[Squidward]

Searched, couldn't find this previously discussed.

I am swapping rear ends in my 67 FB to a Nova 8.5. I am using Energy Suspension 3-6112G for multi-leaf 68+ FB/Camaro, and Novas.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ens-3-6112g


The pads have the center locating tit that aligns with the hole in the perch, and the hole on the shock plate. ES included a metal insert that fits in the polyurethane pad inside of this tit.

Previous owner had performed the multileaf conversion by grinding off the center pin bolt on the spring since the 67 FB mono-leaf perch doesn't have a locator hole.

I had a local shop replace the center bolt/pin in the springs, and that pin diameter is the same as the metal insert. This means it won't fit inside the metal insert included with the pads. Either I am not supposed to use these metal inserts, or the shop put in the wrong diameter center bolt.

Has anyone used these leaf spring pads, and am I even supposed to use these metal insert pieces? Or just let the center bolt pin on the spring bareback it into the spring pad isolator?

Thx!

[Squidward]

After some phone calls and discussion, I came to the conclusion that the spring pin bolt barebacks into the recess. No metal insert needed based on the size of my spring pins. I guess the inserts are to accommodate a skinnier pin. On the road to recovery. Now I have to press out the spring eye bushings.

[Will]

Do you have a press? If not, you can just drill out the rubber bushings. Just take a drill bit that slightly smaller than the thickness between the spring and the sleeve in the center of the bushing and start drilling straight through the rubber, making the holes as close together as you can possibly get them. You'll eventually be able to just twist the original bushing out.

A crude press to put new bushings in can be made from some threaded rod and large washers or steel plate.

[Squidward]

I have a press. It is a matter of finding the right diameter accessories to press out the sleeve.

The new bushings are poly, and don't have a sleeve. They should squeeze in ok.

[Squidward]

Install is complete. I couldn't use my helper springs because the locating pins wouldn't extend far enough. So my rear end is just a tiny bit lower and suspension is a touch softer in back. But overall, I am happy with the poly pad kit. I really liked the leaf spring eye bushing and shackle kit.

Remnants of the project include parking brake cable install and driveshaft measure/sizing.

[pro-tour79]

the trick to removing the front eye bushing, take a chisel and wedge it into the leaf spring curl use a washer and bolt into the bushing to give a striking face and pound it out with a hammer should come out pretty easy.

[Squidward]

I found a socket that was just big enough to get a bite on the sleeve. But good tip.

I bought the press from HF when I was putting ring/pinion/posi into the rear end. I'm still figuring out some of the little tricks to shove tab "A" into slot "B".

[Squidward]

Getting driveshaft made. My existing shaft for ST300/TH350 and 8.2 BOP was too long, and had 1350 ujoints. I had a spare 2nd gen shaft from a TH400 car, and it was 1" too short. So, magic length was 48.75". This just so happens to be the same length as a 2nd gen F body with a TH350. But go figure that I haven't been able to find one on CL in Phoenix for the last couple of months...

But at least I know it will be new, balanced, and straight.

[Skip Fix]

The factory rubber ones have metal in the lower pad that locate it in the lower plate. Some folks think the urethane is too slippery and springs will slip out. I've never had an issue.

[Squidward]

Driveshaft is done, and gives me 1.25" of space from full insertion. I shot for 1", but the shop made it 1/4" shorter assuming that the new slip yoke was slightly longer than the slip yoke that I had been using, so using that slip yoke as a guide they made the mod. I think the extra 1/4" won't make a difference.

I have 1310's on both ends. The 8.5 pinion yoke is for a 1310, and both ends of my donor shaft were 1310. The new trans slip yoke is also 1310.

I learned something. My previous shaft used 3RL joints, which is kinda like 1350's but with inner c clips for centering the joint/shaft. This is the style used on my 71 Skylark 8.5 for my Lemans. It needs the inner c clip to center the joint. My 1310 style 8.5 (73 Nova) yoke has nubbies on the yoke to center on the outside of the caps.

Only thing left before I get back on the road is installing new parking brake cables, installing an axle tube vent, and filling with fluid.