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Old 09-27-2018, 09:26 PM
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Default Battery shims

So the top post terminal on the negative side won't tighten down any farther and the battery shims I've found are for the larger positive post, is there any reason why I can't use some copper shim stock? Just wondering if there could be an undesirable reaction between the lead post and the copper.

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Old 09-27-2018, 10:41 PM
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Are you using a positive cable on the negative side? They are bigger diameter.

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Old 09-28-2018, 08:29 AM
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Lead, copper, nickel, gold, silver is fine.

Some brass is fine, and others not.

Suspect: alum, magnesium, iron, some stainless not so good.

All about affinity to transfer ions; electroplating

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Old 09-28-2018, 09:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hobbygto65 View Post
Are you using a positive cable on the negative side? They are bigger diameter.
This ^

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Old 09-28-2018, 10:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hobbygto65 View Post
Are you using a positive cable on the negative side? They are bigger diameter.
No, it's the factory cables on a 2008 Honda CRV. I can tighten the clamp to the max and still lift it off with two fingers.

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Old 09-28-2018, 11:46 AM
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I'd say a copper shim is ok...coat the outside to minimize the green stuff growth...(copper sulfate, I believe).

george

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Old 09-28-2018, 01:57 PM
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I have seen them, no idea who made them... these were lead...

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Old 09-28-2018, 02:52 PM
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What about new cables, new battery, or both? And I assume it's a top post battery right?

I've seen it a couple of times years ago. One of the above or both fixed it. And yes it was on one of my cars with Sears batteries and worn out cable clamps.

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Old 09-28-2018, 03:09 PM
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it is a brand new battery, new cables are out of the question as this thing is wired much differently than our old Pontiacs. I've got a lead shim on the positive side but the negative post is much smaller diameter. I'm going to use the copper but I just wanted to make sure the copper wouldn't interact with the lead and cause a bigger problem.

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Old 09-28-2018, 03:36 PM
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When you think about it, copper wire is "molded" into the lead clamp. I would think a copper shim would be fine. I'd even use a small sheet metal screw threaded in between the clamp and battery post. Would look the prettiest, but would be tight. Maybe even tighter than with the shim.

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Old 09-28-2018, 06:35 PM
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If you are not going to change the end at least, and want a quick fix, try this. Take the nut off put a larger nut over the threads and put the original nut back on against the bigger nut and tighten up.

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Old 09-28-2018, 11:17 PM
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Let me know if you need some lead shims. I got them from Western Auto in 1969 and haven't found a use for them yet.
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Old 09-29-2018, 01:32 AM
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An easy way to close it up some is to oval it with a BFH. Yeah, it won't work as it should (less contact area) but it will (assuming it didn't crack) work.

Is there anything hammers can't fix?

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Old 09-29-2018, 01:31 PM
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Default Repair end

https://www.autozone.com/batteries-s...31027_310094_0

I had to use two of these on the old ladies 2014 Accord because of corrosion, just cut, strip, insert and tighten.
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Old 09-29-2018, 02:04 PM
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The clamp is maybe "stretched" from over tightening. If you can, get vise grips and straighten the round area to make the hole smaller.

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Old 09-30-2018, 09:12 PM
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Fiedlerh, I've never seen lead shims like that.... ever. I thought someone was pulling our leg.

I've done the larger nut trick on the bolt to tighten up the clamp. 63, put some die-electric grease on the terminals to keep away corrosion.

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  #17  
Old 10-01-2018, 09:07 PM
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They used to sell them in hardware and auto parts stores. Back then, I guess it was more common for battery posts to corrode away or battery clamps to stretch out. I remember back then people tried all sorts of tricks to make a battery last longer like using miracle additives and charging schemes.

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