[1967Tempest]

I just installed a Quick Performance with a Ford 9” and Eaton trutrac posi. Amazing!! But I’ve replaced the master with a Disc/Disc master and prop valve and bled the brakes a bunch with zero pedal.

If I pump the brake pedal I can get brake pressure and stop quick. But after I let off, I have no pedal pressure again.

I called QP and they said the at the e-brake cable, (which isn’t hooked up) should add some pre-load. Thoughts??
Thanks.

[Lemans64]

The brake is how the callipers adjust I believe in that style calliper. Another way to check is to clamp off the rear flex hose and see if pedal
feels better. if it does, it would be in the rear callipers.

[jwcfbd]

Does your brake lever have another hole in it? My Firebird came with drum brakes and when I switched over to disk I had to move the linkage to the lower hole on the lever. In my picture you can see the upper hole just above the linkage. You may not be fully actuating the master cylinder so you're not getting full pressure to the rear brakes.

[1967Tempest]

It does have two holes. And one thing that I noticed, is that the MC has a spacer in the rear of the body.

From what I read, the manual brakes had the longer throw rod hole and the space between the mounting point and the rod was deeper. I will try to move the rod today, as It did kinds feel like It wasn't engaging completely.

Thanks.

[indymanjoe]

Are you running a rear sway bar? in the process of installing my QP 9 and it looks like i may have to trim the jack pad to get it to fit..

[jwcfbd]

Originally Posted by 1967Tempest

It does have two holes. And one thing that I noticed, is that the MC has a spacer in the rear of the body.

From what I read, the manual brakes had the longer throw rod hole and the space between the mounting point and the rod was deeper. I will try to move the rod today, as It did kinds feel like It wasn't engaging completely.

Thanks.

I just when back and looked and my order from Jeggs. When I bought my MC I also got and extended brake pedal rod. Here are all the parts I have.

908-4750
BOOSTER PEDAL ROD EXT KIT
$39.99
1
$39.99
908-4650A
BOOSTER BRACKET GM 67-72
$29.99
1
$29.99
555-63000
STAGE CONTROL SOLENOID
$39.99
1
$39.99
555-63005
INSTALL KIT STAGE CONTROL
$26.99
1
$26.99
908-2123NA
8"DUAL BRK BOOST/MSTR CYL
$319.99

[1967Tempest]

Originally Posted by indymanjoe

Are you running a rear sway bar? in the process of installing my QP 9 and it looks like i may have to trim the jack pad to get it to fit..

Yeah didnt fit because of the jack pad. But I have been looking on Summit and a bunch of people ask questions on rear sway bars specifically to solve this issue. When I make my choice I will post it here.

[indymanjoe]

10th post has pics

https://www.chevelles.com/forums/16-...-ford-9-a.html

[Geoff]

Make sure the calipers are not reversed, L & R. Bleed nipple needs to be at the top of the cal.

[JLMounce]

You must have the e-brake system hooked up on e-brake calipers. It’s not optional. Additionally the e-brake needs to be adjusted properly. This directly effects pedal height and firmness.

To test this, start the car have somebody on the break and take a pair of pliers and clamp the soft line before the t in the rear. Your pedal will likely be high and firm. If that’s the case the calipers are not adjusted properly.

If you don’t want to run an e-brake or never intend to use it, swap the calipers for non e brake calipers.

[1967Tempest]

Originally Posted by JLMounce

You must have the e-brake system hooked up on e-brake calipers. It’s not optional. Additionally the e-brake needs to be adjusted properly. This directly effects pedal height and firmness.

To test this, start the car have somebody on the break and take a pair of pliers and clamp the soft line before the t in the rear. Your pedal will likely be high and firm. If that’s the case the calipers are not adjusted properly.

If you don’t want to run an e-brake or never intend to use it, swap the calipers for non e brake calipers.

I def wanna run the ebrake. The stock drum lengths are a hair short. But I am having a tough time trying to get the cable into the coupler for the cables. I will try this when I get some time. Maybe try making the e-brake "on" on both side will give me enough slack to hook them up.


Thanks!!

[JLMounce]

Originally Posted by 1967Tempest

I def wanna run the ebrake. The stock drum lengths are a hair short. But I am having a tough time trying to get the cable into the coupler for the cables. I will try this when I get some time. Maybe try making the e-brake "on" on both side will give me enough slack to hook them up.


Thanks!!

When I was dealing with this on my wife's Chevelle, it was easier to unhook the cable under the car, mount to the caliper, then hook it back up under the car. Still not easy.

I'm making an assumption here that you are using what are known as the GM metric calipers with integrated e-brake. You'll have a single piston caliper with a 5" mount spacing and likely the e-brake spring is on the caliper itself, not on the e-brake line?

