I am interested in relining a set of 8 lug drums. They need to be done right because they will be on my 1/4 mile car. Any ideas? What does anyone know about Roger Rehil at Custom Circ.

I am interested in relining a set of 8 lug drums. They need to be done right because they will be on my 1/4 mile car. Any ideas? What does anyone know about Roger Rehil at Custom Circ.

He's da man when it comes to 8-lugs. Not cheap, but good and he is very knowledgable and service oriented. He was very helpful to me.

Uh, you might want to do some research on the older posts on this board before you stake your life on those restored rims on a drag car. Probably if you looked up "Roger & 8 lug" using the advanced search you would come up with some interesting info.

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by JRSPEED:
I am interested in relining a set of 8 lug drums. They need to be done right because they will be on my 1/4 mile car. Any ideas? What does anyone know about Roger Rehil at Custom Circ. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Don't EVEN get me started on Roger. I'm just glad I'm way out here and not close enough that I could get my hands on him.

Ya got me started...Although I express my thoughts only, you would stop faster, smoother, better and cheaper with a chute than with Rodger's CC "recent" rebuilt brake drums. I think we should have a "roundtable" discussion about 8-lugs and sources for rebuilds at this years POIC convention.

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>
If you must, go the easy route, and take 10- 100 dollar bills and through them in a sewer. http://forums.performanceyears.com/g.../icon_wink.gif <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Or as we say in North Carolina..."Stick it up a wild hog's a** and holler sooie!"

I was wondering how long before the fallout started. I too have to question why something isn't done due to all this bad press?

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by JRSPEED:
I am interested in relining a set of 8 lug drums. They need to be done right because they will be on my 1/4 mile car. Any ideas? What does anyone know about Roger Rehil at Custom Circ. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Can't comment on Roger. I have heard good and bad. I run the 8 lugs on my drag car purely to keep the nostalgia look even though "back in the day" most ran a 15" steel rim and reg.drum on rear. I think this was purely for getting a good tire selection in 15";not a safety issue. I had a good set to start with and just trued them up. There was some discussion about using them on the rear by some tech person but he didn't reject me. Seems that he heard "somewhere" where that the 5 lugs holding the drum on would pull through and loose the wheel. I could see that if the drums holes were bad to start. It will hog them out if you constantly overtighten them with air gun. I have run my car for three seasons now with out problems and I have run some tracks with short shut downs. You will find my cars stats below in my signature. It runs decent.
Good luck.

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Ziggy:
Ya got me started...Although I express my thoughts only, you would stop faster, smoother, better and cheaper with a chute than with Rodger's CC "recent" rebuilt brake drums. I think we should have a "roundtable" discussion about 8-lugs and sources for rebuilds at this years POIC convention. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Buick for years used a steel lined aluminum drum. I need to talk to some of the buick guys to see who does theirs. We'd have to do the cosmetics ourselves, which is easy, and would probably turn out better than anything roger does.

I'll chime in here, but not with any specific experience with Roger. I sent away for his information about 4 years ago, but circumstances have delayed my having the set of '67 8-lugs I have done by him. Now I am moving forward again and want a set done for my '67 GP convertible, but I hesitate to send them to CC.

What Roger is doing is unique only because not many other people are doing, not because it is brain surgery. As I undertstand it, you need three key things to re-line our drums:

A good lathe (machine shop)
A source for the iron or steel liners
A source for the "sealant" to keep moisture out of the aluminum/ferrous interface.
A competent machine shop that can chill the hoops and press them into the aluminum with the sealant.

Am I missing something? There must be some pent-up demand now that CC's reputation is suffering from their poor product and practices . . .

I have a metalurgist that I can discuss the sealant issues with. There are several machine shops in New Jersey and PA that should be able to handle the work with appropriate direction. I'll see what I can dig up.

I noticed Roger of CC doesn't advertise in Smoke Signals any more. I was told he was banned but not why. Hmmmm, very interesting! I am certanly backing off doing the 8 Lugs until I can be assured of quality work.

I agree that there may be safer and better ways to stop a 62 Catalina than those beautiful old 8 Lugs. I'll continue to investigate and will share my findings.

