Suspension TECH Including Brakes, Wheels and tires

          
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Old 11-28-2011, 07:34 PM
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Default Brakes won't bleed

1968 Firebird. I had a master cylinder with a slight leak running down the booster. Bought a Raybestos replacement. Bench bled it and installed. Now I can't get the air of the brakes system. Every pump shoots 1/2 air and 1/2 fluid on every wheel. I am using speed bleeders with the check valve and sealant on the threads. I have pumped gallons of fluid through the system. What am I doing wrong?

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Old 11-28-2011, 08:03 PM
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U PROBANLY HAVE AN AIR LEAK SOME WHERE, HAD THE SAME PROBLEM WITH A 67 BIRD...IT WAS A LEAK. FIX IT AND BLED THE BRAKES AFTER FINE

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Old 11-28-2011, 08:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gopogo View Post
1968 Firebird. I had a master cylinder with a slight leak running down the booster. Bought a Raybestos replacement. Bench bled it and installed. Now I can't get the air of the brakes system. Every pump shoots 1/2 air and 1/2 fluid on every wheel. I am using speed bleeders with the check valve and sealant on the threads. I have pumped gallons of fluid through the system. What am I doing wrong?

I agree your sucking air into the system somewhere, could even be a bad new part sucking air past the seals on the spool. If it's a reman it's even a better chance that it's defective.

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Old 11-30-2011, 01:54 AM
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screw speed bleeders - try this:



Harbor Fright has them for 25 bucks. Hook up your compressor, have your kid watch the master fluid level and let fly. I have an extra bleeder hollowed out for use with this so no air is sucked around the threads.

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Old 11-30-2011, 11:40 AM
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I can tell you when I bench bleed my Strange MC it took forever to get all the air out of it. I thought I had it all out then 3 more pumps and it would have some mor ecome out.

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Old 11-30-2011, 11:49 AM
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Make sure when you bleed you're not running the master cylinder too low and sucking air. Someone should be with you keeping an eye on it and adding more fluid as the brakes are pumped. Sounds obvious, but only after it happens to you.

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Old 12-01-2011, 08:32 AM
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Thanks for all the tips. Ordered a new master cylinder with fingers crossed. Looks like a trip to Harbor Freight this weekend.

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Old 12-01-2011, 09:12 AM
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You can make a trip to harbor freight if you want, but gravity will have the job done in no time at all and you don't need 2 people to do it. Over 40 years of twisting wrenches and I have never used any bleeding aids other than gravity and if another person was available I sometimes have had them pump a system, usually I used gravity bleeding almost exclusively. You can decide for yourself, but old fashioned physics works as well as any fancy bleeding equipment.

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Old 12-01-2011, 09:58 AM
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Brad; describe you're gravity technique, as i'm always doing this alone.
i have an old mighty vac, that is a manual pump that you pump under the car; i use that but gravity sounds good; i can do something else while i'm waiting.

do you just leave the bleeder open, w/ a pan under it?
or do you close the bleeders and let the bubbles rise?

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Old 12-01-2011, 10:09 AM
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I rate this technique above ALL others.

http://arkansaspontiacs.org/techstor...37;20story.htm

Have used my homemade one for close to 25-30 years. When no other method worked, this one always did, because of the low pressure softly "pushing" the bubbles from the high spots in the lines, I surmise. Below is mine, I hook it up to the compressed air in the shop through a regulator set at 15 PSI.

I don't have the problem of leaking fluid with mine like this guy had. All I do is bleed one wheel at a time, check the level of the master before doing the next wheel. Ten to fifteen minutes and I'm done. Of course, bench bleeding the master is a prerequisite.

Charles
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  #11  
Old 12-01-2011, 10:12 AM
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It's fairly easy, just open the bleeders and let them feed fluid until there is no air coming out the screws. I tighten them and let the system set about a minute or two and just re-open them to make sure all the air is out and no bubbles are coming through, tighten them up and your done. Also sometimes I just bump the brake pedal just barely stroking it maybe an inch at the top of the travel to get the siphon started but most systems will start just by filling the reservoir.

If you still do not have a pedal that is firm bumping the pedal while watching for bubbles coming up in the reservoir will tell you if there is any air left. Frequently just bumping the master cylinder will float out anything that could still remain.

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1984 Grand Prix

100% Pontiacs in my driveway!!! What's in your driveway?

If you don't take some of the RACETRACK home with you, Ya got cheated


Last edited by Sirrotica; 12-01-2011 at 10:35 AM.
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