Ford 9” assembly tips

[70 Lemans]

:) Well I’m ready to start assembling my new center section, axels, and brakes.
Center section is completely ready to install. Axels are from Moser with bearing installed. Axcel seals? Unfortunately I never did anything like this before so all help in guiding me step by step would be greatly appreciated.

Also what should I get for a drive shaft? (Will be my next purchase) Estimated hp is 550 with 600ft tq.

(Brakes should be no problem)

Thanks

Combo,:D

69 400 Block, billet mains, .030 over, eagle stroker kit, ported e-heads 305 310 cfm, port match RPM, comp cam Hydraulic roller 236/246@.05 585/600 lift 110 LS butler timing chain, butler valley pan, 350 Transmission, 3500 stall, Ford 9” with 3.75’s, Strange aluminum center section, 1350 yoke with aluminum suport, Moser 31 spline axels, large ford 11” drum brakes, Cliffs Q-jet, fuel system Comp 140 with A1000 carbureted bypass regulators from Aeromotive. All 8an lines, Mallory filter, fuel cell 15 gal with sump. Cars race weight is approximately 3700lbs

[LeMans70Sport]

Sounds like the exact set up I used. I have small bearing axle housings on mine and it doesn't use axle seals. If the Moser bearings use O-rings on the outside then no axle seal is needed. I havn't had a chance to get mine on the road yet so I can't comment on the lash setting until I know if I've done mine right or wrong.

Steve

[RAIV55]

:) Well I’m ready to start assembling my new center section, axels, and brakes.
Center section is completely ready to install. Axels are from Moser with bearing installed. Axcel seals? Unfortunately I never did anything like this before so all help in guiding me step by step would be greatly appreciated.

Also what should I get for a drive shaft? (Will be my next purchase) Estimated hp is 550 with 600ft tq.

(Brakes should be no problem)Thanks

Combo,:D

69 400 Block, billet mains, .030 over, eagle stroker kit, ported e-heads 305 310 cfm, port match RPM, comp cam Hydraulic roller 236/246@.05 585/600 lift 110 LS butler timing chain, butler valley pan, 350 Transmission, 3500 stall, Ford 9” with 3.75’s, Strange aluminum center section, 1350 yoke with aluminum suport, Moser 31 spline axels, large ford 11” drum brakes, Cliffs Q-jet, fuel system Comp 140 with A1000 carbureted bypass regulators from Aeromotive. All 8an lines, Mallory filter, fuel cell 15 gal with sump. Cars race weight is approximately 3700lbs


Step one.... acquire a service manual. Setting up a rear end isn't a great place to start guessing how thing ought to go together. The manual will supply procedures, torque specs, and illuistrations to make the job turn out well. Most ring and pinion sets have engraved dimensions where they are to be set-up at. Some special tools are needed.

As a side note, if it came with a crush sleeve, replace it with a solid spacer. They are selective fit to obtain pinion bearing preload... Hopefully Strange already did this for you.

No axle seals are needed if you have sealed bearings with an O-ring on the OD.

I'd consider 3 1/2 od driveshaft with 1350 u-joints, might be a little overkill but one less thing to worry about with room to grow in the future.

[fasteddy]

RAIV55, I think the "drop out" came to him ready to "drop in". I would agree with your driveshaft selection, matches mine exactly. I would not attempt to put a gear set in the center myself-like you said--"setting up a rearend is not a great place to start guessing". LOL

[70 Lemans]

How bad is having a crush sleeve? Also after reading my combo to be. Is there any flags that I should know about? This is my first performance build.

Thanks

[fasteddy]

70 Lemans, did I misunderstand you about the centersection being "ready to go"? What spline count are the axles? Posi or spool? Is the housing braced? Who put the third member together-Moser? Which pinion support? All these things are important to know at 550 to 600 hp. Strange built my center section-I put down about 480 to the rear wheels-no problems in 3 years.

[RAIV55]

RAIV55, I think the "drop out" came to him ready to "drop in". I would agree with your driveshaft selection, matches mine exactly. I would not attempt to put a gear set in the center myself-like you said--"setting up a rearend is not a great place to start guessing". LOL

After rereading the original post... I see what you mean. Guess I was thinking he had all the pieces and was putting the "chunk" together himself.

The crush sleeve on a 9" is a deal breaker in my opinion. Gear noise and eventual failures of race style rears, many times can be traced to the pinion bearings losing preload. At the factory level ford used solid spacers on their performance 9"s.

[70 Lemans]

Yes center section is ready to go. I bought this unit from a guy on ebay ya I know. But after talking to him I felt confident in his ability and impressed with his experience. Tom Robert or TJ Is what he goes by. Alu. Daytona pinion support, 31 spline moser axcels, New trac loc. Housing has 3" dom tube no bracing.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=013&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3
AIT&viewitem=&item=230055644631&rd=1


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=012&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&viewitem=&item=220051712105&rd=1

[fasteddy]

70 Lemans, is this for street and strip? If so, you should be fine. Burn-outs, launching on a sticky track with slicks-the posi will be the weak link. The rest on the list will handle it. That is a heavy car like mine and the only big difference between your set-up and mine is a spool vs a posi. I ate up a locker with my tuna boat. I also bent the housing so it is back-braced now.

