[FunctionalShaker]

Most of us have read with interest the '72 restoration projects of NJSteve and Keepat. Going through Steve's thread I thought: Sure would be cool to find some of the paint markings on the cars I'm restoring, for comparison and to assist others restoring '70 models.

That said: I'm in the process of restoring the front suspension on one of the cars and found some markings I'd like to share. I also noted that my control arms were painted completely black and the ball joints pressed in afterwards. I took a pic, to document it, before all the paint came off with the solvent (gasoline) I was using to clean.

I will post pics of interest as I go along and wait until I'm closer to completion before posting a more concise thread of the process -- I've seen how easily these threads can go off on tangents -- and this will be a long process as I'm restoring two cars at once, and doing most of the work myself. I will take pics of most everything -- date codes, bolts etc. as I'm going completely stock on these. I will ask for any assistance, opinions I may need and am willing to help others with information I may have.

In the one pic, the tip of the screw driver points to a white dash that faded because of the solvent (see closeup). The yellow dab at the upper ball joint was also more pronounced originally -- I have another pic. I plan to blast the parts and duplicate the markings. Pic #2 shows green yellow and white markings. There's even some pink at the base of the "plug".

[FunctionalShaker]

Here are pics from the other spindle knuckle -- different. #3 is interesting with the transparent swipe over the yellow dot. Note the remnant of orange paint. #4 looks like a long, faded pink line. #5 shows two green dabs (these are "around the corner" from #1 pic) This time I didn't do a final wash with brake cleaner.

This car has less miles than Steve's but is a little more weathered, yet with even less rust -- only two small holes below the rear window trim. The other car will need several patch panels, but the floor is rust free

[Lloyd-TX]

I'll be following your thread with great interest and anticipation, FS. Just as I did with Steve's and Pat's T/A resto threads.

Say, how about posting your first name to use when addressing you, instead of addressing you as "FS", or "Functional", etc.?

[keith k]

Oh, good... I'll have something else to reference when I get around to restoring mine

[eaglesan13]

Thanks for the pics, I too will follow with interest, but please be real careful when using gasoline to clean parts. There are safer products to use.

Originally Posted by FunctionalShaker

I took a pic, to document it, before all the paint came off with the solvent (gasoline) I was using to clean.

[pmdclassics]

I use brake cleaner for one step of the clean up process.

[bossbirdta]

Originally Posted by eaglesan13

Thanks for the pics, I too will follow with interest, but please be real careful when using gasoline to clean parts. There are safer products to use.

i totally agree. one of the best products to use PPG's DX 330- grease and wax remover or any other manufactures equivalent.

even simple green isn't bad in some situations. using professional products will net professional results.

good luck on your restoration!!

[FunctionalShaker]

Thanks for your concern, guys. Yes, I took all necessary precautions. Gas is handy and works great at removing oil and grease without leaving oily residue. I scraped as much off as possible, before hand, so it didn't take much. The gas didn't harm the paint marks. It was actually the brake cleaner I used as a final wash that dissolved them. I will use the "purple stuff" to clean more delicate parts.

For your viewing pleasure I've included some before and after undercarriage part pics. All of these parts were originally dipped in black paint. I blasted them with very fine media (plenty of experience in this department) to keep the surface texture close to original but removing all surface rust and giving the paint something to hang on to. I used Kirker two part epoxy primer (black) -- great stuff and reasonably priced. Later I'll finish coat them in the correct sheen of black. Epoxy primer is heat resistant and can be used on engine blocks as well. It also holds up to the elements much better than etching primer and lacquer based primers, which are porous, and will allow rust to form. We've all seen that look -- grey primered cars driving around with a rust patina forming.

By the way, I'm Harold -- total Dutch ancestry with an uncommon British name. Thanks Mom and Dad. I guess I could have been Hans.

[TA455HO]

Nice exhaust hangers in pic #4. Those are often missing or rusted badly. I finally found a nice set, but the guy chromed them. All four pieces plus the bolts. Really nice chrome. Still can't figure out that one.

[FunctionalShaker]

I've got the ...819 numbered trans. brace, which is correct for M40 use. I also have an ...820 numbered brace, but can't find the application. They're almost identical. Anyone have a catalog that shows that number? Maybe it's for a Camaro?

[Lloyd-TX]

Originally Posted by FunctionalShaker

By the way, I'm Harold -- total Dutch ancestry with an uncommon British name. Thanks Mom and Dad. I guess I could have been Hans.

Thanks, Harold! Easier to address you by name than by your screen name.

Looks like you're going to have one heck of a nice T/A when done. By all means please keep us updated!

[FunctionalShaker]

Upon performing the initial cleaning of the dust/splash shields, I came across the remnants of a label on each. Anyone have an idea as to what was on these labels and if there's a repro for them? The only other markings on these are the Julian date codes. One has 0550, the other, 0560 (see pics).

