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LS3/4L70E into 68 Lemans
Since I moved the Lemans into the basement today, I decided to start a thread to document the project. I purchased the Lemans through eBay in April. The car was located about 80 miles from my house so I was able to inspect the car before I bid on it. The condition of the car while not great is also not that bad. The car spent most of its life in a garage, however the shelf between the rear window and the trunk is rusted and there is rust on the quarter panels under the vinyl roof. I am worried about the roof, but until I pull the vinyl I won't know. The floor pan and the trunk floor are not rusted. I purchased the car without an engine. The eBay seller bought the car only for the engine block (matching numbers) for a 68 firebird project he was working on. It looks like the fenders and hood was removed since a number of bolts are missing and nothing comes close to aligning and there are no alignment shims.
EBay Picture - This is before the seller removed the engine and the front end. Why the hood and fenders were painted green with a spray can I don't know. Under the green is the same shade of red. http://peripheraltech.com/gto/gto1.jpg My plans are to restore the car to have a stock appearing interior and exterior with improvemnets that would not stand out. For the interior I plan on using a radio that supports USB/MP3. No need for CD now that 16GB memory sticks are available. I plan to add power windows, power door locks (electric) and 6 way power seats for both the driver and passenger side, cruise control and a rear view mirror with temperature/compass readout. Other updates include a tilt steering column and a Hurst dual-gate shifter with the mod that supports the 4L60. I plan on using the stock 68 guages and tach. Exterior Upgrades - I have a GTO hood, GTO tail lights, and Enduro Bumper and hidden head lights to install. My goal for this project is to create a car that could be used as a daily driver with good street manners. I'm not looking to make this a race only car or have a rock hard ride. If I want that I can drive my 06 GTO. That said I do want to improve the handling over the stock 68 suspension. Perhaps my 06 GTO was modified by its former owner, since its ride is bone jarring and hard cornering produces no body roll. I don't want my Lemans suspension to become like that of my 06 GTO. I want it to be somewhere in between. |
Dragging the car into the basement.
http://peripheraltech.com/gto/gto5.jpg I plan on installing the engine and transmission before I do the restoration work. After sorting out the swap problems and making sure the engine and transmisiion are fine, I plan to remove the engine and do a body off frame restoration. And the LS3 engine. http://peripheraltech.com/gto/gto6.jpg |
Nice! Good luck on the project. There are two threads that can help you along the way.
Andrew |
I took a few hour today and pulled the front end. It's clear that the front end had been removed since bolts were either missing or loose. Total time to remove the front end was slightly more than two hours.
http://peripheraltech.com/gto/gto7.jpg Major parts that I have for this are: GM LS3 crate engine 430HP 4L70E (Has shipped, due next week) Speartech Harness and computer Edelbrock Engine swap mounts LS series gas tank - Rick's Hot Rod Shop Autokraft Oil Pan Radiator with electric fans http://peripheraltech.com/gto/radiator.jpg Although I have quite a bit of the suspension/front end parts, i'm not going to install any of them until after getting the engine installed and running. I have Global West tubular Negative Roll A-arms. These arms use a b-body spindle and rotors or 1LE rotors (5-4.75 instead of the b-body 5-5). I don't yet know what coil springs to order. I probably need to wait until I get the engine installed. Then I can weight the car. I am guessing that the car will loose between 200 and 300 pounds when completed. I have orderd Pontiac Rallye II, Steel, Chrome, 16 in.x 7 Wheel Vintiques from Summit. These have been on back order for almost 3 months. Although I wanted the 8" wide wheel the quoted time on the 8" wide wheels was summer 09. I plan on running 255/50/16 on the rear. I'm not sure what will fit the front. |
Nice project. One I hope to take on for a 69.
does anyone know of or have pictures of a late model dash installed in an A-body? I know it is real common among F-bodies. John |
NICE...
