[PMD1969]

My 69FB Sprint distributor may need some freshening up. Nothing has been done to it for 25 years. It fires right up and seems to drive fine.

I know that a Pertronix Ign 2 is the way to go but I would also like to have the components to keep it original. I have found a list of points at NAPA but that's it. What about the springs and weights? Any need to replace them?

What else do I need to restore the distributor?

[Cammer-6]

you will see some wear on the weights as evidenced by rust/metal dust around them.
Look at the pivot pins and holes in weights to see if they are eggshaped. replace springs
if you can find the correct ones.clean and grease the advance plate and have a shop with a distributor tester check the advance curve and tweak to factory specs if needed.

[Jeff Hamlin]

But if you feel it’s needing a full overhaul check around your area and see if you can locate a shop that offers the service.

I'm fortunate enough to have access to a SUN tester if needed as well as a local speed shop that offers the rebuild service for around 100$

[Cammer-6]

ha brings back memories of sending my Mallory dual point out to have the points phased properly. Ill bet no one knows how to do that today.Still have that distributor too.

[giddygoat]

A good indicator on shaft and bushing wear is a dwell meter, if you watch it while changing engine speed you should not see a change in the dwell, if there is, there is wear and it should be corrected. I remember back when there were a few dual point cars around, most of the old time mechanics at the time didn't have much good to say about them....thinking the benifit was not worth the hassle on a street car.

[PMD1969]

Originally Posted by Cammer-6

you will see some wear on the weights as evidenced by rust/metal dust around them.
Look at the pivot pins and holes in weights to see if they are eggshaped. replace springs
if you can find the correct ones.clean and grease the advance plate and have a shop with a distributor tester check the advance curve and tweak to factory specs if needed.

I have checked the weights and spring and there is no rust and the weights are not worn or eggshaped. I went looking for springs and keep finding "kits" that have typically three sets of springs in them. Can I assume that I will simply match the correct size of these springs to the OE ones or are they going to be the same size with a different spring rate?

[Jeff Hamlin]

yes each set will/should be a diff rate.

[Cammer-6]

this is why you need a machine to spin it up and set the timing curves to OEM.
Its not beyond to stretch or trim a spring to get the right rate.