[Squidward]

Just thought I would share my experience so far with the install.

I was tired of doing one wheel burnouts at the track. Car is a 67 FB, with 350P/Summit 2800/TH350/BOP 8.2 open with 3.23's. I had installed a looser converter to improve launch, but ran into traction issues with the open diff. It hampered my ability to take advantage of the new converter.

Solution? Powertrax No Slip by Richmond. After mulling over various options like an Auburn LSD, I decided this would be what I try. I did not want to go through a whole rebuild and setup of a rear end so that I would be stuck with the same gears due to carrier size. I am not at a power level that necessitates the bulletproof rear end, so this seems like a perfect fit. If/when I get significantly more power, then I will step up to something else like an 8.5 or maybe an aftermarket 9".

Besides... This was my first ever foray into a rear end, so I thought "baby steps..."

Price was matched by Summit from an Amazon seller. I got it for $435 plus shipping.

The unit arrived, and it was surprisingly simple. It was a sandwiching of 4 splined/geared pieces, splined spacers to accept the axles, plus a shaft to replace the spider gear shaft. Add to that a palm full of small springs, and that was it. The whole unit put together resembled a metal cheeseburger with a big whole pickle in the middle.

Install started on an afternoon. Jack up the back end, pull the cover, and drain the diff. Easy enough, so far so good. The next step was to remove the differential pinion shaft retaining bolt and shaft. It took a little bit of fuss, but the shaft presses out. Since the shaft holds the spider gears, they now came right out. These gears get removed and won't go back in. My wife will use them for artwork.

[Scarebird]

I had one of those when they first came out - the clacking drives you nuts... and sometimes going around a corner can be surprising if you goose it.

[Big Injun]

Personally, I think they are junk. More importantly, they do not always unlock which is a safety issue on a winding road.

[Squidward]

At this point, the side gears need to come out. In order to do that, the passenger side axle must be pulled out several inches, so it was time pull wheel and brake assembly. I should have pulled the wheel before putting it up on jacks, but live and learn...

Pulling the axle required disassembly of the brake drum. I had to take pictures of that so I could remember how to put it back together. After the brake stuff was out of the way, there were 4 nuts holding the axle retainer plate.

This would be an ideal time to replace the bearing seals and/or outer bearings. I was in luck - my bearings were in good shape. This rear end was a rebuild swapped into the car back in the 90's before it sat for a decade.

After the axle was pulled out a bit, then the side gears and shims could be pulled out. At this point, the differential carrier should be empty of all side and spider gears, shims, and pinion shaft.

Now is where the Powertrax install begins. I included some shots of the guts. It does require some checking of spacer paddle alignment, etc., but that is pretty clear in the instructions. It starts by using wheel grease to hold the 4 small springs in each half of the "cheeseburger". The grease seems to be used more as an adhesive than anything else.

[Squidward]

The rest of the install follows directions to insert the two halves of the "burger", and dual spring inserts that keep the halves separated from each other. The final part is to install the supplied "pinion" shaft, and to reseat the axle.

Overall? It was a doable job for a differential noob. It took about 3 hours. The only problem I had was during final testing for proper engagement/disengagement of the two rear wheels. After initial assembly only the driver side wheel was disengaging properly. At that point I tore it apart again, mixed the different splined parts (the two half assemblies are identical pieces), and put it together. This time, everything engaged/disengaged properly.

Right now I am waiting on some new wheel studs and lug nuts to arrive in the mail before I button the job up completely. I will be sure to post an update as to how it performs after I get it back on the ground.

[Squidward]

Scarebird, the clacking didn't seem bad at all during testing. I can see how the initial disengagement might be a little clunky, tho. We'll see!

Big Injun, I appreciate the input. I'll have to get a feel for it before driving the Old 88 highway with the narrow cliff roads. Come to think of it, I don't even like driving that road with ANY vehicle!

This is the path I have chosen. We all roll the dice. Sometimes ya come up a winner, and sometimes it's snake-eyes. I wasn't ready to do a bunch of differential setup with a standard LSD, nor did I want to pop yet on $3k worth of aftermarket rear end.

At the very least maybe I'll have some awesome carnage pics to post when I go racing in a couple weeks. I hadn't found many posts about this unit before hand, so I'll consider myself part of product testing.

