[Bobalong]

I subscribe to a couple of hobby interweb sites. One thing I have learned when trying to get help is there are some who have absolutely no clue but are glad to offer information, others have the knowledge and prefer to hold it close so others can just learn the hard way. And then there's the ones who never take the time to read thoroughly the question, but are quick to jump in the middle and offer useless sometimes WRONG information.
AND then there are those knowledgeable folks who offer up tried and true solutions learned from the school of hard knocks.
Well if you're swapping out a old school automatic (my case a turbo 400) for a newer 200 or 700 (I have no experience with the LE electronic controlled 700 )
Well I am sharing what I now know. Some of the info I now have was like pulling teeth to get, but I am glad to share it if it helps you.

This is NOT a comprehensive installation guide, it's just answers to questions I had during my install in my 70 GTO.

The 2004r bolt pattern will bolt directly to a Pontiac 400.

The 700r4 requires an adapter plate (40-50 bucks)

Which transmission is better ?? That is just like asking which motor oil is best, everyone had a different answer. You have to do some homework and decide for yourself.

IF you are wanting a stock look when you are finished, don't forget the extra notch now needed for the OD position on your shifter.
And now the reverse safety switch AND back up lights will require kits to function properly. (Those aftermarket kits are all available).


You will need a keyed +pos 12V for an overdrive lock up. These transmissions need to see 12V constant, and will lock up via the transmission making ground via some magic internal component. (I don't build transmissions, I use them). A normally closed relay hooked to the brake light will provide the removal of 12 V when the brakes are applied so the tranny doesn't stay locked and try to push you thru a red stoplight (or kill the motor, or . . .)

My driveshaft had to be lengthened. And the splines for a 400 are different. May be the same if you are replacing a turbo 350 tranny.

To get a good measurement use a non metal tape measure and ask your driveshaft builder where they want the exact measurements taken from.

The crossmember holding the tail of the tranny in place for 1970 had pre drilled holes in the frame (lucky me) The steel/rubber mount that bolts the tranny and that crosmember in place is not available aftermarket. I had to elongate the hole on the drivers side, then it bolted right in place.

You can order the cable TV (throttle valve) from a bunch of places. BUT measure the distance from your carburator to the tranny, not all cables are the same length. Most are too short.

The aftermarket TV / Throttle bracket for quadrajet does not allow the use of the factory (1970) throttle cable. This is the bracket , bolted to the intake manifold that holds the throttle cable in place. I cut the section I needed from the aftermarket bracket and welded it to my factory throttle bracket, no need to replace a perfectly good factory cable. Now it holds both cables.

The TV cable must be hooked to the carb linkage. And you will see the term linkage "geometry" used. WTF are they talking about ? Simplified it means the TV cable MUST be in a lavel, flat line from the TV bracket to the carb linkage both at idle and when the carb is in the WOT position. AND that little stud the TV cable attaches to on the carb must be exactly 1 inch below the primary shaft and 1/2 inch to the rear. There is an excellent youtube if it's confusing. The cable must always have tension to work properly.

You can roll the dice and buy a one size fits everything tranny dipstick tube on the interweb, but how do you know where the proper "full- add" line is supposed to be for fluid ?? Good luck figuring that one out.
I bought a tube from a 80's Buick GN which used the same tranny, fit perfect. Also Monte SS tube should work. No drilling holes in the firewall to secure it.

There it is. If you're contemplating a swap this will help you out. Most A body installs will be similar.

Bob

[David Jones]

Having installed a TKO600 in place of my Turbo 400 a few years ago I echo your opening statement. Lots of info offered. Lots of info out there. Not all of it applies or is correct. I appreciated each little nugget but had to filter it somewhat. Not always easy to do when you don't really know what you're doing.

Great post! Sharing info is what the tech forums are all about

[Steve C.]

If one is not interested in running a lock up converter see jakeshoe's post here (#4) :

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=339828

Personally I first had a lock-up converter in my 200-4r but later had the transmission changed to run a non-lock up Continental converter. I can highly recommend them as a source. Under a steady state cruse speed on the open highway the converter has about a 200 rpm slippage, very acceptable in my opinion. With my 27.7" diameter rear tire and 3.73 gears it is about 2300 rpm at 70 mph.

With my cam choice/torque curve situation, the engine with the lock up converter gave a feeling from what I read is commonaly called a chuggle. This chuggle or slight bucking that I felt in OD was from the converter locked at slower engine speeds. Sort of similar to a manual transmission lugging in 4th gear at a slow speed.

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[Goatracer1]

If you have access to the series of articles that were in High Performance Pontiac on the installation of a T200-4R follow it. I used that article when I installed the trans in my car and the whole installation, including removing the T400, took a weekend. Have all the recommended parts on hand and you can't go wrong.

[Bobalong]

Originally Posted by Goatracer1

If you have access to the series of articles that were in High Performance Pontiac on the installation of a T200-4R follow it. I used that article when I installed the trans in my car and the whole installation, including removing the T400, took a weekend. Have all the recommended parts on hand and you can't go wrong.

What year ? What months ? Where at on line ? HPP went out of business in 1997

[Goatracer1]

HPP hasn't been out of business that long. If I can find the articles this weekend I'll post the dates. The series ran about 6 issues.

