Suspension
 

www.hrpartsandstuff.com

Has Anybody tryed this stuff? I need to get my low 10 sec car to go straight.

I was going to use their rear anti roll bar, did research and spoke to people that run it. Everything I found was positive.

I run a Ford 9" with a backbrace and their axle tube attachment would not work for me. Wasn't worth paying that much and still needing to fabricate custom mounts.

check out http://www.spohn.net/#1.

Hey Ron i just put a spohn in my car and im finally going to test it out tomorrow.

I installed a hrpartsandstuff.com anti roll bar in my car 6-7 years ago. Worked great. I run radial slicks and the car goes straight as an arrow. It runs high 1.30s 60'


Tom Syron

Keep me updated, I've had a 139-141 60'

I have the HRparts rear AS bar on mine. Nice add to the car, and a good quality part. The car pretty much drives itself.

What rear control arms do you have now? Are you preloading the uppers?

Car & driver weighs about 3000#. It has a set of south side bars with air bags.
I bought the car last year with a 400 engine running 11.40's

I am very impressed with how well your cars leaves.
So the next time your at the track and see a pair of
13 size boots sticking out from undreneath the back
of your car it's just me admirering your suspenstion. LOL

GT.

Thanks! I'm getting used to visitors at the track. It's mostly people coming over to sure that there is not a BB Chevy under the hood!:)

Is the car driving to one side off the line, or is it the twist at launch you are trying to correct? Do yo have the chassis braces that connect the upper and lower control arm mounting points at the frame?

Not much seat time yet, 10 passes. Had to abort 1 run 100' out heading for the wall, right lane. Some twist at launch also. No chassis braces. Previous owner fabbed his own "anti roll bar".

This is the car in question, not the black 1

Ron i got out yesterday the car went straight but when it shifted to 2nd the tire broke loose.

60' ?

Being a bit of an unknown car, I would start by taking everything apart in the rear. Make sure that the frame is sound and none of the control arm mounting points are cracked and deflecting. Thank make sure that the lower control arms are the same length. Is there any adjustability with the sway bar right now? Maybee eliminate it all together just to see what happens.
I would also measure the circumference of the rear tires. You never know.

Brian - Can you explain how you preloaded your uppers, i.e., how much?

How many passes did you make. Just the one?

There could be a few things that cause that. Maybe the track had something on it where you shifted, etc.

How'd the car 60', better than previous? Do you have adjustable rear shocks?

Well, the reason I asked about preloading the uppers is that some people still try that as a tool to get the car to leave straignt or not twist up. It may help a little, but all it really does is shift the rear end over in the chassis with a triangulated four link like we have. Shortening up the RH upper control arm really just puts everything in a bind if you have stock or urethane bushings. My uppers and lowers have rod ends front and back (and shperical bearings in the housing) so shortening the RH upper does nothing but shft the rear end over. No preload whatsoever. That is the job of the rear anti sway bar.
I do run at least one full turn of preload with the AS bar though. Nothing else.

Brian - I can't say enough nice things about your car, too. Very impressive.

Just be careful and don't back out over blueghoast when they call your class to the lanes....

K

Here are some pics of the bar. I also was told it has a pair of moroso rear racing springs. 29.5 x 10.5 tires. Again, this is how I bought the car but with my engine.
Car went straight with the 400 running 11.40's.
Footbraking it seems to leave straight, but the t-brake is a white nuckle ride.
But then it's my 1st t-brake car.

I don't want to get hurt in this monster or hurt anyone else.

I can't tell in the pics if the lower control arms are boxed or not.

You may want to look at changing out the control arms as the next step.

Thanks Keith! May bee I need to install a back up alarm on th car. My buddies tell me that GTO stands for "Garbage Truck with Overdrive". The B/U alarm would fit nicely.:)

The LCAs are South side machine bars. They are rectangular box tubing, but I wonder about the relocation brackets being equal and square to one another. The relocation is probably a good thing, but everything is suspect at this point.

How old are the tires? The one time that I tried a 28x10.5 slick on my car it was ALL OVER the place. Your rear wheel looks narrow. I think that that was most of my problem. The 10.5 tire with an 8.5 wheel was pretty squirrely for sure. This was a stiff wall tire with tubes and it was still a dangerous mess. The 275/60 DOT radial cured all of that but they still prefer a 10" wheel to get a good footprint.

Wheels are 15x10 but the tires & tubes could be 5+ years old.
I installed a set of SSM bars on my 65 years ago to set pinion angle. Ya grind on each bracket till you get the angle you want. Hit & miss at making them equal. I think it was "Screamin Chief" who said they don't work below 11.00??

I'm considering buying the whole kit from HRparts. U&L arms and the bar.

Always dreamed of my 65 pulling the wheels, but changed direction.
Awesome & not light either.

Looking waaaaay to serious in the photo of the 65! Bet you just lost the round previously by .0005 and was taking a T&T pass to relax. :bounce: :bolt:

The HR stuff is good quality. The urethane still allows some deflection though. Take a look at this http://trzmotorsports.com/wordpress/...sion-1968-1972
These control arms and the bolt on HRParts rear AS bar work well together.

As far as the relocated IC via SSM bars or the Dick Miller no-hop setup that I used to run, what I have found is that somewhere imbewteen stock location and the drastically altered location seems to be the happy place for my car. Only the specific chassis and ride hieight will determine what setup you need. It's a good idea to plot your IC and see just what you have. There is no "magic" IC distance and height to shoot for. Once you are in the ball park and can get the car to seperate, you can tune with shocks to tighten things up/slow things down if needed. I'm around 40" out and 8.5" up right now.
I ended up extending my lower control arm brackets at the rear end so that the control arms didn't point downhill from back to front. The first hole is 1" lower than stock, and the bottom hole is 3/4" below that. I'm in the bottom hole right now and the car finally seperates enough to where I need to start slowing it down with shock extension adjustment. It's all just trial and error.

Great info. Your car leaves perfect if there is such a thing.
I noticed that your car does every thing right moves forward
while seperarting and transfering, all at the same time.
No wasted movement at all. I didn't know they had housing
bearings like that either. Thanks again good info.

GT.

Pretty sure that was when I won Megabucks in '03. Bret Kepner took that pic.

I bought the whole kit HR-1909. with Delrin bushings. Set pinion angle at 3 degrees.
Went to the track ready to hang on and Walla, it went straight arrow.
Money well spent.

Good deal!:)