Doesn't matter if they fall a bit or get out of place, yet.



Once the caliper is within the brackets, grab your two caliper bolts. They sell 'em at autozone or anywhere...or should be with your calipers.

These two bolts slide through from the back and go below little tabs on the rear brakepads, as seen in the pictures. If you don't have flips holding the pads in place, these will do it anyway. You'll just have to invent a few cusswords as you slide your fingers in and hold them up, so the bolt can go under. The bolt should go through the pads in the front - holding them in place


This might be a good place to mention that it does absolutely matter which caliper is on which side. (one of my pictures has it fitting, but it's on the wrong side)

The bleeder should point up, and toward the back of the car.

last is a picture of the banjo bolt...which you'll need in the next step

[baron_]

Tighten those two caliper bolts with your allen wrench and we can move to the brake lines


I used camaro brake lines, as they fit the original brackets perfectly. Part number shown.

You'll also need banjo bolts and copper washers for them.
The banjo bolts bolt into the calipers. They have a hold in the side that the fluid comes out...and are sealed on each side by a copper washer. Washers should be in the box with the brakelines, but i believe they are 7/16" x 11/16" x 1/32" (can be bought at autozone in the help section in a pack that will contain 2 out of 8 or so)

Pictures are shown.


Last? Reassemble rubber brake lines to the frame mount with the original clips (or replace with new)

And remember to change your proportioning valve to a disc/drum one

Last suggestion. The more prep work you do, the better it will work. Paint that won't come off easily is nice. Brake fluid will make your calipers rust in a hurry...and will strip paint. Most of mine i doused with a healthy coating of KBS

[foreverLaur]

wow, this is by far the most impressive installation tutorial I've ever seen - by far better than the magazines or any installation instructions

This should be a sticky - its very helpful

[baron_]

bored bump

[AG]

What about the master?

[baron_]

Master cylinder?

I usually go to autozone and spend 29.99 (or whatever) on a disc/drum master cylinder from a '69 camaro. That has always worked well for me

The problem you'll run into is that they don't come with the correct length plunger on the back, that hooks to the brake pedal.
There are different length ones when you go from drum/drum to disc/drum, so you have to salvage that plunger from a core, or buy one on ebay or something

[1967SC]

Will those rotors work with the 4 piston calipers.If so,where are they from ? NAPA ?

[baron_]

Originally Posted by 1967SC

Will those rotors work with the 4 piston calipers.If so,where are they from ? NAPA ?

I've never seen a difference in rotors between 4-piston and two piston
I'm guessing they'll work


Yes: napa is where I got mine
Just about any part store can cross reference the numbers, though

[dhr1022]

Baron,
nice job on the tutorial,
I couldn't find were you got the major parts from?
Rotors, calipers,Brackets etc.
If you could let me know that's great.
I am doing a 65 Tempest so I would think the 67 would take the same items.
Did you use power assist?
My car is manual brakes and I think I read some-wear there is not much difference in stopping between the two.
What has been the most popular application?
Thanks
Dman

[baron_]

You can get the parts anywhere.
I bought 'em from napa, because i had a hookup, there.
Even autozone carries it all


The rotors, calipers are from 1968-1972 chevelle, gto, 442
(1967 is one year and might be different - 4 piston calipers vs 2 piston from later years)
Up to you as to whether you buy the cheapie brands or expensive stuff. I went with cheap...and seems to work well


I didn't use power assist, as I didn't want those pulley headaches. I don't really complain about lack of power brakes. Power steering would be nice, though

[dhr1022]

I'm going to use the Scarebird brackets with Celebrity calipers.
Has any body done this, if so Did you use the dust shields from Celebrity or none at all
are there pros and cons to using them or not(dust shields)?