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#1
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High compression Trophy 4
Hey there everyone, the name is Mike. Proud new owner of a '62 Tempest Le Mans. I want to keep the 3.2 in the car, but I want some more power out of the thing without boosting. Any suggestions on how to go about getting some good power out of this thing?
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#2
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62 had several different HP RATINGS using the 195. Base engine was the dished piston 1BBL carb, standard camshaft, 110HP. Next was the high compression 1BBL, flat top pistons,everything else is the same, 140 HP. Then the 4BBL 4 cylinder, it got a longer duration camshaft, the flat top pistons, 2 1/4 exhaust (up from 1 3/4), the 4BBL intake is a curved runner intake with no right angles in the casting, that was rated at 166HP. Now, what do you want to do? If you want to keep it looking stock, here are some things you can do. If you do not have the 4BBL intake get one. There are a couple of companies that will do custom grinds on the camshaft. Get the cam ground to the longer duration profile, if possible get it done as a roller instead of a flat tappet. Head work, replace the push in rocker studs with threaded. You will need to block the rocker oiler supply line in the head. The original has small oil weep holes in the rocker studs. With the new lifters, convert to the modern oiling through the lifters and pushrods. Port and polish the heads. If you have the 1 3/4 exhaust system upgrade to the 2 1/2. Recurve the distributor for the 4BBL. With those things you will be at 200 HP or better.
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If you built it, drive it. red 62 Tempest total stock restoration. white 62 Tempest modified, 61 389 Tri-Power, and a conventional drive train. |
#3
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The factory made a SD version of the 4 cyc.Used a 306 head,a alu 4 bbl intake and SD AFB carb.It used a solid lifter cam.All of these parts are impossible to find these days.You wont be able to get your cam reground for rollers.Might be able to get it reground for solids.Isky reground my cam for hyd lifters.When you put in the screwin studs and go to a oil thru the rocker system you really dont have to block the feed in the block as there is not place for the oil to go.You should look into better rods when you do the build.If your going to want to run street pump gas you will need to watch the CR.I raced a 4 cyc back in 62 when all the hipo stuff was avail.Now people will look at your from Mars when you open the hood,ask where the rest of your engine is.Good luck with your project.In reality the easiest way to get a lot more HP is the turbo.The 389 SD engine was 368 HP so if you half that your at 184 HP.Tom
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#4
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Thanks for the reply guys. I do not mind changing from the stock look at all. I was thinking new rods and pistons, new head, reground cam, a 4bbl intake, header, and one of those new self-learning EFI systems. This car will be mostly for street use so I would need to keep the ability to use premium gas.
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#5
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unless you want to have a intake made your stuck with a 61-64 head.The best of those heads is a 63 421-64 GTO 716 head.Little lager valves.Going to a later head or a after market will require some manifold thought.Many have used a alu single plane intake and cut it up to use just one side of it.Science out you head-intake choice first as it will make a diff on how the pistons are made.Tom
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#6
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Something I did with mine, It came with the 4-barrel carb, It's a
63 low compression motor, I used a good dbl-roller timing chain and I advanced the cam 4 degrees and didn't use the chain tensioner. I know every one say's you can't do that it will wear the chain out early, Well it's been working great for over 25,000 miles with no stretch what so ever. The car is very pepy and gets good mileage if I keep my foot out of it And drive it normal LOL GT. |
#7
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I am NOT opposed to getting a new single-plane and cutting it up if that's what I must do to use a newer head.
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#8
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Just numbers in a check book.If you can do the fab work your self it will help.A holley street dominator would work.The best is to get a brand new intake as it will weld better with no impurity's.I think KRE sells the knock off HSD.Tom
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#9
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I think someone was trying to sell a single head on this site.Might look into it.As I remember a gen 1 or 2 bird factory RA exhaust manifold works on the tempest so that would avoid getting a header.A good carb would be a factory 326 AFB.A factory SD 4 AFB will be stupid expensive even if you could find one.The factory 4 cyc chains are better than most you can buy even if you dont run the tension system.I chose to run them.Remember HP is in the head,most other stuff like expensive rods and piston dont add virtually anything except for longevity.On the 4 being a 180 crank the balance job is pretty easy.Tom
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#10
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You didn’t say what transmission you have in it? The auto, no matter how much you improve the motor will be sluggish at best. A standard trans will be a better “performances” choice, 3 speed the best, strongest.. The Achilles heel for the transaxle is the ring and pinion.
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"I think we have more machinery of government than is necessary, too many parasites living on the labor of the industrious." --Thomas Jefferson, letter to William Ludlow, 1824 |
#11
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I'm pretty sure mine is the 2 speed auto. I know I'm gonna have to change that for something like you said, a little stronger and less sluggish. I was going to ask next what I should be looking for in that department. The 3 speed manual is better than the 4 speed? Can I find a transaxle off of one of the v8 models and use the thicker diameter torque shaft on my 4 cylinder crankshaft without modifications?
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#12
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The auto is actually stronger than either man tran and the 3 speed stronger than the 4 speed.The auto is basically a powerglide and is a 2 speed and like Jay said is sluggish.As also said the R&P is the weak link but lives much better with the auto.Tom
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#13
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Can these transaxles withstand any kind of abuse, or will I be better off converting to a normal tranny/rear end combo?
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#14
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My 468 auto has withstood me "flooring it" for over 30 years.
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#15
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here comes the rabbit hole!!
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"I think we have more machinery of government than is necessary, too many parasites living on the labor of the industrious." --Thomas Jefferson, letter to William Ludlow, 1824 |
#16
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The auto V8 version is pretty strong,as said the R&P is the weak link.Keep a sane tire on it and you will be fine with a lot of HP.Tom
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#17
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mchlmacdonald, I have a Torker intake that was cut in half, that I used. If you are interested, I will sell. Let me know. Thanks Rusty
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Blown 4cyl's to the front |
#18
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I might be interested if he isn't, how much rusty?
GT. |
#19
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bluegoast, How does free sound to you. PM me your address Thanks Rusty
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Blown 4cyl's to the front |
#20
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Thanks, I owe ya one.
GT. |
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