74 Formula 455 Project Begins
 

Well, now that I've had the Formula for a few weeks I've begun a list of things I want to do to make it a nice driver to take to cruise-ins, shows and just general enjoyment!

Here is my to-do list:

Paint:
My Pal Robert (MPR) owns a paint and body shop. He will be doing a general touch up, wet-sand and buff of entire car to bring back shine, and touch up bigger blemishes with color as needed. There are a few places this will be necessary: Both front fenders - the driver side has a place where some brake fluid caused the paint to bubble or it may be rust coming up under the paint, and the passenger side has the antenna which will be coming off and the hole patched. The front bumper filler panel is still black like it came in the box. That will be done in body color. Door handles will get the body colored decal inserts. Bottoms of both front fenders have small rust spots behind the wheel wells and he will repair those and repaint below the lower chrome trim piece at the rocker. He will also paint the rockers and bottoms of the rear quarters just to clean them up some. Question: What color RAM AIR call out would have come on Fire Coral Bronze? Has white now.

Exhaust:
Going back to stock with a RARE 2.25" ceramic manifolds, and then full OEM Gardner system all the way to the correct 74 chrome tips.

Underbody:
Tom Glorioso added frame connectors and welded them in. Should I leave them or have them removed? See pictures below.

Rear End:
I spoke with one of the previous owners, Tom Glorioso, who did most of the work on the car - engine rebuild, tranny and rear end updates, exhaust and suspension work. He shared with me that he had the 3.08 open rear diff converted to a 3.73 posi - no wonder she goes so quick and smokes the tires! But that is too much gear for the kind of driving I plan to do in this car, so I'm taking it back to the 3.08 gear and keeping the posi.

Tranny:
Speedometer stopped working, so I plan to check the gear at the transmission cable. If that's not the cause, then I'll go further. Tom Glorioso said there was a shift kit installed and a high-stall converter. I'll probably go back to a more stock version. Still thinking about this one.

Windshield:
It is definitely a replacement glass by the "Safety Float" in the stamping. It does not have the built-in antenna so I plan to replace it with correct style. The antenna on the fender is going away.

Radio:
I want to check to see if the only reason it isn't working is because there is no antenna connected. If that is not the issue, it will be pulled and sent to Ward's Classic Car Radio Repair in Huntsville, AL for repair and reconditioning.

Gauge Cluster:
I plan to change out the Clock with a Tach that has the smaller clock. This car came with the Clock but my original Formula had the Tachometer and that is the look and functionality I want. Will replace all the p-nut light bulbs while I have the cluster and dash out.

Honeycomb Wheels vs Rally II Wheels:
A former owner has the original Rallys but they are earmarked for one of his other cars, so I think I will keep these Honeys on the car - they just look great! Need to decide whether to refinish them at some point. I sort of like the patina they have acquired.

Stripes:
I have a new set of reproduction stripes on the way from Phoenix Graphics. Light Orange, Dark Orange and Black.

Steering Wheel:
I love the Formula Wheel, but think I may go back with the original three spoke wheel so it matches the column.

AC System:
Will be taking the car to Gainesville Radiator for a full AC system vacuum test and rebuild/replace whatever is causing the Freon to leak out. I can see green staining on the compressor pully. Looking like a compressor rebuild.

Interior:
MPR is going to pull the door panels and rear side panels, replace all the clips, clean and grease the window regulators, address window guide and bumper alignment, and then work on the door panels to get the seat belt rash taken care of. I will probably send the seat belts off to be restored. Will probably check with BentWheelBob to see how the group he is using for that does.

Here are some interesting photos of things I'm curious about and some questions I need some help with:

Car is at MPR's shop ready for some paint love!

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...psdteirzjn.jpg

Windshield Stamp - Can anyone decode this for me - not sure where the date code is?

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps9jobiuov.jpg

Follow The Mystery Cable and tell me what it was?

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...pshz3auea3.jpg

Down the hole it goes - where it comes out nobody knows?