[70 Lemans]

How can brace housing? where should I buy the brace? I would think now is the best time to weld one in before I install the center.

Street / strip. Looking for 11.5 Et

Thanks for all the help.

[fasteddy]

You can buy the brace through Summit or Jegs. You need to jig the housing with a bar from end to end to prevent warpage. You should probably have someone with the tool do this right. You may just let a chassis shop fabricate it from scratch if you think you need it. I think it the one I bought from Summit was from Competition Engineering-I had an equiped shop do mine.

[RAIV55]

You can buy the brace through Summit or Jegs. You need to jig the housing with a bar from end to end to prevent warpage. You should probably have someone with the tool do this right. You may just let a chassis shop fabricate it from scratch if you think you need it. I think it the one I bought from Summit was from Competition Engineering-I had an equiped shop do mine.


Correct.

If welding on the housing at this point it's sure bet there will be warpage involved. When fabracating, housing ends are the last thing to be welded. It's necessary to use a fixture that centers off the carrier bearings in the center section and locate the housing ends.

[70 Lemans]

RAIV55,

I just sent off an email to the guy that built the center section. I did a copy and paste of what you posted in regards to the crush sleave. First is my email then his reply. Never said crush sleave could crush more nor did you. He must be confussed or had a bad day.

My email to builder,

Hi TJ,

I have a concern. Did you use a crush sleave on the aluminum center section you built for me?

This info is a concern to me.

The crush sleeve on a 9in is a deal breaker in my opinion. Gear noise and eventual failures of race style rears, many times can be traced to the pinion bearings losing preload. At the factory level ford used solid spacers on their performance 9s. Is this true? I guess I should have done more research. Sorry but I just can't afford to do things twice. What do you think of this pearsons opinion?

Builders reply,

:mad:
YOU HAVE SOME INCORRECT INFORMATION THE SOLID SLEEVE WAS USED ON DRAG RACE FORD 9 INCH REARS SO THE YOKE COULD BE REPLACED WITH OUT CHANGING THE PINION BEARING PRE LOAD... IT HAD NOTHING TO DO WITH A CRUSH SLEEVE CRUSHING MORE WHICH WOULD BE INPOSSIBLE AND IF IT COULD IT WOULD ADD PRELOAD NOT UNLOAD THE BEARING .STOP BELIVING EVERY THING YOU HEAR FROM UNRELIABLE SORCES . I HAVE DONE 40 OR SO REARS SINCE YOURS AND DO NOT REMEMBER IF I USED A SOLID OR CRUSH SPACER ,BUT PROBABLY A CRUSH SINCE THE ONLY TIME I USE SOLIDS IS IF THE BUYER IS GOING TO CHANGE YOKES OR ASKS FOR A SOLID . STOP SECOND GUESSING YOURSELF AND ME AND USE THE UNIT ... THANKS T.J. 610-485-4858

I think I up set him. Oops.

[RAIV55]

RAIV55,

I just sent off an email to the guy that built the center section. I did a copy and paste of what you posted in regards to the crush sleave. First is my email then his reply. Never said crush sleave could crush more nor did you. He must be confussed or had a bad day.

My email to builder,

Hi TJ,

I have a concern. Did you use a crush sleave on the aluminum center section you built for me?

This info is a concern to me.

The crush sleeve on a 9in is a deal breaker in my opinion. Gear noise and eventual failures of race style rears, many times can be traced to the pinion bearings losing preload. At the factory level ford used solid spacers on their performance 9s. Is this true? I guess I should have done more research. Sorry but I just can't afford to do things twice. What do you think of this pearsons opinion?

Builders reply,

:mad:
YOU HAVE SOME INCORRECT INFORMATION THE SOLID SLEEVE WAS USED ON DRAG RACE FORD 9 INCH REARS SO THE YOKE COULD BE REPLACED WITH OUT CHANGING THE PINION BEARING PRE LOAD... IT HAD NOTHING TO DO WITH A CRUSH SLEEVE CRUSHING MORE WHICH WOULD BE INPOSSIBLE AND IF IT COULD IT WOULD ADD PRELOAD NOT UNLOAD THE BEARING .STOP BELIVING EVERY THING YOU HEAR FROM UNRELIABLE SORCES . I HAVE DONE 40 OR SO REARS SINCE YOURS AND DO NOT REMEMBER IF I USED A SOLID OR CRUSH SPACER ,BUT PROBABLY A CRUSH SINCE THE ONLY TIME I USE SOLIDS IS IF THE BUYER IS GOING TO CHANGE YOKES OR ASKS FOR A SOLID . STOP SECOND GUESSING YOURSELF AND ME AND USE THE UNIT ... THANKS T.J. 610-485-4858

I think I up set him. Oops.

I'd advise you to check with several reputable builders to get your answer instead of taking my word or his. All the manufactures I deal with for parts use solid spacers in their assembled race units. I doubt their reason is to make it easier to change yokes....:rolleyes:

Mark Williams Ent. 800-508-6396
Moser Engineering 260-226-6689
Strange Eng. 847-663-1701