[ponyakr]

'68 Bird. No title. Not worth putting back on the street. It has sheet metal replacing some of the rusted out floor pan and trunk floor. Has a glass hood with old style flat snorkle scoop. It was built to resemble a couple of 1st gens my wife raced back in the '70's & '80's, complete with lettering & decals. Has all drum brakes, sub-frame connectors, and slapper bars. 12-bolt rear with mini-spool & 4.10 gears. Solid Centerline wheels all around, with short front tires and good 10.8" Phoenix slicks.

Has a built TH400, 10" converter, B&M ratchet shifter, shift light tach, new PST driveshaft, new fuel cell, 2 fresh 34/78 800cca dual terminal batts.

Engine is a '75-'76 455 block, with unported 6x-8 heads, forged rods & pistons, 292 Comp cam/Rhoads lifters, CC roller tip rockers, Torker 2 intake, 750 vac Holley, HEI with MSD rev limiter replacement module, RobbMc 1100 fuel pump with 1/2" line from cell, Flowkooler water pump, Summit mini starter, 3-tube headers with collector extensions. Hasn't made a pass down a track yet. Just a blast or 2 on a country road.

Has a flex fan, cheap alum rad, and no shroud. That's about all I can think of for now. The asking price is $10k. OR I'll keep the engine & everything that's bolted to it, and take $5000 for the rest. If no sale, I can keep the 12-bolt & all other racing parts and take $3000 for the rest.

Will also consider partial trades, for the right street/strip candidate. You can see which models I might consider, on this thread.

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=795268

It ain't nothin fancy, but should make a decent 1/8 mile footbraker. Should make a good beginner car for somebody wanting to get into bracket racing. Should run low to mid 7's on our local 1/8 mile track, or probably high 11's on a 1/4 mile track. There are several things I'd add or do to it, if I was gonna try to do some serious competitive bracket racing, but it should make a decent pass, as is. For a beginner, a mild 400 and a decent Glide would make it a consistent & easy to drive 12 sec car.

Here are some pics. Can post more.

[ponyakr]

Haven't had any serious bites on my '68 bracket Bird. So, I'm gonna consider parting it out.

Engine price: $4000 Carb to pan, water pump to flexplate.

Built TH400 / 10" conveter Price: $1000

New 49" PST driveshaft with TH400 slip yoke & 1310 U-joint on the rear. Price: $150

Complete roller, including the 12-bolt rear with 4.10 gears & mini-spool, Centerline wheels, small front tires and good 10.8" Phoenix slicks Price: $4000

Less wheels / tires--hold-ups only Price: $3500

Less the two 800cca 34/78 batts Price: $3300

Less the fuel cell Price: $3200

Less the alum rad Price $3100

Less the B&M Pro-Rachet shifter Price: $3000

Less 12-bolt Price: $2000

By the way, it does have a VIN plate on the dash. So, if you really want a title, there are several ways you could get one.

Will also sell the TH400 / 10" converter / 12-bolt rear end / 49" shaft , together as a package Price: $2500

Hey, all you have to do is bring a trailer and the cash. I'll help load it up. I'm located in North central Louisiana.

For more info PM here, or call 1-318-259-8813, or Email ba455@outlook.com

Also, may consider partial trades for a GOOD candidate for a street/strip car. Some of those I'm considering are '69-'72 A-body, '77-'78 non-T/A Bird, '73,'74,'77 Ventura, & some of the smaller Lemans, Catalina, & Bonneville models from the late '70's. No rust buckets, dis-assembled projects, T-tops, moon roofs, or 4-doors. And prefer no vinyl roof, unless it's rear perfect & does not need replacing. Prefer it to have a Pontiac engine, even a 301, & even if it don't run.

[ponyakr]

Will now consider trading this car or roller for a decent trailer towing pickup.

[ponyakr]

Well, I've had some interesting trade offers. But none are Pontiac, and none are trailer towing pickups.

