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1970 Judge Barn Car Resurrection
I know a few of you are familiar with the 1970 Judge I found in the barn near my shop. It's an Oshawa-built Ram Air III/4 speed car that is documented with the WT7 "black wing" option. If not, that whole story can be found here:
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...&highlight=WT7 The car is being restored from the ground up on nights and weekends by my father and I and I'd like to show some of the progress to maybe help some others see how we do things. :) Here is the car as purchased: http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...gebarn/001.jpg Off the frame: http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...barn/003-1.jpg Some pictures of the restored rear brake drum assemblies. You can see the original brake shoe assemblies with the way the factory color-coded the springs.....which we carefully reproduced on the restored assemblies. This car had only 50K easy miles on it when it was parked so it still wears all it's original brakes, rotors, and drums. http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...barn/017-1.jpg http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...barn/018-1.jpg http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...barn/020-1.jpg http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...barn/021-1.jpg Pics of the rear frame and axle assembly under construction, with factory paint inspection daubs which were found during cleaning and disassembly: PS......and YES, those are the original factory date coded "Delco Canada" spiral shocks! http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...barn/023-1.jpg http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...barn/024-1.jpg http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...barn/025-1.jpg http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...gebarn/027.jpg |
looks great. Im at the same point with my frame.Good luck
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nice
As Paris would say "That's Hot!"
Sorry, couldn't resist... looks great! |
Looks great Jason! Keep these updates comming.
BJ |
Thanks for the great detailed pics and explanations on your restoration steps. I am restoring a 70 GTO at a much slower......pace, so your pics & input on how you restore you Judge will help me with my mine. Keep up the great work.
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Jason, I noticed that you painted the welds for the control arm brackets and the plates at the ends of the axle tubes, is this how the diff. was originally?
BTW, great job :D Mike |
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Whenever you MIG weld two pieces of metal together you get a black haze around the area from the extreme heat generated. I add that little detail on my rear axles to try to make them look as realistic as I can. They were bare metal when installed. I also paint the center section a little darker gray than the tubes and the cover since that area is cast iron. |
Hey Jason! I've missed a lot since I've been away from TAC. I know this car will look fantastic when you're done and I look forward to seeing the progress. Congrats on such an awesome find.
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love that opening shot of the judge against the hills/snow, not used to seeing that here in az, nice detail on your build, any more pics.
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Here are a few pictures of some more undercarriage details.
Fully restored and detailed driveshaft assembly: http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...barn/002-3.jpg Rear end is finished with perfect replication of factory markings and brake hardware. We even reused the original date coded brake drums: http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...barn/001-2.jpg http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...barn/003-2.jpg During disassembly we noted different colors that were present on each of the body mount bushings (pink, blue, and purple).....apparantly to help factory workers place them in the proper places......so we replicated the colors and sprayed them on the corresponding body mounts. http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...barn/009-2.jpg http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...barn/013-1.jpg http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...barn/011-2.jpg |
Thats awsome Jason, I have a 70 WT1 car and you photos and work are a perfect restoration example for my car.
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Amazing!! Can't wait to see it all come together. Very nice work and detailing.
BJ |
Jason, did you sandblast the driveshaft? Just wondering the technique as I am an amatuer. LOOKING GOOD!!!!
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Looks Great!
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Thanks, guys. :D
Yes "68addict" we remove the old U-joints, sandblast and prime the driveshaft, and then install the new U-joints.....and then paint the whole assembly to protect it from rusting but still have it look like bare metal. |
for sale?
I'm hoping it will be for sale when you are done?
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Thank You Jason, the car is coming out great. Did you use something like eastwood's spray gray? I like that look instead of black.... Mine is going to be a driver, but I would like to maintain some level of correctness. :jumping: |
We employ a complete DuPont paint mixing system, so I custom mix all my own paint to match the different colors I need to match.
