[jetallman]

I've painted all my suspension parts and now thinking maybe it would be best to powder coat all of it. I have a local guy that would make me a deal for all my powder coating, subframe, control arms, and a ton of small parts, is it worth the trouble or would paint last on a driven car

[rexs73gto]

Paint really only lasts if you don't drive the car, powder coating is the way to go if you don't have a trailer queen.

[67blackcherry]

I achieved good results with a rattle can & good paint sprayer but as mentioned above, powdercoating is really the way to go especially on a car that's driven.

[nytrainer]

IMO powder coating can/will chip up on a street driven car and then a PITA to touch up and will never look as good. If you are going after black then I would suggest black epoxy primer. Looks great, super chip/gas/oil/brake fluid resistance and easy to touch up areas. I use SPI black epoxy primer on anything under hood or under car...

[bankbook]

I have powder coated two of my TA's so far. The oldest being 20 years and the stuff looks and wears great.

[DOC]

Paint scratches very easy... Powder coat and you can clean with windex and a paper towel forever... No poiish or waxing needed for a deep shine.

[paint guy]

Pros and cons to each type of coating. As mentioned above, touch up is much easier with paint. While some paints may scratch , abrasion and mar resistance is a function of the paint chemistry formulation and cure. I am a big fan of powdercoating when done in a controlled manner (similar parts or metal thicknesses where the powder coater has an efficient cleaning system and knows the oven time for proper cure, not under or overcure). I am no fan of powder coating operations where they load their oven up with dissimilar parts, undercuring thick parts and overcuring sheet metal parts, improper cleaning, handling "cleaned" parts without gloves,etc. Primer/paint is MUCH more forgiving when applied to marginally cleaned steel.

[Tarl]

I have had great results with a cheapo HF powder coat gun and free by side of road electric oven. I have a good sandblaster and I think that's needed to prep before PC'ing.

[android 211]

It depends on how meticulous the blaster is too. I just took a rear end to a powder coater because he was cheaper than the sandblaster I usually use. They missed several spots. This isn't a high point car; its a driver so I don't care that much. A really clean part, wiped down with solvent then etching epoxy primed then painted will last a long time. I had bad luck with rallye IIs powder coated; the coating didn't go down in the crevice between the hub and the rim. It rusted and the coat lifted.

[irgoatmike]

A lot of valid, good points above, my take has always been that powder coat done well looks good and is very resistant to chemical spills. That said, there is no way to apply a self etching or DTM primer under it to prevent rust from creeping if a chip does occur. It definitely can be less labor and $$$$ for what I see a lot of these powdercoaters advertise for. I personally prefer paint. Irgoatmike

[lugnutx2]

I've always had success using Rustoleum on frames, just did another this past week, this time I took some advice and used their professional grade. The frame probably wasn't gloss from the factory, but it's a driver and I like the look.

[jetallman]

Originally Posted by lugnutx2

I've always had success using Rustoleum on frames, just did another this past week, this time I took some advice and used their professional grade. The frame probably wasn't gloss from the factory, but it's a driver and I like the look.

That's what I've done it with now, but was considering powder coating if it would tend to wear better

[fatguyterry]

I have my 67 got powder coated, frame, control arms - frt and rear, diff. looks great after 10 yrs. I used to build Harleys and all of the frames are or were powder coated that I did or I would not build you a custom bike. it will last 100 times longer than paint.