[jimib]

There’s got to be an improved header setup from the headers I bought 30 years ago. Now that I have the engine and headers painted, it’s time unite these part to the engine before dropping the motor. There’s hardly any working room to insert the bolt(s) with my fingers in and between the pipes.

Tell me about your headers and tips to install then.

[lordtyman]

I went with RAM Air - http://www.ramairrestoration.com/ instead of headers. No more fighting with leaks or no clearance issues.

[jd66]

First of all congratulations on having your car close to going back on the street, but answering your question from members about headers and install tips best answer is go with the ram air manifolds because there is no easy way to install tube headers made for Pontiac and I really mean none, but like everything else some are a little better the others. I run Doug's on my 66 GTO, had them powered coated when bought and they do look good, Install tips are straight forward make sure all the bolts go in straight and you can get a wrench on all the heads of the bolts, I had to adjust 1 tube, If you have a stick car make sure the Z bar clears, had to remake mine, but I do have one word of advice if you have to have headers like me BUY NEW, don't install a used set your just going to redo everything over sooner. good luck. BTDT. jd grim 66 gto

[67gtospud]

I installed my headers in car last fall. Best way is to jack the front of the car up 6-8 inches and support it.then remove the motor Mount bolts and jack the engine up a few inches. This gives a decent amount of room for the passenger side header. And you can sort of tilt the motor a little to each side to gain a couple extra inches. The driver side header is much more of a pain. Assuming you have a large gm starter, remove it. Once you have the header in and a couple bolts started a couple threads reinstall the starter. Also if you have a manual trans it's that much more fun. . . Not. I don't know about other brands but on my hooker super comps my z-bar went inbetween 2 of the tubes.

[Goatracer1]

I installed Hedman Husler headers on my 1967 GTO. They were the easiest headers I ever installed. They ARE NOT for someone who wants the stock look because they require a hole in the rear of the inner fender for one tube to go through. I installed them by myself, nothing was removed and the engine did not need to be jacked up. These have 2" tubes. Got mine from Butler's.

[b-man]

Originally Posted by jimib

There’s got to be an improved header setup from the headers I bought 30 years ago. Now that I have the engine and headers painted, it’s time unite these part to the engine before dropping the motor. There’s hardly any working room to insert the bolt(s) with my fingers in and between the pipes.

Tell me about your headers and tips to install then.

You won't be able to bolt the headers to the engine and then drop it all in, won't even come close to fitting.

You can lay the headers in the engine compartment first (use wire to hang them in place) and slowly drop the engine down and bolt them to the engine after it's either sitting on the mounts or close to that.

D-port headers are definitely more difficult to get the bolts into compared to round-port headers, and some header designs are easier to work with than others.

The factory Ram Air manifolds are becoming more popular all the time, mainly because of the installation hassles of tube headers and the lack of ground clearance of most header brands.

[Andre]

B-man pretty much nails it. Some other things to do.... remove all engine accessories that get in the way.
Use threaded studs with nuts on some of the tougher bolt holes, and notch the header flange to give some room to make adjustments.

[chrisp]

Go with Dougs brand , fit is excellent / thick flanges for heads & collector , avail. bare or silver ceramic coated .

[jimib]

This Ram Air concept is completely new to me. I checked out the link above and they state “tube header performance”. $329 is a lot cheaper than headers. This may be my best option.

[Greg Reid]

Originally Posted by jimib

they state “tube header performance”

That's probably a bit of a stretch....but yeah, I like the manifolds for ease of installation and they'll last forever.

[fyrffytr1]

A couple things to consider if you go with the Ram Air headers. You will either have to modify your existing engine harness or buy a new one. And, if you have an automatic transmission the cooling lines are different. They run higher up on the inner fender to clear the exhaust. That is what I have been told but I don't know if it is true. Hopefully some one here with more knowledge can set the record straight.
I have a set of original HO exhaust manifolds that I plan on installing in my 67 in the future.

[geeteeohguy]

Fyrffytr1, you are correct. On both counts. The trans line can be horsed around to work (I'd just put the right one on) but the cable, routing, and wiring must be changed over to stay in unburnt condition. Recently was involved with a '67 GTO and used the new harness, tube, and cable....and it looked factory. Very clean installation, very neat. No trans line....car got converted to a 4 speed..........

[GT182]

Originally Posted by lordtyman

I went with RAM Air - http://www.ramairrestoration.com/ instead of headers. No more fighting with leaks or no clearance issues.

Was that each or for the pair?

[jimib]

I opted to stay with headers; I like the looks.

Should I use a copper sealant? Do I need to sand off the paint on the block surface where it meets the header gasket? I think this would burn off.

I bought new header bolts that have a 3/8" head; the originals had a 7/16" head. The smaller head gives me just a little more clearance with a wrench to bolt to the engine with a little more ease and a little less profanity.

B-Man: The entire front end is removed including the inner fenders. I think the engine with headers will go in with ease, but I’ll find out. (-:

[b-man]

Having the front sheetmetal removed still won't make it fit, the frame rails are your interference points.

[fyrffytr1]

What B-man said but, having the front clip out of the way will give you better access to the header bolts. Is the steering column installed?

[jimib]

Sound good; I’ll lower the engine in to the bay and gradually bring in the headers. Any suggestions on that silver gasket sealant for headers?

[Greg Reid]

Lay the headers down into the crossemember area and let the engine down on top of them. Bolt them on and then finish dropping the engine into place.

[jimib]

Engine install is not lining up.

As I lower the engine on the frame, the oil pan is contacting the cross member and lower pulley hitting the center link as the motor mounts engage the brackets. I’m almost positive the mounting brackets are oriented correctly; the one with the high hoop is on the driver’s side. As for the mounts, the one with the flange is on the driver’s side. Any clue where I’m going wrong?

[jimib]

Possibly I’m out of the woods. I’m installing the engine without the tranny since I plan to install a 5 or 6 speed. I remembered to tilt the engine and thus far appears to line up nicely. Now I have to wrestle in the headers.