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#1
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400 Won't Hold Idle/Doesn't Feel Strong
About a month ago I posted a saga on here about this issue, I found a loose distributor clamp, timed the car and thought I was done, now the same symptoms are back:
Idles rough, won't idle at all when cold, barely holds idle at 195 degrees Doesn't feel as strong as it should when running Have to rev it at stop lights or when braking When I can get it to idle right, vaccuum about 10 or 12 lbs Car/Engine: 64 GTO 1976 400 w/ Edelbrock Head, Performer Intake and Edelbrock 800 CFM carb, Accel ignition w/ super coil Things I've done: Timed car at 12 BTDC initial, double checked this AM Held hands over carb throat when running, car chokes out Sprayed flammable spray over vacuum hoses...can't hear a marked increase in idle Things I've noticed: A little spray of gas occassionally from accelerator pump Fast idle linkage looks and feels flaky...one blip of the pedal and I lose the fast idle I'm starting to think the Edelbrock is the root of the problem, but..... Thanks in Advance, Rick
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#2
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When you set the initial, did you take the vacuum line of the advance canister and plug it ? I forgot one time and my symptoms were close to yours !
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#3
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Yes, I did
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#4
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look down the carb while idiling, you should not see any fuel dripping...if there is fuel dripping, try removing the idle mixture screws, spray some gumout in the holes and then blow compressed air in the holes....works with my 2 barrel rochester all the time.
try a quick carb "tune up"...spray gumout all around in the carb, rev the engine high and then cover the top of the carb choking the engine. does the engine idle better at a little higher initial timing?...try 14, see if that raises your vacuum also.
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1970 Lemans Sport, PPR 383/4spd. |
#5
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I doubt its your carb. Since you don't have a vacuum leak, I'm more inclined to think it is your ignition box. Are you sure it is hooked up correctly?
I don't have an Accel box, but I do run a Crane Hi-6 which is similar. If I mix up the + and - wires coming from the pickup when connecting them to my box, I have almost the exact same symptoms as you describe. It has happened to me several times when I am in a rush when connecting it. Closely go over all of the connections and make sure they are correct. If you have the HEI stuff handy, try it and see if it works better. If so, then either your connections are bad or the box is fried. My original crane box bit the dust after about 8 years and so I had to replace it last year, so it happens. |
#6
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What ignition box? I have an Accel HEI distributor with integral coil mounted on the cap.
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#7
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Oh, you implied a box by stating "Accel Ignition w/ super coil.", so naturally that is what people would assume.
Well, below the coil, there should be a long metal ground strap which grounds the coil to one of the plug in connectors. Is it in place? Also remove the cap and check the that the carbon contact is still in one piece. Also check to see if there is any signs of carbon tracking on the inside of the cap. When you say the car idles too low at 195; how low? Last edited by myckee; 05-08-2010 at 09:46 AM. |
#8
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I'm thinking about 650/750 RPM
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#9
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Quote:
can get one from Year one. the HEI uses 12 VOLTS, do NOT hook the old Resistor wire to the HEI, your basicallyn running at 2/3 the spark you need, AND your carb is too big for a 400 You should run a 600, not an 800, especially for a test and tune. Theres the answers, timing looks good, depending on cam. Good luck!@
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"The Future Belongs to those who are STILL Willing to get their Hands Dirty" .. my Grandfather |
#10
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Bruce...I hear ya but something I didn't tell you is this car ran sweet 2 months ago..this is a relatively new issue
Here's some dizzy & carb pics....? I see corrosion and moisture in the dizzy
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#11
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More pics showing corrsosion
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#12
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you mentioned a little spray of gas occassionaly in the things you notice, are you saying you can see gas down the carb at idle? my edelbrock carb use have trouble with either the float sticking or some trash keeping the needle hung open just a tad, never could figure it out but it did this 3-4 times and my motor acted just as you have described. hows your plugs look?
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http://performerrpm.myphotoalbum.com/view_album.php? |
#13
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On the center of the rotor, you can just wipe off that carbon dust. Before you wipe out the inside of the cap, just make sure there isn't a line or arc imprint between any of the terminals or from the terminals leading down the cap towards the distributor base. If so the spark is crossfiring or grounding out in which case the cap will need to be replaced.
I see you have a quality made in Canada cap so this likely isn't the fault. |
#14
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You have re-checked the distributor? Maybe looked at the distributor gear for wear?
I'd try to find a swap on carb to see if that's your problem. Gotta love an Edelbrock.
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frittering and wasting the hours in an off hand way.... 1969 GTO, 455ci, 230/236 Pontiac Dude's "Butcher Special" Comp hyd roller cam with Crower HIPPO solid roller lifters, Q-jet, Edelbrock P4B-QJ, Doug's headers, ported 6X-8 (97cc) heads, TKO600, 3.73 geared Eaton Tru-Trac 8.5", hydroboost, rear disc brakes......and my greatest mechanical feat....a new heater core. |
#15
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What does it have for a cam and was it degreed?
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#16
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I am willing to bet your Elderbrock carb. is out a ton on the idle circuit, drop Cliff Ruggles a note, he will straighten you out on the basics.
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#17
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worried about the corrosion, simply drill about 4 holes in the cap in between the eack terminial on the circumference of the cap. I did, works for me, oxidation caused by heat build up, holes will cure your problem. I used a 3/16 drill bite. I drilled 6 holes in my cap!!
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#18
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Pulled some plugs this AM, they look a hair rich but not too bad, all 4 look identical, I did notice what looks like a bit of arcing (?) on all of them
I'm at the point that I believe the main problem is the carbureutor which probably needs a rebuild at the minimum and I think the car needs a good tune up too (plugs, wires, cap & rotor OR new eBay HEI dizzy). Thoughts?
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#19
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Those plugs do look too rich, really the only way to read them is with the right tool after a WOT run then shut it off and look at them.
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Darby 74 Grandville 2Dr 455 c.i 4550# 2011 1.60 60 ft,7.33@94.55-11.502@117.74 2017, 74 firebird -3600 lbs (all bests) 1.33 60 ft, 6.314@108.39 9.950@134.32 M/T 275/60 ET SS Drag Radial 2023,(Pontiac 505) 1.27 60 ft, 5.97@112.86, 9.48@139.31.... 275/60 Radial Pro's |
#20
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Many years ago we had an Edelbrock carb on the Bird; same symptoms as you describe. Took it apart and found all kinds of junk inside. Did a basic rebuild and it actually worked halfway descent after that.
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69 Bird w/1970 400 block(409 cubes), #64 heads, hyd. roller, Q-jet by Jeff E., original interior, ps, pdb, th350, and 3.73 gears. Pump gas, street driven muscle. 3800 lbs. race weight. Best, 11.39 @118, my son's car. 79 T/A w/463, Scat crank, Eagle rods, Icon pistons, Lunati solid roller, 262/270, KRE 325 heads, Northwind intake, QF950 carb, full interior, ps, pdb, th350, and 3.73 gears. Pump gas, 3650 lbs. race weight. 10.68 @ 126 so far... no tuning yet. |
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