Moroso trick spring question please
 

OK, I see 2 listings for my 67 GTO 47140,S AND 47150 all comes down to weight of front of my 67, so should i go with 47140 front weight 1690 to 1750 or go with 47150,s with 1550to1640 front end weight?????

I think you should get some scales and weigh it to know for sure. You've made enough changes on the car that I doubt you can arbitrarily say what it weighs until you scale it.

ok, so how is it done??? scales something i can rent??? were at?? One under each tire wheel assembly up front???

I have a used set of 47170s you are welcome to try out.

Go to your local truck stop, Loves e.g.s and tell them you want to scale the car.

Roll up to the scale and put the front tires on the scale, get them to record it. then do both axles, then do the rear axle. They will print out the weight numbers.

I assume morosos numbers are for weight with driver in the car.

Later

Spend a little extra money and get the santhuff springs!... They are a much better spring and u will not have to cut them to get the ride height right, Just measure your springs now at ride height and weigh the front and call Ron at santhuff.

When you go to a truck scale, make sure to split the axles. Put the front wheels on the front section of the scale and the rear wheels on the rear (or middle) section of the scale. That way the truck scale will give you a front end and a rear end weight.

When I do the front end, I'm going with the santhuff springs. Do a search, I planned this all out in one of my threads. It's my next upgrade.

Guess what my '67 weighs? Give up?

2050 lbs front
1520 lbs rear

Those Moroso springs ain't gonna cut it.

chiphead both cars should be real close, right??????? 2050 up front

Hard to say.

I'm all steel up front with iron heads, big battery, 7 quart pan, deep sump tranny, large radiator and tranny cooler, PS/Alt, drum brakes, return style fuel system. Interior and trunk are pretty bare except for rear firewall. I may be front heavy compared to you. The weights I listed above are NOT with me in it.

The only way to know is to weigh it.

I called Moroso for a reccommendation years ago. They flat out told me "we don't have anything for your car" because it is so heavy. I thought they were full of crap, so I ordered the heaviest springs they listed. Three weeks after install they were trash! Bowed and collapsed!!

Plase call Santhuff. These guys are trying to steer you in the right direction. Mine is over 2100 FE weight, and they sold me 18" x 225lb. springs. With a stock block you should be good with no spacer underneath. Scale the car and you will know for sure. It only takes a few minutes.

My 65 scaled about the same 2000/1500 give or take. Iron heads, Al intake/rad/headers...no real lightweight stuff at all. Yours should be around 2000 on the front end as well.

Really know nothing about scaling in a front end on a car. I know of nobody who owns a set, right now asking alot of questions.

If you were closer I could help you out with scaling. From past experience I would go with a lighter rating spring, chances are it will still need a coil removed to get correct ride height. They will settle after some cycle time. As mentioned if you have access to truck scales roll front on to get a data point of what the nose weighs.

Rich , all u need to do is prop the front on a truck scale somewhere with you in it, then call ron at santhuff after u measure where the springs are now at ride height, then if you want to drop it any he will get you the right rate that will allow the car to drop without having to cut anything! I ordered the 200 rate ones for my bird 1900 on the front, and it dropped my car a good inch, then i just installed taller front tires to keep the header clearance good enough to still drive on the street. this is before and after with the same taller front tires, the pic with nose in air is with the old moroso 270 rate ones with a half coil cut even, second pic is 200 santhuff. the moroso ones were when the car had another 150 lbs on the nose with the blower etc, so they were way too stiff now for my car and any good transfer, plus i wanted to drop it to get more travel. Mission accomplished! Before with old springs and small 26" tires the fender lip was 27 1/4. now with different springs and the taller tires its 27, I have like 5.25 " of travel now compared to only 3.75 before.

somewhere is the problem right now, Been thru yellow pages, nothing local. Trying to find someone into circle track racing right now.

Any farm elevators in your part of the country. Every farm town here in the Midwest has one and most have digital scales open 24 hours. I've weighed all my vehicles across them at one time or another.

Yep gain elevators are everywhere around here.
Also a lot of truck stops have scales as well (at least in IA & IL they do)

Rich stop looking for someone that scales cars, and just go to a truckstop or a recycler will have a scale too.

