Someone put a flyer in my car at a show Sat. for a new rust remover. It is from a company called ULTRA ONE they are in New Jersey, and is called SAFEST RUST REMOVER.COM from the pictures that they show this stuff really works. Does anyone have any first hand experience with this product????? Check out their web site. WWW.safestrustremover.com

Someone put a flyer in my car at a show Sat. for a new rust remover. It is from a company called ULTRA ONE they are in New Jersey, and is called SAFEST RUST REMOVER.COM from the pictures that they show this stuff really works. Does anyone have any first hand experience with this product????? Check out their web site. WWW.safestrustremover.com

I guess that nobody has an opinion on this stuff!!!!!

If it works as good as it appears to that would be great.

We are thinking of buying a gallon just to try, If it works it would be nice for derusting of engine blocks. Sure would save time if it works. (100 percent money back guarantee)

Let us know how it works.

Eastwood sells a product that is called Oxy-Solve. I used that when I was doing my 64. Eats rust way and leaves a zinc coating over it.

Being from Jersey myself, I would think you can't go wrong. Old Jersey cars & rust go hand in hand. So if anyone would know about rust it would be a Jersey based company... http://forums.performanceyears.com/g.../icon_wink.gif
Good Luck.

Looks like good stuff. I may order some, just need to figure out how to collect it to use it again.

Tim, I didn't meet you Saturday, but I did see your car. It was beautiful. For what would you need rust remover? I am always suspicious as to whether any of those rust products acutally "get rid of" the rust. I have always thought the claims were a little fishy. Has anyone here used one and then ground under the new "coating" to see if the rust underneath is actually gone?

I posted here to see if anyone has had first hand experience with this product. Most of the products that I have seen have been rust converters, not rust removers. I have tried to use converters in the past and none of them worked to my satisfaction.

I've ordered a gallon today. I will post the results. I hope it works as well as they say. For 25 bucks I had to try it.

Wow - the website is worth a look. If that stuff works like in the pictures . . . that should make a car wash so I can drive the whole car through!

busted - please let us know how it works.

Thanks.
-Dan

My gallon came in today. I will charge my camera, for before and after shots, then try it tommorrow. I'll let you guys know then.

busted,

Very interested to hear how well the product did. Let us know.

Ok, I dip a piece of rusted metal in the solution. I did not do the recommended pre-cleaning. I was wondering how it would do. The part was let to sit over night since it was pitted. In the morning most of the rust was removed. However the solution turned black. The instructions said this was normal if not pre cleaned. I cleaned the part with some of their degreaser. I again let the part soak over night. It seams to have removed most of the rust now. I want to post pics of the part. I just need someone to tell me how. I am also dipping a piece of rusted trim as I am typing this. It is not pitted like the last piece. As of now I am only fairly satisfied with the results. But I did not clean the part prior, so I am sure that had a major affect on it.

To post a pic that is saved on your comp, just click the attachment button (very last button on the right, above the message area)and it will ask you to browse your computer for the pic you want to attach. Just select your pic and click ok.

If the file is too large you will have to resize it. If it won't let you post it. You can email them to me and I'll post em for you.

I really want to see if this stuff works, as I have a block that I want to use it on.

So whats the final take on this stuff? Sure would be cool if it works.

Mase

before pics

during

after

This process took me two days of soaking. I did not pre clean. I think if i had used a wire brush and scrubbed them prior it would have help. I know two days is a lot but I didnt have to do anything but let it soak. So if you have the time, I guess it is worth it. I can't however imagine it doing my whole car. If you have the time I recommend it. If not try eastwood's oxysolve. It is much quicker. Feel free to ask me any questions. Or if you have something else you want me to try let me know.

busted:

The part looks pretty clean - did it remove all of the rust? Also - if you've tried Eastwood's oxysolve - how would you compare the two - is one better than the other?

-thanks for the pics.
-Dan

The rust seemed to be completely removed. I have used the oxysolve. It seemed to work quicker. I liked the oxysolve better. I just dont know if the oxysolve is as safe a product. By that I mean, will it affect paint, gaskets, or seals.

any possibility of seeing some pictures?

