I purchased a Lakewood bellhousingd for my 65 GTO with a 76 455ci engine and the one they sent me does not have any clearence at all to let the clutch rod get past it's mounting ears to the clutch fork, which is thiers also. It's not an alignment problem, that was done with thier location kit. [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_mad.gif[/img]

What's the deal???? [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_rolleyes.gif[/img] [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_mad.gif[/img]

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I purchased a Lakewood bellhousingd for my 65 GTO with a 76 455ci engine and the one they sent me does not have any clearence at all to let the clutch rod get past it's mounting ears to the clutch fork, which is thiers also. It's not an alignment problem, that was done with thier location kit. [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_mad.gif[/img]

What's the deal???? [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_rolleyes.gif[/img] [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_mad.gif[/img]

http://kurtsplates.homestead.com/files/goathed.jpg

http://www.kurtspontiac.homestead.com/Dannys65GTO.html

Post pics.

But none with Mr. Clean in the background.

[img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_razz.gif[/img]

I have 4 of those Olds/Pontismacked bellhousings. They all look the same, so I'm having difficulty understanding what you're saying....

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doesn't the clutch fork stick out sufficiently past the bellhousing? seems that there would be plenty of room from the fork to the z-bar for the cluth rod.
maybe i am not visualizing your problem to well [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_confused.gif[/img]

I think I know what you are referring to. You'll have to grind it (the bellhousing). Pick up HPP March 2002 "Grasping For Grip" they show how they had to grind the bellhousing and block plate to make the clutch pushrod clear. One style rod is worse than the other. One uses the threaded swivel (worse) and the other uses a style of pushrod that threads into itself. Your 65 probably has the threaded swivel, my 67 does. [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_wink.gif[/img]

1967 GTO 400 4-speed (416) #62's 11:1 solid lifter 6.8 Eagle/Ross 11.87@115 (w/mufflers)-->so far!

To visualize the proglem..clutch fork is depressed using a pushrod, that pushrod cannot be placed in the proper place (saddle) of the clutch fork due to the Lakewood bellshousing ears extending well beyound the stock bellhousing limits, thus creating a really bad angle for the pushrod between the clutch fork and the clutch assembly....does that make sense?


KGTO, thought of that, but does'nt it void the track use of the car, becomes a modification, and that's not allowed for safety reasons? [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_confused.gif[/img]

I just want to know why Lakewood would put out a product knowing it has problems (especially sice it has allready been addressed by HPP in print), and tell you it will fit for your application? [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_mad.gif[/img] [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_mad.gif[/img] [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_mad.gif[/img]

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http://www.kurtspontiac.homestead.com/Dannys65GTO.html

correct me if i am wrong but couldn't you grind the peoblem area and paint it red to match?

Larry that's what lakewood says, but I am at the track's mercy if they want to get shi#ty acording to them. The thing is Lakewood has known about this flaw, it has a simple fix, and yet they require you to make modifications in the field..seems to be a lot of that out here...that sucks.. [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_mad.gif[/img]

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Not sure what to tell you, I think this is your only fix, unless you get into moving the lower arm on your z-bar closer to the frame (on the countershaft), but then this will throw your geometry off. I dont think you will lose much at all for strength. I would think you would be just fine. I suppose you could contact NHRA, I don't think I would talk to your track officials, if NHRA approves it, you would be fine. Or if you get it recertified, what can they say. You might have to recertify it over the winter anyhow. Make sure you are also using an adjustable pivot to keep everything OK. [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif[/img]

1967 GTO 400 4-speed (416) #62's 11:1 solid lifter 6.8 Eagle/Ross 11.87@115 (w/mufflers)-->so far!

goat...
i wouldn't be concerned. your not comprimising the integrity of the housing that contains the possibility of a clutch explosion. i don't think that the guys at baytown would look that closely at the car. i'm sure if they catch a glimpse of the presence of a scattershield, then everything is cool.

I ran into this with McKinney. I got my new bellhousing and the had the starter pocket located for a pre 64. (Shows how long it's been since anyone had them do a bell housing, it was probably MT!) It had to be moved and recertified. Technically if this is not done any tech guy could be a jerk. I would tell Lakewood that they should repair and recert. That's what McKinney did for me.

Wade Congdon
BOP Engineering
Hi-Performance Specialty Parts for Buick, Olds, and Pontiac
www.bopengineering.com

Wade:

Marty had a McKinney, so they SHOULD have gotten it right.