[FunctionalShaker]

Came across a suspension pic on ebay that shows these labels to have an AD and numbers beneath (see #12). They are available on the decal sheets often sold on Ebay.

In researching for my 70s, I've put myself to the fun task of narrowing down correct finishes for the various parts. This has been discussed many times here on the forum and, unfortunately, there are still some areas where people disagree. Even comparing the work of reputable resto. shops shows differences.

I will go with what the majority concedes to, unless I have proof of otherwise.

Case in point: Most agree that the tips of the control arms were not painted, yet those I just removed and cleaned were completely coated in original black paint, except for the ball joints themselves (see #1). Is there a difference between Norwood and Van Nuys built cars/suppliers?

It appears the ball joints had natural steel attachment plates.

What is the concensus as to proper coating for tie rod ends, sleeves and clamps? Others have said; natural steel, manganese oxide, zinc oxide and black paint. How about the center link?

Pitman arm - cast iron

Alternator fans are silver cad. How about the pulley?

Choke preheater coil box - silver cad then engine color?

Brake calipers, cast iron sounds right to me, but some say black paint.

Diff. cover - Gloss black (60%).

Brake backing plates - semi gloss black (30%).

Leaf springs - Natural steel, but I took a set apart and found what looks like black paint hidden beneath.

Drums - cast iron or phosphate?

Hood springs - phosphate, black paint? I have an NOS pair that are natural steel coated in rust preventative.

The aforementioned are my questionables. Any input regarding is appreciated. Other than that I have a pretty concise list.

How's that book coming, Mr. Oxley?

Anyone have a spare NOS control arm bushing, part #3984541?
I also need a couple of 392826 bushings and four 3975588s. PM me if you can help me out with any of these.

[Norwood]

I will say..Dif cover RAW

[Formulabruce]

Originally Posted by FunctionalShaker

Thanks for your concern, guys. Yes, I took all necessary precautions. Gas is handy and works great at removing oil and grease without leaving oily residue. I scraped as much off as possible, before hand, so it didn't take much. The gas didn't harm the paint marks. It was actually the brake cleaner I used as a final wash that dissolved them. I will use the "purple stuff" to clean more delicate parts.

For your viewing pleasure I've included some before and after undercarriage part pics. All of these parts were originally dipped in black paint. I blasted them with very fine media (plenty of experience in this department) to keep the surface texture close to original but removing all surface rust and giving the paint something to hang on to. I used Kirker two part epoxy primer (black) -- great stuff and reasonably priced. Later I'll finish coat them in the correct sheen of black. Epoxy primer is heat resistant and can be used on engine blocks as well. It also holds up to the elements much better than etching primer and lacquer based primers, which are porous, and will allow rust to form. We've all seen that look -- grey primered cars driving around with a rust patina forming.

By the way, I'm Harold -- total Dutch ancestry with an uncommon British name. Thanks Mom and Dad. I guess I could have been Hans.

Pic #4 why are the muffler hangers marked "DS and PS" . MIne had no markings and are identical in every way, including the tab part that clamps the muffler.? Just wondering... Thanks, Bruce

[bossbirdta]

Originally Posted by Formulabruce

Pic #4 why are the muffler hangers marked "DS and PS" . MIne had no markings and are identical in every way, including the tab part that clamps the muffler.? Just wondering... Thanks, Bruce

Drivers Side and Passenger Side????

i'm guessing someone labelled them to help ID them for reassembly?????

[FunctionalShaker]

Boss, you are correct. I marked them as I disassembled them, before making sure they were the same.

Norwood: Diff. cover RAW? as in meat? LOL. I didn't think black painted would be correct. For 69, yes. Natural steel seems to be the way to go.

450 views so far, 16 comments. Anyone else have their two cents worth on resto. colors for 70?

[Pepi]

Originally Posted by FunctionalShaker

Came across a suspension pic on ebay that shows these labels to have an AD and numbers beneath (see #12). They are available on the decal sheets often sold on Ebay.

In researching for my 70s, I've put myself to the fun task of narrowing down correct finishes for the various parts. This has been discussed many times here on the forum and, unfortunately, there are still some areas where people disagree. Even comparing the work of reputable resto. shops shows differences.

I will go with what the majority concedes to, unless I have proof of otherwise.

Case in point: Most agree that the tips of the control arms were not painted, yet those I just removed and cleaned were completely coated in original black paint, except for the ball joints themselves (see #1). Is there a difference between Norwood and Van Nuys built cars/suppliers?

It appears the ball joints had natural steel attachment plates.

What is the concensus as to proper coating for tie rod ends, sleeves and clamps? Others have said; natural steel, manganese oxide, zinc oxide and black paint. How about the center link?

Pitman arm - cast iron

Alternator fans are silver cad. How about the pulley?

