FAQ |
Members List |
Social Groups |
Calendar |
Search |
Today's Posts |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Finally got my rear set up and started putting in the pinion with the new seal. As I drove in the seal, I thought it would have a more positive stop, but it has gone past the face of the rear. Picture attached to compensate for my poor description. Anyway, at this point I think I was supposed to stop driving the seal when it becomes flush? There is no lip on the seal to indicate when it is done. At this point it is up against the rear pinion bearing. I do not want to continue assembling the rear until I figure this out.
Thanks Drew |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
You should stop when the seal is flush with the housing.
__________________
1967 Firechicken, 499", Edl heads, 262/266@0.050" duration and 0.627"/0.643 lift SR cam, 3.90 gear, 28" tire, 3550#. 10.01@134.3 mph with a 1.45 60'. Still WAY under the rollbar rule. |
The Following User Says Thank You to AG For This Useful Post: | ||
#3
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Thanks, thats what I figured. I wrongly assumed that there would be a hard stop when the seal was set. Ill pick up another seal tomorrow and start over...
|
#4
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Before you put the seal in put the yoke on until it bottoms out on the bearing and tighten the bolt down to get a reference point of the seal location.
__________________
1967 Firechicken, 499", Edl heads, 262/266@0.050" duration and 0.627"/0.643 lift SR cam, 3.90 gear, 28" tire, 3550#. 10.01@134.3 mph with a 1.45 60'. Still WAY under the rollbar rule. |
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to AG For This Useful Post: | ||
#5
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
I hate getting those lipless seals out unless the pinion is already out!
reminds me all too much of a freeze out pug but with even less room!
__________________
I do stuff for reasons. |
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to 25stevem For This Useful Post: | ||
#6
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
psst...don't forget to load it with grease!!! don't want it to run dry.
![]() |
The Following User Says Thank You to 67Fbird For This Useful Post: | ||
#7
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Checkout this video about seals on a 12 bolt in 69. At about 37 minutes. I know it's different from your 8.5 but good info none the less.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DRWhDRIaR6w
__________________
68 Firebird. IA2 block, 505 cu in, E-head, Solid roller 3650 weight. Reid TH400 4:11 gear. 29" slick. Best so far 10.12@133 mph. 1.43 60 ft. 76 Trans am, TKX .81 o/d, 3.73 Moser rearend, 468 with KRE D-ports, Doug headers, 3" Exh. |
#8
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
I use a piece of 1/8" wire around the seal on the 12 bolts. I like davin, did a good video on the 12 bolt dilema.
I have yet to see a 8.5 that needs a spacer though. I wonder if there are now a one size fits all seal?
__________________
"The Future Belongs to those who are STILL Willing to get their Hands Dirty" .. my Grandfather |
#9
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
None of that is necessary on the 12 bolt if you get the right pinion seal.
Harder to find but the passenger car seal is Ratech 6109. It's shorter than the truck seal. If you just go to the local parts store, all the numbers have been superseded to the 12 bolt truck seal, which measures about .600" The passenger car seal is closer to .450" Most of your setup kits come with the truck seal as well ![]() Just a FYI the original 12 bolt car seals were made without flanges anyway just like the seal Drew posted for his 8.5 10 bolt. They looked just like an axle seal. Unusual to see them that way now as most all of them seem to come with a flange. |
Reply |
|
|