PY Online Forums - Bringing the Pontiac Hobby Together

PY Online Forums - Bringing the Pontiac Hobby Together (https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/forums/index.php)
-   Pontiac - Street (https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=418)
-   -   670 heads and pump gas (https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=482639)

az67goat 06-21-2006 06:32 PM

670 heads and pump gas
 
I have a 67 GTO with a 69 400 in it with 4x-7h heads. Not the fastest 67 GTO on the road but it runs great on 91 octane. I'm going to try some 87 when I get back on the road soon after a year and a half of body work.
I have been thinking about going to 670 heads. I have heard conflicting stories about running pump gas with these heads due to the higher compression.

Can you run 91 octane with 670 heads or not? Anyone doing this?
Thanks!

BILTIT 06-21-2006 06:41 PM

If you do a search you will find some threads on this.

tc 06-21-2006 10:24 PM

It all depends on what the compression ratio is. I have 670 heads and am probably pushing it with pump gas ( 91 octane )at 9.9 to 1 compression.

BILTIT 06-21-2006 10:52 PM

I ran them on my old 400 at about 10.4:1 and 91-93 octane. Had lots of overlap in cam, only thing that saved me i think, and i ran fairly rich.

Midnight Goat 06-21-2006 11:10 PM

I have a 67 with 670 heads not sure of my compression ratio but i havent noticed any pinging due to the gas. I put mobil 93 in the tank.

az67goat 06-22-2006 12:13 AM

I did some searching and found some conficting info so I started this thread. Some say you need dished pistons, some say they run fine with 93. I thought I'd just try to develop a thread where everyone could weigh in on this ? specifically. Thanks for the replys.

BVR421 06-22-2006 01:24 AM

why would you want to swap from the ones you have?

bobbyj1 06-22-2006 08:03 AM

Before my rebuild my basically stock 67 400 with 670 heads and the 068 cam required me to mix 110 50/50 with 93 in order to stop pinging. I have since rebuilt and have a small dish in the pistons as well as some mild porting to get the chamber to around 98cc and 9.5 to 1 compression. I have been running well on straight 93 octane now.

6567GTO 06-22-2006 08:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BILTIT
I ran them on my old 400 at about 10.4:1 and 91-93 octane. Had lots of overlap in cam, only thing that saved me i think, and i ran fairly rich.

That's what I've found to be true as well. I'm running some 670's on my 455. Last cam it pinged like the dickens, a street/strip hyd. This cam, a solid drag race comp cam with lots of overlap, I'm finding that I can use 93 when needed to get home from a far away show, for example. I don't do it regularly but can get away with it when needed. It has 12.1 compression too! I really need to fatten up my carb again, now that it's driven more on the street these days.

Phil

Brian D'Amico 06-22-2006 08:41 AM

When I ran my 67 (670's) GTO last year, I ran Sunoco 94 in it and it ran just fine. I never tried 91 though. Now, with my rebuild, I bought the TRW L2440 (beveled edge piston) and it should get me down to 9.5:1. I'll feel a bit more comfortable running at 9.5 instead of 10:1.

PONTIAC DUDE 06-22-2006 09:09 AM

Depends on the piston. Most cast pistons have the 8 eyebrow deal and the compression is Ok with 670's. But modify the head chamber for less chance of detonation.
Forged flat top is another story.

I preferr 9.5 to 9.8-1 max compression and pump gas.

Skip Fix 06-22-2006 09:47 AM

My RAIV heads on a 400 had not audible ping/detonation on the dyno, and was using muffler on it.Picked up 5-7 hp on race gas over 93 octane so HAD detonation going on.

Dish!

6567GTO 06-22-2006 10:47 AM

Inaudible detonation is definately a concern of mine which is why I still mix 110 and 93.

gearbanger 06-22-2006 11:19 AM

I had a .040 over 400 that had 670's with 72cc (verified) chambers. I had inaudible detonation and destroyed the bearings 3 times. I first had a pretty big cam, something like a 302-310 duration. It lasted the longest, Then I went with like a 290 cam when I rebuilt it. I lasted less time. The last time, I had a 278-284 comp cam, and switched to a set of 62's with a 74 cc (verified) chamber. It lasted the least of all. I have been the poster child for detonation I think. But I was dumb about that stuff back then and that was before I found these forums. I also always had hot running problems that sort of acted up at idle in traffic. Don't know if the two are related, but I now have a stroked 400 with KRE heads putting out about 550-600 hp and I have zero hot running issues. It will run 170 all day in stopped traffic on a 90 degree day.

