lexan windshield
 

Does anyone else have any other good results with front windshields beside percy's, I'm just looking for other choices. I have ran Pro glass for about 7 years now and have hated ever since new. It's like looking out a frost window,even when new. Yes I know stay with orignal glass, but this car is tank already and not going back. I'm looking molded one. Thanks, Keith

Jerry Bickel has Lexan to fit, but I went to Lowes or Home Depot (don't rember which) and bought a sheet of "No Mar", and made my own.

Keith.. I'll find out what Rich is gonna use on my 70 and let u know

thanks, Adam

LEXAN WINDOWS...
 

Hello,
Could I get a little more info on what thickness you used and how it ended up turning out for you?I am wanting to do it to a 85'Grand Prix that has all factory glass in it now.What kind of cost was the whole sheet,and how many windows did you get out of the sheet of "NoMar" plexiglass?Like a 4'x 8' sheet?What did you do just paint a black edges around the outside of it(on the inside of the lexan),and screw it in to the old channel?Thanks for any advise and help in teaching me anything I could do to make this a better turn out.
Jason:confused:

3x6 just paint black edges around the outside of it(on the inside of thelexan),and screw it in to the old channel . it was 80.00 bucks brace in the center .

Home Depot here! $89 for a 4 x 8 sheet of 1/8" thick polycarbonate. Believe it or not, it can be cut with a cut off wheel unlike plexi-glass which will melt rather than cut and clog up your wheel. I laid my original windshield on top of it, used plastic clamps to hold it steady and traced with a dark pencil. I bought a stick of aluminum 1/2" U channel to make the support brace in the center. A 4 x 8 sheet will usually only make the windshield, I used some of the remaining scraps to make wind deflectors behind my grille to keep wind from inside the engine compartment. I was able to get all of the door glass and quarter windows from a single sheet but some cars will differ. I spent a total of $270 for all the windows in my car...

Just make sure it is lexan, NOT plexiglass. Plexiglass will break when hit or too much wind pressure. I have seen a race car blow out the windshield and the air pressures knock the doors off at VMP a few years ago. The car was going 180 mph when that happened.

Polycarbonate, MarGuard, RhinoGuard...there's a bunch of different brand names out there, just make sure it's not PlexiGlass and has the "scratch resistant" surface. 1/8" is too thin for windshields, but fine for side or rear glass. 4' x 8' sheet of the next size up (which is about 3/16" thick) was just under $150 for me with enough material to make 3 windshields for the funny car (less for a full size car). When drilling mounting holes, always make them just a hair larger in diameter than the size of the fastener to allow for "movement" when the material goes through hot/cold heat cycles...this will prevent cracking. I'm also not a fan of countersunk fasteners (although they look cool) because of the cracking possibility.

I made my own. 1/8 Mar Gaurd, single 4x8 sheet did my car. Make sure you scuff the edges good before painting. Regular enamel rattle can worked best for me. I used button head philips, not countersunk, 8/32 stainless screws. ... Eric

Brian is correct. 1/8 is on the thin side of safety. And stainless steel button heads are the way to go.

Not to bebate the opinion that 1/8" is too thin when 3/16 might be better but try to break a sheet of 1/8 polycarbonate. When I did mine, the instructions printed on the sheet said to score a line with 3 or 4 strokes with a lexan and plexi-glass cuting blade then place the score line on the edge of a bench and bend to break... NOT!!! I made around 10 to 12 strokes with the blade pusing with tons of pressure, bent along the score line till the sheet was wrapped around almost 180* and it still didn't break! You could probably drop kick my 1/8" windsheild and get sprung off across the shop on your arse lol. Go with whatever you're comfortable with here...

My opinion on 1/8" Lexan/polycarbonate for a windshield not being sufficient is for two reasons:

A.) Due to it being so thin it requires bracing to keep from buckling in at speed.
B.) It's not strong enough to keep substantial debris out of the interior for the same thin reason.

It's easier to work 1/8" into a form that isn't flat without going to a heat "preformed" windshield...that's the only reason why people use it for a windshield.

Do I base this opinion on personal experience? No...but before I made a windshield myself, I consulted with several other racers with cars running 175 MPH and faster, and they all said the same thing...1/8" is too thin for a windshield.

Working the 3/16" into a curved windshield was a bit of a pain in the ass, but the results are better (and safer) than 1/8". I used #10 polished stainless steel button head fasteners with a recessed hex and nylock nuts, but any comparable size fastener will work well, just make the mounting holes a hair larger and don't run the fasteners down too tight. If you hear the Lexan making a squeaking or cracking sound as you tighten them, your holes are either not large enough or you've tightened them too far (or both), which will leave it prone to cracking.

now how do you still retain the factory trim clips? or, i guess that is a given if you are tracing the windshield, huh? an exact match of the windshield will leave room for the clips and the trim

I use a product called sikaflex that we use to seal semi trailer and throw a bead around the windshield and place it in there. Does move a bit and help seals for the water leaks around the edges.

How about Clear One

http://clearoneracing.com/

Thanks Dave, I was trying to find there site. It just don't seem be alot of choices out there. There's no way I will go back to Pro Glass. They told that Warren Johnson use there product, maybe that's why he don't win anymore races. He probly can't see the tree thru there crapy product. I do think I might look into the sheets that all have been talking about. Anything to save a buck.

I need some tips on restoring fogged up (sunburnt, sandblasted) window
Its beyond using a simple polish
Is it like plastic headlights? 600grit, 1000grit, polish?

