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#1
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Changing rubber fuel line to carb
One of my cars has an edelbrock squarebore carb on it (2 bbl from factory). The original metal fuel line was cut and a rubber fuel line hose clamped to this metal line (at about the thermostat housing) and it feeds the carb. The carb has a 3/8 stub that the fuel line hose is hose clamped to. I don't like the idea of rubber fuel line (I check the line weekly when driven) and I've tried to get a premade line from inline tube but not made.
What have others who run the edelbrock carb do for fuel line from pump to carb.? Looks like the inlet to carb. (with 3/8 stub) might unscrew leaving threads. Edelbrock does sell this http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ed...odel/performer but I'm not sure what would fit the filter end (threadwise). I thought I might bend up some steel 3/8" fuel line and can double flare it at the pump end but not sure what would fit into the carb. end to accept a double flare fitting. AN fittings are a total mystery to me so I haven't really thought too much about using them. Thanks.
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1968 LeMans conv. 350 HO - 4 speed triple white (hear it idle here) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eVmq...ature=youtu.be 1968 LeMans conv. 350 - 4 speed Solar red/pearl Last edited by nytrainer; 05-14-2014 at 03:23 PM. Reason: link |
#2
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The angle and length of the fuel line is correct to get the solid fuel line from the rear fitting of the carb, under the choke, and out in front of the 4-barrel carb. Are you saying that the engine originally had a 2-barrel on it, but now has a 4-barrel AFB clone? If so, then this piece will work good.
AN fittings have a 37° flair and not the normal household/automotive 45° flair so you can't mix and match. Just wanted to point that out in case you decide to get deeper into plumbing things with the AN hardware. I did a quick check of Summit, and really didn't see anything better than the one you mentioned. So I would be inclined to go with the Edelbrock piece. "If" you had the proper flaring tool for AN fittings it would be easy to add the correct end on the tubing and you would be done. Also, AN fittings are not normally double flared, but do involve an extra item in the assembly. Basically you have the tubing, the flare nut, and you also have a sleeve that fits between the nut and the tubing. Roughly speaking, 6AN is equivalent to 3/8" tubing. The AN sizing simply takes a standard that has 16 on the bottom of the fraction. So 6 AN is 6/16 which reduces down to 3/8" -- and tubing is measured by its O.D. Steel is probably the best material, but I've used nothing but aluminum tubing and some of my old installs are over 20 years old without any problems. Since the flare tool is somewhat expensive, I'd probably be inclined to find a shop that could fab up a one piece line from fuel pump to the new end.
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Mick Batson 1967 original owner Tyro Blue/black top 4-speed HO GTO with all the original parts stored safely away -- 1965 2+2 survivor AC auto -- 1965 Catalina Safari Wagon. Last edited by lust4speed; 05-15-2014 at 01:21 AM. |
#3
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any good aircraft mechanic can bend up some aluminum tubbing .
if you order an 8 foot length from Aircraft spruce and specialty you can practice bending and routing it until it looks as good as any factory job and still have plenty left over. get the soft stuff and single flair it. if you get the hardened stuf it will never flair properly new rubber feul lines should never sit on the shelf longer than 2 years and should always be replaced every 2 years, regardless of ant wives tales or good luck |
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