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Old 03-31-2009, 08:28 PM
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JJKJ JJKJ is offline
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Default A couple assembly and break-in questions

As I prepare for final assembly, I'd like to make sure my plans are correct.

First question regards assembly lube vs reg oil and where it's used. I'm running a flat-tappet hyd cam so I know I'll be using assembly lube on the cam lobes. However, do I need lube or just oil on the cam bearings? How about rod and mains? I had just planned to use 30 wt oil, but should I use assembly lube? I plan to soak timing chain, lifters and roller rockers in 30 wt oil overnight prior. I plan to wipe down the cylinder walls with oil, but I've seen some reference to assembly lube on the piston skirts; is this a good plan or not necessary? Any other tips on oil and assembly lube?

Second question regards initial break-in. I've read several threads on this and a common theme is to use a known-quantity carb. Unfortunately, I don't have a good carb to do that. My original carb was 2bbl which is being replaced with a rebuilt q-jet. Any tips on initial break-in with a newly rebuilt carb? I know about priming the oil system for initial start, but how do you get the fuel system primed?

Thanks,

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  #2  
Old 03-31-2009, 09:32 PM
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My final assy process below assumes all cleanings, test fits, clearance checks, geometry checks, galley plug checks have been done already to short block.

The most important thing for me is laying the crank for the final time. I install block-halves of mains and coat with engine assy lube, the black moly stuff in the black squeeze tube. I install upper half of BOP rear main seal per instructions. Then I lay crank in bearings. Next I install lower main inserts in the caps and coat with assy lube. Then I put caps in place, finger tighten bolts. I torque the caps to 1/2 rated torque and "tonk" crank back and forth to align thrust main. Then I torque crank in place to correct torque. Then I let sit overnight while the silicon in the BOP seal cures.

Next day I check end-play and spin crank by hand on counterweights to feel smoothness of motion. Any binding or rough spots is a red flag. I install #1 piston/ring pack assy. I spray WD-40 on cylinder walls and ring pack. I put 30 wt or assy lube on piston skirts. I also oil wrist pin. I use engine assy lube on rod bearings. When #1 piston is installed, I next install and degree camshaft with timing set you're going to use. Before installing timing set, roll cam a few revolutions by hand to check for binding in the cam bearings.

It's much easier to degree engine when only #1 slug is installed = less drag when turning engine back and forth for degree operations. I use engine assy lube on cam bearings. I degree cam and then install other 7 slugs. Check side clearance on rods as pairs are installed. Use a good tapered ring compressor and rod bolt protectors.

Next install hardened oil pump driveshaft, oil pump/pickup, dipstick tube, windage tray, etc.

I use the comp cam lube on the cam lobes and feet of lifters. I soak lifters and roller rockers overnight before I install them.

For break-in, I set engine to TDC on #1, and rotate dist body until HEI/MSD pickup/reluctor points are just past lining up, so it's like it just fired. It's like setting a points distributor to "points open", when it would have opened the points and fired. That usually gets you close enough to start. Your helper can shoot the timing at 2000-3000 while it's running if it runs poorly during cam break-in.

Next, I hook rubber hose to fuel input on carb. Other side of rubber hose goes to an upside-down gear oil bottle or other pint/quart container thats had it's bottom cut off and has a pointy spout screwed on, that the hose will fit on. You can also use a funnel if the 3/8" rubber line will stay on the end. Hold funnel/line above carb. Like a beer-bong, but with gas! Pour a shot of gas into the funnel and work the throttle until the accel pump starts giving shots down the throats. Keep adding gas until she won't take anymore. Then carefully remove line and funnel, and hook up fuel line. Dry any spilt gas!! No smoking and electrical system unhooked!

For priming the fuel pump/lines, you can try a siphon pump or something to try to pull gas up to the fuel pump. As long as the carb bowl is full, it usually runs long enough to get the fuel pump primed and going.

Hook it all up, double check everything and light it off! Be sure to have a water hose, fire extinquisher, a helper or two during the process. Mufflers and gauges are a must. I usually break it in with a thermostat that's been drilled to remove air pockets, and straight water. You always get a leak or two that requires pulling the cooling system down. When it fires up, it will want more water. Have a helper keep the radiator topped off until it starts to warm up to 150-170. When it no longer wants water, install radiator cap. If you shut it down with engine hot and rad cap off, it will geiser and burn whoever is standing over engine. The engine will barf all it's water, and it makes a real mess!!! Ask how I know!! If it barfs or blows a hose, just shut down and let it cool. Babies and new engines barf.

After the initial break-in, let cool. Survey for leaks, etc. Then start it back up and give it an initial carb and distributor tune. Shut it down, let cool. Drop oil and water and install new fluids. Check for metal in oil and filter. Run it easy for the next 500 miles.

