[torqhead]

Anyone convert a 68 or 69 using the repopped hideaway assemblies. My body shop guy went to install the nose with everything assembled and discovered the drivers side was 3/8 too deep which wouldn't allow the nose to be installed. The assembly hits the radiator support.

They compared the drivers side to the passenger side one and I've added two pics to show the difference.

[PaulatFast]

Haven't use the repop's but... IT'S ONLY METAL!

That sure wouldn't stop me from quickly dicing and slicing as needed to get them to fit. Another repop would likely be shaped the same. The core support can be shifted rearward a bit as well.

[vanmor]

Trust Me. You don't want to deal with the "hideaway headlights". There are a lot of expensive pieces and then it still doesn't work well.

I have all the old pieces to mine, but I'm going to mod it for an electric conversion.

If I was doing a total restoration or money was no object, then maybe.

I have a new core support that I'm going to put on this week. I hope I don't have issues with it. Starting to wonder if I should have just patched up my other one.

[PaulatFast]

Couldn't disagree more!

I love the simple factory hideaway setup.

Easy to work on, straight forward engineering.

[vanmor]

Paul, I imagine you are one of those people who actually undrerstand how they work. I didn't for a long time. After some extensive reading and studying of my old parts, I get it.

However, if you had no experience or knowledge of that setup and were going to try and convert to it, (especially with older parts) it would be a possible nightmare.

Overall, if your regular exposed headlight system won't fit right. The "hideaways" won't either.

A few people have had success with the Fiero or newer Firebird electric headlight motors and control. I'm going that route.

I do respect people trying to keep their cars as stock as possible. It's better for the car that way. Both in function (if it's right) and value.

Besides, don't those hideways look cool ? Heck yeah they do !

[GoatDr]

I think I just saw an ad in a magazine for a complete electrical setup for the hidden headlights, about $900.

[Held for Ransom]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=190630566143

[GTO JOHN]

Wow $1,000 for the conversion kit? I'd figure out the vacuum system before popping for that.

[paint guy]

The kit looks well made, but you can by linear actuators or fiero motors, relays, and make some brackets for about $100 or less. I have less than that in mine using 1 actuator, some threaded rod, and a couple of relays.

[iceman411]

The original parts set-up is actually pretty simple. Look at the factory diagrams. Even in some catalog diagrams, it shows all the parts you need. I used original doors and some brackets. I converted mine about 6 or 7 years ago when the 'W' brackets got repopped. I bought repop actuators and coffee can and it took a full day to install. It was straight forward and pretty self explanatory. I can't remember how many feet of vacuum line I bought at NAPA but 25 ft is a good place to start. If you look at the set-up and get the parts in a week(for your first time) and try to install it, well, you may get hung up. I took my time and chewed on it when I could and when it came down to doing the job, it all kinda fell into place. I keep in mind that everyday, actual people who may have lived next door put these cars together on the lines when they were new. What part is it that you can't figure out in a reasonable amount of time? If you put your mind to it, there's NOTHING you can't do to these cars of this era... Mike

[PaulatFast]

Top Ten list of Hideaway issues...
10)Parts missing or damaged.
9) Bushings so bad the system binds.
8) Bad switch.
7) Vacume line pinched at core support / valance / fenderwell.
6) Vacume lines at actuators hooked up wrong.
5) Switch hooked up wrong.
4) Not understanding the seal you can see on the actuators is the DUST cover.
3) Vacume actuator(s) seals bad or out of the hole(s).
2) Assuming the NEW actuators seals are, or will stay, in place.
1) Not understanding the springs hold the doors up, not vacume.

This is a very simple system when time is taken and logic applied. I don't care who I offend when I say this. I SEE NO REASON TO ADD WIRES, SWITCHES, ACTUATORS, BLAH, BLAH, BLAH. If you can figure out how to do it wrong (electric crap that doesn't belong and isn't needed), you sure as heck could have figured out how to do it right!

As for the looks, it's a personal preference thing, to me, it absolutely makes the cars!

[paint guy]

Certainly no offense taken by me. And I agree it is a very simple system. If I cared about originality I would have re-installed mine (I have all the parts). But I think there is a reason why the headlight system used on TAs, Fieros and Corvettes are electric. Maybe cost (but I doubt this) or maybe durability (I find this easier to accept.) I'm not seeing too many cars with vacuum windsheild wipers these days, either. In my mind, not much different than painting an "original" car with lacquer as applied from the factory vs BC/CC. Certainly is more original, some people can see the difference as compared to modern finishes, it is still available, but why would you use it when you know it is higher maintenance and won't last as long? I have the utmost respect for restorers who can closely approximate factory assembly and methods. But I have the same degree (if not more) to street-rodders and custom guys who "think out of the box", and look at an older car as a starting point for them to engineer their personal car, much like an artist who starts with a blank canvas and turns out a painting.

[vanmor]

Wow ! $1000 bucks is a lot of money for an electric conversion. It looks nice though.

Electric stuff may be "crap" to some but the vacuum system I have now is really crap. That stuff is all rotted out and I ain't gonna drop the bucks to replace that stuff. I made inquiries to some of the sellers and they told me that the new actuators may leak a little. I'm not paying top dollar for something that leaks.

I can go to the junk yard and get what I need to convert to electric for $75 to $100.

I have no issue with someone who wants to use the stock vacuum system. But I don't think there is anything wrong with an electric conversion either. I think it's up to the owner to do what they want to do. It's their car.

This is one that turned out nice:

http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...7649437186754#

[PaulatFast]

Originally Posted by vanmor

I think it's up to the owner to do what they want to do. It's their car.

This is one that turned out nice:

http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...7649437186754#

I agree, it's up to the owner. And anyone seeing the video you posted would pass on that teeth rattling, nose jarring, parts splitting conversion in that video if they have any sense! lol!

[PaulatFast]

Paint Guy, I agree completely. IF the modification is done right and is an upgrade. From what I have seen in person, usually these conversions are not either an improvement, or well done. The video above clearly shows the nose being abused by that set-up. It is not prettier in person, trust me. Just looked like an easy way out. I am not one to put down an upgrade. My cars are all modified in some way. As are the cars we build. If a customer ever asks me to install an electric conversion I gladly will do so. It won't function at all like the system in the video. I actually did have a customer ask about an electric conversion out of desparation because his system had been looked by several other shops and kept failing... I fixed his system instead, that was 2009, still works like new.

[torqhead]

Originally Posted by PaulatFast

Paint Guy, I agree completely. IF the modification is done right and is an upgrade. From what I have seen in person, usually these conversions are not either an improvement, or well done. The video above clearly shows the nose being abused by that set-up. It is not prettier in person, trust me. Just looked like an easy way out. I am not one to put down an upgrade. My cars are all modified in some way. As are the cars we build. If a customer ever asks me to install an electric conversion I gladly will do so. It won't function at all like the system in the video. I actually did have a customer ask about an electric conversion out of desparation because his system had been looked by several other shops and kept failing... I fixed his system instead, that was 2009, still works like new.

I'm sorry I don't follow, why are you saying abused?

[PaulatFast]

Originally Posted by torqhead

I'm sorry I don't follow, why are you saying abused?

I went back and watched that video again, it's less violent than in person. The door on the drivers side slams up and down with enough force that the nose, and the whole front of the car, is jarred violently. I have seen other set-ups the same. The noise is scary.

I don't care what someone does with their car, to each their own. But don't show a video of a modified car I'm familiar with.. and not impressed by, and tell us it's a good option.

There are probably several good conversions out there. What many don't acknowledge is that the factory system is good as well, and should remain an option.