Do you want more pictures than what is on page one of this post?

I purchased a product from ZEP that is supposed to do this in just a few hours, soac with no pre cleaning then power wash off. It cost about $60 for a 5 gal bucket plus $40 shipping, haven't had a chance to use it yet, they only sell to companies and a cat dealer uses it on machinery here in town. I ordered it through my construction company name with no epa problems

Thanks for the pic. i missed it the first time around
Gordy

T - could you let us know how the ZEP product works?

Aren't all of these products just phoshoric Acid? Like Metal Prep/Etch solutions?

About rust remover. I bought three pounds of Oxy-acid which takes three tablespoons per gallon of water. I paid less than $20.00 for three pounds of it through the net, and that's so much less than places who sell it premixed get. And, it does work really well but if you leave the zink film on it when it's dry it will not harm the paint or anything else, and continues to help prevent rust. Just prime and paint over it. Of course if it's in a place or part that needs to not be painted it should be removed. Cleans the heck out pf engines too, and no harm to paint. Glass, as well. I put it in s weed sprayer because they are made to spray harmful sprays with some better control of the spray than a normal spray bottle. Works fine, and it can be kept a long time. Also keep the sprayer realllllllllly clean. http://forums.performanceyears.com/g...icon_smile.gif Also, remember to use the method in HHP about the batter charger and water. It also works great for really tough rust and so far I've done intakes, one block, trailing arms from a Chevy truck and many smaller parts. As good as a hot tank I believe.

RR67GTO -

where can you get "oxy-acid?" I did a quick search and all I came up with is a bunch of chemistry class questions and some websites to buy Oxy-5 for acne. http://forums.performanceyears.com/g...n_rolleyes.gif

Zero rust sell it in bags, I don't know if that's what he's talking about Zerorust.com $43.50 for a 5 lb bag. Wonder if you can use tap water though.

Dan, send me an e-mail to [email protected] I'll give you the persons information. He's really nice and very easy to deal with. Also have some neat other stuff.

Mike: [email protected]

Here is the guys e-mail. He has a small company and can mail up to three pounds via US priority mail for a very few dollars. Worth it is you want to save a bunch rather than buying Oxy-5. Ummm I can't get in toruble saying that can I??
http://forums.performanceyears.com/g...icon_smile.gif

E-mail: [email protected]

Mac's Pacs is $4.95 a pound in four pound bags. Or. $5.25 per pound. A better deal !!

I'll mix some up first chance I get, I was going to build a tank to do doors and fenders and other large parts 5 gallon of powder does a 175 gallon tank of water, ZEP doesn't sell anything smaller than 5 gallon bucket and it has to be truck shipped because of chemical status

RR67GTO,

How long do you have to soak the item in this mixture??? I'm looking to do Rear control arms, and the whole rearend. Is it just spray it on and let dry???

Anthony

These all sound like variations of "Muriatic Acid" & "Phosphoric Acid" both of which I bought @ Homer D Poes place for less than $10 bucks a gal. I know they do require more care and precautions, but I belive that the end results both cost & physical outweigh the extra care required, IMHO , JF

I did my whole C10 frame as well as smaller parts. I just kept it wet with it until all the rust had turned black. Depends on how much rust and how deep. Speed it up by removing the real loose rust before wetting. Soaking is better, and with control arms you can do half at a time. Be sure to remember rubber gloves. This stuff finds tiny cuts on your hands you never knew you had. But, it will let you know about each one in short order. http://forums.performanceyears.com/g...icon_smile.gif Good luck, and where eye protection of course.

RR67GTO,

Sounds easy, Can you put POR-15 on after this process, or should I just paint the POR straight on the rusted frame and peices?

Anthony

Sixty7Goat asked if these were all phophoric acid. I kind of wondered about that myself. The safestrustremover I ordered had a very light smell similar to the oxy-solve. I am thinking it might just be a lot lighter mix, hence the reason it takes so long to use. I like the sound of the oxy-acid that RR67GTO used. That way you can mix only what you need. I will probably use the oxy-solve I have to do the heavier rust and just use the safestrust product to spray on my panels to keep them from rusting. Thanks for all the input.