Those calipers need to be adjusted dry first, before having fluid sent through them to be bled. If this was not done, you'll want to unhook the caliper from the brake lines and crack open the bleeder, then let it drain for about 15 minutes. From there perform the e-brake adjustment which should get the pad within about 1/16th inch from the rotor surface. After that you would then rebleed the rear calipers once the e-brake cable is hooked up.

Here's a link to instructions on the adjustment.

http://www.classicperform.com/Instru...structions.pdf

On e-brake calipers that utilize the pad, you must routinely utilize the e-brake as it self adjusts. The only time you don't have to do that is if you have a secondary drum in the rotor hat that the e-brake acts on. Otherwise, the space between the pad and the rotor surface must be in spec, or you end up running out of pedal travel before the pad clamps and you start slowing.

Full disclosure, I could never get my wife's calipers to a point where she was satisfied with the pedal. I purchased a set of non e-brake calipers since it's an auto car and she's never used the e-brake. Pedal instantly was where it needed to be.

[1967Tempest]

Thanks!!!

The rear from Quick Performance is great, but the install instructions, (or lack thereof) is really bad..

Thanks, I ll try that this weekend. The instructions, had fluid in the caliper. Ill try both and report back.

[1967Tempest]

Originally Posted by JLMounce

When I was dealing with this on my wife's Chevelle, it was easier to unhook the cable under the car, mount to the caliper, then hook it back up under the car. Still not easy.

I'm making an assumption here that you are using what are known as the GM metric calipers with integrated e-brake. You'll have a single piston caliper with a 5" mount spacing and likely the e-brake spring is on the caliper itself, not on the e-brake line?

Those calipers need to be adjusted dry first, before having fluid sent through them to be bled. If this was not done, you'll want to unhook the caliper from the brake lines and crack open the bleeder, then let it drain for about 15 minutes. From there perform the e-brake adjustment which should get the pad within about 1/16th inch from the rotor surface. After that you would then rebleed the rear calipers once the e-brake cable is hooked up.

Here's a link to instructions on the adjustment.

http://www.classicperform.com/Instru...structions.pdf

On e-brake calipers that utilize the pad, you must routinely utilize the e-brake as it self adjusts. The only time you don't have to do that is if you have a secondary drum in the rotor hat that the e-brake acts on. Otherwise, the space between the pad and the rotor surface must be in spec, or you end up running out of pedal travel before the pad clamps and you start slowing.

Full disclosure, I could never get my wife's calipers to a point where she was satisfied with the pedal. I purchased a set of non e-brake calipers since it's an auto car and she's never used the e-brake. Pedal instantly was where it needed to be.

Got this done today. What a PITA!!! I havent driven it yet, but the caliper is at least now touching the pads!!

THANKS!!!

[1967Tempest]

Originally Posted by jwcfbd

Does your brake lever have another hole in it? My Firebird came with drum brakes and when I switched over to disk I had to move the linkage to the lower hole on the lever. In my picture you can see the upper hole just above the linkage. You may not be fully actuating the master cylinder so you're not getting full pressure to the rear brakes.

Moved the pedal to the top hole. The pedal "FEELS" better but still goes to the floor and then engages.

I guess Im gonna have to have the wife on the pedal again. I might bench bleed the MC in the car again too. The brake lines are all below the MC so maybe that will help.

Anxious to get the car on the road again. The rear is FUN!!!!!

[jwcfbd]

Originally Posted by 1967Tempest

Moved the pedal to the top hole. The pedal "FEELS" better but still goes to the floor and then engages.

I guess Im gonna have to have the wife on the pedal again. I might bench bleed the MC in the car again too. The brake lines are all below the MC so maybe that will help.

Anxious to get the car on the road again. The rear is FUN!!!!!

Are you using the original push rod? You may need a longer one.

[Old Goat 67]

Originally Posted by 1967Tempest

I guess Im gonna have to have the wife on the pedal again. I might bench bleed the MC in the car again too. The brake lines are all below the MC so maybe that will help.

Anxious to get the car on the road again. The rear is FUN!!!!!

You really need to spend $30 on a pressure bleed setup instead of $40,000 on a divorce lawyer.

Send me a PM with your email address and I'll send you a Word doc showing you how simple and easy it is to do it. You will never go back to pumping a pedal again.

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/affo...-bleeding-kit/


Charles

[TAQuest]

Thought; Sometimes the new master cylinder is bad.

[1967Tempest]

Originally Posted by TAQuest

Thought; Sometimes the new master cylinder is bad.

I thought this as well. I have had DOA parts before. I am gonna try pressure bleeding and if that doesn't work, call Inline Tube and see what we can do. I might put the old Disc/Drum MC back in and get an external regulator like I had before...

[TAQuest]

They could have given you the wrong prop valve. A disc/drum prop valve wouldn't work right.