Tips on getting the wrinkles/slack out?
 

I'm struggling with my new seatcovers. They look ok but I want them to look as they should look to justify the cost and labor of replacing them.
The foam is actually in great shape but I'm wondering if it has compressed over the years to allow too much 'slack' in the covering to get that tight, 'fits like a glove' effect.
Any tips?

When I replaced the covers on my trans am I didn’t like the way they fit either. I ended up putting a layer of memory foam over the seat foam then put the covers on. It not only made the seats look good but made them way more comfortable. Everyone noticed as soon as they sat in the car. I used foam that was made for a mattress cover.

Where do you get that bsblguy? Is that the name it's sold under, Memory Foam?
That sounds exactly like what my instinct was telling me. I used to have a large roll of foam and I've looked everywhere for it. I guess I threw it away.

I don’t remember for sure where I got it. May have been bed, bath and beyond. It was just a pad to go over a mattress.

Thanks for the tip, I'll shop around for some this weekend and give it a try.

Did you try steaming the seats to get rid of the wrinkles?:)

I don't have a practical way to steam them. Is that supposed to actually shrink them or soften them? Unless these things will shrink...and I'm doubtful of that...Unless these things will actually shrink I don't see how it's going to help.

Greg,

I had the same problem with my 69 Bird seats. I took them back off and consulted a professional. I used new seat foam but he added more to the seat. It really tightened them up and they look great.

x2. One should always use new seat foam when possible with new seat covers. If it is not available, go to your nearest fabric store, (your wife knows where to go) and get a 1/2" thick roll of foam. (preferably on the denser side) and a can of spray glue. Cut and glue pieces to cover the surfaces that you will sit on and rest your back. Make sure to leave the troughs exposed to allow for the hog ringing of the wire pockets. Good luck with your seats!

My wife stopped by Hobby Lobby today and got me a big chunk of foam. It's not memory foam but I think it will do the trick. It's about 4" thick and 2'x2' square.
I was going to cut and shape as needed in the slack areas only but I may pick up a roll of thinner to cover the entire seat instead.
My original foam is in great condition but I'm sure it's compressed over the years...It's just weird how well the original covers still fit unless they shrank over the years.
In fact, I considered just repairing the two small splits in them and just dyeing.

http://ultimategto.com/1968/68h_00268_2.jpg

This is exactly why I didn't get new foam. I really think I would have had to add additional foam to them too...and with the original not deteriorating at all, I couldn't see adding them to the already considerable expense of the covers and interior panels.

I tried my own hand at this and it is not easy. I think I am going to have a pro finish it up. One looks decent and one... not so much. Oddly enough the more decent of the 2 still has factory foam (passenger seat) and the driver has new foam.

I like the memory foam, but I'd rather do rust repair and/or body work again than do any more hog ringing.

It's not the easiest thing in the world but this is not the first time I've done it. The big difference is that in the past, I've installed used covers in good condition. They always fit like a glove. This is my first time with brand new covers.
Too bad they won't shrink fit with a heat gun...lol

Are you compressing the seats before hogging the the covers?
New foam and a fat a$$ have always made getting the covers tight an easy task ;)

I can compress the foam and pull the covers so tight that the listing has gone beyond the hog-ring attaching points by an inch or more and there is still slack. By the way, the slack is ALL limited to the outer pad areas. The areas that Legendary calls the collar area.
I sliced a piece of the foam my wife brought me today and test fitted it. I think I'm going to be able to get them to an acceptable fit with a little more tweaking.

Well, not perfect but better than it was...so, that means it matches the rest of my car perfectly!
Obviously, they'll have to be partially broken down to dye the backs and bottom trim and that's when I'll tighten up the loose edges here and there but overall, I'm happy with it. Some of the lumps and bumps I hope will smooth out over time with use and temp changes.
Now, on to the other one.
Gonna dye the rear seat bottom and back as there are no rips at all in them. Already have the new door panels in the box.

http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...t/IMG_0226.jpg

http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...t/IMG_0225.jpg

http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...t/IMG_0227.jpg

Seat looks very presentable. :)

Yeah, especially considering what I'll mostly be presenting to it. :eek:

Thing is, the slack comes in from the underside, the spring side, because the foam sinks around the springs. Also, I believe the OE covers are heated into a certain shape, after they were sewn. If you look at the covers you can see the 'arch' in them.

One thing you should consider too is adding foam to the underside, and not the top where the cover lays. That way the shape doesn't change. The underlayment is key too.

.

That's an interesting thought. I may try that on the passenger side...If I can get the foam of without destroying it. Otherwise, I'll do it just like this one. Like I said, not perfect but it's looking pretty good to me right now.

Greg, I should've been more clear above, my found was installed under the seat bun to firm it up.

