Hardblock

[Chambers]

Where can hardblock be obtained and approx how much would be needed for a 455 and what is the cost

[Chambers]

Where can hardblock be obtained and approx how much would be needed for a 455 and what is the cost

[Scott Rex]

I use the Moroso block filler. (pn 35570) Jegs has it for $39.99. It was enough to fill my 455 to above the front water holes.

[WARPed]

Can one hardblock a motor, full or partial, after all machine work is done? What I mean by this is to do it as an after thought and wasn't planned originally.

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10.854@123.44
6.947@100.65
brooksa@gte.net

[BVR421]

#When the cement sets up it will swell and distort to some degree the block. Cylinders slightly out of round, main bores slightly off etc. Do it after mag and cleaning and BEFORE any machining operations. Same with aftermarket rod bolts, they clamp tighter and egg the hole so install the bolts BEFORE resizing.

[Scott Rex]

BVR is absolutey right. The block must be filled before the machine work is done.

[WARPed]

That's what I was afraid of. Oh well, I will have to wait until next time around.
Thanks gents


------------------
10.854@123.44
6.947@100.65
brooksa@gte.net

[Chambers]

Is there another product available that can be used after machine work has been performed, seems I have the same problem as BVR.

[Gach]

Nope there isn't, sorry to say but just like everyone is saying, has to be done before boring, actually it's like the first thing you do, after the block has been hot tank, or bake. If your going to run a blower
or make over 650 hp, you better hard block it, or you'll be real sorry later, I think Pontiac Dude, Scott, and all other's will tell you the same thing, especially if your running a 455 block, that's already
.030 over, not trying to scare you, just trying to save you allot of money down the road. In my experiences I wouldn't even think about not doing it, making that kind of hp, at least have the block sonic test so you know what you have, you'll find most of the 455's are around .160 -.180 walls to
start with. Ideally you want .180 wall after boring, on the thrush side, if you start off with only .160 your going to end up with only .145 wall ( ok for a street motor )and with out filling you'll end up with a crack cylinder, and have to start all over again, been there, it's not fun. Espeically if you already had steel caps, and studs done.

[Brian Baker]

A cheaper alternative to using "Hardblok" is marine fiberglass resin. It flows alot easier than the concrete compounds that are out there and it can be mixed with either portland cement or metal shavings (iron or aluminum, aluminum would be better). I used this stuff in my street driven 455 when it was built over two years ago and have had no problems with it whatsoever. You can get this stuff at any hardware store, follow the directions carefully and if you mix portland cement with it, DO NOT add water to the cement.

[Chambers]

Brian B. I've used this stuff called marine-tex in the body shop industry before and it seems like it would be perfect, maybe even better than hardblock. this stuff is so hard when cured that it can be machined or tapped, sticks so well that when I left some on a glass mixing board it chipped the glass when I tried to scrape it off with a razor blade. I wanted to see if it expanded or shrunk while curing so I mixed some up and placed it in a glass container and marked the level. It did not rise or crack the glass. If this isn't the perfect block filler I don't what is,especially for an already machined block. This stuff is sold at body shop supply stores and is around $50 qt. There are two kinds, one that is about the consistancy of bondo and the one I tried in my test was the liquid type and would flow well into the water jacket. If I fill my block and want to be able to drive on street, how full should the block be filled? Also how about iron brake lathe shavings as filler, I can get all that I need from where I work? I can also attest to the strength of fiberglass resin as I have used it to anchor chain in holes drilled into concrete slabs used for body shop pulling posts and have seen the slab pulled up before the chain anchor failed,tough stuff when in thick quanities!

[This message has been edited by Chambers (edited 02-11-2000).]

[This message has been edited by Chambers (edited 02-11-2000).]