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...psrmicvtjf.jpg

Or do they - looks like it comes out just above the carpet at the Transmission Tunnel on Passenger side.

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...psuepzitap.jpg

Could it have been a CB antenna? Looks like maybe an old CB was mounted on the side of the Console?

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps6ptvqpip.jpg

What's the best way to repair peeling Chrome on the Grilles?

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...psq3unfgeb.jpg

Formula Wheel?

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...psqa88knmz.jpg

Or Original (without the cheesy cover) The big white tach is gone now. Left some marks on the column from the clamp.

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...psudor0kpm.jpg

Going to Lose the Breather Decal - Were the Original's just Black?

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...psuk3kc366.jpg

Here's the place on the driver side fender that needs to be addressed

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...pskcy8gzlu.jpg

Here are the pictures of the frame connectors

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...psm0e6xbzj.jpg

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...psyupouacd.jpg

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps377vskrv.jpg



Thanks for looking and giving me some input!

BJ

Nice looking 'Bird! I don't know why I waited so long to get a Firebird, but I'm glad I finally did!

I'd go with the original wheel in yours; I think it's a nice looking wheel.

Too cool. You have a car you're in love with and a project to keep you busy. My recommendation is too think long and hard about a priority list to keep you focused. You are right to get the body and paint done first. That means dealing with windshield also. I would get the engine compartment next. When I bought the Y88 that was my first priority since that is the second thing most people want to see once the car catches their eye. You hate to have a car that requires apologies when you lift up the hood. I'd save the interior for last, and I like the formula wheel BTW.

Good luck. Can't wait to follow along and see how things go. Have fun.

Mystery cable looks like the antenna cable.
Date coding of newer windshields hasn't been looked at too closely as far as I know (bottom code is the pattern of the glass). 255 could be the code, like 25th week of '85 or something like that.
If your going like the first car, then the Formula wheel has to be shelved.
Going back to 3.08:1 will more than likely need the convertor swapped too.
Air cleaner looks original other than the decal, all black. You can search it for date stamping (a green/blue/teal ink). Of course a picture of the underside would help. Is the original "Keep your GM" decal still there?
Try to get the date code stamp reading of the original Rally II (HM) rims and jot them down. It's always fun to keep an eye out for duplicates.
Take a picture of the A/C compressor decal, in case something happens to it during rebuild.
Frame connectors are welded in and not hurting anything. I'd leave them alone.

Bob is on track with a priority list. I wish I had done that.
To me though, interior is to be tidy first (you can't keep the hood down on that).

Thanks guys. Bob, I've been back and forth on what to do first, and finally decided on the paint, and since we'll have the fenders off, I will work on the the engine bay. I really have enjoyed following your project on the black car, and it has been an inspiration. Not sure if I'll take this car that far, but I sure want it to drive, sound and feel like the car I had in college. I guess you caught my spin on your own My Pal Dave "MPD" with My Pal Robert "MPR"...I'll need to get a picture of MPR saluting the way MPD does!

Mike, thanks for the input. Yes, the breather does still have the "Keep your GM" decal on it and I meant to post a picture of that as well. I'll do that and also post a picture of the date code on the breather if I can find it. I'm pretty sure it is original. The date coding on the windshield isn't really that important if I'm planning to replace it, but was just curious.

Good point about getting the photo of the decal on the compressor and the date codes on the Rally II wheels. I'll give Jim a call to get those date codes. Wish he would sell me those wheels!

Oh yeah - I forgot to mention the Hood. Mine has the dreaded crown and MPR thinks there is some adjustment in the hinges that might help, but I've read so many posts about this and think we need to add some weight for a while. Any other ideas?

Another interesting thing is that the body side mouldings were not on the PHS, but they appear to be the original factory style metal strips, riveted in, with the rubber strip insert. I wonder if the dealer installed them? MPR and I were talking about how the vinyl stripes will look in relation to the mouldings. I was concerned that they may compete for the Eyes' attention with two horizontal lines in such close proximity. What do you guys think? Have you seen a body side moulding car with the stripes?

