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#21
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On the surface it seems like a good idea. But I can't tell you how many times I've seen cars in primer that were only supposed to be that way for a year or less, and that was 5 years ago.
It sucks reassembling a vehicle, driving and enjoying it, only to take it back apart to paint it. You go thru the stress and aggravation all over again. Not to mention, I'd be worried about moisture getting under the primer and working into the metal and filler. It would always be in the back of my mind after the car is painted. I can understand doing so from a financial standpoint. You can only do what the budget allows, and going past the budget can bring on a whole new set of problems.
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"Those poor souls have made the fatal mistake of surrounding us. Now we can fire in any direction" 1970 Trans Am RAIII 4 speed 1971 Trans Am 5.3 LM7 1977 Trans Am W72 Y82 1987 Grand National |
#22
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If it's a financial decision to leave it in primer that's fine, but I don't buy into the whole "now that it's painted I'm afraid to drive it" thing. I had a show quality paint job done on my daily driver a few years back, and I still daily drive it. It's picked up a few minor nicks here and there, but it still looks great - you just have to take a little more care when working around it or parking it in public. No big deal.
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#23
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Quote:
At a car show (I got tossed for loosing my cool and cursing a lady out) I had parked my Porsche with the targa top off and the windows up. They had it in the front as a feature car for the show ( 383 twin turbo chevy in the rear of a widebody 911) When I came back to the car, a lady had he 3-4 year old standing on my belt molding holding the top of the glass looking in the car. I lost it, if she was a guy, I would be in jail. I love that no one care about my Pontiac till I pop the hood. |
#24
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A quality paint job with some stone chips looks a million times better than a cheap paint job or straight primer.
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"Those poor souls have made the fatal mistake of surrounding us. Now we can fire in any direction" 1970 Trans Am RAIII 4 speed 1971 Trans Am 5.3 LM7 1977 Trans Am W72 Y82 1987 Grand National |
#25
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It depends on what the final estimate is when we reach that point. If all the body work is done and it’s blocksanded and sealed and all that and the price to finish it is like 5000 that’s one thing but when it’s ready for paint and it’s 10000 dollars I want my car back.
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468/TKO600 Ford thru bolt equipped 64 Tempest Custom. Custom Nocturne Blue with black interior. |
#26
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Whatever it takes to get in the car and drive it before another year comes and goes is what I would do.
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Jeff |
#27
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I do it for a living so it's a little different for me.
Shelling out the money is one thing, and insured properly covers things that may happen, what people don't realize is the time and the intense labor involved, and the 100's or 1000's of hours it takes to do one. Then to come back and fix something that someone else screws up for you, it's not as simple as getting out a paint brush and touch up paint like some people think. I can shoot our car anytime I wish, but choose to leave it in primer. Believe it or not, it grabs as much or more attention than the shiny painted cars I park next to at any cruise night. Not to mention it's super easy to take care of, I never wax it, just blow it off once in a while. It'll be nothing to blow the car apart and paint it when the time comes. It's already blocked straight as a pin. It's not really paint that I'm all that worried about. People think we're nuts just for driving it daily, paint or no paint, lol. |
#28
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We are all about driving them 1st, having fun with them, racing them, etc..
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#29
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That is too cool.
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30+ Years with NAPA. Happy to help with any auto parts questions. |
#30
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Half the colours I see on new trucks and some cars looks just like primer with clear coat over it. anyways.
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#31
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I've Been driving mine around for 2 years now in epoxy primer (DP90) with no problems.
Go for it |
#32
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Yep. As a painter we have a running joke around here among some of the car guys I hang with. Anything that is painted a shade of grey we just call metallic primer, because it's such a bland color anyway. Bugs the guys with the grey cars LOL
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#33
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Also, DP is really DPLF. DP hasn't been available for many years. It was discontinued due to the lead content. It's been DPLF for 20 years, the LF meaning lead-free. It still works well.
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Steve F. |
#34
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I don't think you can get the old DP epoxy any more. PPG discontinued it many years ago due to the lead content. It's been DPLF for 20 years, the LF meaning lead-free. It still works well and would hold up a long time. It might turn chalky after a while, being exposed to the sun and elements, since it's supposed to be topcoated. But it is what I'd use if I were going to drive it in just primer, since it's corrosion resistant and waterproof.
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Steve F. |
#35
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I got away from using that stuff, as well as the other lacquer products when they took the led out of everything.
It's still "okay" but not what it used to be. That's why I went to the urethane 5star years ago. It's a sealer, filler, primer, and direct to metal all in one, sands nice and saves a ton of steps, which saves a ton of time. Comes in the typical grey, white, and black. |
#36
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Correct DPLF48.....white......
FYI, I did paint the jambs before assembly with BC/CC so I didn't have to disassemble for final paint. |
The Following User Says Thank You to jeff chmura For This Useful Post: | ||
#37
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Lol. Sad but true. |
#38
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Steve F. |
#39
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IMHO, I would save up and get your car primed and painted all at once. Don’t spring for a top of the line paint job. If you’re going to drive it, do burnouts or enjoy your car it will get small stone chips. Go for a quality paint job that looks good but unless you plan on never taking it out of the garage top of the line, show quality is wasted money. The majority of people have more respect for a car that looks good and is driven vs a car that looks like a top quality trailer queen.
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1967 GTO, 432 (428+.030), 4-bolt mains, factory Nodular crank, scat rods, icon dished pistons, Lunati HR 243/251@.050, .618/.622 lift, Edelbrock 72cc round port heads, 10.5:1, offy 2-4 intake, Edelbrock 650cfm carbs, Super T10 trans (2.64 first), BOP 10 bolt w/ Eaton posi and 3.36 gears |
#40
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Quote:
__________________
468/TKO600 Ford thru bolt equipped 64 Tempest Custom. Custom Nocturne Blue with black interior. |
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