Looks like you have a good start. I have a similar project. A 68 LeMans with LS1/4L60E, a Firebird dash, wiring, gauges and center console. One of these days it will be finished. Right now it's out getting rear quarters and outer wheelouses installed. It had LOTS of rust, so it has been a long haul (Damn Ohio winters). There's a link to the build pics in my sig. Any questions, just ask.
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http://s118.photobucket.com/albums/o...view=slideshow Tony |
Tony-
Looks great in there. How wide is the space and how wide is the dash? I thought maybe a full size truck dash might work too. John |
Cool project, doing the same with my 70 lemans sport. Are the edelbrock engine mounts beter than the brp mounts? I was going to use there mounts and crossmember.
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The BRP mounts require you to figure out where to mount the engine by trial and error and then either drill holes or weld the mounts in. It does not bolt to your existing holes. I didn't know this until after I received their kit and decided that using the BRP would take too much effort to install. BTW I have the BRP mounts and crossmember. PM me if you want to purchase.
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Thanks for the info. So if the edelbrock mounts use the existing holes in the frame, do they make a crossmember for the trans also? what are you thinking about using? Do you have to cut the frame to make the engine fit with these mounts? Ive seen people have to do this.
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Edelbrock does not make a crossmember. I think it is possible to move the stock crossmember and re-drill the frame. Information about crossmembers for automatic A-body conversions seems scarce since almost all of the conversions I have read about used a manual transmission. The down side of the Edelbrock engine mounts is that you need to relocate the AC compressor or notch the frame. At least this is what most people say. I will be doing a test fit soon. (When my 4L70E arrives) You are able to keep the AC in the stock location with the BRP kit. The BRP kit will also allow you to use a less expensive oil pan.
As soon as my transmission arrives I will find out about relocating the stock crossmember. |
Since my transmisison didn't shown up I stripped the vinyl top. The roof looks like it can be saved without replacing it. There are a few rust pits along the roof where the vinyl seam was on both sides. However these pits are not that deep. It looks worse in the picture than it is. The black spots are the rust pits. not holes.
http://peripheraltech.com/gto/gto119.jpg However the quarters are bad. This was expected as I had already purchased full quarters and the rear window tray. The quarters are also rusted around the wheel opening. http://peripheraltech.com/gto/gto118.jpg The amazing thing is the trunk floor is not rusted at all. http://peripheraltech.com/gto/gto116.jpg Here is the speartech wiring harness. http://peripheraltech.com/gto/gto125.jpg The pedal didn't come with a bracket like the GMPP kit does. Do any of you know it the GMPP pedal bracket can be ordered seperately and what the part number is ? |
I got my cruise control stalk today. This should look great and not stand out in the 68 interior. I would have liked to use a 68 cruise control stalk, but it doesn't have the necessary switches to work. Pontiac used a on-off switch on the dash and just a push botton on the end of the turn signal lever. I'm not even sure Pontiac installed cruise control in a GTO till 69.
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Ideally a 8" rim would be my choice but Wheel Vintiques appears to have no interest in making them although they appear in their catalog. However my 7" wide wheels are now 5 weeks over due and no longer have a estimated delivery date. I didn't want 15" wheels since almost every tire I find has only a S or T speed rating. There are many tires available for 16" wheels with Z or W speed rating. As to fitting a 255/50/16 on the 7" wide rim, every tire that I looked at stated wheels with a 7-9" range. One of my thoughts was to use 245/50/16's front and rear. My brake/suspension upgrade is now in limbo since discs are not going to work with the 14" wheels that are now on the car. I want a Ralley II type of wheel and not an aftermarket wheel. The 17" Wheel Vintiques Ralley II wheels doesn't really look like a Pontiac wheel and a set of them would be more than $2000. It looks like I'm SOL on the wheels at the moment.
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fbrown, did you have a chance to test fit the engine yet? Im about to test fit my 04 gto engine trans in my 70 lemans sport. I have the brp mounts but im wondering if the edelbrock long tube headers are going to fit with the engine sitting higher. I will post some pics soon.