[Bobalong]

Originally Posted by Goatracer1

HPP hasn't been out of business that long. If I can find the articles this weekend I'll post the dates. The series ran about 6 issues.

http://forums.hotrod.com/high-perfor...p-in-the-face/

Discontinued in 2014 my bad.

[Steve C.]

Information on the High Performance Pontiac swap article...

http://www.johnlivingston.com/442/20...PP_review.html


Others related if interested:

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/497...smission-swap/

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/462...drive-install/


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[redhawk44]

Great info to have Bob. I'm so deep into my engine build I haven't even thought about the tranny and I had no clue about most of what you mentioned. I am sure the tips you brought up will be of great use. Thanks Bob,
Jeff

[Bobalong]

Originally Posted by Steve C.

Information on the High Performance Pontiac swap article...

http://www.johnlivingston.com/442/20...PP_review.html


Others related if interested:

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/497...smission-swap/

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/462...drive-install/


.

Didn't want to create a password and make an account for the John Livingston HPP article but I'm sure there is useful information there. Anyone interested in doing the swap should read the two articles from superchevy, they provide more detailed information (in some cases) than my laundry list.
Especially of interest is the side by side pics and explanations between the 700 and 200 transmissions.
In my case, with stock horsepower and only an occasional burn out and no drag strip use I find the 200 to be more than adequate.

Something I might mention about the TV (throttle valve) cable and it's function. I had a "constant pressure" valve installed. (summit) That virtually eliminates the possibility of ruining the transmission from improper adjustment of the TV cable.
If you read and understand the proper way to adjust the TV cable you don't need this. I got the cart before the GTO

Steve C thanks for the additional information you took the time to provide. As someone said it's hard to ask questions about this kind of swap if you don't know what to ask.

[Steve C.]

We can highly recommend the Bowtie Overdrives TV and Throttle Cable SYSTEMS. They also sell replacement springs to boost pressure on valve body.


http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/


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[TheSilverBuick]

To add to the confusion =P I didn't find a need to modify the neutral safety switch in either my 700-r4 or 200-4r conversion for Park, Reverse and Neutral settings, just have to adjust the column linkage accordingly (both my swaps had the ignition key in the column). My third swap uses a 4-speed aftermarket shifter that takes care of park/neutral and reverse.

I was less than impressed with Holley's adapter for "correct" cable adjustment. Practically better off drilling and installing your own stud in an appropriate spot. I got throttle brackets from 80's era Oldsmobile's and Buick's that bolt to the carb studs and have both the TV cable and throttle cable brackets as one.

But I'm over this cable junk and inconsistent shifting gear to gear(****ty 2004r governor and VB design), I've now got the pieces together to go full electronic with a 4L60e. Soon this winter I'll get a shift kit installed and put the transmission in the Firebird.

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by Steve C.

We can highly recommend the Bowtie Overdrives TV and Throttle Cable SYSTEMS. They also sell replacement springs to boost pressure on valve body.


http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/


.

I like their' line kits too, and use them on a lot of cars.

The 'chuggle'' you speak of Steve can be corrected by using a combo of RPM switch,vacuum switch, and a vacuum delay switch. You can create a situation where it unlocks on throttle lift, and delays when you cruise at the lock up RPM. It's a little bit of a pain since it takes trial and error testing, because it varies from driver to driver, but the end result is a much better experience.

You still run into the problem of needing a converter that can handle (high HP) full throttle lock up though, and those aren't cheap.

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[Steve C.]

"The 'chuggle'' you speak of Steve can be corrected..."

I looked into the situation but we decided to go with the non lock up converter. My 505 made peak power at around 5900/6000 rpm on the dyno. My torque curve is high, but not lacking down low. It starts making 600 ft.lbs torque around 4100 rpm and carries over 600 ft.lbs up to 5700 rpm.


.

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by Steve C.

"The 'chuggle'' you speak of Steve can be corrected..."

I looked into the situation but we decided to go with the non lock up converter. My 505 made peak power at around 5900/6000 rpm on the dyno. My torque curve is high, but not lacking down low. It starts making 600 ft.lbs torque around 4100 rpm and carries over 600 ft.lbs up to 5700 rpm.


.

Just as well, on top of the power/curve, sometimes vacuum can mess with the switches.

[SMW]

One note about the dipstick tubes. If you have a Pontiac engine you need to get the dipstick tube from a Buick, Olds, or Pontiac. Chevy has a different bolt pattern and the tab on the dipstick tube will not line up correctly for the Pontiac bolt location.

[wheelspin]

Originally Posted by Steve C.

We can highly recommend the Bowtie Overdrives TV and Throttle Cable SYSTEMS. They also sell replacement springs to boost pressure on valve body.


http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/


.

I also recommend BTO for their overdrive trans brackets and adjustable throttle snail cams for various applications. I have BTO setups for my '66 Tri-pwr, single four barrel Shaker 455"s Holley and Cliff's Q-jet. Throttle cable pictured is made by Lokar.

[maxpowerta]

"My driveshaft had to be lengthened. And the splines for a 400 are different. May be the same if you are replacing a turbo 350 tranny." I find this interesting, I just finished this swap a couple of months ago on my 71 GTO. I replaced the TH400 with a 2004R and didn't have to lengthen the driveshaft, All I did was swap the slip yoke with one I had from an old trans am and the length was correct.