I'll try to get some more pictures posted tomorrow.

BJ

In for the ride - looking forward to the journey! :thumbup:

Those body side moldings will be too much on your car, especially with the rocker trim and stripes. I would delete them..

The speedo may not be working because the speedo gear housing is wrong for the 3.73 gear. There were at least two "housings" used, one for the 3.08 and lower numerical gears, and one for the higher number 3.42, etc gears. You may have the 3.08 housing with the wrong plastic gear in it so it is not meshing properly.

I am in the process of converting from 3.42s to 3.08s and had to buy the 3.08 housing to replace the 3.42 collar i had previously installed.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tci-880022

How do you delete them without painting the whole car? These are riveted/screwed through the sheet metal and you'll have 8 to 10 holes on each side that need filled and painted??? I don't disagree that this is the optimal solution, but don't grasp how to implement your directive without a whole repaint. My Y88 had the same dealer installed molding and I switched it to the factory correct color keyed molding which is adhesive based, but which covered the sheet metal holes.

BTW - MPD loved the MPR reference.


http://i1285.photobucket.com/albums/...psrvfkyu8i.jpg

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Bob:
Thanks for showing the differences n the body side moldings. The type you showed on your Y88 are identical to the ones on my W66. The reason we didn't want to remove them was the very same reason you mentioned. Think I'll leave mine on for now, but would love to find the adhesive ones like yours in Fire Coral Bronze.

By the way...MPR had a message for MPD today.

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...psmvgeizdc.jpg

BJ

Here are some photos from today's start. MPR did a couple of test spots on the car to see how the paint was going to respond to some buffing. It is definitely single-stage paint from the 80's so we are going to be limited to what we can do with some buffing, waxing and polishing. Initial results indicate that it should bring back a nice 80's quality shine which is precisely what I'm looking for. We'll leave most of the door dings and stuff that won't buff out as they each tell a small piece of this car's story. We'll have to add some color in a couple places, but MPR is confident he can get a very good match. So, the paint restoration process will begin on Monday.

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...pspbbwk8sg.jpg

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...psvuqtdolr.jpg

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps7xsbnrig.jpg

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps9zeuram1.jpg

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...psvais3bly.jpg

I also got good photos of the engine bay decals, and removed the pesky 455 decal from the breather. It left a second layer of adhesive, so it looks like we'll have to repaint the breather cover - but really don't want to do the whole body of the breather. Check out the pics and let me know what you think. I believe it is original, but I didn't find a date code like HFR indicated might be on the bottom. Check out the "Keep your GM..." decal. Original? On the breather, looks like I need to find a new elbow with the flat spot on it. Anyone have one they want to part with?

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...pstse9ulox.jpg

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...psnrcdynva.jpg

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps8zpare5h.jpg

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http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...pskrxw2ptt.jpg

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...psmot6i5wj.jpg

Also got some good shots of the AC compressor decal and the Emissions decal, as well as the door decal. You can see the overspray from the 80's paint job. We'll buff all that out. Love the way that original paint looks!

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps9jeys0gr.jpg

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...psfuqlfxi9.jpg

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps6j7yh09a.jpg

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...psi4gn8zgl.jpg

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...psyb6xqrva.jpg

What's up with the kick-down switch on the throttle linkage that isn't connected to anything? Doesn't the TH400 have an electronic kick-down? Mine sure seems to work like it is supposed to?

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...psjy2t9x0j.jpg

BJ

Well, since this car is getting a fair amount of paint / body work anyway, these could be deleted, and the sides repainted/blended. I always thought those moldings were extremely tacky, and ruin an otherwise nice looking car. The adhesive backed OEM style moldings with the colored center are a bit more bearable..

:2cents::argue:

That's crazy about the kick down switch! When I had to replace the heater core on my 19,000 mile survivor 73 SD Formula, I found the same thing: the kick down harness was not connected to the switch and the wires were tucked and wrapped up in the upper dash. I was the first one to ever get into the under dash area and it appeared to have been that way since 1973.