Joe

Ok, I was assuming you did it like sprintbird in post #9. I have the passenger side ready to be covered now so I may try putting the foam on the underside.
I do not think I'm going to tear the finished one apart though...unless the pass side comes out WAY better...Then, I might be willing to do that one over again.
In my opinion the biggest flaw in the one I did is the vertical line right inside the collar on the seat back. One of the lines is sunk in way too low in one spot but those are the first hog rings to go in and I'd have to pull almost ALL of them out to redo/remove that one staple.

An electric carving knife is perfect for trimming foam. And you should always make sure the burlap underlayment is good before putting a cover on. (Or at least that's what I do, makes a difference)

Maybe when I go to do my seats I will do an refresh thread.

.

Yeah, I know about the carving knife but I don't have one. The closest thing I have is a big bread knife and that's what I use. Not nearly as easy but it has the same serrated edge. Don't have any burlap either but I know it should be changed.

All this is EXACTLY why I have always left this part of a restoration to one of my best friends. He is 61 years old now and has been doing this since he was 14. One of the best in the country, and he comes to my shop and what he can't do here is picks up and does at his shop and then brings back. And I usually sway out parts for his labor. Just can't beat that!

I actually enjoy doing this kind of stuff...It's just a learning curve. Only done it a couple of times before and with used stuff...which of course, fit like a glove. This just takes a little more time to get right with the brand new.

What seat covers did you buy?

Legendary.

Hey Greg, Steaming the seats will help with the fit. My buddy own a upholstery shop
and I've seen him steam seats and convert tops. don't know why but it does make a difference, but not sure how you could steam it you need a good steamer. Maybe a local upholstery shop could do it for you.

Well, I'm sure a local upholstry shop could do the whole thing..but that's what I'm trying to avoid. If I can't get them done to my satisfaction, I may do that at some point, even if it's next summer and I have to remove them. Not that much work involved with that.
Are you saying he steams the outside or from the inside as he's stretching the covers over the seats?

He steams them after they are together and can do them in or out of the car. So you wouldn't have to take them apart. But if you get them to where you are happy with them then I wouldn't worry about it.

I'm ok with the one I did but I have no objection to better!
The weather has cooled down a lot in the last week. I think hot weather would help. Steaming might be another way to soften the covers up. The foam got all the slack out but they still don't have the completely smooth look I want.

Hey Greg I've been watching along and waiting for the next installment- door panels and interior paint/dye?

A bit after the fact, but on my Lemans I replaced both the bottom spring assemblies and the foam with new. Good news is that the Legendary seat covers came out really tight with all the support- no wrinkles at all. And since there is no sag the seams don't get pulled on when sitting, so the covers should last forever. Bad news is that the seats have been hard on the butt- just like a brand new econo car. Three years (and 3,000 miles) later and the driver's seat is finally starting to "break in" and become comfortable.

Obviously all this was not done for the T/A seats and there are wrinkles as a result. And a bit concerned about that the seams on the seat bottoms may someday split. But the T/A seats are well broken in and mighty comfortable compared to those in the Lemans.

I think your covers look just fine. And expect that some of the wrinkles may work themselves out as the vinyl stretches over time.

Actually, I'm pleased with them. The passenger side was a breeze compared to the driver side. Less wear no doubt. Also, I found that a heat gun softened and smoothed out the new vinyl pretty nicely.
Anyway, I'm "building" the door panels this weekend and then on to dying the remaining old parts. The panels take more work than I expected but no biggie. I just didn't expect to have to transfer the upper metal from the old panels to the new. They'll require rivets or something like that and then have to pull and glue the vinyl over the top around the perimeter of the metal.
I may take a pic to clarify that for future reference for those considering using the "unfinished" door panels.

I ordered fully assembled door panels from Legendary but they were not assembled when I got them. Had to send them back to be assembled (I had already paid for it) and they turned them around quickly.

The fully assembled panels went on quickly and fit well. The only trim parts that I had to install were the long horizontal pieces and the badges since these do not come with the panels.

I did one of the quarter panels tonight. Not too bad of a job...but that's just attaching the board to the metal upper and gluing the covering.
I still have to attach the stainless strip and cut the holes for the armrests mounting points and the window crank. Legendary has already created holes and cut outs in the board for all but the window crank...no doubt to allow for power windows...and for that, you can see the perforated outline. I'll finish it tomorrow probably.

Here's a bit of movement...Forgive the mancave dust..

http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...t/IMG_0247.jpg

Greg,

I'm giving up on some decent used stuff and will be ordering the door panels soon. What I'm trying to figure out is how different are the PUI panels to the Legendary? I have read a ton about upholstery differences but not the door panels. Any reason why you went that way? What did you base you decision on? Thanks Joe.
BTW- looks good!

Well Joe, here is the deciding factor....Color match.
Whatever seat covers you use, I would use the same manufacturer for the panels. Even pieces from the same manufacturer will vary some from lot to lot. I ordered my door panel covers several weeks after the seat covers and I had to give the lot number so they'd be sure to match.