Installed my new BMR rear swaybar

[SGTGTO]

Took part of a day. Mostly trying to get everything aligned properly. It is slick, if I ever take it to the drags, I can preload the tires with it. I will post when I get it on the road as to how it handles. Price was $350. It came with all the hardware plus a lot of extra bolts. Tools needed were wrenches, tape measure, paint pen, and a drill with a step bit.

Jake

[BruceWilkie]

Too bad they didnt have threads on both ends of the adjuster. Would make fine tuning lots easier. I am going to use something like the CE anti roll bar on my 84 GP. I dont know if it will do much for handling but should help take the twist out of the launch. Wont be as easy to mount as yours though.

[scott70]

thanks for the pics,one of those is in my future,looks good

[02Hawk]

I put the exact same one on my Goat. It sure helped with the launches at the track

[Karch]

Thanks for the pics. I like taking the load off the lower arms.

[wheelspin]

Very similar to my HR Parts & Stuf Anti-roll bar, but $150 cheaper. I reduced my short time by a tenth and the GTO launches straight every time.

Les

[TCSGTO]

Very similar to my HR Parts & Stuf Anti-roll bar, but $150 cheaper. I reduced my short time by a tenth and the GTO launches straight every time.

Les

Les,Do you still use the air bags with the H&R bar? Do you use any other bolt on traction aids like no-hops etc with them?

[wheelspin]

Yes, I still run 5/10psi staggered pressure in the air bags with the HR bar. The HR bar was my last, but most productive, mod for improving traction. I would like to run w/o pressure in the bags, but lack the clearance w/o more trimming in the wheel well areas, which I am reluctant to do on my nice, unmolested survivor car :( .

After I built my current 500hp combo I have added everything I can think of in order to improve my 60s, which are stuck in the 1.85-1.95 zone. With my old 400hp combo, the GTO would consistently 60ft. in the low 1.7s with boxed lcas, KYBs, air bags, and MT Drag Radials. With the new combo I have added no-hops, QA-1s, full slicks (MT 28 X 11.5 X 15 stiff sidewalls @ 14.5psi), adjustable upper lcas, changed the final gearing from 3:73 to 3:31, reduced the stall from 3500 to 2800, and the set the pinion angle, etc.. Still looking for those 1.6s and 11s in the 1/4 mile :D .

Les

[Ducks Goat]

Les, if I'm reading your last post correctly you are using airbags with no-hop bars? Wouldn't the airbags keep the rear from seperating correctly like the no-hop bars are designed to do? On my '65 GTO, I use adjustable upper arms, tubular lowers,no-hop bars, stock type sway bar, 3 way shocks, and stock '65 Tempest 6 cly. springs. I did have to make 2 inch spacers to keep the tires from rubbing since I'm using a later model 8.2 rear. The car will 60' around 1.60-1.64 on every pass. I'm thinking about getting one of the HR bars, it looks like their stlye fits closer to the rear than the BMR bar does, and since my car is a driver I like to keep as much ground clearance as possible.

[screamingchief]

it looks like their stlye fits closer to the rear than the BMR bar does, and since my car is a driver I like to keep as much ground clearance as possible.
What your likely seeing is an optical illusion,the picks posted of the BMR bar in this thread are on a pontiac 8.2" ten bolt rear,most all the pics of the HRparts bar that I've seen were taken on 8.875" twelve bolt rears (like Les's car) which have a larger center section casting than the BOP 8.2" rears,and this makes the bar appear like it's much closer to the rear on the twelve bolt rears.

If you look at the pics posted on the BMR website,the bar fit is almost identical with both bars,the pics on the site are on a 8.875" twelve bolt rear as well...

I'll include the pics from BMR here for ya'll to judge for yourselves.

Wouldn't the airbags keep the rear from seperating correctly like the no-hop bars are designed to do?
I seriously doubt the bags have any affect on the suspensions movements,there is minimal force being exerted by those bags when compared to the forces involved with the suspension,plenty of folks using air bags with these A-bodies and chassis aids/devices that correct the rear geometry for added seperation and they all work fine,if there were an issue there,all those folks would have likely run into the same problem and that's just not the case.

Even HRparts gives advice for using the bags with their bars.

My race car has the SSM lower arms and air bags,seen many more just like it,with either the SSM style lowers or "stop-hop" style uppers,all seem to work pretty well in spite of using "the bags".

My feeling is if a fella has a problem with a certain combo they need to step back a bit and look at the big picture,not just concentrate on one area,this often leads to an awakening as to how the car "works" together as a whole as opposed to just the rear suspension itself or such.

Starting line ratios are one of the least understood and least talked about aspects of drag racing driveline selection and chassis tuning,and those who know how to maximize this aspect often find success,those who dont fall short,some find out about this relationship purely by accident and never even realize what change actually fixed their problem.

Too little SLR and the car is "sluggish" and 60's go up,too much SLR and the tires get hit too hard and spin or unload the suspension on "the bounce",there is a nice little range the SLR ratio likes to live in for good results.

HTH.

[wheelspin]

My problem is the multi-mission task I built the car for; comfortable cross-country touring for two (a/c, 700R4), mount the slicks, race (looking for 11s), drive home. As Bret mentioned, I have reduced my slr from the 11s to below 10, as suggested.

Les