Choke preheater coil box - silver cad then engine color?

Brake calipers, cast iron sounds right to me, but some say black paint.

Diff. cover - Gloss black (60%).

Brake backing plates - semi gloss black (30%).

Leaf springs - Natural steel, but I took a set apart and found what looks like black paint hidden beneath.

Drums - cast iron or phosphate?

Hood springs - phosphate, black paint? I have an NOS pair that are natural steel coated in rust preventative.

The aforementioned are my questionables. Any input regarding is appreciated. Other than that I have a pretty concise list.

How's that book coming, Mr. Oxley?

Anyone have a spare NOS control arm bushing, part #3984541?
I also need a couple of 392826 bushings and four 3975588s. PM me if you can help me out with any of these.

On my 73, the original (untouched) alternator pulley is silver cad, along with the fan.

And I know what you mean with differences of opinions, my throttle cable bracket with TCS solenoid was told it is supposed to be silver cad also, but the original IS gold cad. When I removed it, the underside of the throttle bracket, and where the TCS bracket mounted to the throttle bracket, was definately not silver on either of the two pieces.

[keith k]

Originally Posted by FunctionalShaker

Came across a suspension pic on ebay that shows these labels to have an AD and numbers beneath (see #12). They are available on the decal sheets often sold on Ebay.

In researching for my 70s, I've put myself to the fun task of narrowing down correct finishes for the various parts. This has been discussed many times here on the forum and, unfortunately, there are still some areas where people disagree. Even comparing the work of reputable resto. shops shows differences.

I will go with what the majority concedes to, unless I have proof of otherwise.

I think the difference of opinion for some of these bits is driven by the simple fact that they truly weren't all the same. I've looked at hundreds of these cars over the last ~15 years, and I've actually stopped sweating this stuff because I've seen enough variations to feel that there frequently is no "right".

It seems to me that for many of these Chassis and underhood parts, GM drawings gave a corrosion resistance specification, and did not dictate exactly what coating or plating a supplier had to use to achieve that performance. So they vary from supplier to supplier, and probably even from production week to production week.

Heck, Norwood dipped the cars in red oxide e-coat, and Van Nuys just painted the bottom black.... and we think GM was particular about tiny parts?

Originally Posted by FunctionalShaker

Case in point: Most agree that the tips of the control arms were not painted, yet those I just removed and cleaned were completely coated in original black paint, except for the ball joints themselves (see #1). Is there a difference between Norwood and Van Nuys built cars/suppliers?

It appears the ball joints had natural steel attachment plates.

What is the concensus as to proper coating for tie rod ends, sleeves and clamps? Others have said; natural steel, manganese oxide, zinc oxide and black paint. How about the center link?

Pitman arm - cast iron

Alternator fans are silver cad. How about the pulley?

Choke preheater coil box - silver cad then engine color?

Brake calipers, cast iron sounds right to me, but some say black paint.

Diff. cover - Gloss black (60%).

Brake backing plates - semi gloss black (30%).

Leaf springs - Natural steel, but I took a set apart and found what looks like black paint hidden beneath.

Drums - cast iron or phosphate?

Hood springs - phosphate, black paint? I have an NOS pair that are natural steel coated in rust preventative.

The aforementioned are my questionables. Any input regarding is appreciated. Other than that I have a pretty concise list.

How's that book coming, Mr. Oxley?

Anyone have a spare NOS control arm bushing, part #3984541?
I also need a couple of 392826 bushings and four 3975588s. PM me if you can help me out with any of these.

My observations:

Control arms and whether the outer tips were coated or not.... most of the ones I've seen are fully covered. Some are bare at the tip. That was no doubt to reduce how often the coating facility needed to strip the paint off their dipping racks. Maybe when they got really busy and didn't have time for such maintenance, they didn't fully dip them. Or maybe people occasionally got lazy. Who knows...

Pitman arm: Natural

Steering linkage: All natural, except tie rod clamps which were black phosphated

Alternator pulley: Black

Choke coil box: I don't think these were on when the engine was painted, so just silver zinc

Brake Calipers: Natural

Diff Cover: I've seen some that were definitely 100% natural, and some with a quickie/partial coat of black paint. In '70, they mostly seemed to have been natural.

Brake Backing Plates: The fronts are silver zinc, the rears are natural.

Leaf Springs: Natural. The oil bath quenching process used on springs will sometimes leave them with what appears to be a dark coating, though.

Drums: Natural

Hood Springs: They got the same coating as the rest of the hinge. Some cars have grey phosphate, some cars clearly have black painted/coated hinges.

[Tunas73TA]

Since we are splitting hairs..
How about the sway bar(s) and attaching hardware
Ive seen some black, some cast gray (natural), and even gold/cadmium looking for my 73.
Any guidelines?