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Not yet, my transmission has not arrived. It failed it's road test and my builder had to order replacements parts from GM.
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fbrown, I see you are going with the autokraft oil pan. Do you think there pan will fit better than the lh8 pan?
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Others have reported that it fits better than the LH8 (doesn't hang as low). I hope to be able to do a test fit next weekend. My transmisison shipped last week. :)
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It was not a good weekend for the trial fit of the engine/transmisison/oil pan. I didn't realize that the LS1/4L70E bolts to the oil pan. ALthough my autokraft pan looks like it will clear the crossmember, the lack of support for transmission makes me think there is a good chance of breaking the transmission bell housing. The only option I can think of is to have Street and Performance modify my GM LS3 oil pan. All of the other choices appear to hang too low or not clear the crossmember.
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:( Things are going from bad to worse on this project. I test fitted the engine today, but the motor mounts don't line up. I don't know if I have mis-matched parts or the frame is bent. There is some evidence that the left side was hit in the past. There is some bending where the bumper attaches to the frame. I am at a loss as to how to proceed. The entire front end was removed by the person I bought the car from. He only bought the car for its engine, so there was no engine installed and I have no knowledge if the body panels aligned since they were loose and the shims were not even reinstalled.
In test fitting the engine I had to remove half of the AC box. There doesn't look like there is enough room to re-install it it so it looks like I will need to run an after market system. I don't think anyone makes a complete kit for the 68 so I guess it will be a custom system. :mad: Something else I didn't plan on. http://peripheraltech.com/gto/engine-test-1-web.jpg This is how much the aligment is off. There is a bolt in the other side. http://peripheraltech.com/gto/engine-mount-1-web.jpg |
I would measure the frame from all different points to see if it is bent or diamond shaped. To bend an engine crossmember is not to easy and I think you would see more damage to the frame. Are the bolt holes for the engine mount on the frame the same on both sides? There is alot of holes on my frame that are off. If you cannot find anything wrong, I can measure my frame mounts to see if they are different.
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You might have to slot the top holes on both sides to make it fit. Edelbrock says to do this on the 64-67 but 68-72 might need to do this to.
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While it wouldn't take much to make it fit, I worry that the frame might be bent. (Or wasn't repaired correctly in the past) I found a hole in one side of the frame that was elongated and a hole on the other side that had been pushed out. I believe chains may have been attached at these points and the frame straightened. There aren't many measurements in the service manual for the front part of the frame. The distance between the frame rails checks out good. The engine that was installed in the car was installed in the other set of holes on the frame. (3 bolts) Since original engine had already been removed, I don't know if there was a problem when the original engine was removed. I don't know if the set of holes I am using was drilled correctly since they had never been used. From the slight wrinkle in the frame at the steering box, my guess is that side of the car had been hit from the side and may have bent the cross member slightly. Since there was never a engine installed in the other holes, I don't know if the hole locations are off or if the frame is bent.
Some measurements of the distance between the holes from side to side would be really nice if someone could provide them. I have also been searching for the dimensions of the motor mounts the see if mine are too high/thick, since it also appears if the pre-load plate was not installed the engine would fit. I am using Tall frame stands from Goodmark, engine mounts from Energy Suspension and Edelbrock LS1 engine plates. |
Top bolt holes-- at the top of the hole straight across is 19 1/4. Front and back holes are the same. I measured 2 frames and they are the same. This is for the holes that are oval on one side and round on the other. Those were the stock pontiac mount location.
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Thanks for the measurement. My frame is also 19-1/4" as shown in the picture. Maybe my frame is OK and my motor mount problem is cumulative dimensional errors caused by using parts from three different companies.
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Problem is solved. When I measured the Energy Suspension Motor Mounts, I found that one of the mounts was 3/32" taller than the other one. I put both of them in my press and applied a little pressure for a few seconds. Here is the result after reinstalling them.
