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THE LOBBY A gathering place. Introductions, sports, showin' off your ride, birthday-anniversary-milestone, achievements, family oriented humor. |
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#1
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So the top post terminal on the negative side won't tighten down any farther and the battery shims I've found are for the larger positive post, is there any reason why I can't use some copper shim stock? Just wondering if there could be an undesirable reaction between the lead post and the copper.
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1963 Catalina 2 door hardtop 1968 Catalina 2 door sedan |
#2
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Are you using a positive cable on the negative side? They are bigger diameter.
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#3
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Lead, copper, nickel, gold, silver is fine.
Some brass is fine, and others not. Suspect: alum, magnesium, iron, some stainless not so good. All about affinity to transfer ions; electroplating |
#4
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This ^
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#5
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No, it's the factory cables on a 2008 Honda CRV. I can tighten the clamp to the max and still lift it off with two fingers.
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1963 Catalina 2 door hardtop 1968 Catalina 2 door sedan |
#6
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I'd say a copper shim is ok...coat the outside to minimize the green stuff growth...(copper sulfate, I believe).
george
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"...out to my ol'55, I pulled away slowly, feeling so holy, god knows i was feeling alive"....written by Tom Wait from the Eagles' Live From The Forum |
#7
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I have seen them, no idea who made them... these were lead...
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1977 Black Trans Am 180 HP Auto, essentially base model T/A. I'm the original owner, purchased May 7, 1977. Shut it off Shut it off Buddy, I just shut your Prius down... ![]() |
#8
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What about new cables, new battery, or both? And I assume it's a top post battery right?
I've seen it a couple of times years ago. One of the above or both fixed it. And yes it was on one of my cars with Sears batteries and worn out cable clamps.
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![]() Gary Get in, ShuT Up, Hang On! Member of the Baltimore Built Brotherhood MY GTO built 4th Week of March 1966 "Crusin' Is Not A Crime" Keep yer stick on the ice. |
#9
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it is a brand new battery, new cables are out of the question as this thing is wired much differently than our old Pontiacs. I've got a lead shim on the positive side but the negative post is much smaller diameter. I'm going to use the copper but I just wanted to make sure the copper wouldn't interact with the lead and cause a bigger problem.
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1963 Catalina 2 door hardtop 1968 Catalina 2 door sedan |
#10
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When you think about it, copper wire is "molded" into the lead clamp. I would think a copper shim would be fine. I'd even use a small sheet metal screw threaded in between the clamp and battery post. Would look the prettiest, but would be tight. Maybe even tighter than with the shim.
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#11
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If you are not going to change the end at least, and want a quick fix, try this. Take the nut off put a larger nut over the threads and put the original nut back on against the bigger nut and tighten up.
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#12
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Let me know if you need some lead shims. I got them from Western Auto in 1969 and haven't found a use for them yet.
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http://www.pontiacpower.org/ |
#13
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An easy way to close it up some is to oval it with a BFH. Yeah, it won't work as it should (less contact area) but it will (assuming it didn't crack) work.
Is there anything hammers can't fix? ![]() |
#14
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https://www.autozone.com/batteries-s...31027_310094_0
I had to use two of these on the old ladies 2014 Accord because of corrosion, just cut, strip, insert and tighten.
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“Nothing in the world can take the place of persistence. Talent will not; nothing is more common than unsuccessful men with talent. Genius will not; unrewarded genius is almost a proverb. Education will not; the world is full of educated derelicts. Persistence and determination alone are omnipotent. The slogan Press On! has solved and always will solve the problems of the human race.” ― Calvin Coolidge |
#15
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The clamp is maybe "stretched" from over tightening. If you can, get vise grips and straighten the round area to make the hole smaller.
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1968 Firebird 400 RAII M21, 3.31 12 bolt, Mayfair Maize. 1977 Trans Am W72 400, TH350, 3.23 T Top Everyone you will ever meet knows something you don't. Bill Nye. Last edited by TedRamAirII; 09-29-2018 at 02:23 PM. |
#16
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Fiedlerh, I've never seen lead shims like that.... ever. I thought someone was pulling our leg.
I've done the larger nut trick on the bolt to tighten up the clamp. 63, put some die-electric grease on the terminals to keep away corrosion.
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![]() Gary Get in, ShuT Up, Hang On! Member of the Baltimore Built Brotherhood MY GTO built 4th Week of March 1966 "Crusin' Is Not A Crime" Keep yer stick on the ice. |
#17
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They used to sell them in hardware and auto parts stores. Back then, I guess it was more common for battery posts to corrode away or battery clamps to stretch out. I remember back then people tried all sorts of tricks to make a battery last longer like using miracle additives and charging schemes.
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http://www.pontiacpower.org/ |
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