Many thanks to all, JRSPEED
As in Jackrabbit Speed

Two thoughts. One is guys like Chip Foose make entire rims from a block of Alum. Seems to me like they could do these drums too though that does not solve the liner prob. other than they could be designed/made to accomodate whatever kind of liner you wanted or was available. You're really looking at probably $2k to buy a set, wait around & have it restored anyway with today's prices.

The other is I have read about a product called Duro Titanium Bond I believe it is called, which is used by Trans shops & machine shops to patch blocks, trannys, plug intakes etc. It's a 2 part deal. I would think this stuff would hold up under heat & keep the two metals sealed & Seperate. Anybody used this stuff?

I am hoping Mr67 comes back with some good info. as it seems to me this could be done. By the time anyone figures it out, there is going to be a huge pile of these waiting to be done, so it should be worth it for whoever takes it on. If everybody sticks together it would be attractive/proffitable for a shop to do it.

The guy who helps me with the BIG jobs on my cars is an ASME Certified Master Mechanic and a decent machinst. 2 years ago while working the brakes on the Bonneville, he took a good look at the 8-lugs. He said it would be no problem to machine the old liner out and get a new one in place - all that would be needed would be a source for the liners. This was before I knew these had to be sealed in place to prevent slipping. As MR67 has said:

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by mr67gp:
What Roger is doing is unique only because not many other people are doing, not because it is brain surgery. As I undertstand it, you need three key things to re-line our drums:

A good lathe (machine shop)
A source for the iron or steel liners
A source for the "sealant" to keep moisture out of the aluminum/ferrous interface.
A competent machine shop that can chill the hoops and press them into the aluminum with the sealant. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Seems like if all 3 can be put together, it will be a winning combination. And Bruce dead-on right also:

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Deadhead:
By the time anyone figures it out, there is going to be a huge pile of these waiting to be done, so it should be worth it for whoever takes it on. If everybody sticks together it would be attractive/proffitable for a shop to do it. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Sticking together will be the key to getting this done at a reasonable price and still make a profit for the jobber.

Keep us posted, Mr67.

Since these were/are CAST aluminum drums. Wonder how difficult it would be to make new molds? Wonder what happened to the original Kelsey Hayes molds? Does anyone know any really old timers from Kelsey Hayes? Wonder if Jim Wangers or Mac McKeller or ????would know where the molds are?

There'd only be four different types to cover 8 years with the short fin 60-62 hubs and drums and the long fin 63-68 hubs and drums.

I think most of us would be happy with that. Just one good drum sorce, short or long finned.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWA%3AIT

I'm sure most of you who visit eBay have seen these by now. http://forums.performanceyears.com/g...s/icon_eek.gif

WOW! I had not seen those yet. What is a kidney worth these days . . . ?

I have done some research into the 8-lug restoration with my metallurgist. We have more questions than answers right now. The question of most interest revolves around the "sealant" that Roger uses between the iron hoop and drum. However, we are looking into alternatives that might obviate the need for the "goop".

Stay tuned.

I've seen 1 NOS 8-lug in my time. It has been at Carlisle the last 2 years with a sign that says "Not for sale". http://forums.performanceyears.com/g...icon_frown.gif At least the guy doesn't charge to look. I wonder sometimes why he even has it displayed?

Heybuck, I'm pulling for you, too!

i just found out that barry riehl inherrited custom circuits and he is going to continue religning 8 lug drums but from what everyone is saying it doesnt seem like they do a good job.

saw a slick conversion where a standard iron drum was put inside an 8 lug drum so it look like it had 8 lugs, but the brakes used a standard drum while maintaining the look of the 8 lug drum and rim.

I've also heard there are people working on new 8 lug drums, as well as another party that's looking into relining original ones. I don't believe they have made any public announcements yet but expect to be on the market yet this year.

I'm waiting on a set of the new drums to go with the RetroMotive 15" 8 lug rims.

jrspeed, the reason racers "back in the day" used the steel wheels and drums was they ran faster.

Weigh an 8 lug assembly and a 5 lug assembly. The 8 lug weighs more.

Pitts, I'll keep you posted but it'll be next year before I can get it done.