Yesterday, I was offered what appeared to be an ambulance, converted to an RV. And all the lights work. It appeared to be a dual wheel van chassis, with an ambulance box.

Anyhow, this got me to thinking. Since I haven't come up with a cash buyer yet for any of my stuff, I might consider trades for something I don't particularly need, but think I could possibly sell, easier than my Pontiac stuff. Or maybe something I don't particularly want, but could use til I find something better.

So, this opens up LOTS of possibilities. The 1st thing that comes to mind is Chevy stuff. I don't really want any Chevy stuff. But, there are quite a few Chevy vehicles I could use and/or sell. And, as we all know, there is a LOT more Chevy stuff out there than all the Pontiacs & GMC trucks combined.

With this in mind, I'll now consider any Chevy 1/2 ton or larger pickup. I'll include the El Camino & the GMC version of it.

Also I'll now consider any model, full size, clean Pontiac wagon. I've seen several Pontiac wagons pulling another Pontiac on a trailer.

I'll include any clean, rust free '68-'72 GM A-body, or '68-up X-body with an 8.5 or 12-bolt rear.

Will also include most any clean 2nd gen Bird, even the non-Pontiac powered '79-'81 models which I don't particularly like.

Hey, I'll even consider a 3rd Gen Bird, ONLY if it's real clean inside and out.

All these vehicles must have a clear title, and be street legal, with no more than minor repairs or changes needed. No rust buckets or disassembled projects. No strip only vehicles.

I'm sure there is lots of other stuff that might work. But that's all that comes to mind right now. That should open up lots more possible trades. So, how 'bout it ? Any of you guys got any of these units you'd like to trade for some of my Pontiac stuff ?

[ponyakr]

Well, I've been doing some searches today. Since I knew VERY little about the El Camino/Sprint/Caballero, I tried to learn a little about 'em.

It seems that the '73-'77 models share a lot of parts with the '73-'77 Chevelle. And, I assume many of the '73-'77 Pontiac A-body parts will also interchange. But, I know very little about those models. So, I need to ask some dummy questions.

(1) Do all '73-'77 A-bodies have the 8.5 rear end ?

(2) Do any of these have bolt-in axles ?

(3) How about wagons & GP's--any bolt-ins ?

(4) Are the 8.5 wagon rears wider than the A-body rears ?

(5) Are the rears from any other years, direct bolt-ins for the '73-'77 A-body 8.5 ?

(6) I have an 8.5 in a mid '80's Safari wagon. Any chance it might bolt into a '73-'77 A-body ? Don't know if the control arm brackets & ears are the same or not ?

Some of you guys might be wondering why all these questions about El Caminos & '73-'77 A-bodies. Well, during my search today, I saw a pic of an El Camino with what appeared to be a Grand Am front cap. I thought it looked pretty cool.

So, I began to think of the possibilities of a street/strip Pontiac powered El Camino or Sprint. Talk about an all purpose ride. It would do all my light hauling, including engines, trans, and other parts, as well as just hauling off trash and junk. Plus, it would burn rubber when desired, and do a little bracket racing on weekends. Hey, if the body is decent, you could even take it to a few shows.

So far, I think I like the '74-'75 models the most. The '73-'75's have 2 round headlights. The '76-'77's have 4 rectangle headlights.

The '78-'87 models actually look better. IMO But, they have the 7.5 rear. I think you'd need a G-body 8.5, to bolt in. i think those came only in the Buick GN, the '80's 442's, and maybe another model or 2. Probably high dollar rears nowadays.

So, I think the '73-'75 models would be the best way to go. I was surprised to find quite a few of these online, for a reasonable price. Looks like around $4k or less will buy one with a decent body. Might be able to buy a roller, or one with a bad(or no) engine and/or trans, a bit cheaper.

Any of you guys know where a good buy is on one like this, anywhere within say about 500 miles or so from North Louisiana ?

Anybody own one you might swap for some of my Pontiac stuff ?

