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ebay OBX headers $168.88 OBO with free shipping
Just seen these. Makes me feel like a sucker when I paid $240 for mine.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/STAINLESS-ST...lYw06W&vxp=mtr I just submitted an offer for $150 and it was declined... |
watch out i think these are round ports headers too, i think i heard they have fitment issues
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Says they fit '64 through '79....I don't think that's right.
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The box mine came in said they fit 64-72. I have them on my 75 Lemans, which can use 2nd gen F body headers. Yes they are obviously round port, and I had to slightly open up a couple holes and ding one tube, but do a search and you will see there's no perfect set of on the shelf, ready to ship, thick flanged, stainless headers available at anywhere near this price point.
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Looks good for the price no doubt but I always thought there was a cutoff between '67 and '68 A bodies as far as headers or RA manifolds were concerned. Maybe with headers everybody just dings them where necessary.?
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I think they are, for the most part, about the same. I've read about brand X fitting great on this, then someone says they don't fit worth a darn on their same year car. I took one of my buddies Doug's headers for his 66 GTO and compared it to my 2nd gen Hedman Huslers and there wasn't much difference at all besides the #7 tube went down for clutch linkage.
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I bought a set of them for my 70, they look exactly like the Dougs. I bought a set of Dougs and they didn't fit, called them and they said I would have to "ding" the tube to fit. I bought the ceramic ones for $750 and they tell me to dent the tube, BS! I bought the OBX header and dented the tube. I only had to open up a bolt hole or two to get the bolts to line up. I bought the round port ones, and I would buy them again for a car needing headers, if not RA manifolds are my choice.
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Too bad they only make them for A-bodies.
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Had to ding some tubes on mine and enlarge the end holes on the flanges but other than that they fit great.
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Think the guy just wants offers and only will take price shown. Offered the guy 165 and was declined, so bought a set at the advertised price. I asked another vendor selling the same headers if he would sell at 165 and he said couldn't do it.
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Will these fit D port iron heads?
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No, round port. They are basically Dougs round port knock offs.
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How's the welds? No leaks?
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welds look great, no leaks on mine.
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could anyone that installed them, share pics and details of the mods they made? where they dinged them, etc?
just kicking it around to maybe get a set...wanna see what others have done..thanks in advanced |
on my 75 lemans I had to grind a little off the frame and motor mount on the drivers side, also dented the tube slightly, and opened 1 mounting hole a 32nd and elongated another a little.
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Are they really stainless T-304 ?
At that price, it so cheap, that could be the starting point for a build if you hadn't bought heads. |
they're stainless
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Sure wish they were 2" I.D. and 3 1/2" collectors.
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collectors are 3.5" but ID of tubes are 1 7/8".
or at least mine are. |
just got my set today...wow..nice stuff......too bad they dont have D port...
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Well that's going to make me order a set
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Does anyone know if these will fit my 71 GTO with P/S, P/B, A/C, TH 400 and 455?
The Hooker headers that are on now hit at two places even after being dinged to fit A/C case and drivers frame. |
Mine came today look real nice, these are a ridiculous value for the price
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Hmmmmm join a fitness club or do a header swap?...
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will these fit KRE heads?
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Wonder if you could not get a band saw and lop off the O port flange and adapt on a D port flange. Even with that expense probably the cheapest SS D port headers!
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These fit round port heads only. KRE are D port correct? |
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Funny to learn that OBX makes headers for old Pontiacs. I have an OBX cat-back exhaust system on my BMW track car, and have been very pleased with it over the years. Good fit, great sound, and the stainless steel finish has held up well, changing color to a goldish hue due to heat (as expected with stainless).
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My OBX ones didn't fit, not even close. Driver's side went right on, but it had a 90 bend on the #5 tube at the flange.
Passenger side, the #6 tube didn't clear the frame, would have had to beat the crap out of it, and the collector exit was pointed towards the center of the car. By a lot. And I just did this a couple months ago. These have been around for a while. I say it's hit or miss on these, and if you do try them, PLEASE post results with pics. More people need specific info on these to prevent others from having issues (or not). . |
I think there was a thread here where a guy fit them on an early GTO stick car and had to modify either header or Z bar to fit.
"And I just did this a couple months ago." What body style? Mine look pretty straight in line with the flange. Part of why I got them was as a base to start with and modify a few tubes if needed for a set of SS. My RAIV 400 i wanted some small tube 1 3/4" Hedman had a set for second gen and GTOs. Both rear tubes hit the firewall by a lot, the collectors pointed to the center and the flange was over 1/2" off the head from one end to the other. Sent then to Hedman-"collector is fine -you must have moved the motor back fits our jig."I had a second set of Hedmans 1 3/4-1 7/8 step based on their 1 7/8 O port they did have to redo the collectors-no way there was room even for a tranny! SO even the US guys screw up. |
A-body, 71 to be exact, round port of course. The one pipe at the flange was like a 'V', cut and welded together like 90 or more degrees. Passenger side contacted the frame right above the motor mount, I would have had to dent that thing like in half, easy. The collector end was so far tilted towards the center it was hitting the trans pan, no way was it going to work. Even if I heated it up and bent it I doubt it would have been enough, it was like 3" off center, and the exhaust would have had to been all screwed too just to bolt it to the collector.
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I got a set to use on my test stand. I could not get all the bolts started on either side till I oversized a few of the holes. If this would have been in the car it would have been a pita. If your dropping a set in a car I would pre fit them first.
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I got a set to use on my test stand. I could not get all the bolts started on either side till I oversized a few of the holes.
Yes the outer tubes especially on E heads, but then Ron's early Tri Ys were tight on E heads but OK on iron round ports. Those really bad Hedmans I needed the small tube size so I cut off 2 tubes, used paper towel rolls to mock up bends , cut off collectors and welded it all back together. The 400 liked them compare to the 2" Hookers and you could get to all the bolts easily with my tubes!. I'll dig them out and take some pictures. |
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Modified Hedman's ,welds are not pretty and had to massage driver's collector for reverse/park linkage.
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I bought the OBX headers and have to say while I am nowhere near the point of using them they look good and mine don’t seem to point off center just mocked up to my d port heads on my spare 455. If they don’t fit it won’t be the first 150 bucks I’ve wasted on this project and I’m sure it won’t be the last. I am not a gambling man so if I’m gonna have to deny or grind something to get it to fit it’s gonba be the obx headers and not the 700 dollar Dougs
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64speed how did you get a set for d ports I have only seen round ports?
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It looks like the obx versions are selling for around $300 and the knock off of the knock off is selling for $150. I bought a set of “Maximizers” for around $150 and they look different from the obx pictures. The obx’s have smoother looking bends coming off the head flange than the ones I bought.
I had the same end hole alignment issues and had to dent the passenger side pipe where it goes over the front crossmember. I also had to make a slight ding to clear the drivers side rear control arm bracket. The collector flanges are parallel though. The Hedman Hustlers they replaced had one collector pointing up and inward. The other pointing straight back but downward. Made hooking up an x-pipe more work than it should have been. |
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I bought the OBX Stainless round port headers for A body a few years ago....They needed a little 'adjustment" as the passenger side touched the tranny pan (4l80e)....I cant comment on stock chassis fitment..but they are a quality header...thick flanges...nice welds...I paid $189 on E-Bay....Sorry the pics aren't that great....
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I meant round port. I just mocked them up to the d port head on the 455.
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