[charles bledsoe]

Ok, I just spent the last few hours removing/disconnecting everything needed to remove the engine. The transmission is already removed. I am wanting to replace the oil pump and was thinking about doing it with the engine in the car. I don't see how the oil pump can be replaced with the engine in the vehicle as the procedures in the service manual states, so I will be removing the engine. I still have 2 things left to do. One is the power steering pump. Should I leave the hoses hooked up and move it to the side, or disconnect the hoses and remove the pump? The other think scares me...removing the hood. How do I make sure I get it back on correctly? Do I scribe a mark, use tape, other? I would like to remove the hinges, bead blast them, paint and reinstall while the hood is off. Wouldn't one want to paint over a scratched line and if you do, can you see the mark thru the paint when putting the hood/hinges back on. Any and all help is much appreciated.
Thanks.

[78w72]

you can do the pump in the car if you can lift the engine up a bit to clear removal of the pan. if you can get the pan off comfortably, the pump is just 2 bolts & will come right off. but out of the car ensures a better pan reainstall/seal. also look into the pan gasket issues on this forum. i suggest using the cork rear gasket instead of the rubber one, the rubber has a huge chance of leaking.

for the p/s pump, its easiest to leave it hooked up & swing it out of the way, piece of bailing wire or string will hold it off to the side. avoids fluid mess & having to bleed the system when hooked back up.

as for the hood, its easy to scribe a line, should be visible after painting. some guys drill a small 1/8" hole through the hinge & into the hood, then its easy to realign without visibly finding your scribed line. BUT, if you remove the hinges from the fenders the adjustment is harder to get back to correct since they move up & down in 2 spots (at each bolt) much harder to get that back into position, probably best to use masking tape on the fender for that to get it back close to where it was.

hope that helps

[RamAirIV28]

the devil is in the details

lifting the motor high enough to remove the pan to gain access to the pump is 90% of the problem,

but

installing the pump is a PITA. you must engage that intermediate shaft between the distributor and the pump. If you get it wrong it all has to come back out and apart to do over plus now you must locate a new shaft because when you turn over the engine for the first time the starter has enough torque to twist and bend the intermediate shaft.

I did this twice to an engine and screwed it up both times, third time and forever after that I simply removed the engine and did it right ever since.

also pull the distributor to observe and ensure it comes up through the hole .

[Ollie]

Hood removal and reinstall.
Drill a 1/4 inch hole in the hood hinge into the hood bracing.
When reinstalling the hood insert a 1/4 inch drill into the holes to line hood and hinge
as the bolts are tightened.

[steve25]

Give yourself enough time to do this right whatever you do.
What I mean by this is you should check some of the rod and and main bearings first while you are under the motor.
Do a search for failed bearing and print off the pictures so you can with ease compare any bearing problems you might have with the photo's.
Of MOST importance is to look at the back of the bearings for the numbers that are stamped in them.
These numbers will transfer into the rod or main bearing bore clearly if alll is well with the roundness of the bore, if they look smeared and non clear than the bearing is moving in its bore and is getting ready to spin.
At this point it makes no logic to put a new oil pump in the motor, if you do and drive the car be sure to bring along a bag of kitty litter a large empty crate with you when you drive it so you can pick up the motors internals that will litter the road side sooner or latter!

[2002Z4CSS]

I would unbolt the pump from the engine and get a bungee cord to hold it. Some people drill a small 1/8" holes in the hood hinge. Then all you need to do is line up the holes you drilled and bolt it up.

[gtofreek]

Originally Posted by steve25

Give yourself enough time to do this right whatever you do.
What I mean by this is you should check some of the rod and and main bearings first while you are under the motor.
Do a search for failed bearing and print off the pictures so you can with ease compare any bearing problems you might have with the photo's.
Of MOST importance is to look at the back of the bearings for the numbers that are stamped in them.
These numbers will transfer into the rod or main bearing bore clearly if alll is well with the roundness of the bore, if they look smeared and non clear than the bearing is moving in its bore and is getting ready to spin.
At this point it makes no logic to put a new oil pump in the motor, if you do and drive the car be sure to bring along a bag of kitty litter a large empty crate with you when you drive it so you can pick up the motors internals that will litter the road side sooner or latter!

Nothing like positive thinking, hunh Steve!

[1969GTO]

On my 69 GTO for the ps pump....remove the battery,unbolt ps pump and it will swing over and sit whare the battery did out of the way nice.

[steve25]

I have seen two big block Chevys die from this.
Each owner spent the better part of whole weekend replacing the pump and in each motor then within 3 rev thru the gears full throttle sessions it was rod out the block time!
One guy took out a telephone pole when he drove over his own oil, totaled the car and then also had to pay the utility company for taking out the darn pole!

[tpssonic]

%^$#@$% Chevys...

[Blued and Painted]

There should be enough witness/washer marks on the hood hinge to re-align the hood on assembly.

[leeklm]

another little trick for the hood... prior to removal, use self tapping screws to attach a small piece of 1/8" thick steel or a piece of aluminum angle to the hood brace, butted up to the top side of hinge. This helps for alignment, and gives you a little something to rest the hood on while lining it up on the hinge. Combine this with the small alignment hole drilled through the hinge and it will almost install itself!

[Pontirag]

Originally Posted by steve25

I have seen two big block Chevys die from this.
Each owner spent the better part of whole weekend replacing the pump and in each motor then within 3 rev thru the gears full throttle sessions it was rod out the block time!
One guy took out a telephone pole when he drove over his own oil, totaled the car and then also had to pay the utility company for taking out the darn pole!

so..... it would be fair to say he got the pole position?

arg arg arg!

[tom s]

We drill a small 1/8th in hole between the two hood bolts.Use a bit to line it up,works everytime.Tom

[lust4speed]

Big cars aren't too bad removing the pan, but you still get the enjoyment of the oil dripping down on you while you work. As far as removing the pan in a GTO - everyone should do it at least once. If you do it a second time you just really are a glutton for punishment.