[Gerrit]

Please be careful on wet and winding roads when going on and off the load pedal.

[Icefan71]

I've been looking at the Powertrax also because it seems like a good 1st step for a beginner like me as far as installation. I'm very interested to know how it works out for you, Squidward.

[rtanner]

yes please update on your satisfaction w driveability, noise etc<<<< ive been thinking about one of those in the factory 3.08 rear for my 69 bird, thanks!!!

[Skip Fix]

A buddy put one in his Charger and the clacking drove him nuts so he pulled it.

[rtanner]

Originally Posted by Skip Fix

A buddy put one in his Charger and the clacking drove him nuts so he pulled it.

i keep hearing this over and over

[Squidward]

Originally Posted by rtanner

i keep hearing this over and over

I guess I will have a few options if that proves to be the case: live with it, pull it, turn up the metal on the radio, or go louder on the exhaust.

[66 Gas Tires Oil]

total junk. had one in the early 2000's went around a corner and almost wrecked. called the company and got my money back. the clacking was the least concern. the longer you have it in the more dangerous it gets. just put a posi in it and be done with it.

Jim

[quick67bird]

I have one in my Firebird and it is noisy, but so is my engine. It does not unlock all the time, but when you drive a car with a good amount of HP on the street you are usually on your toes. I guess for a budget type of build where you do not want to tear your whole rear end apart it works. I was able to drop my 60s from the 2.0 to a 1.71 with the added traction. I was using BFG drag radials at the time.

I am a hard case I guess as my new rearend has a spool.

[geeteeohguy]

Have one in my Toyota 4x4 and it did cause me to wreck in a rainstorm going around a corner. You need to push in the clutch to disengage the driveline and coast around corners, or it'll kick the rear end out, and do it in jerks. Very dangerous on the street when wet. Pops, snaps, and sounds like the rear end is destroying itself....which it isn't. Mine's been bulletproof for the past 17 years and 50,000 miles. GREAT off road, when traction in mud or sand is needed. Not a good choice on the street, though. If I had to do it over again, I would have left the rear end alone. Hopefully, you'll get more user-friendly results. It'll definitely hook up at the track, though.

[chiphead]

I had one in a BOP 8.2 in my '67 LeMans. Same pop/click/bang sounds when turning. Sounds like its eating itself with 80W90 oil. The lock/unlock behavior can be anticipated once you're used to it. The car will load/unload the suspension on long sweeping turns at highway speeds if you get off/on/off the gas so it's something to be aware of. It will push the back end around on wet roads as others have said. The thing is, it will start to push you around, so you let off the gas and it might or might not unlock. Unnerving.

It worked OK when I had the P350 in the car for street/strip. Once I stepped up to a built P400, it didn't last long at the dragstrip. With 10" converter/TH350/3.23/street tires footbraking, the pass side axle twisted like a barbershop pole at the splines. I parted the rear out and went Ford 9.

[Ozzmann]

I've had mine in for around 2 years, no complaints, you just have to remember to be careful in the wet. The noise isn't that bad , only hear the occasional clicking when turning, all in all for the price it was a good upgrade for me.

[Squidward]

I benefit from living in Arizona because it doesn't rain here except for a handful of days each year. And when it does, it is usually a deluge of biblical proportions. I don't drive my 'bird on those days. Ever.

But I think it ends up being attractive for the time being for a couple of reasons. I didn't have to set up backlash, etc., which is not in the cards for me at the moment. I don't want to pay somebody else to do it right now, nor do I want to dump that time and expense into an 8.2.

Also, I am stuck with a series 2 carrier. 3.23's are as good as it gets. I don't want to dump money on an Auburn unit for a series 2 when I probably want to go with 3.55's in the future on a different platform (8.5, Ford 9, or 8.8). I am hearing some other dudes that sound like they are kinda stuck playing with the hand they are dealt right now based on what is currently in the car. I get that.

Gotta go to the parts store. Started filling the case with oil, and saw that I accidentally grabbed limited slip oil from the shelf. Oops. There's $9 worth of oil recycling.

[Skip Fix]

Heck just pushing the Clegg's Rat Goat in the staging lanes with it's 9" and Locker sounds like the rear is breaking as it locks/unlocks!

[Donovan]

good post Squidward!