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I got a transmission filler tube today. I had tried a 2002 Camaro tube and found that the mounting bracket didn't come close to any of the holes on the LS3 cylinder head. This filler tube uses the bell house mount.
BTW the bell house in the photo is not correct for an LS3 engine. I am waiting for the correct tube from my transmission guy. I have also given up on using the Autokraft oil pan. Although its fits in the car, it doesn't support the transmission bell house like a GM pan will. Almost half of the bell house would not be supported if using the Autokraft pan. I am ordering a Camaro oil pan modified by Street and Performance to fit an A-body. This tube is a TeckPak K77999U it costs about $30 with shipping http://peripheraltech.com/gto/dip1.jpg http://peripheraltech.com/gto/dip2.jpg http://peripheraltech.com/gto/dip3.jpg |
I had some progress and some setbacks today. I got the transmission in place so I could deal with the cross member. I am using the stock cross member. I don't know if there are different cross members but this one has two humps and had a powerglide hanging from it. No modification to the cross member was necessary. I have an Energy Suspension transmission mount and it bolted right in. It does appear to be taller than the Pontiac mount so I'm not sure what that will do to the drive shaft angle. One of the holes in the frame lined up so I only had to drill one hole in the frame on each side.
Setbacks: When test fitting the radiator I found that I have two different radiator to core support brackets. One of brackets holds a radiator 2-3/4" thick and the other 3-1/2" thick. My radiator needs the larger one. Unfortunately I can't find a listing for the larger bracket in any of my restoration catalogs. Another problem is that my radiator has a 1-3/4" outlet for the lower hose instead of the usual 1-1/2". There are hoses that work well if your radiator has a 1-1/2" outlet, so far I have not found a molded hose that looks like it will work. I may be forced to use one of those flexible hoses. |
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Any of the older GM auto trans bellhousings just bolt to the block only and they hold up fine. The added beef of the 4L70E bellhousing is a plus already, it looks a lot like one of the later TH400 bellhousings with the added stiffening rib in that area. I don't think you'll have any problems running the far-superior Autokraft pan versus the modified F-body pan that loses not only oil capacity but the factory windage tray from what I understand. I'll be using the Autokraft pan, it should work fine in my opinion. One question: Which flexplate did you end up using? According to the latest GM Performance Parts catalog the GM part # 12602448 flexplate (now superseded by GM part # 12606620 according to gmpartsdirect.com) is the correct one to use for any non-Corvette automatic transmisson applications, since the C6 Corvette uses a torque tube driveline with the trans mounted at the rear. |
Without a flywheel cover how would you keep junk from hitting the flywheel, rain, rocks etc. There is a large gap between the oil pan and the transmission. I will take some picture of it tomorrow. (or later today - its late here)
The flexpate I was sent was 12606620. I did order the other part number. I haven't installed it or the TC since I don't have the right bell housing. I just bolted the trans to the engine so I could deal with the crossmember. BTW I could not install the engine and trans as a single piece. The oil pan would not clear the crossmember or the engine hit the firewall. I had to installt the transmission from under the engine after bolting the engine in place. Maybe with a helper it would have been possible to install the engine/trans as a single unit but I was unable to get enough tilt without hitting something. |
Here are pictures showing the gap between the transmission and oil pan. Note the TC would be clearly visible if it had been installed.
