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#1
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‘65 Trunk Pan fix
Can a 3 piece kit be used to repair this easier than a 1 piece?
Are the repro 3pc kits an exact match for the factory pans? |
#2
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Mine was repaired by the previous owner with a 3 piece. It is not an exact match, It is different that that front center plug. Had i done it i would have gone 1 piece for sure.
__________________
"I know just enough to keep me here, but not enough to get me out" |
#3
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As Cardo said, I believe the new pans are 66-67. Will work fine but some physical difference..
"Bill"! |
#4
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We used the Goodmark three piece on mine. It came out nice but clearly not an exact match. I probably have a couple of photos if that would help.
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#5
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The original trunk pan has a small diamond shape raised every few rows. The repros don't. The lip around the drain plugs is also different. If you need to replace so much where you need all 3 pieces might as well go for the one piece. It serms Goodmark makes the pan for most of the suppliers and it is made in Taiwan. I ordered the trunk pan from different manufacturers and they all had the Goodmark sticker with the different manufacturers sicker right on top.
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#6
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My pans were in about the same shape as yours. I ordered the Goodmark 3 piece pans and then grafted in the "64/65" conversion kit. I'll post some pictures later. I have only epoxied and urethane primered them so the final coat is not on, but I think they came out nice.
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#7
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Here they are. I still need to to do some more work, sand the primer, etc.
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#8
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They do look nice. You still need to punch the drain hole by the left inner fender. I wish the people making repop parts would make them "correct" for us. I would pay the extra gladly.
"Bill"! |
#9
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Looks good.
Do you need to lift the body off the frame with a 3 piece kit? Does the 3 piece kit go all the way to the wheelwell seams and to the covered holes? I think cutting out a patch would be easier than replacing all the way to the seams all around. |
#10
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Should not need to raise body with kit. I did as I used the opportunity to change rubber body mounts all around. The three piece kits I purchased covered to ww seams and up the trunk front but the brand purchased did not have any holes (round or oval) cut out. You may find that cutting a large piece/patch from a one piece trunk floor would work for you. Us old people, with joint replacements, found that securing the left section, and then the right ; while standing on the garage floor thru the yet to be secured middle of the trunk...worked fair. Still had to crawl in (after bracing up to floor bottom-between frame rails) but did not seem so bad.
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#11
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I used the 3 piece in my car. Its not the greatest.Fit was great , but the 2 seams that join the 3 pieces is a pain to make look right.If I used another 3 piece , I would have joined the three sections (2 seams) with SEM panel adhesive as you would be able to lay it flat and have a very small edge to cover insted of a long weld , or row of spot welds.
I wish I had known that a 1 piece was available. If I had to do it over I would try the one piece.I think it will be tight , but you should be able to squeeze/ wiggle it into the trunk through the trunk opening. The 3 piece did fit well in all the edges. Its your choice. |
#12
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I have always wondered since now they often use adhesive to put a quarter panel on if some panel adhesive would work on floors/trunks.
__________________
Skip Fix 1978 Trans Am original owner 10.99 @ 124 pump gas 455 E heads, NO Bird ever! 1981 Black SE Trans Am stockish 6X 400ci, turbo 301 on a stand 1965 GTO 4 barrel 3 speed project 2004 GTO Pulse Red stock motor computer tune 13.43@103.4 1964 Impala SS 409/470ci 600 HP stroker project 1979 Camaro IAII Edelbrock head 500" 695 HP 10.33@132 3595lbs |
#13
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Quote:
My biggest gripe with the panels was all the prep work I had to do before hand around the wheel wells. I'll bet I placed and pulled each side 20 times to get that part right. Perhaps the one piece panels are better in that regard. |
#14
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https://www.dannypascoemetalshaping....-quarter..html
Found this link to a repair job. Looks like a lot of spot welds to drill out if using a 1 piece pan. |
#15
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Oh yeah. Stuff works great.
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#16
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Sorry, never had a reason to measure and car is put up for the winter. Order one from our host so you can measure yourself. That way you can be sure.Good luck.
"Bill"! |
#17
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Quote:
For 1964 I don't believe there is much difference between the 1964 and 1965 panels, except for the surface coating. If you are looking to present a concourse or original appearing panel, the greatest discrepancy you may wish to address is the front center drain hole area in the lower panel. The picture you show in Post No. 1 shows the proper cross with the 1" dia. drain hole centered within the cross. There are several pictures in the Pasco Link in Post No. 14 that shows the incorrect oval indentation, rather than the cross. It is my experience that this is what you will receive when ordering a replacement panel. Nothing beats the original panels for fit and appearance, so if you can patch the original, I have always felt that is the way to go. If not,.hopefully, you can save the cross area from your original panel and weld it into place within your replacement panel. The original floor pans were spot welded to under-floor braces. These spot welds along the two braces above the fuel tank typically ran in pairs 3.5 - 4" apart side-to-side with 2.25 - 3.25" separating each pair of welds running front to back. Other areas of the trunk floor also were provided with spot welds with differing gaps and spacing. In total, you had over 100 weld marks visible in the floor panel. The underside bracing would have also received reciprocating weld marks. Your replacement panels and bracing kits will be void of these weld marks. Depending upon how serious you want to get, a 1/4" dia. punch and a heavy hammer can restore these marks to your replacement floor pan and braces. Of course, this needs to done prior to the application of the surface coating. Depending upon the application levels of the speckle coating on your '65, this may not be as critical as it is for us '64 owners that use only a coating of lower body color paint. Care should be taken not to over-prime the floor panel as this will tend to erase the weld marks. The trunk mat will not cover all of these weld marks. The underside bracing would still be visible for both years. I am not familiar with all the various vendors that stamp these trunk floor panels, but also suspect that one or two vendors supply most of the hobby. It is critical that you save your original panel so as to compare against the replacement panels for any variations. A good body man can return the various markings to these panels. Hokie1984 All trunk floor pan drain holes are 1'" dia. and filled with a rubber plug. Last edited by JAKE 64; 01-07-2020 at 12:27 AM. |
The Following User Says Thank You to JAKE 64 For This Useful Post: | ||
#18
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The car also has some through rust on the driver side fender support rail, probably due to the battery acid.
Have never seen that before. Usually the inner fender under the battery rusts before the fender. Other than that, rust free. These cars sometimes rust in the strangest places. |
#19
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This is why the trunk pan got shot. Window channel under vinyl top is rusted. Has anyone repaired the channel before? Does it require a donor chann el? Is the vinyl top pattern still available?
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#20
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I replaced mine.
They call it a tulip panel (at least that is what I bought) This here is one. Pretty easy fix I even used lead at the side seams like the factory https://www.ebay.com/itm/1964-1965-C...UAAOSwWdZZZjuK |
The Following User Says Thank You to LATECH For This Useful Post: | ||
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