I notice that the plastic trim underneath your grille and over your bumper is black. Mine is too, but in most pictures of 1974s, it's body color. I always thought that the previous owner painted it black, but now I wonder if some came that way.

Mine's an early build (October '73); is yours?

They were body color but due to the kind of flexible plastic they were made of, they crumbled away to nothing over the years. For some reason a lot of people don't paint them before installing a new one. I don't know why? The one on my Gramma's car gradually disappeared over the years - even while my grandparents still had it in the early 1980s, my grandfather would use the old fashioned two-part epoxy and kept valiantly trying to keep the pieces in place. When I got the car in 2004, I found an NOS piece, (and yes, it is natural black in its unpainted form), had it painted and installed it.

Keep your GM decal is real and correct. I can't for sure say the same for your A/C compressor. Can you read all the numbers in the CODE NO. box? I think that MODEL NO. was earlier.

I bought a NOS when I first picked up my 74 T/A and stored it way. Many years later when I finally got to the painting stage I opened the box and it virtually fell apart in my hands :D

What's with the plugs in the door - was the car rustproofed sometime in it's past?

Yup, those things just crumbled away.

My Grandfather used that two-part epoxy on everything! Kind of like the dad in "My Big Fat Greek Wedding" who used Windex on everything. :-)

74 Formula
 

Hello BJ Its great to see the progress you are doing with the car it truly found its new home. And by the way I still have that cheesy steering wheel cover that I will gladly send you.
Pat

BJ - I gave Dave the message and he said back at you. Looks like the paint is cleaning up great. Nice shop/workspace. I have a couple extra elbows and will send one your way if you PM you shipping info. Conversely, their are a number for sale on eBay if you search "Firebird air cleaner elbow".

Thanks for the link Steve - I'll give that a try.

Did your kick-down work that way? Mines seems to, but it shouldn't...correct?

Yeah, like Steve said, they are supposed to be body color. It was on my original 74, so we'll paint this one. This car was December '73 build. Shipped on 12/21 I believe.

I will use some paper and a pencil to stencil those numbers Mike. I can't make the last couple out even when I zoom in on my original photo file.

Yep, I believe that's what they were for. You can see them on the rocker panel too.

Thanks Pat - having a lot of fun with it. You can keep the steering wheel cover! I think Tom put that on...he's from Wisconsin you know! I've been speaking with him and he is glad to hear the car finally made it to the South!

Thanks Bob - I'll shoot you a PM.

BJ

Got a question on the Trim Tag Paint Codes. Mine shows W for Fire Coral Bronze. Was there an associated number code that MPR can use to research the original paint mix?

BJ

74 Formula
 

BJ there is a paint code number on the bottom of the reproduction window sticker that came with the car if that helps.
Pat

74 Formula
 

As I recall the numbers were 66 and another number that came up was 2653

Correct. That is the PPG number..


http://images.tcpglobal.com/chips/1974-Pontiac-pg02.jpg

Great Info guys, thanks much!

BJ

Next Question: Were the original roof drip moldings made of plastic or steel? Any recommendations on best source?

Thanks,
BJ

They were plastic AFAIK..

NOS:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Camaro-Fireb...tX~7a~&vxp=mtr

Thanks - I'm seeing prices all over the board. NOS Plastic ones on eBay for $125, and Stainless Steel ones from Year One for $249.99.

BJ

I didn't think the plastic drip rail mouldings came along until later, like 1976 or 1977? I can't recall ever seeing an older second gen with the plastic drip rail mouldings. Even then, some of the later cars still had metal.

If given the choice, the metal ones would be used in a New York minute..

My 75 has the cheesy plastic ones. I would love to swap to the stainless set. They are much nicer, permanently attach to the car, and don't slide off the car when they lose their tension over time.

Look what showed up in the mailbox today!

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...psxzmxqz5o.jpg

BJ

I think I'll go with the stainless steel roof drip moldings to match all the other stainless trim on the car. IIRC mine had stainless steel.

