Then the spool is shifted in the valve which shuts off one side of the system if there is a differential in pressure. The valve has both systems plumbed into it, front and rear. The spool can be pushed back manually at the rubber boot, if it's not stuck over to one side with corrosion. Once you center the spool in the valve it will open up the rear half of the system allowing fluid back to the wheel cylinders.

Sorry I missed where you said you replaced the wheel cylinders. When you get fluid coming to the rear don't try to pressure bleed the system or you'll shift that valve again as soon as you pressurize the system. Just leave the bleeders open for a minute or two and let it gravity bleed, close the bleeders and you should be done. I hope this helps you.

Today 03:41 PM
Sirrotica
I've seen the hole in the bleeder fill with rust and have had to remove the bleeder and actually run a drill through the hole to remove the built up crud. I'd be looking at removing the bleeder and see if it's open or not first.
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Yesterday 07:41 PM
azbirds
From what I've seen you are very knowledgeable so I have a diagnosis question for you. I parked my 69 Bird to put a 2nd Gen diff in it. Everything worked great when parked. The new diff has all new brake parts and I'm using the old flex and hard lines. Opened the rr bleeder and all I have is a sold pedal and no fluid. I thought booster or master, but I removed the master from booster and the pedal hits the floor. So I thought master and replaced it. Some pedal won't move problem. Is it a stuck prop valve? Been doing this since around 1978 and Never come across this. What does your experience say?

I've seen the hole in the bleeder fill with rust and have had to remove the bleeder and actually run a drill through the hole to remove the built up crud. I'd be looking at removing the bleeder and see if it's open or not first.