[maf blogger danny]

I have a 68 Firebird which is having ignition problems.

It all started last week when my bracket that holds the brake light switch broke off which was making my brake lights malfunction. But i used some JB Kwik Weld on that, so that's not what my question is about

Much to my chagrin, after I got the bracket glued on, I tried to start up the car and I didn't get anything. My accessories work, lights work, radio etc. when i put my ignition key to the right, but then i push it that extra bit to 'start' up, i get nothing.

My voltmeter doesn't budge when I do it either, it stays between 12-13 but the needle never moves when i turn the key. I tried pulling the battery to see if it was too weak, but after a fresh charge I still had the exact same problem.

I then pulled my old starter and took it to Autozone where they tested it and it DID kick out. The guy told me it was weak and probably the cause of the problem. I could hear that it was indeed not very loud...but I was skeptical. I bought a new starter anyways, but because I was suspicious I kept my core.

When I went home, before installing the new one, i hooked it up to a purple ignition wire, yellow coil wire and my batt. positive cable... but i didn't bolt it up, i held it firmly on the ground and had my girlfriend try the ignition.

still nothin.

so now I am just confused and frustrated and sad. What else can i check? The ignition switch behind the ignition cylinder??

does the purple wire go straight from the solenoid to the ignition switch??? or is there a relay somewhere between there that could be the cause of the problem??

anything guys?

[LPete]

The starter has to be grounded to the engine to work. A good jumper cable would probably work.

Test with a test light for power on the purple wire while trying to start it.

["QUICK-SILVER"]

You need to check the purple wire for voltage on the starter end with key in crank position. From the factory the car did have a safety switch in the purple wire so it wouldn't crank in gear.
Stick/straight/manual shift cars used a clutch safety switch. Clutch pedal had to be depresed before power would go to the starter solenoid. It mounts and works sort of similar to the stop light switch.
Automtic cars have a neutral safety switch. Shifter has to be in park or neutral for the car to crank.
Depending on what transmssion type you have, manual or auto, a simple jumper across the purple wires in the plug-in/plastic connector at the safety switch should let the solenoid engage if the safety switch was at fault.
Automatic column shift has the safety switch mounted to the steering column under the dash. Floor shift the safety should be on the shifter inside the console.

While you have the safety switch unplugged, you can test for power making it to there from the ignition switch.

Testing purple wire for power on back of ignition switch will have everything covered except where the purple wire goes through the firewall.

Test light or volt meter will be good enough for initial testing.

BE CAREFUL!! Anytime you're working on a car with starter safety switches bypassed.
ESPECIALLY, if you're working with a helper.
DON'T trust your life with an emergency brake AND watch out for fan and belts.

Let us know what you find.

[george kujanski]

What Lpete said about testing the starter off the car. You need to connect the starter body to the battery negative with a large cable like a battery jumper cable.

George

[Held for Ransom]

Try taking the shifter out of Park, put it back into Park and try again.

[maf blogger danny]

thanks for the tips guys I will try that with a jumper cable when I get home and I'll let you know what happens

[maf blogger danny]

hey guys thank you all for your input I really appreciate your willingness to help out despite the total newb-ness of my questions. So I put a new starter in and it started up like new. So I guess that means it was the solenoid? I wish there was a clear explanation as to why it didn't respond at all, like it wasn't even there.

[Jack Blum]

The solenoid has a big switch in it that connects the battery positive to the starter motor. so if the solenoid is burnt out the motor never runs. So yea you can put all the power you want to it and nothing happens. I have tested the motor in the past by using jumper cables and touch the positive to the big lead going into the back of the motor. Then it should run. Makes a nice big spark to....

[BVR421]

[QUOTE= So I put a new starter in and it started up like new. So I guess that means it was the solenoid? .[/QUOTE]
It probably just means that the wires that were loose got tightened up properly when you reinstalled starter.

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Originally Posted by BVR421

It probably just means that the wires that were loose got tightened up properly when you reinstalled starter.

You read the first post like I did, go back and read it again.
Firmly to the ground was just that, stuck to the earth, dirt, THE GROUND. Not quite the same as firmly grounded to the car.

After he bolted the new starter to the car everything was fine. The old starter testing weak probably needed solenoid repair or new set of brushes.