Yes "getmygoat" this car will be for sale when it's finished. The way my business is right now I just don't have the time to take this car all over the country to show it. This car deserves to see some national shows. Just wait until you guys see the inside of the engine. It's like it was put in there yesterday. It's the cleanest engine I have ever seen in my life......and it's never seen the light of day since 1970. The factory paint inspection daubs are still on the rods, mains, crank, and end caps. It's just unbelievable. |
Nice work. But why didnt you repair the severe pitting in the frame before you painted it.
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We also did a skim coat on the control arms. Those sure aren't very fun to get smooth. ;) Here is a pic of the frame just before I painted it. You can see the skim coat of filler down the sides and the bottom where we filled in some of the rust pitting: http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...eous/007-3.jpg |
When we bought this car we literally drove it into the shop. Although it looked kind of rough the original Ram Air III engine ran perfectly. With only 58000 miles on the odometer I thought the engine was probably in good shape.......but I never expected it to be this clean and new inside.
When we first got the engine out we degreased it and used high speed wire wheels to remove the old paint and rust from the block, and then sprayed on a coat of epoxy primer to preserve the bare metal until we started rebuilding. This engine was assembled in January of 1970 and has never been opened until now. It's just amazing how the original factory paint daubs look like they were applied yesterday. The engine shows virtually no wear at all. Inside the original valve covers: http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...engine/009.jpg http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...engine/010.jpg Inside the timing chain cover. You can still see the remains of a stamp in there: http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...engine/011.jpg Original GM nylon-tooth timing chain gear. That's one thing I'm changing: http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...engine/012.jpg http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...engine/013.jpg The windage tray and some of the markings on the crank and main caps: http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...engine/001.jpg http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...engine/002.jpg I really liked this. There is a big red "H" stamped on the oil pump. I assume that would denote high volume? I've never seen that before. http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...engine/004.jpg And all the markings on the main caps, rods, rod caps, and even the sides of the pistons: http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...engine/005.jpg http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...engine/008.jpg http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...gine/009-1.jpg http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...gine/010-1.jpg |
That IS one clean engine inside!
I'm sure your already doing this but I would replace the timing chain & plastic coated cam gear & crank gear while your in there. Keep the pics coming, looks like it's coming along quick now! :Peace: |
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Basically all we are doing is putting in a new timing chain, all new seals.... and that's it besides a thorough cleaning. The bearings all look brand new. There is no wear in the cylinder bores. The lifters pulled up out of their bores like they were put in yesterday. The engine in this thing will be as stock as stock can be. :) |
Definitely didn't use Castrol! ;)
Really neat to see, thanks for the photo's. |
TERRIFIC DETALING
SAW YOUR PICS TODAY CRUSING THE SITE, ABSOLUTLY BEAUTYFUL, IF YOU HAVE MORE PICS WOULD LOVE TO SEE THEM, GREAT WORK
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So the frame and suspension are almost finished.....just need to install all the fluid lines and the detail decals. We bought all new components for the front steering, control arm bushings, ball joints, etc etc. We'll hold onto all of the original stuff.
We did rebuild the original date-coded Delco brake calipers. I also shot a little video of the frame today. Click on this picture to start the movie: http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...n/th_021-2.jpg We still need to install the front spiral shocks. I had to get new bushings for those. http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...barn/011-3.jpg http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...barn/019-1.jpg |
Nice work Jason! This is going to be a nice car when done. Can't wait to see the body and engine!
BJ |
Man, that engine is unbelievable. Good job Jason. Looking forward to seeing it progress.
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Jason, you are giving me inspiration!!!!!
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Hey Jason,
Thanks for the great pics & the video to boot. I'm restoring a 70 GTO, so your pics and info are going to help me out with my restoration since I'm a novice. Keep up the great work and man I wish I could complete things as fast as you're doing things. I have a couple of questions I hope you don't mind answering. I'll be pulling my body off the frame soon for sandblasting and powdercoating and I've never done this. 1) What special instructions/ precautions do you recommend with unbolting the body bolts from the body? 2) When installing the body bushings and placing the body back on the frame how do you keep all of the bushings in the right place? thanks. Brian |
Thanks for all the nice comments guys!
