Stainless OBX headers
 

I see them in round port on eBay for about 400 bucks give or take. Anyone ever run them? I know they will get hotter than ceramic headers but they won’t rust like painted ones. Did they clear your mechanical clutch linkage? Car is a 64 Tempest

they were $168 and change with free shipping a while back. I posted a link in the for sale forum.

Boy I wish I’d seen that I would have snatched them up. As much as I’d like to have ceramic ones I can’t break the engine in with ceramic headers and I can’t afford to buy two sets of round ports

How much does running these stainless headers with no paint or coating increase under hood temps?

Still on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/STAINLESS-ST...lYw06W&vxp=mtr\

Are you going to run a roller cam? ... no issue w. ceramics on break in. If flat tappet, you just need a big fan in front of the radiator. I broke in my flat tappet w. ceramic headers and had no heat issues.

Also, someone was selling early large chamber Edelbrock heads NIB w. ARP head bolts in the classifieds for $2k. Maybe negotiable?

The passengers side runs real close to the oil filter, brake line, and along the engine block. I wrapped mine to help keep heat away from those areas.

I've broken in a few engines with ceramic coated headers without issues. I always set them up with a big fan in front to move a lot of air. Mainly did that to make sure engine temps stay in check, but it may have inadvertently helped the headers coatings...??

OBX has a pretty good reputation among the LS crowd for their cheap price and good fitment. I've worked on a couple of 4th gens with OBX headers and looked like decent quality for the price. On older cars, couldn't say.

At 168 I had to pull the trigger. I will use header wrap if it passes the brake line too close. I am more worried about mechanical clutch linkage clearance but I guess that’s a concern with any brand.

Thanks neighborscomplaint you are always on it. I have broken in headers with ceramic coating before too but all the brands say it will void the warranty not that I know how they’d know but I’d hate to buy 750 buck pair of Doug’s just to end up with some crispy coating

Good deal! I had just looked at them and those Edelbrock heads on the forum trying to decide whether to jump in and decided to leave my car alone for awhile.

I got the headers today and I dont know if they are chinese import or what but if they fit half as good as they look it will be the best 168 bucks I have spent on the car.

The OBX headers don't fit, the passenger side won't clear the frame saddle, the collector is shifted to the center of the car by like 3", and down about 1.5". In my case, with a 4L80E, the collector contacted the trans pan. The flanges need a number of the holes opened up to even bolt to the head.

I have pics of where they are screwed up, I just a couple weeks ago went through this on a 68-72 A-body.

I couldn't find specific info, so I too took a chance. Fail. I did sell to a racer, was clear on the fitment, he didn't care and will make them fit, at least I got a little back out of them. Shoot, the scrap metal is worth more than what I got for them.

I posted this info in the 70-72 section, was hoping the moderator would move it to the Exhaust section.

If you're going to try to use them, start with the passenger side. That way you won't waste time with install/removal of both.

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I figured heck a good cheap starting point for some headers even if you cut off a couple of tubes and rewelded.

What car did you try to run them on? I am putting them on a 64 Tempest. I put the flanges up to my head and the bolt holes line up. The only thing I am worried about is the engine is nowhere near being done and these things look huge. That’s what I’m worried about not fitting. Since they are uncoated stainless I figure I can always heat them up with a torch and bend them as needed

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Now you got me worried but when the time comes if they don’t work at least it’s not my most expensive wasted purchase to date

Well, the one tube on the driver's side, like 2-3" from the flange, had a 90 degree weld in it that was like a 'V', no gradual bend, nothing, just a sharp, 90, squared off bend. Not optimum.

The passenger side was so on top of the frame that if you were to dent it, it would be half the diameter of the tube to get it to clear. I've heard some raising the engine, but that's just ridiculous in my opinion, not to mention other issues it may cause.

Since the collector on the passenger side is over to the centerline of the chassis, you would have to shorten at least 3 tubes to straighten it out. With all the welding, they would look Frankenstein by the time you were done.

I've heard a few others having success, but, it's so hit or miss, you may have to return them 3 - 4 times before you get a set you can live with. Not something I want to deal with, and pretty sure the buyer would be on the hook for return shipping. Once you open the holes up so you can bolt them up, doubt they would accept them in return.

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'71 A-body to be specific. Original 350 AC auto floor shift car.

Yeah, they LOOK at first glance like they will bolt up, but try actually screwing in the bolts, and you will see at least one or two holes need to be opened up. But that's not the real issues, the real issues are the collector exit, and the one tube on the passenger side that you would have to flatten the crap out of to clear the subframe/cradle.

On the collector exit, it's so far pointed towards the centerline, no way you could get an exhaust to bot up, not without something custom and looking like the Snake River Canyon.