Our truck stop been gone for about a yr. now. Believe me you don,t want to see our recycling center!! Smell of beer and dead rats plus a dump to say the least. Thats the truth of it!!

Yeah, scrap yards have some of the scariest human mutants I've ever seen. And the lot is a minefield of shred, band steel, angle iron and dead machinery that looks like the WWI battle of chateau Thierry.

Ran a ad for renting a set of Proform scales, ill wait and see what happens for giggles

I don't understand why this is such a issue Rich, and why would u even beother to try and scale it that way? Its not like you are a 4 second car that needs to know where every last damn ounce goes or needs to be. You Can't tell me there isn't a place close to you that has a scale for grain etc. Geez just use 2000 as a front weight and call it good! my god

If it were me, i'd go with the 47140's and trim a coil to get the ride height you want, which is most likely about an 1 1/2'' lower than you are now... that will help you take advantge of what the spring will do for you... If you dont gain some total travel out of this deal, its not gonna help much... make sure the front A-arms move very freely, before you install the springs... loose is good, in this case, anyway... Most likely, either spring will do the job...Ride height, dont forget to measure where you are now, before you disassemble....

I'm just a little confused as why you are worried about changing front springs on a car that run 13's. There are many on this board that run low tens with all the factory stuff. Spend your money on making more power first.

Grain????? shoot we make steel here , lol, sorry wrong part of the country. As for why i am changing springs, no lift on my car at all, very stiff, looking to drop my 60er,s a little. Not going to change anything(motor wise) untill get car where i want it to be.

Does this english mean something different in West Virginia. Save your money and use it to make more power first. Then dial your chassis in to go faster. You build a house after the foundation has been put down, it is no different than making a car faster. The engine is the foundation, and your foundation isn't making enough power yet. Your MPH shows this. My car is 2 seconds faster than yours using the factory springs and suspension both front and rear. Changing the front springs is not going to make your car any quicker. It will make your wallet lighter, and just frustrate you even more.

I would have to agree with you on this... my bird does 1.49 60fts with 100% stock front end(springs included)... Maybe his car sits too high, taking up much of his travel... but, i think alot of his problem is in the traction/track/driving dept. Its amazing how that can greatly affect the E.T. at the end of the track...

Tin Indian yep my Englay same as yours, you like to spend money, Ill go faster the old way and earn it one tenth at a time. Anybody can throw a big dollar motor together and brag how fast it is, like nitrios big deal??? I love to watch those stockers make them look dollar machine well look slooooooow! Oh ya, again i have Poly bushings everyplace causing some issue,s again ill correct this all first.

No high dollar stuff in my motor. I even run factory cast rods. crank and use a flat tappet hydraulic cam. You could probably put the same combo together for about $3000 bucks, oil pan to carb. No nitrous, its not allowed in the NMCA class I run. I don't spend a lot of money, in fact I told you to save your money and put it into making more power. You ask questions on this board to save money, yet take no ones advise who actually have been there done that. Your MPH shows you are not making the power you think you are, the physics do not lie. Try listening and taking some of our advise, or just be happy running in the 13's.
As for the stock eliminator cars you watch. Do some research before you post. They have mad money in their combinations to be competitive.

Ive listened to everyone,s advice i believe, but i will make sure no fly by nite specialist try,s to talk me into something. I keep hearing my combo should go 12.80,s but im going 13.20,s so what advice do i get,?? switch cam or another convertor, shoot mine works just fine. I am switching a couple things around, new plug wire,s, trying a stock intake over my RPM. Also switching axles for safety sake and trying to loosen up the front end a tad. Distributor sent out recalculated no improvemant. I am hearing bigger tube headers, as soon as my front end is completed it will be the last change or now. My biggest decision will be head work next. Stay tuned to see whats next!!

x2... I have no high dollar stuff , either... 1960 Forged rods, TRW's(circa 1985), solid cam, 30+ year old Holley intake, qjet, ATI Converter...
Rich, he's right about pretty much everything...Im just saying that your MPH is telling the story... 98mph is showing that the horsepower is way low... your stuff should be making somewhere around 350-370hp...but for some reason, its not doing it... I dont think its a matter of changing parts , to get it... its gotta be in the tuning, or assembly, or condition of the parts that you have. And, yes, the NHRA Stockers , that run extremely well, have more money in their engines, than i do in my whole car... i guarantee that... I would love to know where your HP is hiding... its in there, somewhere....

