[First Bird]

Any advice for me? I have to go backwards on my project. I can't get the hood opening square as I reassemble my 1968 Firebird, even with the radiator support shifted all the way over. The driver side frame is ahead and the passenger side frame is behind the gage holes. Turns out I did not use the gage holes when I installed my subframe. I ONLY measured diagonals from the Fischer Manual.

I need to realign a subframe with welded subframe connectors. Here's my plan. What do you think?
1) Un-weld welded subframe connectors. Maybe borrow plasma cutter.
2) Leave front body work on. Loosen bolts at radiator support
3) Put jack stands under body rocker just below/behind firewall. Also put jack stands under rear axle.
4) Unbolt Exhaust From Headers
5) Remove Hood
6) Lift Engine just off the cradle
7) Loosen subframe bolts
8) Line up gage holes
9) Measure diagonals again, including diagonals of hood opening
10) Tighten subframe bolts.
11) Re-measure diagonals to make sure nothing shifted
12) Re-weld SFC's

Background info:
Before disassembly, a frame shop straightened the rear frame and measured the front subframe OK.
I reassembled car with solid subframe bushings and welded in DSE SFC's.
I installed the Engine/Trans/Exhaust.
Fender to door gaps are good.
In searching internet and PT forum I find people have removed the subframe entirely without removing front body work. So I figure I don't have to remove front body work to just loosen and shift the subframe.

[400 4spd.]

I just built a 69 Z-28 last week and needed to shift the sub-frame.

1. Yes, cut them loose.
2. Yes.
3. No, not under rockers. You don't want the front to sag, plus you may damage the rocker. Just put some 4x4's under the front tires and and block the rears from roling.
4. No, exhaust will be fine.
5. Leave hood on! That will help you determine how square the front is as you make changes.
6 Leave engine alone, no need to loosen mounts.
7. - 12. The rest sounds good.

[First Bird]

It's great to get advice from someone who just did this. Thanks!
The reason I consider lifting engine is this- when I installed the engine/trans/exhaust they were all shifted to the passenger side. I used a die grinder to extend holes for engine and trans mount. That should have tipped me off to frame misalignment but I was so damn sure I got it right.
Again, thanks.

[400 4spd.]

Well, in that case go ahead and break the bolts loose to aid in shifting. Nothing gained by lifting the engine, though.
And you are welcome. I hope it goes well.

[Dr.Corvette]

You say the engine is shifted to the passenger side. This is normal. Take a look a the pictures I have attached. The last 2 show the relationship of the exhaust manifold to the upper control arm shaft. See how it's much closer on the passenger side.
I am getting ready to shift the frame on my 67 soon. I plan on lifting the body by the rockers just enough to take some weight of the the frame. Use blocks of wood or some thing to spread the load so you won't dent the rockers. The trick is to just lift the body enough to move the frame. As you loosen the frame bolts the rear of the frame will want to fall down. Use a floor jack under the trans crossmember. You will have play with the body height and frame to you find the right balance.

[First Bird]

Thanks for those pictures. I'll use wood blocks, also will have a jack under the trans crossmember as you suggest. I will post back here when I get this done.