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Old 06-27-2012, 10:43 AM
grdn24 grdn24 is offline
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Default Stall speed recommendations

Ok, I'm in the process of finally putting this car back together and looking into torque converter stall speeds. I've got a 455 bored 30 over with comp cams p8 xe274h-10 grind number.
Gross valve lift- hyd .488 intake
.491 exhaust
Duration at .050 230 intake
236 exhaust
Lobe lift .3250 intake
.3270 exhaust
Lobe separation- 110.0

I was thinking 3000 stall range but would like opinions before I purchase.
Is anybody running this cam? If so, what length pushrods are you using and rocker ratio. I've yet to get that figured out either.

Thanks

  #2  
Old 06-27-2012, 11:07 AM
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Mikes455Wagon Mikes455Wagon is offline
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With that cam I was at a 2800 stall max, but a 3800 flash. Call Cliff and get him to order you a Continental unit that is made for "your" application. You won't be disappointed with the money spent!

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Old 06-27-2012, 12:32 PM
grdn24 grdn24 is offline
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So I should shoot for around 2800 to 3200?
What sort of price difference would I be looking at with the continental unit as opposed to one off the shelf for a street-strip application?

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Old 06-27-2012, 12:43 PM
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I think the conti was in the 600 range. I have about 800-900 in mine though since I tried the off the shelf ones to find out they didn't work worth a poo poo. The Conti in my car is loose in the right places but tight on top. It is also 100% streetable if I were to decide to take a trip to the local dairy queen. The sharp right hand turn burnouts don't work well with a spool though!

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Old 06-27-2012, 12:53 PM
grdn24 grdn24 is offline
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Ouch!
I've already got about 7000 in this engine tranny combo and still need rockers, push rods, intake, and carb. I was hoping to stay around the 300 range. I just want to drive this thing! It's been in the garage since about 2005-2006. I'm ready to play with it. Haha

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Old 06-27-2012, 12:56 PM
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Wow

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Old 06-27-2012, 12:56 PM
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Shove the stock one in it and get everything broke in and settled out. Then later on order a good converter. Use that 300 as a good start to the "converter fund!" And as always, have fun with it!

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Old 06-27-2012, 01:07 PM
grdn24 grdn24 is offline
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Well, I like your idea but I was told I might have issues with barking tires when putting it into gear or hammering into gear as the idle might be too high to keep it running with such a high lift cam. Idk? I put a lot of cash into machine work and rotating assembly. I'm sure as you all know, this poncho stuff gets pricey!
$750 for rods, $695 for pistons, 2 bolt to 4 bolt main conversion, ect, ect..
I'll prob buy something from jegs or summit that's street able and buy the other at a later date.

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Old 06-27-2012, 03:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grdn24 View Post
Well, I like your idea but I was told I might have issues with barking tires when putting it into gear or hammering into gear as the idle might be too high to keep it running with such a high lift cam. Idk? I put a lot of cash into machine work and rotating assembly. I'm sure as you all know, this poncho stuff gets pricey!
$750 for rods, $695 for pistons, 2 bolt to 4 bolt main conversion, ect, ect..
I'll prob buy something from jegs or summit that's street able and buy the other at a later date.
You shouldn't have any of the above problems...I really wouldn't skimp on the convertor a good convertor is a must.So what all was done to the engine and tranny for $7000?Who told you your idle would be too high??High lift has nothing to do with a high idle...I'm at .650 lift and idle at 850!

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Old 06-27-2012, 04:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikes455Wagon View Post
Shove the stock one in it and get everything broke in and settled out. Then later on order a good converter. Use that 300 as a good start to the "converter fund!" And as always, have fun with it!
Like whats been said, that cam should idle fine in a 455, just a slight rumble. It should NOT have any trouble being placed in gear. I vote for the stocker untill you know and can afford what you want.

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Old 06-27-2012, 04:17 PM
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might talk to Cliff about the 13" Continental instead of the 10" Continental recommended above. It sounds like your build would match up with it pretty well and it's less $$, should stall in the 2800+ range with a 455.

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Old 06-27-2012, 04:26 PM
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Hold out for a good converter! It makes or breaks a car with an automatic transmission.

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Old 06-27-2012, 04:39 PM
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X2
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Old 06-27-2012, 09:33 PM
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X3 on the Continental....BUT...call Kenny Ford at PTC and he will build you an excellent converter and stand behind it with quick service. Quite a bit cheaper. I have used them from high 11's to low 10's and have never had a problem with one.

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Old 06-27-2012, 10:15 PM
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Also very pleased with PTC converters; very good for the money.

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Old 06-27-2012, 10:44 PM
grdn24 grdn24 is offline
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Ok, thanks for the replies guys. I guess Ill roll the dice with the stock one at the moment. Does anybody know what this code means? BU3Mhp This is what is written on it in marker. I tried to research and found several BU3 but nothing that had the Mhp with it. I was trying to figure out the stall speed in my stocker but got nowhere really. And wait, heres the kicker, the three tapped pads to mount it to the flex plate are m10 metric bolts. This must be a post 1980 from what I can find online. Is this correct?

  #17  
Old 07-02-2012, 10:10 PM
grdn24 grdn24 is offline
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No recommendations on the pushrod length or rocker ratio with ported 6x heads and this cam setup?
Any help or info will greatly be appreciated. I put the stockers in there a few yrs ago and the pattern was close to center of the valve but a tiny bit off.

  #18  
Old 07-03-2012, 12:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grdn24 View Post
No recommendations on the pushrod length or rocker ratio with ported 6x heads and this cam setup?
Any help or info will greatly be appreciated. I put the stockers in there a few yrs ago and the pattern was close to center of the valve but a tiny bit off.
Rocker ratio pretty much depends on the total lift you want to attain. Pushrod length can't be recommended as each build - even with essentially the same parts - is unique. Buy an adjustable checking rod & lightweight checking spring and determine the proper length yourself. When you've checked it a couple of times and are comfortable with your readings ... check again. This is a critical part of your build!

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Old 07-03-2012, 01:35 PM
grdn24 grdn24 is offline
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Ok, so I would be ok with stock stuff or I need to go with something else? Not to sound like a complete idiot here but I thought if I put some pattern maker dye on the valve tip and got the rocker with the correct ratio to be pretty much centered through the entire lift and close of the valve I would be ok? Is this not the case? As long as there is no clearance issues with valve to piston. I really don't want to tear the heads back off of this thing. Is it possible to determine the right setup without pulling heads?
Thanks.
I know these questions probably sound elementary but it's been a while since I've messed with any of this due to kids, a layoff and other everyday stuff. I've finally got minimal time and some money to get this thing finished up.

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Old 07-15-2012, 01:03 PM
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Update, I went with a 3000 stall and 1.65 roller rockers with stock length pushrods. Engine and tranny finally on frame.

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