Going to the paint store with MPR to start the paint match process tomorrow, so he is confident before beginning any repairs. Getting more excited every day!

Oh, yeah, my vinyl stripes arrived today from Phoenix Graphics. They look great and I can't wait to get them on the car. I have found several photos online showing 74 Formulas with both the vinyl stripes and the body side moldings. I think they look fine and plan to keep the BSM on the car.

While searching for images on Google - found this cool poster that a former owner of this car had made!

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...psrmjafafb.jpg

BJ

Hi BJ, Did you get the dealer shipping record with the car?

Paul,
Yes, I did; thanks for posting it. This is such a well-documented car.

BJ

BJ,
I still have those Wisconsin collector plates you see in the pic.
Also the Rally Wheels that came off the car had date codes in Oct. & Nov. of 73. I know you asked about it.

Jim, thanks for the date codes. I'd love to have those old plates if you don't mind parting with them. Would look cool to display with the car at a car show.

BJ

Got the hood scoop wire mesh inserts painted today.

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...pslc2ub9z6.jpg

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps7zpbxqvf.jpg

Also got a test panel for the second pass at matching the paint done. I think we have a good match!

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...pscsji2nco.jpg

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...pssvwpdi0t.jpg

The spot on the driver side front fender turns out to be rust! Looks like we'll be cutting that out and patching. That means blending color across the hood and top of the fender, then clearing. We have to patch the passenger front fender after removing the antenna, so we'll try to keep it the same on that side. We won't do any color on the sides of the car except down on the bottoms of the fenders, the rockers and the quarters.

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps1thhwtiv.jpg

What was the purpose of this plastic piece at the base corners of the windshield?

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...psvlxugc0q.jpg

It is missing on the driver side but you can see the screw that held it. Are these available from anyone?

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...psj8pkqn3j.jpg

BJ

They were designed to deflect water from the edge of the windshield's bottom seam. The originals were a flimsy, easily broken, piece of black plastic. They do make a repro but it is even poorer quality than the original piece.

NOS Left 3062232:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1974-1981-Fi...1Yv-Wu&vxp=mtr

right side used 3062231:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1970-1981-FI...BYKyf~&vxp=mtr

Pair used:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/USED-WINDSHI...RYLQUd&vxp=mtr

used right:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/USED-WINDSHI...JYxE1b&vxp=mtr

Thanks Canamman! I just ordered the NOS Left one and the used right one (last one you posted). Appreciate the links!

BJ

Wish I had seen this thread earlier BJ. Love your new project; I owned a 73 Grand Am the same color combo in 74. I wish I had caught you before you did any sanding or cutting of the paint. There is a way to bring back the older single stage paints WITHOUT any abrasive materials, compounds, polishes, buffing, etc. We're using it on 36k mile original paint 79 Camaro right now.

I don't know where I would chance taking off the body side moldings. You could very well end up painting 80% of the entire car this way. Good luck and eagerly following.

Thanks Jerry! Would love to hear your process for restoring the older single stage paints. We did that test spot on the top of the driver side fender because we knew we had to do a rust repair there. We test polished a couple places with 3M #1 and #2 compound, followed by some glazing with wax and got some good results. What process are you using on that 79 Camaro?

BJ

Some more progress pictures.

MPR got the hood removed and the inner fenders out, so now we have some more access to the engine compartment for detailing.

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps79noooxv.jpg

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps21fek9im.jpg

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The inner fenders look good,

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...psudopc6rh.jpg

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...pspjtysdpq.jpg

What was this - maybe some undercoating overspray?

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...psqtgrlkb3.jpg

Here are some photos of various places in the engine compartment. We have some oxidation and surface rust - looks like some salt exposure from the Utah and Wisconsin roads over its lifetime, but overall, the subframe and core support look to be in good condition. I plan to use a Steam Jenny pressure washer to clean the underside and engine compartment, then use sponge brushes to touch up paint as and where needed. We'll replace some hoses and vacuum tubes, and do some general cleaning while we have good access.

