[gtome]

Ok today I decided, because I had nothing to do, to start my cam swap. So I began taking radiator and accessory brackets off. Didnt go too far because it was getting late and im doing the swap in the parking lot at my condo complex. I was just thinking and decided to run out just before dark to see if I could get the dampener off with a breaker bar. As expected....no way. So does anyone have a good idea on how to hold the dampner/pulley while you turn the bolt loose? I dont have air here....and no electric impact gun. So its gunna have to be old school. Tips please.

[BVR421]

get 6ft of rope just small enough to fit in a sparkplug hole. Tie a BIG round knot on one end and thread the other end of the rope into the cylinder. With the breaker bar roll the piston up gently until the rope now prevents it from going all the way up. Break the damper bolt loose. Roll piston back down a 1/2" if you can before pulling rope out
Better have a plausible story for the condo manager when he wants to know why you are violating the -no working on cars- rule in the condo contract,
The old Indian rope trick is easy and works every time.

BTW I see a horror fright impact on sale for about 20 bucks often. Also they have a 25% off coupon for today only. Both 12v and 120v guns.

[mkpontiac]

I drilled two holes in a piece of angle iron that aligned with holes on the dampener and bolted it up with the pulley bolts. The length of the angle iron was long enough that the other end contacted the driveway. Mount it so it prevents rotation while breaking the bolts loose.
I am sure there are other ways but this works and is relatively easy to make.

[Squidward]

Even easier... I got it from someone here at PY.

Get a set of strong vise grips and get a good lock on the flywheel. When you go to loosen the hub bolt, the vise grips will butt up against the block/tranny and hold the crank from rotating.

Just be sure to put the grips in a place where it won't dork anything up - like starter, flywheel teeth, etc.

[gtome]

All good options! Im sure one of them will do the trick for me! Hehe!! The complex manager is also a sherriff....but for some reason he likes me. When I first moved here....3 days later we got a letter stating that my car was too loud and they were going to tow it. And he continuously was chalking my tires to see if I was moving it (didnt drive it a whole lot). I have no idea what happened....but he is my pal now?? Plus I am putting all the parts in the trunk and not making a big mess. Im am more worried about the 20 min break-in at 2000 rpm in a loud ass car. There is gunna be some mad mofo's. Gunna do it on a Monday afternoon to minimize neighborly damage!!

[Greg Reid]

I almost hate to say this because it sounds kinda ghetto... but I've done the old 'breaker bar against the ground' thing before. Put the socket and breaker bar on the crank bolt and turn it until the handle is against the ground. Bump the starter. It'll break the bolt loose.
Make sure you're aware of direction of rotation.

[gtome]

Somehow, I have the feeling I would break something doing that!!

[gtome]

Ok so no problem, got the balancer off, water pump/chain cover off. But there is something that I guess im not sure of. I need to put my dial indicator in the #1 intake pushrod hole to set the centerline. But in the #1 bank...im not sure which one is the intake (left one or right one from facing the drivers side?)? Also, when doing this....does the intake manifold have to come off, or can I just pull the one valve cover? Im doing this in the car...and again...in a parking lot. So the less I have to take off the better.

[Greg Reid]

Since you're changing the cam, pull the intake and valley pan. Put your dial indicator right on the lifter. Use the edge of the lifter so the dial indicator will have a solid foundation to sit on. I had to make an extension for my indicator. Not an easy flat surface to sit the indicator base on when the heads are in place.
The #1 exhaust valve is the one that's in line with the exhaust outlet on the head....so that means that the other one is the intake. That would be connected to the #1 intake lifter. I believe it's the second one from the front but I'm going from memory.

[gtome]

I made an extention for mine too....but wont the hyd lifter bleed and mess up my reading? Or is the indicator not enough pressure to push it down?

[grivera]

Originally Posted by gtome

I made an extention for mine too....but wont the hyd lifter bleed and mess up my reading? Or is the indicator not enough pressure to push it down?