[ponyakr]

Wow, no decent trade offers, and not 1 single cash offer for complete car or roller.

So, is there anybody on this site that will make a serious cash offer for any part of this car ?

It seems that buying is easy(if you have the cash), but selling is hard, even if the price is reasonable.

Just wondering if anybody is selling anything in the classified section. Or is there just a lot of stuff FOR SALE ?

[rexs73gto]

To answer one of your questions about the rear ends. Some very early built 73 GTO's had an 8.5 rear with bolt in axles in them. My car came with one but it is now buried in my parents old back yard where the pool use to be. It had bolt in axles but I blew it up in DC when stationed there in 1976. It shows them in the old parts book if you have one from early 73 , but Pontiac went to all C-clip style axles after about 3 months of the build. They were built with the clutch style posi to. The only rear end that will bolt right in to the 73-77 A-bodies are just those, the earlier ones & later ones are a no go. Also the wagons are the same width.

[ponyakr]

OK, thanks for the info !

I've never really had any problems with C-lip axles, so it's probably not worth the $$ to switch to bolt-in. I figure anybody who knows what they are, would want max $$ for one.

A complete 9" Ford to fit, is around $2k. So, if you had to add a new posi, gears, set-up, and a brake job, to an 8.5, after purchase, the 9" would probably be a better value. Hey, just thinkin out loud.

http://www.quickperformance.com/9-Fo...7_p_20387.html

[pontiac_boy]

Where are you located?

[ponyakr]

Originally Posted by pontiac_boy

Where are you located?

I'm in North central Louisiana. zip 71251, out in the sticks.

You can Google your zip to mine & see how far it is and the quickest route.

Looks like I'm about 700 miles from Augusta, GA, I-20 most all the way.

http://www.distancebetweencitiescalc...o-la-71251-usa

A few years back, I had a Ventura shipped to me from Topeka, KS. It cost about $550. I just Googled the distance. It's about 680 miles. So, unless shipping has gone up a lot, you should be able to get a car shipped from here to South Carolina, for less than $700. Obviously, I don't know for sure, tho.

If you're thinking about buying my Bird, you might oughta make a decision soon. A guy has called me twice saying that when he comes home for Christmas, from working construction up North, he'll buy the roller, less engine/trans, if I still have it. I told him to send me $500, to let me know he's serious, and I'd hold it for him, til Christmas. But, he declined, saying he's not absolutely sure he'll be able to get home for Christmas. So, unless somebody buys it before then, I'll just wait to see what he does. The engine/trans is still in it, as of this post.

[ponyakr]

Just out of curiosity, I Googled a shipping quote, from here to Augusta. The 1st one was $809, on an open trailer.

https://www.montway.com/quote/shippi...ret=4a561cdee5

So, there are probably cheaper rates out there, since there is lots of competition.

This site shows it for $750.

https://www.autotransportdirect.com/quote/?step=3

This site estimates closer to $500.

https://www.uship.com/ship/estimate/...vaS22aezWrMHoz

[ponyakr]

DAS sent me a quote of $550 for the trip to Augusta.

http://www.dasautoshippers.com/?utm_...aign=DASemail+

[ponyakr]

Well, the best reasonable offer(maybe), is a Chevy guy who says he'll buy the roller when he's in for Christmas, from his construction job in N. Dakota, if I still have it.

I assume he's serious, since he's called back to see if I still have it. But, who knows ?

So, if any of you guys wanna save this Bird from having Chevy power, this may be the last chance.

So, I'll strip it down to a price that most anybody can afford.

Cheapest deal: Body, with 12-bolt rear. Includes glass hood, but no other racing parts at all. And, you provide your own hold-up tires. $2000

Options:

(1) My hold-up tires/wheels. Fronts are 8-hole Weld wheels. Rears are solid center alum. Don't remember the brand. But they look like the solid center Centerlines. All wheels are narrow, for front runners. All tires hold air, but can not be run. Add $100

(2) Slapper bars, with shock plate--probably Lakewood brand. Add $50.

