tools needed for rear wheel bearing install?
 

I just ordered a pair of rear wheel bearings and the puller rings from Clark's Corvair parts and I plan on tackling this project this weekend. I have read the tempest shop manual and it lists a special tool for removing the u-joint flange from the axle. I know that this tool probably isn't available any more so what can I use to remove the flanges? Any tips/hints on this process?

Andy, Any decent 2 point puller like this one http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...0714&ppt=C0374 will work fine. Get good grade 8 bolts, washers & nuts. Remove the yoke retaining bolt & washer from the center of the axle. Bolt the puller to opposite corners of the U joint yoke & tighten down the center screw into the end of the axle. Spray penetrant all over the area where the axle goes into the yoke. Tighten down the puller as tight as you can get it. Sometimes it will pop & come loose. Usually you have to use a hammer to tap/beat on the sides of the yoke & on the end of the puller center screw. Keep tightening the puller & beating on it till it comes off. Use a wire brush/ grinder wire wheel to clean the splines on the axle & yoke. Slather anti sieze all over the splines before reassembling for ease of future removal. Have fun!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Do you have the removal tools for changing the bearing on the axle??? 20 ton press, etc, etc??? If not, you will have to take it to a machine shop to get the gearing pressed on & off. Pay close attention to the bearing orientation on the axle, puller ring position, etc, etc.

Keith, thank you sir for the information. :D I believe I have a puller like the one you have pictured, but I need to get some grade 8 bolts for threading into the flange. I do not have a press unfortunately. I will have to take it to a shop to have it done. I believe the bearings on the car have been changed once before by a previous owner. I think it has the ones made by the Green Bearing Co. on it. I will post up some pictures of the progress tomorrow. My goal is to have it on the road by New Years!

Cool! Forgot to add, the bolts should be 5/16" dia. Did you read my wheel bearing thread?? The Green bearing is on the bottom of the list! Will not pivot with the suspension movement. Good luck with the upgrades!

I used a harmonic balancer puller with grade 8 bolts to hold it to the yoke nice and tight. Then I heat it up with my torch and get it red hot. Its the only way I have been able to ge the yoke off the axle on my Tempest with the least amount of resistance. Hopefully those tools from Clarks will help you if you dont have a torch. When I heat up my yoke, I have a friend keep turning it as I apply the heat. A breaker bar on your half inch drive rachet wrench helps too when you are using the puller!

Wow- I didn't think there was another swing axle in north Georgia!
I used an old steering wheel puller to remove the yokes, worked fine. I installed the bearings on the axles with a 20 ton press and just barely made it- if I ever do this again I'll take it to a machine shop.
I also bought Clark's press tool, PM me if you need it.

Sure did. The bearings I got from Clarks have the Hyatt # stamped in them and they swivel. I bet the ride quality is really going to improve when I get these on there. My dad went to O'Rielly's this morning and picked up that tool....for $15 bucks!:D I think I will have to get the smaller bolts like you mentioned though. I believe the ones that came with the tool are 3/8"-16. I guess I will need a pair of 5/16"-18 bolts?

We've had the car since 2006 and it has been an ongoing project. Where in North Ga are you located? I'm in Elberton.

I've got an air compressor with a 1/2" impact I can use on the puller. And if that doesn't work, I've got a 3/4" drive ratchet set that I can use. I'll get it off one way or another. ;) I'll spray the flanges down good with PB blaster and let them sit for a few minutes before I start.

Looks like you have everything you need. Now the fun begins. Like I said, clean the splines real good & reassemble with a lot of antisieze. I carry a spare axle with bearing in my trunk. Am allways out on the road somewhere. I carry a puller with bolts in my trunk tool box & can change out an axle on the side of the road if needed. Have not had to do that yet but, can if need to. Cheap insurance!! I had one axle I was pulling out. Yoke was so tight I had to hold the yoke with a 24" pipe wrench so I could tighten the puller screw enough to get it loose. When it finally popped loose, I thought I had been shot!!!

I pulled the axles on my 62 several times, and never needed a puller for the U joint flange. I took the bolt out and with a couple of gentle taps with a hammer they came right off.
Importsmasher

67SS I'm in Canton. Have fun with the bearings.

Oh, okay. I have a few friends in that area. You should join our local website, www.musclecar-evolution.com. When I get the axles out I may contact you about the press tool. Most of the members are from the Atlanta/North East Georgia area. All kinds of cars on the site. Anything from a 69 Pro Street Hemi 'Cuda to a 1200+hp twin turbo C5 vette. :D

I got rained out today but I did go parts shopping....for another car of mine. I got lucky and got a set of ebony leather trans am seats that are in perfect condition for my LS1 Camaro for 110 bucks.

I live in the rust-belt of the northeast. I have never come across a yoke that didn't need heat and a lot of force to get it off. Consider yourself very lucky.

Will do. Have you used the locking rings that Clark's offers? http://www.corvair.com/user-cgi/search.cgi?part=C5442 They are supposed to help keep the bearing on the axle shaft. I thought it would be a good safety item to add to the car.

I replace the rings with new ones each time. I believe the old ring is to be used to help press the new bearing on. Check your service manual.

correct, but the rings mentioned in the prior post are different than the puller rings. they are a locking type ring which goes on the differential side of the bearing. They install where the deflector would normally go.

I have never had an issue with the bearing staying on the axle. I dont see where the Clarks locking ring would hurt anything.

I got the axles out yesterday. Took longer to round the tools up than to get them out. The puller made the job easy, but the air compressor and 1/2" impact made it fast, lol. I'm going to carry them to work tomorrow to clean them up in our blasting cabinet before I remove the old bearings. The bearings couldn't be turned in for cores anyway.

Glad it went smooth for you. I will have to try the impact wrench next time before I break out the torch but I doubt I will have the same luck you did.

Once I got the yokes off the first time, have not had any more issues on removing again. Anti-sieze is great stuff. On the splines only, keep it off of the retaining bolt threads.

I got the old bearings off and got the new ones on over the past few days. I ordered the removal/installation tool from Clarks Corvair parts and it worked well. Didn't have to use a press to remove or install them. Got axles reinstalled in the car today. It was part of mom's Christmas, so I was happy to do it. I also found a source for rear shocks. My dad ordered them from O'Reilly Auto parts earlier this week. They are made by Rare Parts, and they were a little over $50 each. Part number is 51328. Maybe I'll have it back together for New Years!:D

Well, I got the shocks on the car, fixed a few other minor things and drove it today for the first time in several years!!! I'll need to adjust the brakes on it as it is pulling to one side when I stop and get the turn signals fixed which should not be a big deal.

One thing I did notice is that as soon as I pulled out of the drive way and got it to about 10-15 mph it shifted into drive. It didn't have any pick up to it at all. After a 1/4 mile or so I was only running 30 something mph. I pulled into the local church parking lot turned around and put it in low before starting on the road again. This time I let the rpms come up and waited until about 35-40 mph to shift into drive and it picked up speed fine. I do not have the passing gear cable hooked up at the moment, but it seems like it would have some pick up to it without downshifting. I remember the last time I drove the car it would sound like it was almost going to blow up before it would shift into drive. Is there a way to adjust the modulator valve on the trans to raise the shift point?

If the cable is not hooked up & adjusted correctly, it will up shift at to low of a speed. All the trans shift adjustment procedures are in the manual. Do you have a factory svc manual?

Sure do. I'll take a look at it.

Keith,
What else would make it shift into drive at low speeds?
Gary

T/V & or cable out of adjustment, possibly governor.