http://peripheraltech.com/gto/trans1.jpg http://peripheraltech.com/gto/trans2.jpg http://peripheraltech.com/gto/trans3.jpg I would think that is too big of a gap to just leave open. opinions anyone? Other developments: My Pontiac Wheel Vintiques 16" wheels are apparently not going to be built any time soon. WV told Summit today, that they were not even planning to make any for at least 4 months. Since these were ordered in October I have to believe that they are only going to make a run when they get enough orders and since the delivery date keeps slipping, more and more people must be canceling their order. Which is what I am about to do as soon as I find something else to use. |
Here's a pic that I just snapped from underneath the passenger side of my 2002 WS6 Trans Am, it has the LS1 of course and a 4L60E trans:
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...s/DSC02511.jpg You can see that there is an 'L' shaped piece of plastic shielding bolted to the bellhousing and to the side of the pan to keep road debris out of the torque converter cavity, so it appears that the factory used one shield on each side of the pan to close off the opening. It wouldn't be too hard to fabricate a flat shield out of sheetmetal to cover the opening, similar to the sheetmetal or plastic shield used on the older automatic transmissions. The oil pan is part of the shielding when using the LSX stock pan, with the Autokraft pan you'll use a flat one-piece shield instead. Another thing to put on my list of things to do or to fab up for the swap.:usa2: Question on your TeckPak K77999U transmission dipstick and tube: If you happen to know, what specific factory application is that setup listed for, which car model/year? |
TeckPak K77999U transmission dipstick and tube is listed as a generic part for no specific make and model. It looks like there is plenty of room for it to fit in my 68.
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I thought I would post some of the mock up pictures.
Dipstick - had to grind a little on the bracket to clear the headers http://peripheraltech.com/gto/Picture 152-web.jpg Radiator - Top plate is from a 69 Chevelle (Not a Bolt in part) http://peripheraltech.com/gto/Picture 157-web.jpg http://peripheraltech.com/gto/Picture 162-web.jpg Problem - I don't think there is enough clearance. I will need to install my Delphi 600 box and new shaft to tell for sure. http://peripheraltech.com/gto/Picture 161-web.jpg Shot showing the AC bracket. Compressor should arrive soon. http://peripheraltech.com/gto/Picture 160-web.jpg |
Lots of little issues have slowed my project. I was unable to get transmission cooler lines installed. There is not enough clearance for a 90 degree bend of hard line at the transmission. I had to remove transmission and install 90 degree fittings at the transmission; I also had a hard time bending lines to fit in the available space. I am routing the lines like a LT1 94-96 B-body. The lines run from the transmission along the bottom of the engine and have a short piece of rubber from the front of the engine to the radiator.
Another problem is the belt listed by Kwik for their AC relocation bracket is too short. I have ordered the next longest size but I think it may be too long. I may need to change the size of some of the pulleys to get this to work. B-Man take notice, I think you are using the same parts I am. On a positive note I did reinstall the transmission/engine and measure the drive shaft. A local shop shortened my existing drive shaft for $30 (No balance). I am only intending to use the old driveshaft/rear-end until I order a new rear-end. I will probably order a Moser rear-end, although I have not fully decided. My plans are to work out the problems with swapping the engine/transmission then removing everything and do a full restoration including removing the body from the frame. The time frame for putting the car back together would probably be next winter at which point I will deal with selecting and installing a new rear-end/drive shaft. If any of you have comments or suggestions about the choice of a rear-end I am all ears. I have never had to pick a rear-end before. Among the B-body group, Denny's drive shafts were a popular choice, I assume their drive shafts would also be a good choice for an A-body. |
Rear end
The rear end I'm planning to go with is a '71 -'72 Buick/Olds A-body 8.5" corporate 10 bolt. This would be a direct bolt-in on your car as well, the rear U-joint is a little different than the one that came stock on our cars if I'm not mistaken.