I think I paid like $180 shipped, so yeah, not the worst waste I've ever dealt with either, and I felt it was worth a shot. I purchased these like 1.5-2 years ago, so you might get lucky. But if you look at the seller's negative feedback, and all the headers for other makes/models that other buyers have had, my gut feeling is the problem still exists.



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mine don't bend inwards at the collector flanges.

What about my plan of heating them up and massaging them? Think that would work? I am not a gambling man but at 168 bucks it’s worth a try over 800 Doug’s. I know you get what you pay for but even a blind squirrel gets a nut sometimes

You got lucky then IMO, good for you. Do you have more specifics regarding your experience? When did you buy them, and what's the application? You have pics?

Here's a pic of the collector on the passenger side, though it's hard to tell by the pic how far off it is. It should be centered in the cross member opening, like the other side is, and it's not even all the way lined up on the head. The trans pan prevents it from lining up on the head, but if it didn't, it would be even more towards the centerline of the chassis.

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You can try it, you don't have much to lose. You won't be able to send them back, but since you will most likely go over the 90 days return policy, it kind of doesn't matter.

Post your experience so others have a reference.

I'm not blindly knocking these things guys, and am only posting my personal experience. If you take a shot at them, please, post your experience so others can benefit without having to make a purchase without input.

Like I said too, look at the feedback of the sellers, you will see many have issues with them. And not just on Pontiacs.

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So assuming these OBX headers work out how long does the stainless stay looking good before it gets raggedy looking?

I have a set on my 67 GTO..has the same issue with the right side header hitting the tranny pan (4L80e)......I put a "porta-power" between the header and the left side frame rail...and slowly and lovingly pumped.......left it overnight......problem solved.. They fit better than the Doug's that I originally tried to use....

What’s a porta power

Ok I looked up porta power and got my answer. Did you say you mounted it to the drivers side frame rail and pushed from there? How did you do it

Yeah, not sure that's a good example, since you're using an aftermarket frame. But glad it worked out for you.

With an OE frame, since it's channeled, not sure the frame wouldn't move too.

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HWYSTR455......True, I'm not sure either....nor was I sure the header bolts wouldn't pull out of the heads. Perhaps rigging something to PULL instead of push might work....I don't know what 64speed has access to...maybe a big truck......a building column (garage footing), a "mighty oak tree"....point being, they are 'tweakable".....:)

That's how I tweak headers and exhaust systems here. On pipes I usually rig up a ratchet strap while on the lift, sometimes with a combination of a pole jack, move to the desired position and then gently heat the pipe with a torch to relax the tension.

The only draw back to this is if you have a coating. Stainless will discolor, etc....

I haven't had the best experience with Dougs when I put a set on our 69 Z/28. You would think the most common car in the world with the most common engine in the world, they should have the header design down pat. Unfortunately they do not clear the back drive linkage at all. I had to completely tweak the #7 header tube. What kills me is that there is plenty of room down there for Dougs to redesign that pipe and clear the back drive rod no problem. For $700 I expected better. I likely won't buy another set of Dougs. I'd rather take my chances on a cheaper set and just tweak from there. I mean I'm spending $700 on headers and tweaking those anyway :noidea:

Your method should work. Basically the same, just be real careful with the heat....gotta get them almost glowing to make that work....and YES the polished stainless "blues"..then turns a smooth dark brown.....but no flaky rust! Yes, I was dissapointed with the Doug's also....

In my case, I have e-heads, and actually, the thought of pulling (with a cable/etc) them never crossed my mind. I did consider trying to tweak them, but I had them on & off so many times already, I was frustrated, and just gave up.

I did a Doug's review too I think, they required some tweaking, but the least amount of tweaking than any header I've tried to date. I still agree though, for that money, they should just plain fit right. (Not to mention that's what they tout in their' advertising).

I did find that the Doug's larger tube O-port A-body headers fit better than the smaller version, which I found somewhat odd (though understandable). But those can't be used on AC cars. (tube contacts evap box)



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I have a lift in my shop. It just bugs me that I might have thrown away 170 bucks. Oh well I can use them on the dyno during break in and then switch to something better when it comes time to drive it. I have actually wondered about how much grinding is required to get the ram air manifolds to fit the 64 chassis and truly how much power I would leave on the table.

In the past there has been some pretty good dyno comparisons between the manifolds. I know Dennis and Dan has done quite a bit, and Paul has had some recent dyno time with them.

Depends on the engine in question but from what I've seen and done the RA manifolds are pretty darn good for engines with ~500hp or less. So if you're building a mild street engine in that power range I probably wouldn't sweat the power difference.

2X FJ,my recent 455 on Joe Shermans dyno he figured we lost about 15 HP over my dyno headers with the long branch.NEVER feel it on the seat of the pants dyno IMO.Tom