Brian......about your body bolts......if you start to loosen a bolt and it feels like it's going to strip out the nut inside the body, stop right there. Use a torch to cut off the head of the bolt. That way when you lift the body up off the frame you can get underneath the body and warm up the nut with a torch and remove the bolt without tearing things up. It may seem like alot of work, but it's WAY easier than trying to fix a caged nut that ripped loose inside a body crossmember. Keeping the body bushings in while you lower the body down onto the frame is just a matter of being careful. The body bushings should fit tightly into the holes in the frame. Try to let the body straight down onto the frame. |
Here is the numbers-matching Muncie M20 4 speed back from the tranny shop.....nicely restored, including the purple inspection mark on the side cover.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...barn/001-3.jpg http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...barn/002-4.jpg |
Jason:
Man, you're killing me with all these great pictures. When can I put my bid in for this car? BJ |
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Just wait until you see this engine sitting in the frame. ;) |
Great pictures super detail! I'll bet Even Krytas 69 Judge does not have those engine markings...LOL Looks like those ram air oil drippers really did their job.
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Jason: Best Judge thread in a long time! Starting with the find, the history, the restoration...keep it coming! Looking good!!
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Makes me want to get my driveshaft painted up like that too!
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Thanks guys. :D
Here is the rear bumper assembly, restored and ready to mount as soon as the new license plate light shows up. The tail lights are the original ones....they polished up very nicely and look like brand new. http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...barn/005-3.jpg http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...barn/003-3.jpg |
Jason, what is the date code of your rear bumper (behind license plate bracket, drivers side)?
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Jason:
This has to be one of the fastest restorations ever chronicled on this forum! I second Judge273's comment; this is one of the best Judge threads in a while. BJ |
Thanks guys!
Here is the numbers-matching 400 WS code Ram Air III engine. Carefully disassembled, inspected, cleaned, and reassembled with all new seals, new roller timing chain and oil pump. Other than that it is bone stock right down to the bearings and piston rings. This engine has only 58000 original miles on it. http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...barn/005-4.jpg |
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This is how I spent my Sunday afternoon yesterday......installing a nice, new engine and tranny into a nice, new chassis assembly. :)
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...barn/004-2.jpg http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...barn/006-1.jpg |
Thanks again.
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Sweet! Man, you are blazing with the restoration. I feel like I'm crawling like a turtle with my restoration compared to you. But then again, I only get Saturdays to work on my GTO and realistically not every Saturday I can get to it. Well, you give me the "gung ho" to keep going.
Thanks for the updates and pics. How about a video of the engine running one day? Brian |
wow, that looks beautiful. What's the deal with the colored body bushings, are they urethane? or some kind of factory color coding thing?
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The body bushings are regular rubber bushings. When the car was disassembled we found traces of blue, pink and purple color on the original bushings. Apparently it was a way to help the factory workers know where they went. We mixed up the correct colors and painted the bushings and installed them back in the same places we found them. |
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I think video is very important in today's restorations. Pictures are great, but video really helps to show what things really look like. |
Super nice job, you are exactly caught up with my restoration, nice full pictures that looks like a 4.5 inch water pump I only needed a 4 inch pump (PS,PB) and is getting rebuilt right now, keep up the great work, now it's time to call the paint guy..LOL
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All of the brake and fuel lines are installed now....along with some more engine reassembly. All of the colors on the original clips that hold the fluid lines were carefully noted and diagramed, so we could put them all back exactly the way they used to be. The colors were yellow, blue, white, and zinc plated (silver).
Now we're waiting for our brand new set of 5 reproduction G70-14 Firestone Wide Ovals. :cool: http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...barn/005-5.jpg http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...barn/007-1.jpg http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...barn/009-3.jpg And another video: http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...n/th_010-1.jpg |
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