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#1
06-18-2017, 05:36 PM
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Need 12v at pertronix coil
What's the best way to get 12v switched to the coil. I've installed a pertronix ignitor on my 65 grand prix and the stock coil wire is 6 volts. Any suggestions
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#2
06-18-2017, 05:57 PM
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On my 68, I jumped IGN1 and IGN2 at the ignition switch. And if there is any kind of ballast resistor, you'll have to remove it.
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#3
06-18-2017, 06:21 PM
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remove resistor wire replace with regular wire
and use original wiring or jump 2 wires together and lead new wire to coil look at pic
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#4
06-18-2017, 07:58 PM
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why pertronix's
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#5
06-18-2017, 08:25 PM
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On my dad's 67, I made a jumper for the IGN1 and IGN2 pins on the back of the ignition switch. With the 2 wires jumpered I'm pretty sure the stock resistor doesn't need to be removed. It looks completely stock and can be easily removed if you want to go back to stock.
On my 65, I use a relay for my HEI. You could do the same for your Petronix unit 85 - ground 86 - stock 6v coil wire 30- 16ga from back of alternator 87- 16ga to HEI
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#6
06-18-2017, 08:49 PM
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Are you still using the original coil? It wants the 6V (I thought it was closer to 8V) except during starting. You need to run the switched 12V wire without resistor to the Pertronix red wire. Leave the original resistance wire to the coil +.
If you are also changing the coil you may not need to power it with the resistance wire. See what the coil instructions say. Some want a full 12V and some still want the resistor. Didn't the Pertronix instructions explain this? |
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#7
06-19-2017, 11:46 AM
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I used a relay and left the wiring as it was as the relay was ok with the resistor wire in place.
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It's hard to soar like an eagle, when you're surrounded by turkeys! My wife says she'd llike my car a lot more if it wasn't mine.   64 Grand Prix 389 .030, 1.65 Scorpion Rollers, Tripower, RARE Long Branch, Custom Stainless Exhaust and mufflers, 3.90 posi 200-4R. 068 cam. |
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#8
06-22-2017, 06:39 PM
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The resistance wire is in the dash harness running over the area where the speedo is and is a pita to get to...
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65 Bonneville Brougham 4DHT 65 Grand Prix 2DHT......now parts 65 Catalina 2+2 2DHT 65 Catalina Safari 4DSW |
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#9
06-22-2017, 07:24 PM
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I ended up running a new wire from the ignition switch direct to the coil. Works perfectly. Thanks
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#10
11-04-2018, 11:39 AM
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Planning on doing this too and just want to clarify my understanding. So I am going to run a jumper at the ignition switch connecting ign1 and ign2. I also also need to run a 12v switched wire to the positive side of the coil. So my clarifying questions
I assume 12v switched can come off any place I find it? Does there need to be any kind of inline fuse with the new 12v wire, or no? Can I leave the existing resistance wire from the ignition to the coil in place after ruing the jumper wire and the new 12v wire? Thanks for clarifying. Appreciate the feedback |
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#11
11-04-2018, 04:18 PM
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Ignition 2 is only used in starting mode as a by pass of the resistor wire to feed 12v to the coil during starting. Your tap point for the 12v to the Pertronix needs to be from ign 1 BEFORE the resistance wire. If you still have a factory or factory replacement coil it should still run off the original terminal at the coil as that will be 12v starting and 6-8v running. If you have a replacement coil that wants 12V (sometimes hard to tell what the manufacturer wanted) it could also be run off the wire use to power the Pertronix.
You were going to jumper between ign 1 and ign 2 to get 12v power to the Pertronix during both start and run. But unless you have an aftermarket coil that wants 12v it does not need a new wire. If that is the case you could still leave the existing wire to the coil (6-8V run 12V start) in place with a little tape on the end to prevent shorting out. You probably don't need any fuses on the new wires. The factory didn't think they were needed but if it makes you feel better go for it. |
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#12
11-04-2018, 10:31 PM
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Thanks for thoughts. I do have an aftermarket coil that should throw a stronger spark with 12v. So that is what I am aiming for. I didn’t quite follow the tape on the end tip. Are you saying to disconnect the existing wire to the coil and just tape off the end? Sorry for being slow - I am not great with electrical...
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#13
11-05-2018, 11:51 AM
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If you use a 12v power source to the coil you will not need the original wire from the ignition switch. But it will still be there and active unless you cut it out of the loom. If it is still there and active it should be taped off to prevent shorts.
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#14
11-06-2018, 02:31 PM
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I ran a wire from the "IGN" spade in the fusebox to the coil when I converted to Pertronix.
Added an inline fuse too. 10 years and zero issues. |
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#15
11-07-2018, 10:27 PM
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Ok thanks guys. Been sidetracked. So the recipe is as follows: jumper between ign 1 and 2. Remove existing coil wire to + and tape off. Run new wire from ign spade on fuse box to + coil. Sound right? This should give me 12v to coil.
I don’t really understand why I need the jumper, but as I said, I don’t know electrical. On a related note, I bought a multimeter to see what the coil would show with enigine on. It said 3. Could that really be right? Thanks again all... |
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#16
11-08-2018, 03:22 PM
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The ign terminal in the fuse box is probably connected to the acc terminal on the switch. It would only be energized in the run or acc mode switch position. A car would start this way but only fire at that moment you went from start to run mode as the acc terminal is not usually energized in start mode but is energized in run mode.
If you do that to get 12v for the Pertronix there is no point to jumping the ign 1 and ign 2 as you are not trying to use those terminals. But they would still be "hot" at the coil and need the ends taped. Unless you still use the factory or a NORS coil which would want the lower voltage from the resistance wire. |
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#17
11-21-2018, 08:01 PM
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Quote:
Swapping wires at ignition switch nets you resisted voltage at coil positive during crank and full volts during run. Usually works but cold start conditions and less than full charge might be fussy. Best bet for 12 volts at coil during crank is run a wire from "I" side of SOLENOID to coil positive and find a switched 12 volts elsewhere.(such as power TO an accessory switch) The voltage follows path of least resistance and the resistor wire will still be hot, but inconsequential, as far as coil performance. Last edited by BruceWilkie; 11-21-2018 at 08:18 PM. |
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