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Last edited by chiphead; 03-31-2009 at 10:01 PM.
  #3  
Old 03-31-2009, 10:02 PM
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Awesome response Chiphead. Very informative and thorough. I appreciate the time it took to respond!

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Old 03-31-2009, 10:11 PM
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Oh yea, keep everything clean! I clean most parts with brakekleener, blow them off and lay them on a cleaned workbench. Then I only pull parts from that clean workbench for installation. Be careful of stray fibers from clothes, shop rags and paper towels. Be wary of cross-contamination from dirty parts or dirty tools. I wear rubber nirtile gloves and change them often. Make sure the area is free from sand, dirt, metal shavings, etc. Bag engine with large clean trash bag when work is not being done.

And if you get tired, stop. You will rush and make mistakes if you are tired or distracted. If something doesn't look right, stop. Beware of the "it'll be fine" monster.

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  #5  
Old 04-01-2009, 09:34 AM
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Very thorough post ChipHead, kuddos. I have a couple things to add:

* Before the heads are on, verify the timing marks on the balancer.

* When installing the distributor, put the timing mark on 12 degrees (balancer) and line up the rotor. This will prevent you from having to adjust the timing much, if at all, on initial startup. You could even go to 18, but depending on the timing cover, you may not have marks that high.

* Have the heater controls set to 'Heat'. This allows air pockets to be removed from the heater core as well.

* You can use a small squirt bottle to fill the carb through the vent tube. Use a bottle that's safe with gas, and you can test it by putting a little gas in it and letting it sit for a while.

* Tighten oil pan rail bolts before the timing cover bolts. Use the correct rear pan gasket for the pan you're using. RTV in the corners of the main cap/block area, don't over do it.

* I like dumping the oil and changing the filter after initial startup and cam break in, and check for debris & bearing material. This one is critical, since most failures occur at this point, and no sense going forward if you find trash.

* Use dino-oil on breakin, no synthetics! Valvoline VR1 10-30 is a good choice. Use cam breakin additive too. Cam lobes and lifter faces should have cam breakin goo on them. I like adding what's left over on the gear, espcially if using a new gear on the distributor.

* I wipe bores with engine oil. I dip piston/rod assemblies in a coffee can with oil before installing in the bores. This ensures everything gets oiled.

* I wipe rod and main bearing surfaces with a brake cleaner and a clean rag before putting the bearing half in. Only wipe the rear parts of the bearing, not the face that rides on the journals. No scuffing, that's old technology, and affects bearing coatings that are there for breakin. I wipe crank journals with oil before installing the rod big ends, or dropping the crank in the block, as well as a light coat on the bearing face itself. You can use assembly lube if you choose, but I personally use oil. If you are using assembly lube, I suggest using the bottled stuff that says Engine Assembly Lube, and not cam lube stuff (some are the same, but some aren't).

* I also wipe rod big end sides with oil (or assembly lube), as well as the thrust bearing side surfaces.

.

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  #6  
Old 04-01-2009, 04:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JJKJ View Post
First question regards assembly lube vs reg oil and where it's used. I'm running a flat-tappet hyd cam so I know I'll be using assembly lube on the cam lobes.
"Lube" in the case of cam lobes and lifter feet is heavy-bodied molybenum disulphide fortified grease.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JJKJ View Post
However, do I need lube or just oil on the cam bearings? How about rod and mains? I had just planned to use 30 wt oil, but should I use assembly lube?
Oil is OK; I prefer Lubriplate #105 motor assembly grease. Very light-bodied white grease.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JJKJ View Post
I plan to soak timing chain, lifters and roller rockers in 30 wt oil overnight prior.
Pointless, especially soaking lifters. I use an oil squirt can filled with ATF and a one-inch piece of vacuum hose pushed over the spout. The rubber hose seals to the side of the lifter so you can PUMP the lifter full 'til it drools out the top. At that point, you can BENCH TEST the lifter leakdown and correct as needed. You will then have to be extra-careful when preloading the lifter plungers/adjusting the rocker arms. Do that with the intake manifold OFF so you can SEE the lifter preload.

Dunking the chain and rockers in oil is OK; but there's no point to soaking them "overnight". I usually use the 105 on the pushrod tips, valve tips and pivot balls; a roller-lifter would be better served with engine oil.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JJKJ View Post
I plan to wipe down the cylinder walls with oil, but I've seen some reference to assembly lube on the piston skirts;
I use a VERY LIGHT skim of ATF on cylinder walls; and about two drops on each ring. Don't need anything else on the skirts. Don't forget to lube the piston pins. Engine oil on the pins is fine; ATF would probably be OK too.

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