I an looking at buying a Moser 12 bolt rear for my 65 GTO. Should I order the stock width? What brake kit is available?

I an looking at buying a Moser 12 bolt rear for my 65 GTO. Should I order the stock width? What brake kit is available?

you should call mosers for the brake info or visit their website for option info.

they should be able to answer all of you ?'s.

mike

As far as what width you need is concerned, how does your wheel/tire combo fit now? Most will sit a bit towards the outside.

Since you're buying a new rear this is your chance to move the rear wheels/tires in a tad to better center the wheel from side to side in the wheelwell. This will allow you to use the maximum width tire on your rear wheel.

Just measure carefully, and remember each side of the car will be slightly different. The body can sit 1/2" to 3/4" different from one side to another due to production tolerances.

Scroll to the bottom of this page, there you'll find a drawing of a typical rear wheelwell. Instead of using a custom-made wheel to center the rim you'll be narrowing the rear to do the same thing.

However if you're happy with the way your current wheel/tire combo fits then just order the stock width rear. This way if you ever put the stock rims (Rally I wheels) back on the car it will still look 'right'. Decisions, decisions. http://forums.performanceyears.com/g...on_biggrin.gif

Moser also makes a quality rear for your car based on the 8 3/4 Mopar rear end. It's a lot stronger than a 12-bolt and a ton cheaper, too. And, it's a "pumpkin" type so it's easy to change gears at the strip.

i think my buddy might still have his rear for sale. i'd buy it in a heartbeat, but i dont't have the cashflow right now to afford it. he has a 12-bolt in his 67 chevelle with c-clip eliminators, 3.73's, full spool, strange axles with extended wheel studs, and ithink it's got a brace on it too. this thing is virtually brand new, with only 3 or 4 passes on it. his car was running like mid-9's on motor, so you know this rear is pretty much good for about anything you can throw at it.

"so you know this rear is pretty much good for about anything you can throw at it."

Unless there was a lot of traction. When I was a Mopar racer, we used to joke that you could tell the track was good by watching the 12-bolts lunch. http://forums.performanceyears.com/g.../icon_razz.gif

I made several mistakes with my last rear end project, over several years.

1) I bought a Moser axle housing and axles for a 9" Ford in a GTO body from
Jim Butler. He had it advertised for several years in his catalogue.
Mistake number one was I was going to use the large Ford drum brakes with the larger width brake shoes. Found out I was not going to be happy with the Ford drums on the rear.

2) Bought some "CHEAP" thin metal rear disc brake mounting plates to install GM rear TA brakes.
Mistake number two was I found out how bad they want to rape you on the Trans Am cores and how the rear disc brakes leak and the emergency brake suc*s. I did not bother to investigate the factory
TA mount plates after I found out about the Calipers.

3) Decided to go with Ford Explorer rear disc parts.
Very reasonable price, factory engineered to stop a 6000# weight
vehicle. Nice calipers that do not leak and A SEPARATE Drum Brake
style emergency brake housed to use the rear rotor like a brake drum.

Mistake number 3 was not researching the Explorer brake deal before
I bought the housing from Butler. Butler/Mosers deal uses the Old
style Big Ford bearing housing where the Explorer brake deal uses
the newer Big Ford Bearing that works with the Torino/ 8.8 rear
mounting flange.

So I take the rear apart again, and have the Torino housing ends put on. At the same time I have 1" removed from each side to better center the rims in the wheel house.. Like B-Man suggests.
Find I need a small spacer (Moser has them) to get the right brake spacing for the Explorer brakes. Old is 2-3/8" and new is 2-1/2".

By cutting 1" off each axle tube I now need shorter axles so I
need to have cut off about 1" on each side. Rather than butcher the axle cut by using a chop saw, I have it done properly in a big lathe. Moser Axles ARE HARD! Three carbide bits later they are perfect.

Have to buy Explorer emergency brake cables as the GM "A-Body" ones will
not work properly and because they are NOS I will save them for another project.

Once I get the correct E-Brake cable pieces I should be cooking.

Hot Rod did an article on the swap a few years ago and really liked the
swap. The other thing I like is the Ford Explorer parts will be out there
for at least another 10 years minimum.

Most of the TA (Non original) guys have long *****canned the factory rear
brakes for the better late model aftermarket or Factory parts.

Just for your info.

Tom V.

Thanks for all the response now I have more research to do befor I order anew rear

I bought a Ford 9" with Moser axles from a local speed shop for my 1967 GTO. I ordered the 1965 model because it was 1" narrower. I have driven and raced with it for 8 years and couldn't be happier with it.

Moser now offers the Dana 60 with the explorer brake package for the GM A-body. Go ahead, try and break it!

Speaking of rearends, how strong is the 31 spline 8.8? Currie sells an 8.8 with 9 inch ends and axles plus disc brakes.
I was thinking of building my own 3:73 posi and using stock 9 inch axles shorted and resplined.

A 8.8 rear will start to have issues at 600 hp.

Been there on my 600 hp "pool car"

Manual transmissions do not help the rear either or people
who shift 1st, second, first, like some of the people I
had to give the car to for performance evaluations.

Below 550 hp and with an automatic (no brake) the rear will
be fine.

Tom V.

The Dana won't.

I like the look of the 12 bolt w/alum. cover just want to figure out the brakes and wheel backspace. I think I'm going with the tko-600 trans. any comments on this trans. What clutch would you suggest.

After my nightmares with 12 bolt rears, Do almost ANY style rear including the stock one (I will argue that it is every bit as tough as the over rated and way over price junk called 12 bolt) than to pi$$ away money on a 12 bolt. Go to drop out pumpkin style rear either the 9" Ford with the explorer (but I bet the Aviator brakes are better! they are larger) or as Bob said the Mopar 8 3/4. Better gear selection than 12 bolt fall apart rears too.

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by bmpmdf:
After my nightmares with 12 bolt rears, <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

bmpmdf - could you eloborate on the problems you experienced with 12 bolts? I just sank some significant money into a 12 bolt for my bird and so far it's holding up fine but I haven't put real power to it yet.

Tom V - one of my friends just built a race 8.8 with mark williams components for his turbocharged mustang. I believe he went with 35 spline axles. Best run to date is in the 5.70's 1/8 dragging the rear bumper with a 1.3x 60 ft tripped by the rear tires. It seems to be holding up OK for him so far.

I agree, go with the 9". I have one in my '64 GTO, built by Currie. It has all stock Ford parts in it (Detroit Locker, 31-spline axles). I run it with a moderately-built 400-horse 455 attached to a transbraked TH400.

10 years of racing with slicks and no failures. I don't have the most powerful engine (car runs 12.0s), but having a reliable drivetrain is a real blessing. I think for a few more $$ the 9" will be the best choice. http://forums.performanceyears.com/g...icon_smile.gif


My bracket car. http://pysales.com/images/evil.gif

The rear was custom-narrowed to fit my 10X28" slicks, no wheelwell mods. http://forums.performanceyears.com/g.../icon_cool.gif

Tom V - I was searching the archives and found this thread. What didn't you like about the big ford drum brakes? I thought that sounded like a pretty good setup, just wanted to get some more info. Thanks,

Steve

I am gonna have to remeber this one sounds like Tom saved me some headaches! and JYD of course!

b-man,
Does the Currie rear end take the original GTO brakes?