(3) Alum radiator & hoses, 7.5 x 16 trans cooler & lines. Add $150

(4) Two Exide 34/78 dual terminal 800cca batts. Add $150

(5) Big positive cable which runs from the trunk to the firewall, the Ford type remote starter solenoid, and all the other wires, that go from the batts to the starter, including all batt terminal ends(8), & ground wires. Add $100

(6) Fuel cell. Add $100

(7) Racing seat/cover & belts. Add $100

(8) Tach with internal shift light. Add $75

(9) Oil & temp gauges. Add $25

(10) B&M Pro Ratchet shifter. Add $150

(11) Centerline solid center front runner wheels, with short street radial tires. Add $200

(12) Centerline solid center 15 x 10 wheels, with good Phoenix 10.8 x 29.5 slicks. Add $400

(13) New PST drive shaft. Add $200

(14) OR, I'll just pull the engine/trans & everything that's bolted to 'em, and sell the rest(with the good wheels/tires) for $3500. Don't think you'll find a better deal than that, unless you have a real good friend or relative that will give it to you for free.

(15) OR, I'll reduce the price for the whole car to $7500. That's adding $4000 for the complete 455/6x-8 heads, Torker II / 750 vac Holley, HEI with MSD rev limiter module & DUI cap/coil, Summit mini starter, flex fan, headers/extensions, driver side turnbuckles, K&N 5" air cleaner & valve cover filter vents, CC 1.52 roller tip rockers, etc, and a built TH400 with a 10" converter.

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...60&postcount=1

[ponyakr]

I'm just curious. Is there some ridiculous lowball price that would entice any of you guys to buy this car ?

Or would I have to give it away AND deliver it. ?

I've seen guys buy rusty projects that were not nearly as good a buy as this. I just don't get it. My price is down to about what the parts are worth.

Oh well, big deal. It ain't costin me nothin right now. So, maybe somebody will buy at least the roller, at some point.

[Dave R]

I'd be interested but without a title it's worthless to me as I can't cross the border, not even as parts.

[ponyakr]

Originally Posted by Dave R

I'd be interested but without a title it's worthless to me as I can't cross the border, not even as parts.

IF a title is absolutely the ONLY reason you won't buy it, I can get a title in my name. Otherwise, I don't need a title, just to race it. So it would be money wasted, for me to get a title, if I'm gonna keep it.

SO, for any of you guys who would buy it for the price listed, IF it had a title, send me $500 & I'll get a Louisiana title in my name. Right now I don't have $500 to spend on anything.

That $500 will be part of the purchase price. That will leave a balance of $7000, to buy the car, complete, & with a title.

[ponyakr]

Still got it. $7500 complete.

Less engine/trans/converter/shifter $3500.

Complete engine $3000.

TH400/10" converter/B&M Pro Ratchet shifter $1000.

[ponyakr]

March price lowered $500. Current price: $7000

Will also pay up to $200 of the shipping charges, for either the engine or the trans/converter/shifter pkg, via Fastenal store-to-store shipping.

[ponyakr]

Pulled engine/trans.

Roller ready to go. -- $3500

Less tires/wheels -- $3000

Completely stripped -- $2500

For $2500, you get body with glass hood, 6-point bars, 12-bolt rear with 4.10 mini-spool, slappers, & frame connectors.

Hey, this should work for even the really low budget guys, who wanna race.

All other parts are for sale separately.

Will also part out the 455 engine.

[ponyakr]

I had another thought. There are probably some guys who can't come up with more than $2000 for a body, but can find lots of cheap parts in their area.

So, here's one more option. I'll keep the 12-bolt, and take $1800 for what's left of the stripped roller. You bring a trailer with your own rear end & hold up tires. I shouldn't have any problem getting $700 +, for the rear end, locally.

I suppose if a guy can't come up with $1800, he can't afford to race anyhow, at today's racing costs.