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...psltz6bcuv.jpg

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...psh9mxbnyn.jpg

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Found the wire that used to run the big Tach on the steering column seen in some of the older photos of the car.

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...psmhqwhhte.jpg

What is this - a filter in the vacuum line? Why does it go to such a small diameter? Looks like it disappears into the firewall. Any idea what this goes to?

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...psyfqpgxbq.jpg

Got a much better photo of the Cowl Tag. Notice the light stamping of the paint codes. You can barely see what looks like two "66" stampings for upper and lower color. Pretty sure that 66 was the correct color stamp for Fire Coral Bronze according to the paint chart posted earlier. Was it common for the Norwood plant cars to have this faint stamping or is mine an exception?

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...psp0jvuenv.jpg

We've got some parts showing up now! Vinyl Stripes from Phoenix Graphics, Breather Elbow from Bob (Thanks again Bob!), new battery tray, new Stainless Drip Rail Molding, New front Bird emblem, cold beer.

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...psil41qcyl.jpg

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Some hardware and badging waiting clean-up

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That pesky antenna is gone now! New windshield with built in antenna on the way!

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...psloyknsrx.jpg

BJ

I'll need some help with what color and finish on engine compartment paints for things like the inner fenders, master cylinder, core support, brackets, air breather, engine block, etc. Anyone have a good list?.

Also, we found the wiring connector for the transmission kick-down switch all nice and bundled up behind the dash. We've tested the switch and after several manual cycles, we were able to see it operating properly on a volt/ohm meter. We hooked up the wiring, and did a driving test (before we removed all the parts in the post above!) and did not feel it kicking down. So - what's next in the troubleshooting?

Finally - how do you remove the dash on this generation F-body? I've had the dash out of my old GTOs a few times, but never done so on a Firebird, so looking for some help there so I can get the radio out for testing/reconditioning, and so I can replace some bulbs in in the instruments and gauge cluster.

Thanks,
BJ

I see you took the Formula 455 badges off the Fenders . I have a set of GM NOS ones for a 72 -74 Formula if you are interested. I'm not going to be restoreing my car at anytime. Also whatta give me for the License Plate's. I wish I had some 74 Indiana plates to sell,but dont. I do have a set of NOS 74 Minnesota plates for mine as thats where it was from.Let me know. I may have Rally Wheels.The problem is the shipping cost.Thats why I never replied to you before.

Below the steering column is black cover panel that must be removed first - it is retained by two plastic locking screws accessed from directly below the panel. Once that's removed there are two long bolt headed screws holding the dash cover panel on - one on each side of the steering column. Then remove the small phillips head screws located in the top of the dash cover panel (above the gauges) - four of them I think. Lastly, remove the bezel around the cigarette lighter. At that point you should be able to remove the dash cover panel completely. From there you'll have easy access to all of the gauges.

Mission creep is setting in...you're just one or two rationalizations away from pulling the engine and stripping the car to the subframe. I think you should just go ahead and do it. Clean up the cowl and firewall, get the core support looking good, paint the subframe and suspension components....I did the Gold Car that way without pulling the front clip and it turned out great. If you ask MPR to use a sponge brush things might get ugly. BTW - your organization system looks great. Good idea.

On the underhood finishes, tell your powdercoating guy to do the inner fenders at 50% gloss, brackets and pulley's at 60% gloss, and air cleaner at 90 % gloss. You better get an AMK catalog so you can order a bunch of new tinnerman's and bolts.

http://i1285.photobucket.com/albums/...psiiiveckn.jpg

http://i1285.photobucket.com/albums/...pshcj9lv7h.jpg

http://i1285.photobucket.com/albums/...pskkoqwxhj.jpg

That is the vacuum source for the HVAC system. The check valve is still available:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/497853-GM-NO...BYTYBm&vxp=mtr

http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/cyAAAO...Bm/s-l1600.jpg