View Full Version : Wheelie bars
I think I will need wheelie bars. The car I bought would do really large wheelstands and it was all steel. My new combo will make more power and I am replacing most of the parts on the front end with fiberglass. What length bars should I use and what is a good brand?
I think I will need wheelie bars. The car I bought would do really large wheelstands and it was all steel. My new combo will make more power and I am replacing most of the parts on the front end with fiberglass. What length bars should I use and what is a good brand?
TOP 452
11-25-2004, 05:38 PM
Just put 54" from sand w race cars
bmpmdf
11-25-2004, 06:08 PM
Why not reset the suspension?
LiL Jack
11-27-2004, 02:30 PM
Mine are 60 inches long, but I have ladder bars thats why mine are 60". You might want to try some screw in limiters in the A-Arms a friend of mine has them without whelliebars and he just had a 1.31 60 foot time on a 10.5W tire.
PONTIAC DUDE
11-27-2004, 04:37 PM
Adjust the chassis first. Then use them as a last resort.
A lot of people use them as a crutch. http://forums.performanceyears.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_frown.gif
This is a mini tubbed car with 31x13.5 slicks and IS a ladder bar suspended car. I might be wrong, but even with limiters on the front I think I will still need wheelie bars.
John Bailey (GTOKID)
11-27-2004, 05:16 PM
my car will 60 foot faster with out them...and its more fun...lol
LiL Jack
11-29-2004, 07:12 PM
If you have the wheeliebars set too low they will eat up ET. Its a nice saftey factor, but you should install the limiters also it will make the car more tunable.I'll send you some pics of my limiters also whenever I get my car out of the trailer.
PONTIAC DUDE
11-30-2004, 04:59 PM
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by LiL Jack:
If you have the wheeliebars set too low they will eat up ET. Its a nice saftey factor, but you should install the limiters also it will make the car more tunable.I'll send you some pics of my limiters also whenever I get my car out of the trailer. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
And <span class="ev_code_RED">Wheelie Boy. </span> should know ................. http://forums.performanceyears.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_eek.gif
The wheelie King.
Also make sure you have your Kill switch above the rear bumper if you run without them. Bwahahahahahaha.
bmpmdf
12-01-2004, 01:18 AM
Where is your centerline at now with the ladderbars?
Ladder bars are new to me. How do I find the centerline? is it the mounting point?
Don Kennedy
12-01-2004, 09:21 PM
A ladder bar is hitting the tires very, very, very hard every run big time. I would have the wheelie bars on only as a safety feature as high as possible just in case . If it were me I would set the rear shocks up on full hard with the front end on full tight and then hold on. As the chassis really has very little adjustment, which might not be all bad as I have been lost on the set up for the track I am running at many times with my 4 link
bmpmdf
12-02-2004, 12:33 AM
Not the answer, (there are books on it) but something to check for you. At the front of your ladder bars, is there brackets to relocated the front of them? If so, is the locating bolts in the top, middle or bottom holes?
rumair
12-02-2004, 06:45 AM
i'm interested in this subject too, but not for the same reason. i'm trying to figure out how to make my car leave better without having to go to a 10.5" tire.
byron- i have those brackets on my chassis engineering ladder bar setup. where should the locating bolts be set in order to hit the tires as hard as possible? i've also limited the travel on my front suspension (this helped smooth things out after the front comes back down), but i still have several more inches of adjustment left if i need it.
gem66
12-02-2004, 07:16 AM
I found some real good information on understanding four link and ladder bar setup on this link. It seems that hitting the hardest is not always best. What you really want is the most efficient launch. Shocks, springs, pinion angle, ...etc. The entire setup has to work together.
http://www.baselinesuspensions.com/info/Launching_A_Drag_Car.htm
LiL Jack
12-02-2004, 06:25 PM
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by KGTO:
Ladder bars are new to me. How do I find the centerline? is it the mounting point? <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Mine are in the center hole.
Ray Cox
12-02-2004, 06:40 PM
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by LiL Jack:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by KGTO:
Ladder bars are new to me. How do I find the centerline? is it the mounting point? <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Mine are in the center hole. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Jack has a center hole? must mean he has 3...if he has 3 holes he must not have any _ _ _ _ S http://forums.performanceyears.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif
Mine are in the bottom hole. There was a lot of time spent setting up the suspension before I bought the car and I think it was working well, so I don't want to screw it up http://forums.performanceyears.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif With it being raced all steel and a 413 motor only it was running 10.teens to low 10.20's with 1.30's for a short time. It also left straight.
Ray Cox
12-02-2004, 08:55 PM
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by KGTO:
Mine are in the bottom hole. There was a lot of time spent setting up the suspension before I bought the car and I think it was working well, so I don't want to screw it up http://forums.performanceyears.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif With it being raced all steel and a 413 motor only it was running 10.teens to low 10.20's with 1.30's for a short time. It also left straight. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>the lowest setting is the most agressive, that is causing the car to come up if you raise it 1 it will tame it down, a 5.00 magnetic protracter/anglefinder from sears is the best way to check it if you do move it up be sure to check the pinion angle as well
PONTIAC DUDE
12-03-2004, 05:02 AM
And also after you change the bar setting. Remember that you have to work with other areas if the change happensto go to slightly to the worst.
Sometimes Ya gotta work the front, back, shock settings, travel, etc, etc....... all to get the agressive stand up attitude out of the car and still increase 60 ft'er's.
Just cause I run a stock suspension car now doesn't mean I haven't built and raced a lot of 4 link and ladderbars cars in the past. http://forums.performanceyears.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_wink.gif
Just remember to write down every change and what happens. Take into consideration track changes throughout the day and ask other racers if changes occured to the track also.
I have seen people make changes with the track going away with air temps go up and say it didn't work. http://forums.performanceyears.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_frown.gif
Always double check all results. One pass isn't a given either. Don't change lanes. Do your same routine everytime. I'm sure you know the drill.
BTW: The Alston chassis book and Video is a great reference source to have. http://forums.performanceyears.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_wink.gif
Hope this helps.