These have the tapered axle bearings that are said to handle side loads better along with a true heavy-duty axle. They are 28-spline axles that are bolt-in style instead of C-clips like most GM 8.5" corporate 10-bolts. The factory posi units are fine as long as you're not drag racing the car with any kind of traction tire. These 8.5" rear ends are nearly as strong as a 12-bolt 8.875" rear and share the same pinion bearing. I'll upgrade my 8.5" rear end to a new 30-spline Eaton posi unit and new Moser axles. Part of the reason being I need to change the bolt pattern on my axles to 5 on 120mm to match up with my BMW-spec aftermarket wheels, so new axles are the easiest way to accomplish that. The stock GM intermediate pattern is 5 on 4.75" (5 on 120.65mm) so there's not a lot of difference between the two, but I want things done right. Upgrading the axles and posi unit isn't a bad idea no matter what, just more $$. This way I can beat on it and not worry as much. Spend it only once and do it right whenever you can.;) |
How much clearance should I have between the headers and the steering shaft? I only have about 3/16". I would think 1/4" would be the minimum. I would really hate to have something shift around and lock up the steering. That would make for a really bad day. :( I guess the best way to gain additional clearance would be to put a dent in the header tube with a press.
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That might be okay, I'd play that by ear.
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You have plenty of room. No need whatsoever to modify your header tube.
I have about 3/16" between my headers (H-O Racing Tri-Ys with 1-3/4" primary tubes) and the steering shaft on my '64 GTO. I tried to put the end of a 1/4" thick wooden yardstick between the shaft and the header tube and it wouldn't fit in there. Exhaust heat will not adversely affect the steering shaft, the Ditzler 9000 black acrylic enamel on mine is still doing fine after 10 years in the staging lanes and 2 years on the street. My GTO has stock rubber motor mounts and a chain to limit engine movememnt. Engine torque will make the engine move away from the steering shaft. I'll be installing a new set of Energy Suspension poly motor mounts when I drop the LS3 in my '64 Tempest, they should do a good job of limiting engine movement all by themselves. Hopefully I'll have as much clearance as you do in that spot. http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...e/DSC02668.jpg |
Project updates.
I finally got a belt to fit. The third attempt. This was a painful experience since the auto parts store in my area don't stock anything. They always say we can get it in a day, two at they most. So since I'm going to wait and then go get it when it comes in, I just order from Rockauto.com. Much cheaper (including shipping) and only a day longer, plus its waiting for me when I get home. http://peripheraltech.com/gto/belt.jpg I put a slight dent in the header just to be safe. I really don't think the dent will affect flow very much. You can also see that the stock LS3 spark plug wire hits the header. This also occurs on one spot on the other side. http://peripheraltech.com/gto/dentedheader.jpg Here I'm starting to connect the ECM wires. http://peripheraltech.com/gto/top.jpg Fender problems. I though I would just need to weld a small patch at the bottom of the fender. After grinding across a very small rust bubble and then grinding alot more after finding filler, I find that most of the metal is missing and was replaced with filler. There was no visible problems from the back of the fender. The rust and repair was hidden by the brace. The fender must also be slight bent. The alighment above the picture is fair, but the fender sticks out about 3/4-1" at the bottom. If you align the bottom of the dender, the door to fender alignment in the middle is really bad and scrapes when opening the door. http://peripheraltech.com/gto/fender.jpg And while I am looking at body problems, do all Pontiacs have this extra gap at the top of the door? http://peripheraltech.com/gto/doorgap.jpg |
Looks like things are moving right along.
The minor dent in the header tube is a non-issue as far as any reduction in flow is concerned. The door gap can be adjusted out for the most part, but these old warriors do have some pretty big gaps compared to the superior fit of the body panels on the newer cars. Just wait until you get that endura front bumper aligned, the gaps are always big on those. Could you please share the part number of the serpentine belt you found that works? Did you have to change any of the pulley sizes like you thought you might need to do? Thanks, Bart |
Belt - Gates - K061010 13/16" x 101 5/8"
No changes were made to the GM supplied parts, other than the Kwik AC bracket. Perhaps the belt listed in the Kwik sheet correct if you use both their AC and ALT brackets. |
How many pounds less will this car be when it's done? With only the aftermarket hood, bumper and battery left to install this car is almost on the upper stops. With me standing on the front frame it only goes down maybe 1/2". ( I weight 225)
This makes me think I would need custom made springs for the front. It would appear none of the standard Pontiac springs would work. I guess I could start cutting coils off the spring to get the height down. How much did the Pontiac 350-2V weight? http://peripheraltech.com/gto/spring.jpg |
I bet you are saving at least 200 pounds compared to the Pontiac engine. Maybe even 300 if it had iron heads and intake.