That makes me smile. :)

67TIGER 06-22-2006 12:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian D'Amico
I bought the TRW L2440 (beveled edge piston) and it should get me down to 9.5:1. I'll feel a bit more comfortable running at 9.5 instead of 10:1.

Where did you get a set of the TRW L2440 pistons from? I can't seem to find anyone who carries them around here.
I would really like to lower the compression ratio but keep the outside appearance looking stock with the 670 heads.

PONTIAC DUDE 06-22-2006 01:55 PM

TRW is no longer in business. Bought out and changed to Federal Mogul.

You then can have then dished to the compression ratio your want.

Skip Fix 06-22-2006 04:50 PM

Many guys post here their car is running fine on pump gas my RAIV had a moderate amount of overlap also. I'd bet a dyno test with race gas they would see a need for more octane.

Dish options-custom from Ken etc, in whatever size you want. KB hypereutectic-be sure to gap the top ring EXACTLYto thier specs or break ring lands., Get a F-M(TRW) forged 2262 machine a 2.8x0.100 dish on the lathe -the old HO dished Ken Crocie used to sell., I think that figures around a 9.9cc dish. Bet by the time you add the machine work Ken can get you a better deal.

Other option is opening the 670s chamber closer to a later 68 and up chambers. Tom Wilhite has a special Bridgeport cutter for this. That should get you the 10cc easy if you don't need a fresh rebuild. I always thought opening them to copy a late model Fast Burn SBC chamber(biased toward the exhaust) and keeping some of the quench would be a good thing to try on 670s and drop the compression.

az67goat 06-22-2006 05:01 PM

Sorry...just got back to the forum.
I wanted to go to the 670s to get more power and look stock.
From what I'm seeing here, I will probably just stick with the 4x-7hs for now. I just got done with alot of GTO down time for body work.
My dream would be to have a 67 400 block with 670 heads and a stroker crank. I have also heard that you can't run dished pistons with the 462 stroker crank, so I guess I'd have to modify the heads to increase the chamber size.
Tahnks again...

Brian D'Amico 06-23-2006 10:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 67TIGER
Where did you get a set of the TRW L2440 pistons from? I can't seem to find anyone who carries them around here.
I would really like to lower the compression ratio but keep the outside appearance looking stock with the 670 heads.

I bought them thru a PY member but you can get them here:

http://www.flatlanderracing.com/

Skip Fix 06-23-2006 05:04 PM

Ross,JE or BRC can make any dish you want for any stroke. I have 20cc dish on my 72cc E head 455 punmp gas motor. It didn't need more octane on the dyno.

GRX 07-26-2006 02:03 AM

This is exactly what I went through when building the 400 for my '69 GTO several years ago. Eventually ended up going with the 670's with TRW Powerforged flat top pistons. 8 valve reliefs with beveled edge.
These would seem to be the modern equivalent : http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

Final compression was about 10:1. Which was managable with 93-94 octane with some timing adjusments. Cam overlap surely affected this as well. This is not to say that I didn't have some detonation going on like Skip said in post #12. Never had my engine Dyno tested.

GTOGreg 07-26-2006 06:10 AM

While my stock original 400 WT with 670's was running seemingly fine on 91 octane plus 100 octane (50/50, sometimes even 25:75 mix to get 93-95 octane), I'm not taking a chance with my rebuild. Having Dave at SD work his chamber mod and then I'm looking for anywhere from 5-9cc's to come from a piston dish. Lastly I'm going to get the block zero-decked.

Tim john 07-26-2006 06:25 AM

I just purchased ROSS pistons through Butler, dished 10cc for a 9:5 compression in a 67 WS engine with 670 heads for my original H.O. four speed car. Jim told me this will be fine for a street driven car on pump gas, he will be receiving the 670 heads this winter for flow and port work, nothing exotic just upgrading for the street. My car is a 13 second car in the 1/4 mile so it is not setting any land speed records but it will be a robust engine for the street without any spark knock. The ROSS pistons are a work of art, just beautiful ! and another plus was they (pistons) were 200 grams lighter than stock each so I now have 1,600 grams less rotational weight on the crank which is a huge benefit for wear and tear on the bottom end. I also went with Eagle H beam connecting rods and total seal piston rings (file fit). Everything will be balanced (rotating assembly). Block square decked as well.