To be safe, some folks gut an old lifter and fill it with washers or aluminum foil to make it into a solid for this purpose. Then you can put the tip of the dial indicator in the lifter cup and don't have to worry about it moving. The lifter cup can be inverted for easier placement of the dial indicator's tip. Otherwise, you can try to use the edge of the lifter body. Keep the angles to a minimum so your measurements aren't skewed.

[gtome]

Hummmm! Was just thinking it may have been a little tough to get the new cam in without taking the intake off and the lifters as well....!! I dont have a spare lifter...and dont want to tear into my good ones. Maybe my extention will be long enough to get all the way down to the cam?? Lets hope!!

[PLAY400]

Originally Posted by Greg Reid

I almost hate to say this because it sounds kinda ghetto... but I've done the old 'breaker bar against the ground' thing before. Put the socket and breaker bar on the crank bolt and turn it until the handle is against the ground. Bump the starter. It'll break the bolt loose.
Make sure you're aware of direction of rotation.

I use my impact gun or the above method if without power or air or if it's too dam tight. Lots of power in that starter!! No damage so far

[gtome]

Well....I just put the bolts from the pulley back in it, and used a big ass screwdriver to hold the balancer still while I cranked the big bolt loose. Wasnt too hard. In fact I had more trouble getting the balancer off than the bolt. But I have bigger problems now!!

Im no expert...but im guessing the lifter isnt supposed to be concave??!! This is #7 intake

[Murf'sDad]

Yup, what you got yourself there is a FUBAR'd cam. You have my condolences.

Stewart

[gtome]

Well.... I figured as much with my loss of power after the rebuild. I re-used my cam and lifters after reading all the horror storys on my recent rebuild, but it turnes out if you crank the rockers down 4 times as far as you need to....it can damage an already broken in cam??!! I already got a new cam ready here (60919)...but planned on re-using my Rhodes original lifter. Since that wont be happening.....what are your suggestions on new lifters? This is a street car only. New original Rhodes... V-max super lube....others??

Specs:
455 .30 over (fresh)
#96 mild home port heads
60919 cam
1.65 HS roller rockers
Edel intake
3310 carb
4 tube headers
T-350 auto
stock (for now) converter
3:42 posi

[grivera]

Damn, sorry to hear that. I assume you know that after that much metal has gone through your engine, a teardown and cleaning is highly recommended. These are some of the available lifters:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-852-16/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MEL-JB-951/

[gtome]

Do you think the Rhodes are a better option with a RAIV cam and 1.65 rockers? I had/have them in this engine and they were great before the last rebuild. This thing was a monster before the rebuild.

[Matt Meaney]

it's almost a good thing that your lifter was ruined, because putting used lifters on a new cam is certian death to the new cam. once a lifter is "worn in" to a cam it can only be used on that cam and that exact lobe too.

you CAN put new lifters on a used cam.

you CAN'T put used lifters on a new cam.

i used Rhodes lifters on my 455 RA IV cam combo and loved it. my vote is for the rhodes, good quality lifter.

going off topic a bit, how much did you elongate the push rod holes to accomidate the HS 1.65 rockers? from what i've read on here, they actually are closer to a 1.72 ratio and require a little more grinding of the heads. any chance of posting a pic if not too much trouble? thanks.

[gtome]

I will post a pic (have to take one tomorrow during the day), but by my eye...you really cant tell. Mine was done when I got it so i dont know how much was taken out exactly.

So who is running the V-max? I dont mind the little extra cost if they are a better lifter. And really at this point, I dont think it would be any harder to set those valves than the others. I think I want Rhodes again, and Super Lube for sure. Now the question will be the original style, or the V-max?

Thanks for the heads up!! I didnt know you couldnt use old lifters on a new cam!! Really....im kind of stoked that the cam was funked... that explaines the lack of performance. I was at a total loss as to what it could be till I saw this!