What upper radiator hose did you use? Did it have 1.5" opening on the radiator side and 1.25" on the engine side? Andrew |
Upper hose is Dayco 71132, 1.5" radiator, 1.25" engine.
The original engine was all steel and an AC car. EBAY pictures showed that it had a normal ride height before the engine was removed. I may have cut 400 pounds off the weight of the car. Other weight reduction items are new core support, hood, power steering box, radiator, fan shroud removal. My guess is the 4L70E is lighter than the powerglide I removed. (at least my back thought so) |
A Powerglide (did your GTO really have 2-speed Powerglide installed?) weighs a scant 100 pounds without a converter, a TH400 is about 145 pounds. The 4L70E outweighs the TH400 by about 25 pounds so no weight was saved with the trans swap.
Factory air conditioning on these cars adds about 100 to 125 pounds, so that's a big reduction right there if you're removed all of it. I see some lowering springs in your future. On my '64 GTO I went for some stock '67 Firebird V8 front springs to lower the car a couple of inches. Some stock six-cylinder springs could work, but they may not be a great performance/handling spring. The '68 Lemans and Tempest came standard with a 250-inch overhead cam six under the hood, the six weighs around 440 pounds and that's within about 20 pounds of the LS3 with the six probably being the heavier of the two. If you do order some lowering springs perhaps some that are made for a Chevelle with a smallblock would do the trick. |
I'm curious if you are still using the list of parts that you posted before, and what headers you are using. Looks like Edelbrock headers, which part number? Had you thought about running SW or Hooker headers too? Also did you relocate your alternator as you had expected?
I'm looking at 68-69 Lemans/GTO LS swap, and so am curious as to what parts are working out. |
I wanna thank you guys, FBrown, and B-man for sharing all this info. I REALLY appreciate and enjoy your documentaries. I'm going to do this with either my '71 Lemans sport or my '72 GTO. Your taking the time to post your progress here illustrates your high calibur status. Again, thank you! And I applaud you for doing things "your" way.
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The only thing I relocated was the AC compressor, I used a Sanden 508 instead of the GM unit and used relocation brackets from KWIK http://www.kwikperf.com/lsx_ac.html Other that that I used the LS2 Corvettte accessory kit from GMPP. Although I am very close to being able to fire the fire, I still have a few things to resolve. Things left to resolve: I don't have enough clearance where the transmission lines come out of the transmission. I will need to either lower the transmission about 1/2" or make a small modification to the transmission tunnel. The Pedal from Hell. The Accelerator Pedal (part of my ECM kit from Speartech) didn't come with a bracket and looks like it will require extensive fabrication to make something that will locate it correctly. 4L70E linkage problems. The 4L70E had some kind of switch assembly that mounted at the transmission linkage connection. This moves the mounting point for the shifer linkage about 2" farther out. I am using a dual-gate shifter with a modification kit from Shiftworks. This kit as is, will not work with a 4L70E transmission. The simplest solution would appear to make a new bracket that will hold the transmission cable about a 1" farther away from the transmission. Otherwise the cable binds in the lower gears "1-2-3", seams to clear Park to OD. Vintage Air vs. Stock AC. While I was considering a Vintage Air system I have found out that here is no possibility of having outside air feed through the AC ducts with their system. They seal the door in their system. I'm simply not willing to give up outside air through the vents so it looks like I have to make the factory system work somehow. I use "vent" far more often than either AC or Heat. Battery Location. It would be better to locate the battery on the passenger side. The six cylinder engines located their battery on the passenger side. However the battery tray for the six is not reproduced and finding a used one looks difficult. |
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