Tim john---

BILTIT 07-26-2006 09:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tim john
I just purchased ROSS pistons through Butler, dished 10cc for a 9:5 compression in a 67 WS engine with 670 heads for my original H.O. four speed car. Jim told me this will be fine for a street driven car on pump gas, he will be receiving the 670 heads this winter for flow and port work, nothing exotic just upgrading for the street. My car is a 13 second car in the 1/4 mile so it is not setting any land speed records but it will be a robust engine for the street without any spark knock. The ROSS pistons are a work of art, just beautiful ! and another plus was they (pistons) were 200 grams lighter than stock each so I now have 1,600 grams less rotational weight on the crank which is a huge benefit for wear and tear on the bottom end. I also went with Eagle H beam connecting rods and total seal piston rings (file fit). Everything will be balanced (rotating assembly). Block square decked as well.

Tim john---

I agree, the ross pistons are nice!

Hillard 07-26-2006 10:25 AM

I know someone running a 455 + .030, flat top pistons, mild cam,and 670 heads. He runs fine on pump gas. His secret.........water injection. He swears by it.

Lloyd-TX 07-26-2006 11:16 AM

Open those chambers up a bit - PROPERLY. Zero deck the block. Have someone help select a PROPER camshaft. Careful tuning, including advance curve and carburetor and it'll run fine on 93 octane with no spark knock or detonation.

My advice is NOT to used bevel edged or eight valve relief pistons. More downsides to those than benefits, such as reduced quench, more edges to hold carbon (hot spots) and poor burn patterns. Most efficient would be custom, two valve relief flat tops or reverse deflector deals, but those are custom, made to order and big $$$.

Once again - ZERO deck that dude and do NOT use a thicker head gasket,

Tim john 07-26-2006 11:17 AM

I have an original Edelbrock water injection unit from the mid-70's called "Vara-jection. I removed this back from my car in about 1979 or 80 and it is currently up in the barn loft, it did work but I was not a fan of putting water into the cylinders, I was paranoid of hurting my pistons but no damage ever occured and I ran it for two summers. I ran the water line into my center tri power carburetor through the chrome lid, it just killed me to drill a hole in that original lid even back then. I just had AIH chrome in Iowa fix the hole and re-plate this very same lid last month after all these years. I am going with dished pistons now as stated above, back then I was looking for an easy, cheap way out to stop the spark knock, parts and cars are too hard to come by today for gadgets so I will pay the price for quality ...gladly.

Tim john---

Hillard 07-26-2006 11:49 AM

I have done a little research about water injection and have found nothing bad about it as long as it's done properly. Some say they have taken the engine apart after years of using it and it looked like it had just been steam cleaned. It needs to be a fine mist. You have to use the correct pressure and nozzles. I'm not recommending it, I haven't tried it myself (although I'm thinking about it), it's just another idea. fwiw.

GRX 07-26-2006 05:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lloyd-TX
Open those chambers up a bit - PROPERLY. Zero deck the block. Have someone help select a PROPER camshaft. Careful tuning, including advance curve and carburetor and it'll run fine on 93 octane with no spark knock or detonation.

My advice is NOT to used bevel edged or eight valve relief pistons. More downsides to those than benefits, such as reduced quench, more edges to hold carbon (hot spots) and poor burn patterns. Most efficient would be custom, two valve relief flat tops or reverse deflector deals, but those are custom, made to order and big $$$.

Good advice Lloyd.
Feel I need to clarify my last post .... my intention was to point out a possible solution for those without the funds or means to get custom pistons, or have the chambers on their 670 heads machined.

With above said ... for my next 400 build I will probably open up the 72cc chambers on my 061 heads and use a proper set of flat tops. For those who don't know, the 061 are basically 670's with open chambers. If you see a pair of these rare heads grab them! Most likely they will be going cheap because of the press-in studs. Very easy fix for a competent shop.

Lloyd-TX 07-26-2006 06:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GRX
Good advice Lloyd.
Feel I need to clarify my last post .... my intention was to point out a possible solution for those without the funds or means to get custom pistons, or have the chambers on their 670 heads machined.

With above said ... for my next 400 build I will probably open up the 72cc chambers on my 061 heads and use a proper set of flat tops. For those who don't know, the 061 are basically 670's with open chambers. If you see a pair of these rare heads grab them! Most likely they will be going cheap because of the press-in studs. Very easy fix for a competent shop.

Agreed - my advice is a budget buster, fo' sho'.

Refresh my memory - the 061 castings are what - '67 big car heads?