I did use headlight polishing kit on this and it was too fine, I went to a regular buffing compound help take it off. It worked real good on all of them but, the front windshield. Then I got mad it because I could see parts of the protective coating and it was right in my vision. When I was running the car and your at the line and shaking and thumping and your looking thru it makes you dizzy. So I did something stupid and tried buffing the inside and it has a coating too, so now feels like I looking out a tunnel. LoL

Makes you dizzy and It's like looking through a tunnel?
Sounds OK to me, what could go wrong? LOL

badgto, I have clearone 1/8" windshields in both Charlies 96 bird and in my Grand Am. He said when we were at pinks in St.Louis last year the windshield did come in a little, but not bad. The one in my GA doesn't move at all. Charlie bought a formed one for his car, I just bought a straight sheet for mine. Did the trimming with a jig saw with a fine tooth blade.

I dont know if you guys have them near you but I use a wholesaler called curbell plastics.

Just look in the yellow pages under plastics and you usually can buy 4 X 8 sheets pretty reasoanble.

I used to use a product called PETG for ATV plastic hoods I made with vac forming it was clear and colored very cool stuff. Not sure if it would be suitable for a windshield, Maybe a side glass though.

On my race car I made the side lexan removable so I can go for a cruise with no glass in the car.
It was very simple and since my car is turbo'd and I run on pump gas its easy to drive on the street.
Its sucked before I had the removable glass.

While we are on the topic..... What kind of heat did anyone apply when trying to make a curved piece? Did you just place it over the glass you are trying to emulate and slowly heat it up or did you use a different method?

^^^ Temps
 

73 We dry our poly at 250 degrees to pull any moisture out of it pryor to it being extruded

It dumps in the equipment at 350 and goes as high as 490 , you need around 300 to to form it . good luck .

Polycarbonate/Lexan Window Install...
 

Brian,
Hey I got a sheet of polycarbonate 4'x8' x 1/4"thick from a local company in Indianapolis,In.(Meyer Plastics)no shipping charges we went and picked it up, it is called "PALSUN" like you said there are many names to this stuff,this kind has a scratch resistant on one side.I have a box of 100 count Stainless Steel button head Torks #20 that are 6-32x3/4" from Camcar out of Decorah,IA.I was wanting to know if I should use a small washer/and lock washer/and a polylock nut?The polylock nut will have a washer and lock washer as well on the inside.I plan on like you suggested to drill the holes a tiny bit larger for body flex/climate/temp. changes?Do you think this is over kill or just doing it right the first time and trying not to have it crack once its all tightened down?Now when you heated/molded your 3/16" how exactly did you accomplish this?I read in the thread that to use "clamps,I have four spring loaded ones but I think I need about 4 more??? to get the exact shape and form of the old window's?People may give you some sh!t but you have a great deal of knowledge if others will listen!! Now I will be making my own door window brackets to hold the Lexan/polycarbonate I think that 1/4" steel rod bent and welded to the form of the doors will be fine,just need to call S&W to get the right little brackets to connect the steel to the doors.What do you recommend for the front and rear windows to use as a sealant?? I was thinking of using 100% silicon,that dries firm but will flex with the chassis?Any suggestions would be greatly appreciate on my part,as this is the first time I have done anything of this level...;)
Kind Regards,
Jason


[QUOTE=Brian Baker;3817528]My opinion on 1/8" Lexan/polycarbonate for a windshield not being sufficient is for two reasons:
Working the 3/16" into a curved windshield was a bit of a pain in the ass, but the results are better (and safer) than 1/8". I used #10 polished stainless steel button head fasteners with a recessed hex and nylock nuts.

You copied my quote and made it look like I said something I didn't (LOL). People use the 1/8" stuff because it's easier to work with mostly (reread my whole post on that).

For my funny car, I used Nylock nuts with flat washers on the backside of the fiberglass to mount the windshield (see previous post as well for size and type screws). You may not need flat washers for a steel body, but they won't hurt. I didn't apply any heat to mine, I simply cut it very carefully and started in the middle of the roof and the doghouse, working my way outward to the A-pillars and down to the cowl last. Like anything else, measure twice and cut/drill once. Being it was the first time I tried this myself I was pleased with the results. I didn't run a sealer on mine, just painted the backside about 1" in from the edges gloss black to match the treatment painted on the body. Any bath-tub type caulk/sealer should work fine...you want something that is going to remain pliable after it cures so that it doesn't crack.

Thank God No Heat..
 

Brian,
Great looks like I'm in great shape,with the math and placement of each I can get all the windows done with this one sheet!! Can't afford a F**ck up here.Thanks for all your help and suggestions,as It will work !!!! Sharing is a slow process at some points in life....
jts
PS. I will see ya this year at Norwalk....Thanks man

Is it worth it.
 

How much weight can you save by replacing all the glass on a 2nd gen firebird anybody know.

I was going to do 3 of the 5 windows on my 73 LeMans. (rear glass and rear side glass). That was going to save me 20 lbs. The rear glass isnt as heavy as I thought it would be. However, add in the door and the front glass (to cover your question of ALL glass) my educated guess says its would be at least another 25-30lbs. My glass is bigger than a F body so not sure how helpful this is but it will give you an idea.

According to the clear 1 site, approximately 90lbs for the 2nd gen F-body, here is the link.


http://clearoneracing.com/index.php?...th=12_13_17_37

Thanks Johnny .

Becareful on what you buy. I went to a plastic shop here in town because I was in a hurry and wanted to save some money. The first windshield I put in the 96 bird was terrible. The optics was so bad I just couldn't use it. Every thing was deformed. Must have been the angle. When I replaced it with a clearone windshield, it was ok. My buddy cut the old piece down for side windows for his car, still wouldn't do for me. That was a waisted 80.00 for me. I've had a clearone windshield in my car for 3 years now, and I'd do it again.

I bought the blemish windows from percy,s speedglass for my 68 bird 80% DISCOUNT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!.
there windows have beter clearer vision then normal windows!!!..