Well, I don't like to use POR although I have. But, you should ask POR about it first. I've used the Hammerite ® paint over it which needs something to bond to as well and it works fine. I used it on a 68 Firebird front half frame after using the acid and the paint does not require primer. That has been three years now and driving it in the NW rain with no problem. However, ask POR first. By the way, POR is fine but their are other coatings out there that are as good and which don't cost as much. People who are around salt water boats need the same protection, so that's a nice place to look into as well for some neat ideas and cost saving paints. This stuff does a great job on cleaning the drivway also, and is not as harsh as the other acids. Look it up on the web, there is a lot of information about it.

Mike

Most of the rust removal products mentioned are variations of Phosphoric Acid. It can be had in food grade "oxy solve" or industrial grades. Difference being concentration.

Muriatic acid also converts rust but will eat thin metal and alloys.

Behr produces a floor prep product called croncrete etcher and rust remover that sells for $10 a gallon.

I have used all the forementioned products except the "safest rust remover" and have found for $10 a gallon, the results are exactly the same.

This product will completely remove all rust from the worst part you have in 15-20 minutes without harming the metal. I have left parts in there for days without issue.

Place a rusted bolt in a can of Coca Cola for 2 days and it will come out rust free..Look at one of the ingredients.

"Oxyacid" (Chem.) An acid containing oxygen, as chloric acid or sulphuric acid; -- contrasted with the "hydrochloric" acid which contain no oxygen

Hydroxy acid: (Chem.), an organic acid, having (besides the hydroxyl group of the carboxyl radical) an alcoholic hydroxyl group, and thus having the qualities of an alcohol in addition to its acid properties; as, lactic and tartaric acids are "hydroxy" acids....

"Muriatic" acid: a former name for hydrochloric acid....

"Phosphoric" acid is a mineral acid with the chemical formula H3PO4. Its main uses are in fertilizers and detergents, and in cleaning and rust-proofing agents. It is also used to acidify foods and beverages such as cola. It is prepared by adding sulphuric acid to calcium phosphate rock.

I went our local hardware store last night and bought Muriatic acid for $1.99 a gallon. It does the same thing that rust remover does. It is nasty stuff and if it was diluted it wouldnt be so bad. It took maybe 20 minutes too clean rusty bolts

This seemed like a good article.

Muriatic Acid Rust Removal

Mase

Banshee has the best idea. PPG or Dupont metal cleaners are basically phosphoric acid. For a lot less, you can buy a phosphoric acid based tile cleaner or floor etcher at the home store.

Hydrochloric attacks the good metal and can really do some damage if you leave your stuff in too long. It will also do a number on high carbon steels or spring steel.

John

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Banshee:
Most of the rust removal products mentioned are variations of Phosphoric Acid. It can be had in food grade "oxy solve" or industrial grades. Difference being concentration.

Muriatic acid also converts rust but will eat thin metal and alloys.

Behr produces a floor prep product called croncrete etcher and rust remover that sells for $10 a gallon.

I have used all the forementioned products except the "safest rust remover" and have found for $10 a gallon, the results are exactly the same.

This product will completely remove all rust from the worst part you have in 15-20 minutes without harming the metal. I have left parts in there for days without issue.

Place a rusted bolt in a can of Coca Cola for 2 days and it will come out rust free..Look at one of the ingredients. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I bought and used the Behr Rust remover and it only took about an hour to chew the rust right off. I think it was about $12 bucks for the one gallon size. How would you go about soaking an exhaust manifold without using 40 gallons of this stuff? Maybe a large and thick plastic bag ~ then tie it up some to eliminate the volume? Anyway. It worked really well.

Mase

I've bought various storage boxes from Walmart. I just did an interior heater box because I didn't want to deal with the grit getting into the hinges and there is no practical way to remove all of the interior rust by blasting. You can dilute this stuff by at least 4 to 1 and let the part soak overnight to remove the rust. I probably diluted mine 8 to 1 and got great results.

Also, oxalic acid is a good alternative to phosphoric. You can purchase it in crystal form and mix with water. AC coil cleaners are also usually phosphoric based.

John