[img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_wink.gif[/img]

A used Trick can is the route I'm taking. Lotsa used Hemi and BBC cans out there that can be restamped for a Pontiac pattern. If you use a blower-mounted starter,the lack of a starter pocket isn't an issue. Also, if one chooses to use the IA block, it's all ready drilled for a Chevy pattern, so all that remains is the recertification cost.

Clutch costs can also be kept under control by having your billet crank cut with a Hemi or BBC pattern crank flange. Losta good used clutches out there as well. Very few with a Pontiac pattern flange, though.

[img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_wink.gif[/img]

Talked to Lakewood for a while this morning and told them this was bulls@#t. They basically said that it was too much of a hassle to get on the cad machine and redo the drawings to change the production to make it fit for "just a few car's"... so they new it was a problem... [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_mad.gif[/img]..

Why doesn't Lakewood at least put the solution in with the bellhousings so that it can be ground down BEFORE the engine goes into the car?????? [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_mad.gif[/img] [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_mad.gif[/img] [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_mad.gif[/img]

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http://www.kurtspontiac.homestead.com/Dannys65GTO.html

Goathead, My trans is out and I was planning on installing a Lakewood shield when it goes back together. I REALLY don't want to lift that big honkin' 5 speed up for multiple trial fittings! Will I be able to figure out where and how much grinding is required with trans and bell on the bench? Maybe I will paint my factory bell housing red and pretend... thanks!

Tim Baker

Goathead

I couldnt find a Pontiac one here in NZ so purchased (cheap) a used (gasp) BB Chev 2 peice unit. Heavy but handy if you pull the clutch a couple of times

Main dowels linned up and most bolt holes but as stated the starter needs to be moved and a couple of "ears" welded on to take the 2 highest bolts on the block. Not a small job but have yet to see a 2 peice one for Pontiacs.

This would be a viable alternative if as stated a blower starter was used. As for modifying it and its certification you are at the mercy of the tech inspectors but have yet to see someone bounced here if the mods look ok

Be sure to dial in that bellhousing!!!!

Dont want it hanging up on big number shifts!!!!

Working on going faster!!!

Danny:
Don't know what to tell you about your problem. I used a Lakewood on my '69 GTO without a problem. I wonder if Lakewood fit it to the '68 and later "A" and "F" bodies then used that as one size fits all. If you need any measurements from my bellhousing let me know. We can see if Lakewood changed things since '84.

"Suppose you were an idiot... And suppose you were a member of Congress... seems I repeated myself." --Mark Twain
http://members.aol.com/jetmech15/gto/topless.jpg

455,
The Ansen scattershield I have on my GTO is a two piece unit. They sometimes pop up for sale. I had mine powdercoated red also. It has an old NHRA approved stamp and will contain a clutch explosion.

1967 GTO 400 4-speed (416) #62's 11:1 solid lifter 6.8 Eagle/Ross 11.87@115 (w/mufflers)-->so far!

TimInjun, they seemed to indicate to me that it was a 65-67 problem, that's why they did not want to put out the effort to update it.... [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_mad.gif[/img]

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Originally posted by KGTO:

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>
The Ansen scattershield I have on my GTO is a two piece unit. They sometimes pop up for sale. I had mine powdercoated red also. It has an old NHRA approved stamp and will contain a clutch explosion.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>



http://forums.performanceyears.com/g...1&m=3196033641

[img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_wink.gif[/img]

LOL, I thought I saw one somewhere recently.

455,
Save yourself some work and buy this from Scott! [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_razz.gif[/img]

1967 GTO 400 4-speed (416) #62's 11:1 solid lifter 6.8 Eagle/Ross 11.87@115 (w/mufflers)-->so far!

I have been running the two piece Ansen scattershield on mine since 1975. The top weighs 39 pounds and the bottom weighs 13 pounds. For header clearance you might have to grind the outside edges off where the two pieces come together, but it is no big deal.

http://www.jimspontiac.homestead.com/Index.html

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Thanks, KGTO....

However, shipping on that thing to New Zealand would be too much money!

Probably cheaper to buy it it's own seat on an airliner headed over that way!

[img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_eek.gif[/img]

Scott

Ditto on the shipping. The costs are normally more than the part itself. [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_mad.gif[/img]

Then there is our lousy exchange rate of $0.42 to your dollar and tax on top of that. [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_rolleyes.gif[/img]

The joys of living in such a great place [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_wink.gif[/img]

Working on going faster!!!