Ok, silly question here. Are you having traction issues? May bee I missed it earlier in the thread.

X3. Sounds like he's chasing the wrong tail. I've run mid 10's with 1.42 60's on stock suspension with nothing more than trick springs and cheap shocks.
MPH tells the story to run in the 12.80's, you need to be around 102-103 mph is my guess to hit that E.T.
MY bone stock 70 GTO (which is nothing more than a show car) runs 98.2 mph in the qtr with its original 400. Figure out the mph first then mess with the other stuff.

Believe me guys i know and wish i can get it to 102or3 mph. I am told by alot of racers a hydralic cam slows you down like big time but to be truthfull i like the low maintanance issue. Now im not lazy but i love starting the car driving it on the trailer take it off and if i had to drive it home. My Grower cam 60916 with 1.5 rockers MAY be the issue here. Also i personally fill my car shoots straight out without spinning as far as i can tell. I have adj. upper arms in back and boxed lowers with air bags no air. Lobe separation is 112 degree,s.
I really want to change my headers after my new axles come in and new 90/10 shocks are on the car. Im open for ideas and thoughts and read them all. Rich

You need to find different people to listen to!! We've been over 130mph in the 1/4 with a flat tappet hyd cam. Ya they sure are slow, lol.

I don't know anything about how your car is set up, but I ran in the low 13's (about 105 mph) with pretty stock stuff. I ran in the high 12's (about 108 mph) with cast iron manifolds, a hydraulic cam (744) and 3.90 gears. All of the suspension was stock except the shocks. I ran 70/30's or 45/55's on the front, and 50/50's on the rear. I still have the original factory springs in the car to this day. If everything else in your car is setup right (gears, fuel system, etc.), then my guess would be that your cam didn't get installed at 108 (advanced 4 degrees)

Mr. Taylor, bare with me ok, i installed cam stright up with a cloyles timing set , can you help with a brief explanation on how its done??? Maybe ill go to Race section and ask for help with that.

You can never be sure how the cam is oriented unless you actually degree it. Some are right on, and some are way off. It's harder to degree it with the engine assembled, but it is possible. It takes a few special tools. If you've never done it before then it would be best to have someone do it who has some experience at it.

Hydraulic cams work just fine... the cam that's in my '62 , is an Ultradyne, around .497/.507 lift... 230/240ish duration...it ran over 120 in my brother's GTO, with Iron Dport heads... and we didnt degree it... its in the 62 ,now, with stock #48's, and its not been degreed, either... not saying that it wouldnt help... Yours could be off a tooth(on the chain), possibly.... I know that i have a 455 in the 62, but im carrying almost 500 more pounds , than your car, and it runs 108-109 in Spring and fall...i managed 107 at Norwalk 2012... It has trws, 3 tube headers, unported heads, stock rockers and pushrods, cloyes chain, 3.90 gears, 28.5x9'' slicks, shift at 5300...it was a throw together, spare parts deal... it shouldnt run as good as it does... It 60fts 1.57-1.58 in good air...1.62 in really bad air... First two things i'd check(assuming that total timing is set around 36* : 1) THrottle open all the way 2)Cam timing(could possibly be off a tooth, or just several * off, due to stack up, from crank keyway to gear key to cam key to cam gear(its worth checking, i know this 1st hand)... and if all that checks out, I'd be trying to get on a GOOD track, work on 60fts and maybe put some richer rods in the secondaries... Is there a choke on this carb? Are you sure its not causing some sort of problem? Or is there some other restriction(air)? I believe you should be in the 1.7-1.8 60ft range, to run 13.20s(remember, i saw that pass, and you spun way out in low gear)... I believe you have the torque to get there, but for some reason, you are losing HP, or not able to take advantage of the HP that you have, on further down the track... thus, the missing 3-4mph...

Crower cams are known to be way off!, I would degree it to find out where its at.

ok, Ive read enough of this stuff LOL, Really thanks guys, i will be out before i know it, Thanks for all the advice.