JKrull66 07-26-2006 07:22 PM

Opening the 670 Chamber
 
[QUOTE=Skip Fix]

Other option is opening the 670s chamber closer to a later 68 and up chambers. Tom Wilhite has a special Bridgeport cutter for this. That should get you the 10cc easy if you don't need a fresh rebuild. ()()()()

I have heard of this process, I have a set of 670's that I would like to have this done. Can the process be done on heads that are assembled or at least already have guides. Do you have any more info, Location, Cost, Contact info, Web site ?
Thanks JK

dhallz71 07-26-2006 10:38 PM

www.wilhiteautomotive.net

dhallz71 07-26-2006 10:39 PM

CORRECTION--www.wilhiteauto.net

GRX 07-28-2006 05:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lloyd-TX
>>>>>>

Refresh my memory - the 061 castings are what - '67 big car heads?

Sorry man, missed your post before. A couple PY members have had great success with the 061 heads after some modifications. Yes I think you may be right about them being installed in bag cars - with a 2bbl carb believe it or not. The ones I have came out of a '67 GTO w/4bbl but there is always the chance the heads came from another car.

Finding info on these heads is difficult. Found more info in these forums than everywhere else combined. Member Will has a ported set & has submitted some good posts on the 061 heads.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Will
Seriously, the 061 heads are a little-known "possible" performance gem. They are only hampered by their lack of screw-in studs which adds about $150 to the price of rebuilding them for performance use. I say they are a "possible" performance gem because mine don't have a shortblock to go on quite yet and I don't know anyone else who's tested them to see what they'll do.

Here's what I do know about them: They use the 2.11/1.77" valves and are the first "open chamber" head Pontiac produced. The chamber design is very similar (hard to tell the difference side-by-side) to what was eventually used on the RAIV heads. The chamber has a more open design with a bit less quench area and a lot less valve shrouding than any of the other typical open chamber heads produced from '68 - on. The intake ports are shaped pretty much the same as the 670 heads in that they have a very tall short-turn radius which gives them outstanding low-lift flow. Properly ported they can flow great numbers as Phillygoat pointed out. Mine flow 273cfm intake and 185cfm exhaust at .550" lift and have excellent low-lift numbers as well. Not a whole lot of work had to be done to get those numbers.

The unique chamber design and the promise of a little extra power from a design the engineers felt was good enough for the RAIV heads is what convinced me to go with them. If you can swing the extra cost to convert them to screw-in studs they'll make a fine performance head.
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...10&postcount=5
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

1967 # 061.

Nice, tall short turn radius, shallow chamber promotes good flame travel and almost no valve shrouding.
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...4&postcount=17

Hope you don't mind me quoting you here Will. The way I see it, the more people who know about these largely undiscovered heads the less likely any more sets will be sent away for scrap.

Most sources I see list the 061 as small valve heads, but they obviously are not. Probably another reason they are so rare. Know I have seen a couple sets in swap meets that never sold because most see the press-in studs & keep on going.

chiphead 07-28-2006 06:39 PM

I've also got a set of 061s that I took off a 400 motor. Originally from a '67 Cat with 400 and 2bbl. Big valves, have all exhaust bolt holes, early accy bolt system, no EGR, push-in studs,etc. Approx 72-75 CC open chambers. Great heads as far as I can tell. Since I had a set of 670s I used them instead. Still have the 061s in storage. I think they are often confused with the '67 143 heads, which were used on the same cars and MAY have been small valve heads.

And Ive mentioned this before, I wouldnt modify a set of 670s if I didnt absolutely have to. They're a one-year only head with the 400 big valve size and later valve angle and closed chambers. As more people cut them to open chamber, an unmolested set will get very rare.

chip

GRX 07-28-2006 06:51 PM

Hi Chip. If you ever want to sell the 061's let me know ... < wink > :biggerGri

Sounds like you were in the same boat as me. I traded these 061's for a set of 6X-4's with customer (more on that in my other thread). Was tweeking them in my spare time at work when the 670's came along. The 061 have been sitting in storage half done ever since. Hopefully I will be able to finially use them soon.

chiphead 07-28-2006 06:55 PM

Yeah, since I was building a pump-gas 400, I used Ross pistons to drop compression with the 670s. Now in the low 9 area with static comp. But the engine revvs so freely with the long rods and lightweight internals. I'm using the SBC 400 1/16" ring pack relocated downwards on piston. In the future I can spray the motor and not worry about melting a slug or butting a ring.

chip

Skip Fix 07-28-2006 06:57 PM

You could also do it with a die grinder, but it would be moderate work. I would bet that would open them up just about right for pump gas and flat tops.

Mr. Wilhite has some pretty awesome old Pontiacs he and his wife race, one with an EFI Victor on it!


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:27 AM.