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Old 05-08-2010, 07:53 AM
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Default 400 Won't Hold Idle/Doesn't Feel Strong

About a month ago I posted a saga on here about this issue, I found a loose distributor clamp, timed the car and thought I was done, now the same symptoms are back:

Idles rough, won't idle at all when cold, barely holds idle at 195 degrees
Doesn't feel as strong as it should when running
Have to rev it at stop lights or when braking
When I can get it to idle right, vaccuum about 10 or 12 lbs

Car/Engine:
64 GTO
1976 400 w/ Edelbrock Head, Performer Intake and Edelbrock 800 CFM carb, Accel ignition w/ super coil

Things I've done:
Timed car at 12 BTDC initial, double checked this AM
Held hands over carb throat when running, car chokes out
Sprayed flammable spray over vacuum hoses...can't hear a marked increase in idle

Things I've noticed:
A little spray of gas occassionally from accelerator pump
Fast idle linkage looks and feels flaky...one blip of the pedal and I lose the fast idle

I'm starting to think the Edelbrock is the root of the problem, but.....

Thanks in Advance,
Rick

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Old 05-08-2010, 08:24 AM
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When you set the initial, did you take the vacuum line of the advance canister and plug it ? I forgot one time and my symptoms were close to yours !

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Old 05-08-2010, 08:44 AM
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Yes, I did

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Old 05-08-2010, 08:55 AM
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look down the carb while idiling, you should not see any fuel dripping...if there is fuel dripping, try removing the idle mixture screws, spray some gumout in the holes and then blow compressed air in the holes....works with my 2 barrel rochester all the time.

try a quick carb "tune up"...spray gumout all around in the carb, rev the engine high and then cover the top of the carb choking the engine.

does the engine idle better at a little higher initial timing?...try 14, see if that raises your vacuum also.

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Old 05-08-2010, 09:22 AM
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I doubt its your carb. Since you don't have a vacuum leak, I'm more inclined to think it is your ignition box. Are you sure it is hooked up correctly?

I don't have an Accel box, but I do run a Crane Hi-6 which is similar. If I mix up the + and - wires coming from the pickup when connecting them to my box, I have almost the exact same symptoms as you describe. It has happened to me several times when I am in a rush when connecting it.

Closely go over all of the connections and make sure they are correct. If you have the HEI stuff handy, try it and see if it works better. If so, then either your connections are bad or the box is fried. My original crane box bit the dust after about 8 years and so I had to replace it last year, so it happens.

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Old 05-08-2010, 09:28 AM
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What ignition box? I have an Accel HEI distributor with integral coil mounted on the cap.

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Old 05-08-2010, 09:40 AM
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Oh, you implied a box by stating "Accel Ignition w/ super coil.", so naturally that is what people would assume.

Well, below the coil, there should be a long metal ground strap which grounds the coil to one of the plug in connectors. Is it in place?

Also remove the cap and check the that the carbon contact is still in one piece. Also check to see if there is any signs of carbon tracking on the inside of the cap.

When you say the car idles too low at 195; how low?


Last edited by myckee; 05-08-2010 at 09:46 AM.
  #8  
Old 05-08-2010, 09:51 AM
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I'm thinking about 650/750 RPM

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Old 05-08-2010, 09:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Koppster View Post
What ignition box? I have an Accel HEI distributor with integral coil mounted on the cap.
OK, you have a PINK wire running to that HEI??
can get one from Year one.
the HEI uses 12 VOLTS, do NOT hook the old Resistor wire to the HEI, your basicallyn running at 2/3 the spark you need, AND your carb is too big for a 400
You should run a 600, not an 800, especially for a test and tune.
Theres the answers, timing looks good, depending on cam.
Good luck!@

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Old 05-08-2010, 10:23 AM
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Bruce...I hear ya but something I didn't tell you is this car ran sweet 2 months ago..this is a relatively new issue

Here's some dizzy & carb pics....?

I see corrosion and moisture in the dizzy
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Old 05-08-2010, 10:31 AM
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More pics showing corrsosion
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Old 05-08-2010, 11:29 AM
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you mentioned a little spray of gas occassionaly in the things you notice, are you saying you can see gas down the carb at idle? my edelbrock carb use have trouble with either the float sticking or some trash keeping the needle hung open just a tad, never could figure it out but it did this 3-4 times and my motor acted just as you have described. hows your plugs look?

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Old 05-08-2010, 12:11 PM
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On the center of the rotor, you can just wipe off that carbon dust. Before you wipe out the inside of the cap, just make sure there isn't a line or arc imprint between any of the terminals or from the terminals leading down the cap towards the distributor base. If so the spark is crossfiring or grounding out in which case the cap will need to be replaced.

I see you have a quality made in Canada cap so this likely isn't the fault.

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Old 05-08-2010, 12:32 PM
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You have re-checked the distributor? Maybe looked at the distributor gear for wear?
I'd try to find a swap on carb to see if that's your problem. Gotta love an Edelbrock.

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Old 05-08-2010, 01:21 PM
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What does it have for a cam and was it degreed?

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Old 05-08-2010, 07:09 PM
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I am willing to bet your Elderbrock carb. is out a ton on the idle circuit, drop Cliff Ruggles a note, he will straighten you out on the basics.

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Old 05-08-2010, 07:12 PM
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worried about the corrosion, simply drill about 4 holes in the cap in between the eack terminial on the circumference of the cap. I did, works for me, oxidation caused by heat build up, holes will cure your problem. I used a 3/16 drill bite. I drilled 6 holes in my cap!!

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Old 05-09-2010, 09:17 AM
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Pulled some plugs this AM, they look a hair rich but not too bad, all 4 look identical, I did notice what looks like a bit of arcing (?) on all of them

I'm at the point that I believe the main problem is the carbureutor which probably needs a rebuild at the minimum and I think the car needs a good tune up too (plugs, wires, cap & rotor OR new eBay HEI dizzy).

Thoughts?
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Old 05-09-2010, 09:34 AM
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Those plugs do look too rich, really the only way to read them is with the right tool after a WOT run then shut it off and look at them.

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Old 05-09-2010, 09:45 AM
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Many years ago we had an Edelbrock carb on the Bird; same symptoms as you describe. Took it apart and found all kinds of junk inside. Did a basic rebuild and it actually worked halfway descent after that.

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